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Bill Bunting

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Bill Bunting last won the day on January 8

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    Wasaga Beach, Ontario Canada

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  1. Thanks Gents. You may be right about the outer portion being yellow and made black by the photo process. It crossed my mind too. All the pics I can find of 111 Sqn with that outer portion in yellow seem to be taken in Canada. The photos where the ring appears black were taken in Alaska. Unfortunately in the Alaska photos I can't identify any other yellow so a bit inconclusive. Obviously they wanted to reduce the visibility of the wing roundels so perhaps they did paint over the fuselage yellow. Regardless it makes for good discussion. Cheers.
  2. Here is. my 1-48 P40E Kittyhawk. This is the Italeri kit out of the box and kit decals. It is a rebox of the AMT kit and is quite nice given its vintage. The engraved details are finely done, level of detail is acceptable and fit is pretty good except for the engine cowl panels. The moulds are quite old and as a result there is flash on almost all parts that requires clean up. Apparently these Kittyhawks were painted by Curtiss to RAF described colours but using American standard paints. The Sky was from Gunze Aqueous, The Green is Tamiya RAF Dark Green and the tan is Aeromaster enamel mid-brown. I'm not sure it's 100% correct but it suits me. What is most interesting to me is the 111 Squadron RCAF roundels and codes used while stationed in Alaska. The wing roundels have the blue extended inwards. The fuselage had the outer yellow portion painted black. Then the letter codes on this example were underlined. Additionally the codes and the serial numbers overlap the fuselage band. The Italeri decals worked very well, however, I think the letter codes are slightly too large. They were very thin and easy to apply as long as you used lots of water to place them. They settled down with Daco strong solution. The only issue was placing the fuselage band which comes in two parts and this is not shown in the instructions. The solution is to leave a small gap on the right lower side for the base of the letter "L" and the small piece of band fits on the bottom. It is important to do the band and the letter codes and the roundels all at the same time- as I said use lots of water and don't let them set until they are all in alignment. Well here she is....
  3. Very nice. That's the next one on my bench, after my P40. I love the RCAF "bat". There's a 2 seat Vampire near here painted in those colours flying on a regular basis. BB
  4. Very nice! We don't see many of these built. I have one on the shelf, hope it turns out as nice as yours! BB
  5. Nice one there Paul! These are certainly colouful Mustangs. I have to find the 1/32 or 1/48 LEM set 48.81 or 32.18. That sheet has BA-S on it. There is a privately owned P51 near here, a friend of a friend finished in those markings. I want to build a replica for him. Will need to keep an eye on the for sale sites. Cheers for now!
  6. Thanks for the kind words. Maybe later for a silver/blue one. Next up is a bathroom renovation that will seriously interrupt model making. I did 3 1/2 kits in January, I was on a roll! After the reno it will be a 442 Sqn Vampire or a 111 Sqn (RCAF) P40E. Or maybe even a F101 Voodoo 409 Sqn. Plus I just ordered an Eduard Mustang IV and a Spitfire IX that I will build for my friend Dave who flies each at Vintage Wings Canada near Ottawa. They are both finished as 442 Sqn. Y2-C and Y2-K. Cheers!
  7. Nice clean build and finish. I really like the chipped paint on the door. Eduard should have made the bar a separate piece, not your fault of course. Thanks for sharing. BB
  8. 1/72 (new) Airfix. Out of the box and kit decals. This one took just over a week due to the extra work on the transparent parts. IMO this is a nice kit except for the over heavy panel lines on the wings. The fit was good except for the side windows and the upper nose/canopy. To fit the side windows, I had to sand a bevel on all four sides of each window c heck the fit and sand again as necessary. this n you needs to be done before fuselage assembly to ensure no dust sticks to the windows and just in case you. push it through the opening. They were then masked with liquid mask for painting. The main canopy part was a bit wider than the fuselage so using a bit of heat I was able to squeeze the sides together to the correct width. Now this meant that the canopy was too 'tall' so I had to sand a bit of material from the bottom of the part to compensate. In the end I needed a little filler at the top fuselage to blend it in. NOTE: use hot water to soften parts - not direct flame, heat or a hairdryer. Water applies heat evenly and direct heat applies heat to the closest section which can result in parts curling up and melting. ( he said from experience). Paints are Tamiya acrylics. XF23 Blue, XF27 Black Green and XF61 Dark Green. (RLM 65, 70,71). I think the XF61 is a little dark resulting in very little contrast with the black-green. I am not unhappy with it and I do observe that in most WW2 photos it nearly impossible to see the difference in tones. I have used XF58 on other models and it gives more contrast. The kit decals were good and responded best to the triple whack of Microset/sol and Daco Strong/red. I ended up smearing the codes on the right side so no pics for you! I still think Microset/sol and a hairdryer work best. Clear coat is Tamiya clear flat and Future mix. Cheers!
  9. Finished this one 2 weeks ago. It was 5 days in the making and is basically out of the box with micro-tube gun barrels and I had to add "vents' ( thin plastic rod sanded into triangles) to the lower nose panels.. It is the Italeri kit which is Hasegawa sprues and Italeri decals. It went together very well but ahhh those decals. They are really well printed, sharp with good colour and register. The option I chose, RCAF 442 Sqn., however, has overly large codes. I think the decal designer started with the standard 18" scale letters then added the yellow border making them a scale 24" - far too big. The other codes on the sheet look OK. The box art and decal instructions do not show the codes as oversized. Finally a glance at Eduard's instructions for the same subject confirm it. Unfortunately this was not discovered until after the model was fully painted and I had no choice but to go with them. Now another "issue" appeared as the decals were rather "stiff" and did not want to settle into the details. Despite using Microset/sol, daco and Mr. Mark Softer, they just didn't want to soften as much as I wished. In the end, Micro set and sol followed up with a hairdryer on "hot" got them to behave. Paints are Tamiya acrylics with the yellow a mix of flat yellow with a few drops of orange. Incidentily Y2-B took part in the last official Allied air sortie of WW2. On 9 May 1945, the day after the armistice, she flew cover over the Channel Isles just in case the surrender of the island did not go smoothly. The vents were made by sanding some plastic rod into a triangular profile and then adding right over the existing panel. This was later filled and sanded to blend in a bit better.
  10. Very nice again. The Gnat is so tiny even next to the Jet Provost.
  11. Another beauty Tony! The scale has not posed any problems for you. Plus it must be easier on your TARDIS cabinets! Cheers
  12. I'm such an IDIOT! I have an Avenger/Tarpon on the shelf. They did serve in the RCN. No Skyraiders. Now to hang my head in shame.. .
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