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When I returned to modelling, almost four years ago, I started with a really simple kit: Airfix's 1/72 Spitfire Mk I. It served as a test-bed for all main modelling techniques and I made all possible mistakes. It turned out not too bad in the end. The effort was worth it, as my second build was much improved: Revell's 1/72 Hurricane Mk IIc. I always try to learn something new with each project, and consolidate already used techniques. Cheers Jaime

Thanks both! I'm using a mix of the techniques suggested in the Weathering Magazine on Seaplanes I've linked to in a previous post. The use of the chipping fluid for chipping is well known but it's the first time I've used it successfully. In previous attempts I didn't chip right after the paint was just dry. In fact, I left the chipping till after the model was completely painted, so it didn't work. Regarding the rainmark effects product, its use for simulating salt marks is suggested in the said magazine. It should be highly thinned and then airbrushed all over the surfaces to weather. Right after airbrushing things look a bit beige but the product can be removed almost completely with a wet paintbrush. In the end I expected a different result but it didn't look too bad as it was. This fluid is really an enamel paint. I think it usually is applied with a fine paintbrush to simulate rain streaks. There's a lot more weathering to come Cheers Jaime

Hi, thanks for your interest. This is my only Italeri build in which I have made a significant progress. The other is Italeri's Mig-29A but I've spent most of the build till now (currently on hold) taking care of the after-market resin parts I'm adding to the kit. So, regarding the Do-24 kit, here are my views: Fit is generally good, but I had to fill in the joins between the wing sections and between the sponsons and fuselage. I still have to glue the fuselage, wing struts and wing together, so I can't evaluate that step of the build yet Good detail in the cockpit and engines, the machine guns are not bad either (for plastic parts) There's a lot of surface detail: a mix of recessed panel lines, raised panel lines and rivets. I'm sure there will be people who won't like it but it didn't bother me. In fact, it seems that a lot more panel lines could be seen in real pictures. The kit comes with a PE fret but the instrument panel has no detail for the instruments (it's not a multi-layer panel, like Eduard's current approach, or a metal part + acetate with instruments; there's no decal for instruments either). However, this is a minor point, as the instrument panel can't really be seen through the cockpit windows. The PE walkways are very difficult to bend on the edges (there should be a slight bend, delimiting the walkways laterally) The worst parts of the kit are the transparent parts for the side windows (really bad but, again, there's nothing to look at inside) and the gun turrets (a bit thick). The transparent part for the cockpit windows is very clear and distortion free but didn't fit perfectly on the fuselage. The instructions are reasonably good but some details are a bit vague (ex: installation of the rear turret, demarcation of the camouflage in the German aircraft) and there was an error on the decal scheme of the German aircraft (decals nº 9 should be nº 10 and vice-versa) The decals are very good (Cartograph) All in all I'd recommend this kit. Please note that I'm no expert in any aircraft type, so I can't discuss if the kit is accurate or not, but it looks very much like the real thing as shown in period pictures. Hope this helps. Cheers Jaime

Hi again, After decaling, another Aqua Gloss coat was applied to seal the decals and get the parts ready for further weathering. The next weathering step was meant to simulate salt accumulation on the surfaces of the aircraft that were above the water and subject to sea water spray. For this, I airbrushed a fine mist of AMMO Mig's Rainmark Effects, highly diluted in enamel thinner, on the fuselage top surfaces, top and bottom surfaces of the wing and all the smaller parts (engine nacelles, wing struts, etc). It should be noted that, previously to this, I had applied a coat of chipping fluid to all said surfaces and parts. After allowing a short drying time, I used a large flat brush dipped in clear water to remove the excess Rainmark Effects coat. This was done moving the brush in the direction of airflow. Almost all the excess was removed, leaving just some accumulations on panel lines and a subtle shadowing on the rest of the surfaces. The following pictures try to show the resulting effects, though these were dependent on the lighting angle. Overall view of the fuselage: IMAG5385 Detailed views of the fuselage: IMAG5386 IMAG5387 IMAG5388 Details on the wing's top surface: IMAG5389 IMAG5390 Details of the wing's underside: IMAG5391 IMAG5392 These effects were later further cut down, after application of the matte coating. Anyway, they didn't disappear completely and still add to the weathered look of the aircraft. Thanks for looking, Jaime

