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pheonix

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About pheonix

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    Maidstone Kent
  1. The Spad is coming on fine - your modelling shed is too by the look of it! As one who models on a shoestring I eny some of you luckier people! P
  2. I have finished making the wheels. For those who have not seen my method before here is a short explanation of how I make them. I start by marking out a circle the diameter of which is the wheel minus the tyre on a piece of card of suitable thickness: because these are large wheels I laminated two pieces of 40 thou card. I cut out a square of card with the circle on it and trim and file the disc using the groove as a guide for when to stop. I file the edge of one face of the disc to represent the wheel cover, the other side is left flat. Then I take a piece of rod, in this case 80 thou, to match the size of the tyre and wind this round a paintbrush handle or piece of dowel. The diameter of the handle or dowel needs to be slightly smaller than the wheel disc so that the tyre will cling on to the disc. Hold the rod tightly on the handle before plunging the rod and handle into boiling water for a few seconds. Withdraw the rod from the water and either plunge it into cold water or simply wait for it to cool, still holding it tightly while doing so. Slide the rod from the handle and you will have a plastic coil from which you can measure and cut lengths which can then be placed around the edge of the disc. You will need to bend the rod gently to make the two ends join properly before wrapping around the disc. Secure the rod tyre with liquid glue and if necessary apply a little filler to any small gaps. I moulded the chin piece below the nose using the standard plunge moulding technique. This was a small piece so I added a handle to the male mould. When the piece had been cut and trimmed I was able to cut the small vent holes using a very small drill and tip of a new scalpel blade and then cemented it to the underside of the nose. At the same time I shaped a mould for the cover above the engines and cut this out ready to fit later. Thanks for looking. P
  3. Another old fogey has been taken down memory lane. The transfers were almost impossible to get to stick on before the advent of softners etc, but somehow they did. In its time this was a very good kit which stood up well to contemporary offerings. As did the He 177 come to that. P
  4. Not seen this kit before (but have seen the markings). You have done a superb job on this - and extremely well weathered too. P
  5. No warts there. That is a really well turned out model with just a few extras in the cockpit! I am reminded of the original Airfix offering of the same model which I remember building many years ago...... no comparison!!
  6. I am posting this again as I have been having problems with photographs from photobucket. Hopefully this time everything will work! Bear Paw has posted a lovely model of the Airfix Albatros so this is another antique, (well nearly), Airfix Albatros D Va. I built it as part of a WW1 GB on another site - the build log can be found at http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/viewtopic.php?f=508&t=42907. I know that this kit is terribly inaccurate - the nose is too short and shallow, the cockpit is bare, the engine is a joke (or in my case was missing from the kit altogether), … I could go on. HOWEVER, a reasonable model can be made from this with a little effort and even less cost if one wants to. For me this was also a trip down memory lane as I had originally built one of these over 50 years ago (giving my age away there), when I desperately wanted to make a model that was not just OOB but lacked the skills to do so. I had found an article in a comic which was about a zebra-striped Albatros D Va so I painted mine in these markings (minus the wing stars which were not mentioned), in gloss(!) colours. To this day I am not sure who the pilot in the article was but I wanted to repeat the exercise for purely nostalgic reasons. This model represents a machine as flown by Ltn. Rudolf Windisch of Jasta 32 in the summer of 1917. Windisch started flying bombers and reconnaissance sorties on the Eastern Front in 1916, but transferred to fighters in early 1917 and was posted to Jasta 32 where he adopted the scheme illustrated in the rise of flight. He was credited with 8 victories with Jasta 32 and transferred to become commander of Jasta 66 in February 1918, where he was credited with another 14 victories before he was forced down and disappeared on 27 May 1918. His fate is not known. According to the rise of flight website two versions of his personal scheme are recorded in photos, one with wider borders to the national crosses and wider lines for the stars. I know that there were at least four different pilots who flew Albatros aircraft with zebra stripes, this is just one of them. Apart from having to add an engine and exhaust which I built from scratch, I put some detail into the cockpit. thinned the trailing edges, replaced the elevator, guns from Aeroclub, new prop and spinner, and put in some other details such as engine covers from card. The markings were partly from the kit except for the upper wing crosses, one of which disintegrated because it was so old, (I bought the kit in the late 1970's): very fortunately Stevehed gave me some spares from his box. The stars on the top wing were made from Letraline dry transfers touched up with Humbrol enamel. The model was painted with Humbrol enamels and a hairy stick.
