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iSteve

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About iSteve

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  • Birthday March 28

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    iModel.blog

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    Male
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    Winnipeg, Canada
  1. Well this explains the rather cryptic "guess what we're doing next" announcement a while back. Thanks Paul.
  2. I think that's where I'll be getting mine. Only catch is you have to pay in full to get the pre-order. Still, it's a great price and you have until May 31 to place your order to get the 20% discounted price.
  3. I've been hunting around for a good, small, sharp pair of scissors for precision cutting or just good, clean cuts for, say, decals. For really good scissors, the consensus seems to be Kai scissors. I've looked over their products and figure the N3140S Embroidery and Handicraft Scissors look about right for my needs. Anyone here familiar with the brand? Own a pair? Recommendations?
  4. Very nice build Calum! From assembly to paint and finish to weathering, an all around excellent build. Well done!
  5. Actually Paul I'm not sure about the IPA. I just assumed that since Stynylrez was water-based, IPA should clean it up. Since I haven't found a need to thin it, I didn't bother getting any thinner and I prefer "all-in-one" solutions to cleaning (well, two since I also use lacquer thinner to clean Alclad and dried paint) so didn't bother with Badger's cleaner. I'm still at a loss as to why the Tamiya paint locked up my needle. I'd really appreciate your insights Paul as I know you're the resident H&S expert.
  6. Why doesn't Moebius do a limited run separate kit themselves? Since they have all the specs for the main kit, they could probably have one out faster than anyone else - and in styrene?
  7. I guess this is a problem created by me through my cleaning practices, but more recently I've been having some problems with dried paint keeping my needle from moving. Once in a while, I get it happening when I've been using my thinned Tamiya paints, but more often after spraying Stynylrez primer. Typically, after spraying one colour, I blow IPA through my brush along with some wiping with a cotton swab in the cup area. I blow through until it comes clean both in the cup and from the spray. Occasionally I cover the nozzle and back flush to get the paint rinsed out of the body. Yet if I leave the brush for a while, once in a while the needle gets stuck and I have to break down the brush and do a thorough cleaning. This may sound typical, but I'm talking about having a perfectly clean brush after a complete thorough clean, spraying some thinned Tamiya black, doing a simple clean with IPA as described above, and then leaving the brush alone for a day or two. Go to use the brush again and the needle's stuck. Pull it all apart and there's black paint on the needle. Shouldn't the PTFE seals prevent this? Happens on both my Infinity and Infinity CR Plus. Stynylrez is worse. I've found that I have to clean with lacquer thinner as I get very tiny beads of Stynylrez floating in the IPA which take forever to blow out. It just doesn't seem to react well with IPA. So, clean with LT and then rinse with IPA. Even still, it seems I have to go through a lot of LT before it's finally clear of Stynylrez. One thing I noticed that I may have been doing wrong is the instructions say to pull the needle out from the back when cleaning, not pushing through the front. I've been doing the latter since I had been taught long ago with my Badger brushes to pull through the front to prevent paint being pulled back through the body. I've been now pulling the needle out the back and there doesn't seem to be problem doing so. So how do I get at the paint sitting inside the body without having to break it down every time?
  8. For those that have watched the Blu-ray release, did you notice the bacta tank scene seemed different on Blu-ray than it did in the theatre? Or is it just me?
  9. Again, thank you all for your insights. Looking at Tim's forest of parts, and comments, can I assume then that the process is prep and paint all parts and then assembly followed by weathering? I guess all painting has to be done before assembly, considering they're posable, yes? Not really a bad way to go - you don't break your flow moving from one stage of the build to the next. I haven't found a 1/100 Unicorn HG, though the RXF-9/Kai looks interesting (both iterations). I think I'll just get the MG Unicorn - HLJ has one with premium decals included, so that's probably the one I'll grab. I don't have as much time as I'd like to model with a young family to raise, so finding time to get into the actual story lines is problematic. However, hopefully over time I will get the chance to watch more of the series and maybe do a few more kits that grab my interest.
  10. Just to add a different view, I was as enthused as most about this stuff, but am now less so. I find the adhesion poor and making tighter curves with, say, a radius of 1 cm can be trying as I get kinks (using 1mm tape). You can smooth down the kinks, but you'd best do what you will quickly because they can pop back up. Also found they do creep a bit. Caveat being perhaps I'm not using it properly, but it should be straightforward and has been frustrating to work with at times.
  11. While I agree with Tarkas about its accuracy, I would check out some screen shots of the actual studio model as you may want to trim down the disc edges to make the kit flatter. Test fit and then compare with the studio model. I think the kit's overall accuracy is why Moebius never bothered issuing one. I finally got this kit last year and will be following along with great interest. Love what you've done so far!
  12. That is some excellent weathering sir.
  13. Very nicely done. This kit is on my want list. Did you use any aftermarket? How did the build go? Any issues?
  14. Brilliant work! Love the balanced weathering effects you used. Well done! I've got this kit and will use your build for reference.
  15. Hobbyboss

    So the Great Wall version is still the one to get?