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About sapperastro

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  1. Rough Humbrol acrylic: a work around.

    I have yet to come across a pot of acrylic paint that has a union jack on it. The only Humbrol acrylics that I have that say 'made in uk/England' are my old pots of 'hobby acrylic' that are still in service. All of the new variety I have, including those that came from the UK, say 'made in China'. How many of these new UK acrylics are in circulation? I know they sent the enamels to Rustins, and this has been a topsy turvey outcome. They are usually uniformly thick, and while many brush out brilliantly when thinned, you will sometimes come across a tin full of strange paint that doesn't seem to cover properly and takes forever to dry, and adheres poorly, or my latest find; a tin of matt white that is the consistency of toothpaste...I complain about each of these findings, but i am willing to bet Humbrol has put me on a crank list by now. Thankfully the enamels at lest have been slowly imrpoving, but they need to get that 'paint straight from the tin' rubbish off the instructions; that doesn't work anymore
  2. Rough Humbrol acrylic: a work around.

    If this is the first time you have experienced it then I envy your luck Ray. Out of a dozen or so pots bought in a 3 year period it affects virtually every one of the newer labelled red swish with blue writing pots I have, including 2 dark earths bought a couple of years apart, on opposite sides of the world. Those with older labels or even the dreaded flip toppers don't have this issue. Thanks Paul, the reason I suggest sending emails to Humbrol is not to anger anyone, just to barrage them with reasons to get out there and fix whatever the hell is going on. I can brush them easily enough, but the grit just destroys surface detail. I want Humbrol/Airfix/Hornby to succeed as I have used all of their products for many years. Unfortunately, if they have issues, they need to be told, by as may people as possible. If just a couple of gits like me complain, they will shrug their shoulders and forget about it.
  3. Beginner

    And when you use those rattle can matt sprays, warm the can for ten minutes or so in warm water, and shake it well. When spraying, make sure you are at least 20cm away and just lightly mist the coats on with passes across one side, turn the aircraft to a different side, repeat, don't put too much on that you see it start to pool. Let it dry off for an hour or so before repeating the same thing. Don't try to finish it in one spraying session, or you will get a big white mess, and the rattlecan paint might melt your previous coat.
  4. Beginner

    Which small parts? Unless they are going to have a lot of physical contact, don't bother. While Vallejo comes off fairly easily from bare plastic, it still requires some small effort to remove. Just paint them and move on. Once they are clear coated they will be fine.
  5. Beginner

    Just remember the golden tip; poly cement will not stick painted parts together. So if you prime things on the sprue, you will need to first clear the contact areas of paint and then touch up any areas that were attached to the sprue afterwards. As for myself, I rarely bother priming. Even when using acrylic paint, depending on the brand, you won't need primer for the paint to stick so long as you wash the kit plastic thoroughly first, and don't overthin the paint. Priming can help things along, true, but unless you are painting with Vallejo, or Lifecolour ie one of the weaker sticking paints, it isn't a dire necessity. It can help spot flaws in seams and so on. When I use Revell Aqua, Humbrol Acrylic, or Model Master Acrylic (the acrylic brands I usually use, they stick well to the plastic. If you choose to use acrylics, my choice of thinner for the brands I brush with is winsor and newton flow improver. Excellent stuff. I use Revell Aqua, Humbrol Acrylic and Model Master Acrylic. For Enamels, I try to use the branded thinners. I use Colourcoats whenever I can, with Humbrol and Tamiya enamel bringing up the rest of the colours needed. I don't bother putting any paint on sprued parts unless it is easier and doesn't require a heap of touching up later.
  6. Rough Humbrol acrylic: a work around.

    Yep, it seems to come up out of the blue. What colour was it Ray? might be a good idea to flip an email off to Humbrol along with the batch number on the side of the pot.
  7. French ww2 bomber/fighterbomber colour

    Hello all, I am tackling a couple of old Heller WW2 French bombers, and the colour callout calls for a sandy yellow along with the brown/green on the top of the aircraft. Looking at pictures on the net, I can see the familiar blue grey/green/brown schemes, just as heller calls out for fighters. Does anyone know if both were used? Or is the sandy yellow a fantasy/later in Africa colour?
  8. Advice on most accurate range of enamels.........

    Colourcoats. There is no contest.
  9. Primer

    It depends which paint I am using to be honest. Acrylic, and I usually give it a once over prime after it is built, with any clear parts masked. If enamel, I don't bother, and just run a brush with some light shade of acrylic across any suspect seams; acrylic because I cannot be bothered waiting for seam checking paint to dry
  10. What do people use Humbrol 66 olive for?

    I think you have something there Rob. I might try a few camo schemes on spare test wings. It certainly looks the part from the photos.
  11. Rough Humbrol acrylic: a work around.

    Haha, you know what? My experiment went like this; Hmm, I wonder if one of those kitchen scourers would do the trick? The Mrs isn't in sight, I think I will just nab that one sitting on the side of the sink...good, looks like it hasn't seen much use, lets give her a whirl... You may see a difference depending on what you had on your plate
  12. Rough Humbrol acrylic: a work around.

    I don't know if anybody cares, but I thought I would share a quick work around for some of the current rough/gritty humbrol acrylics that found their way onto the market over the past year or so. I needed to use a shade I had that I knew had this problem, so I forged on and painted the model with it. Sure enough, the rough finish came out. I have heard about people using micromesh, etc, but thought I would be a cheap bugger and try a scotchbrite (green washing up plastic wool cloth). Success. The rough vanished after giving it a good rub down with the scotchbrite. So if you need to use humbrol acrylics and they have this rough issue, it can be worked around if needs be, on the cheap. Of course, wait until the paint is thoroughly dry first
  13. What do people use Humbrol 66 olive for?

    Hmm, always seemed a little too grey to me. The only thing that really popped was perhaps German army helmet ww2...
  14. What do people use Humbrol 66 olive for?

    Hello all, Just going through my paint horde here, and I discovered a fairly old, unopened tin of Humbrol 66 olive drab. Most of my other colours have been used now and again, but never this...Has anyone ever used this for any scheme? Does it actually match any used shade on anything?
  15. Humbrol paints rubbish?

    And don't paint from the tin. Stir it good, and once everything looks thoroughly mixed in, take some out to your mixing utensil, and then add your choice of thinners to create the consistency you like before applying with the brush. As Graham said, there is always there chance you have one of the duff tins that did the rounds too. Even with the rlms, I have found it was the first batches that were terrible (and a few other colours. I had an 83 ochre with the same weak, dry in a century, issues) and the later ones were the 'thick but usable once stirred/thinned' variety. If you want easy to use Stir thoroughly/decant/paint enamels that never have an issue, use Colourcoats, otherwise you will have to get to know how each manufacturer behaves in order to get a decent finish. Just read the 10-20 minutes stirring...I have never come across a paint that needs that much. Get an electric coffee frother, take off the coil at the end and have a metal bent L shape and use that. Or, get a metal stirring stick/spoon like the tamiya stirrers, and use that to gouge the chemicals, etc off the bottom and then slowly mix them in, getting faster as the goop melts off the stirrer (this is for older Humbrols, the newer variants don't seem to get 'stuck' on the bottom as much), then spoon it out with the tamiya stirrer spoon onto your mixing area before thinning. Don't forget to give the rim of the tin a quick wipe before replacing the lid for a tight seal.