  7. Bear Paw has posted a lovely model of the Airfix Albatros so this is another antique, (well nearly), Airfix Albatros D Va. I built it as part of a WW1 GB on another site - the build log can be found at http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/viewtopic.php?f=508&t=42907. I know that this kit is terribly inaccurate - the nose is too short and shallow, the cockpit is bare, the engine is a joke (or in my case was missing from the kit altogether), … I could go on. HOWEVER, a reasonable model can be made from this with a little effort and even less cost if one wants to. For me this was also a trip down memory lane as I had originally built one of these over 50 years ago (giving my age away there), when I desperately wanted to make a model that was not just OOB but lacked the skills to do so. I had found an article in a comic which was about a zebra-striped Albatros D Va so I painted mine in these markings (minus the wing stars which were not mentioned), in gloss(!) colours. To this day I am not sure who the pilot in the article was but I wanted to repeat the exercise for purely nostalgic reasons. This model represents a machine as flown by Ltn. Rudolf Windisch of Jasta 32 in the summer of 1917. Windisch started flying bombers and reconnaissance sorties on the Eastern Front in 1916, but transferred to fighters in early 1917 and was posted to Jasta 32 where he adopted the scheme illustrated in the rise of flight. He was credited with 8 victories with Jasta 32 and transferred to become commander of Jasta 66 in February 1918, where he was credited with another 14 victories before he was forced down and disappeared on 27 May 1918. His fate is not known. According to the rise of flight website two versions of his personal scheme are recorded in photos, one with wider borders to the national crosses and wider lines for the stars. I know that there were at least four different pilots who flew Albatros aircraft with zebra stripes, this is just one of them. Apart from having to add an engine and exhaust which I built from scratch, I put some detail into the cockpit. thinned the trailing edges, replaced the elevator, guns from Aeroclub, new prop and spinner, and put in some other details such as engine covers from card. The markings were partly from the kit except for the upper wing crosses, one of which disintegrated because it was so old, (I bought the kit in the late 1970's): very fortunately Stevehed gave me some spares from his box. The stars on the top wing were made from Letraline dry transfers touched up with Humbrol enamel. The model was painted with Humbrol enamels and a hairy stick. http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p555/stevef100/Airfix%20Albatros/DSCF1770_zps83f7d216.jpg][/MG] http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p555/stevef100/Airfix%20Albatros/DSCF1778_zps6d2a2140.jpg http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p555/stevef100/Airfix%20Albatros/DSCF1798_zpsb5389f53.jpg http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p555/stevef100/Airfix%20Albatros/DSCF1788_zps2d74bdde.jpg http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p555/stevef100/Airfix%20Albatros/DSCF1806_zpsf6d23917.jpg
  8. That is a lovely rendition of the venerable old kit. Of course it has its drawbacks (not least the engine and nose which is too short) but who cares when you have markings like these? And who can tell unless they take a really close look with a micrometer? Those old Revell and Airfix kits are good value for money, quick and easy to build and for some of us take us down memory lane. I will post one of these shortly which I made for a WW1 GB for another site which was just such a trip for me.
  9. Going great guns Ian. My you do move quickly on your models - and keep evrything to the highest standard into the bargain. Wait until you get to the rigging.....ha, ha! P
  10. Missed this one recently - been away and forgot to look it up when I got back. If you consider that you are slow with these you ought to see my work rate! Doing an excellent job on both - I too like that Gators grip - looks to be good material to use. Looking forward to seeing them completed.
  11. Yes I usually use 40SWG copper wire which I roll flat using a piece of brass strip and a block of wood. The lengths are measured from the model using dividers and the wires attached with CA. It saves drilling endless holes which can be nearly impossible on pushers (I have a penchant for pushers). I do sometimes use thread on larger biplanes (twin engine bombers or larger). Thanks to all the rest of you who have dropped by and left such positive comments - I really appreciate them. P
  12. You are doing great things with this Ian. The glazing looked like a huge lump of armoured glass before you set to. What an improvement. I still think building from scratch would have not been much more difficult........! P
  13. Completely agree with Sgt Squarehead about those pedals - that is some very fine work indeed. P
  14. That looks very good Ian. Reads like a good solution to your problem: getting ribs to look right on flying surfaces is one of my biggest problems when scratch building. P
  15. I have been away over the holiday break visiting relatives but this is where I had got to before I left. I had joined the lower wing sections and added the ribs to the wings, ailerons and horizontal tail surfaces from 10 x 20 thou strip. The centre rib was missing from the tail surface when the photo was taken - that is now in place. While I was away I decided to take a small box of tools and bits with me so that I could make some parts for this build in the evenings when the relative i visit has gone to bed. This was an experiment which I will now repeat as I was able to make the small wheel discs for the rear wheels and the gearbox housings where the drive shafts from the engines are connected to the propellor shafts. These were small tasks that did not require large amounts of materials or time but kept me happy! The image shows the housings which were made from sprue, and the wheel discs made from 30 thou card with one of the main wheels which I have also completed. The tyres for the small wheels will be made from 30 thou rod wound around a thin paintbrush handle and dipped into hot water. The main wheel was made in this way from 100 thou card shaped with a file and 80 thou rod for the tyre. Thanks for looking.