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jrlx last won the day on September 14 2018

jrlx had the most liked content!

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About jrlx

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 03/02/1969

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lisbon, Portugal
  • Interests
    Military aviation, all ages, in 1/72

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  1. Hello, I've resumed working on this build. As I said elsewhere, while the build was stored away on the shelf of doom, I've bought Master's brass gun for Cobras. However this gun is for later versions and won't be used with this kit. Now I have a good excuse to buy Dream Model's AH-1Z Viper I also bought a vacform canopy for this specific kit: IMAG6829 To start with, I cleaned the moulding marks from the main rotor shaft and cut the plastic piece which served as head-up display: IMAG6831 The HUD will be replaced by piece C of this acetate sheet, where instrument panels are also shown: IMAG6832 The backs of the instrument panels were painted flat white. Some additional work was needed in the cockpit. The pedals are replaced by PE parts nº 27: IMAG6834 Here they are, glued in place: IMAG6835 PE part nº 11 is to be glued inside the canopy but must be bent to shape before installation: IMAG6836 Final shape, ready for painting: IMAG6837 A lever for the pilot station must be scratch built. The instructions suggest using stretched sprue but I used plasticard rods. The diameters suggested in the instructions seem to be out of scale (1,5 mm and 1,0 mm diameter). My first attempt used 1,0 mm and 0,66 mm but it also looked out of scale. So, I used 0,75 mm and 0,5 mm for my second attempt. The picture below shows the instructions and the two attempts glued to a toothpick, ready for painting: IMAG6844 The insides of the pod parts were painted black: IMAG6833 The paint was allowed to dry for a few days and, then, the pods parts were glued together: IMAG6845 Clean up of the seams and some filler will be needed. There is a PE part to apply to the bottom of the cannon turret: IMAG6842 The PE part was glued in place: IMAG6842 The openings on the bottom of the turret were made: IMAG6847 There are some grids to install on openings around the engine. I chose to use the PE parts that came with the kit, instead of the same parts from the Brengun fret, because the grids are actually perforated: IMAG6838 Here the grids are glued in place IMAG6839 That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Cheers Jaime
  2. Count me in! I have Academy's P-38J in ETO markings and I've been slowly adding after market add-ons for a super-detailed build. Cheers Jaime
  3. I'm relieved to know the B-2 is good. I hope they eventually launch a good B-1.
  4. Great effort, Ran. I also found the nose area joins to be difficult to take care of. And you did a better job with the tail exhaust seam than I. Cheers Jaime
  5. @Ran thank you for your interest. I hope you can find something useful in my build to help you with yours Cheers Jaime
  6. Thank you very much! The real "Caspian Sea Monster" was much bigger. The "Orlyonok" was a "baby" Ekranoplan. This video gives some interesting info about these machines: Cheers Jaime
  7. Thank you very much, Karl! That's extremely kind! Cheers Jaime
  8. Thank you very much, Giorgio! That's very kind! Cheers Jaime
  9. Thank you very much! It was an attempt at using the black base technique. Thank you very much! Very kind!
  10. @jhutchi, @junglierating, @Vinnie, @Johnson, @Ron Pearcy, @Wulfman Thank you all for your kind comments! Much appreciated! @AV O thanks for the link. I already knew this build Cheers Jaime
  11. Thank you very much Charlie! Much appreciated! Cheers Jaime
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