Chris, Ced, Tony, Håkan, Thank you very much for your interest and appreciation! It's my first use of these weathering techniques, so I'm learning and enjoying the process! Cheers Jaime

Thank you, Benedikt! Indeed, these aircraft could be a bit weathered, as can be seen in the pictures I linked to in a previous post but it's possible I'm overdoing it a bit. Anyway, the most spectacular weathering is still to be posted... Regarding the swastikas, as shown in pictures of real aircraft, they were quite big: Cheers Jaime

Excellent progress, Sam! From this end of the internet the NMF looks really good. I know well how it's like to have limited time for modelling but I also try to learn new tricks with every build, so I think your effort learning and perfecting your NMF technique is worth it. I'm very interested in learning from your experience, so please keep going and tell us all the details. Cheers Jaime

Hi again, With the painting concluded and a good Aqua Gloss coat on, the next step was applying the decals. Here's the work space set up just for that: IMAG5376 Inspection of the decals and instructions revealed that decals nº 9 and 10 had their identification numbers switched in the instructions: IMAG5360 Decals nº 9 should be placed inside the yellow walkway lines on the top of the wing, while decals nº 10 should be placed on the aileron and elevator trims. The decal application was carried out without any issues, as these are Cartograph-printed decals. I used decal setting and solvent solutions and the decals reacted well. I had to use swastikas from a swastika decal sheet, as these are not present in the kit's decals. I used pictures of real aircraft to determine the correct size and location on the tail fins. Here are the results: IMAG5377 IMAG5378 IMAG5379 IMAG5380 I had to damage the walkway line decals and stencils to blend them with the chipping on the wing surface: IMAG5381 IMAG5382 On the other hand, I had to repair the chipping around the BMW logo on one of the engine nacelles (the one on the left in the picture): IMAG5384 Thanks for looking Jaime

Thanks, Ced! You're very kind, as always! Indeed I was very fortunate that the masking worked well overall, in spite of the few extra chipping it originated (due to the chipping fluid under the paint) but which was relatively easy to fix. Cheers Jaime

Håkan, Tony, Thank you very much for your appreciation! It really is a big aircraft, my biggest build till now. It's also been a great learning experience regarding weathering techniques specific to sea planes. Some have already been shown in this thread but the most interesting will be posted in the next few days. Cheers Jaime

Hi again, Continuing with the updating of this thread, the next step was repairing some spots that were damaged when removing the masking tape. For that purpose, I used highly thinned paint, applied in fine coats with a detail brush. The following pictures show the results. Repair of the hull painting aft of the starboard sponson: IMAG5358 Repair of excessive chipping on the underside of the starboard sponson: IMAG5359 Repair of excessive chipping on the light blue area of one of the engine nacelles (I should have repaired also the dark green area, as I found out when applying the decals): IMAG5360 And, finally, repair of excessive chipping on the top of the fuselage (on the lower left hand of the walkway and on the delimitation of camouflage colours on the walkway): IMAG5362 Next, I had to paint the yellow areas of the fuselage and wings. Starting with the tail yellow band, I delimited the white "primer" band: IMAG5361 IMAG5363 The tail and half of the fuselage was protected with kitchen cling-film: IMAG5364 On the wings, I removed the masking of the underwing tips, exposing the white "primer": IMAG5365 Next, I delimited the white area with masking tape: IMAG5366 The protection of the underwing RLM65 Blue was completed: IMAG6367 The top of the wing was masked along the edges of the tips and the whole top surface was also protected: IMAG5368 The RLM04 Yellow areas were, then painted, and the masking was removed after allowing the paint to dry for a few hours: IMAG5371 IMAG5372 IMAG5373 IMAG5374 IMAG5375 The main painting was, now, complete. Thanks for looking Jaime

Great build! Cheers Jaime

Looks beautiful! Great finish! Cheers Jaime

Good to see this one back on track! Great aluminium finish! Cheers Jaime

Got it this week at my LMS: Eduard BIG72102 PE and Mask set for the Airfix He-111P 1/72 Cheers Jaime