Jump to content

If you're one of the gradually reducing number of folks that aren't currently receiving notifications to topics you've subscribed to, or PMs you're receiving, first check you've got the correct address in your profile, then drop in and post your experience in this thread, remembering to tell us your email provider's details, which is the part after the @ in your email address.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

dominic_2005

Members
  • Content count

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

89 Good

About dominic_2005

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK

Recent Profile Visitors

84 profile views
  1. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Hiya Markie. I will be airbrushing the majority of this yes.
  2. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Good afternoon. I've further revised my electrical plans, taking into account better ways of wiring, directing light, etc. I've also drawn up my plans into slightly more accurate schematics, with some personal changes to make it easier for me to read and remember. My total price still to spend, including paints and detail kits etc, is around £280 eeeek! You will probably have to click on the images for them to be legible. (Any LED marked "Driver" will be used to drive fibre optics. I have left some scope to add further LEDs as I go, which is most likely to happen. Thanks D
  3. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Good afternoon I think I have finally finalised how I am going to light this. And it's completely different from the way I originally had in mind. Instead of (being lazy) and making use of pre-wired, pre-resistored LEDs and wiring each LED directly to the power source. I will instead wire them in series chains of 2 or 3 mostly, with the odd single LED where there is no alternative. Aside from being the correct way of doing it, it also gives me great redundancy, as if 1 LED should fail, it's not going to take the rest of them with it, as I had happen with my Aida Luna. (All the time I've been planning this, I was desperately trying to come up with a way of accessing everything after it's all put together, but I just cannot think of a way without compromising the finished look.) And over all, it works out cheaper too, another bonus lol During my planning, I've made (and tested) several schematics for my wiring. I will break everything up into 5 layers of LEDs, depending on where they sit within the ship vertically, and each layer into 2 halves, to help with the amp load. Which by the way, according to my calculations, sits at around 2.5A, so I need to re-think my power supply as the one I had in mind wouldn't handle it. (1A). Somewhere into my plans, I will incorporate a fuse, (which will go under the stand for access), as soon as I work out whether the value of fuse I need should be the same as each circuit (Approx 1/2 Amp) or the total value of all the circuits (Approx 2.5 Amp). Thanks D
  4. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    No pressure then lol Hope you are not eager to start yours? Might be a few more months before I can even get everything I need
  5. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Great thanks. I've seen those moldings on the kit. That makes it really easy to light as well.
  6. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    I actually do. Where are the navigation (red & green) lamps located? I can't see them anywhere in any image. Thanks
  7. Electronics Question

    I did read it. I didn't understand much of it, but I got the basics. My problem is my experiences always counter that which every piece of information I read tells me...hence, I will never understand it lol Also, I don't get the difference between fact and opinion of the writer. EG: One article will say "oh never ever put LED's in Parallel" ... whilst another says Parallel is required in order not to limit the number of LED's to the amount of the power source. As I understand it, and by all means correct me if I am wrong, if I had, say 10 3.4v non-resistored LED's and I wired them in series, I would need a power supply of 34v. However, I could add a resistor to each one of those 3.4v LED's and run them in parallel from a single 12v power supply.
  8. Electronics Question

    OK, I will never ever understand electronics. I was just playing about with ideas, and I took 3 LED's. 3.2v 20mA @ 12v I connected each one directly to the power source (Parallel) and as should be, they were all the same brightness. I tried those same 3 LED's in Series, and...they still all lit up the same brightness. By rights, only the first one should have been fully lit, the 2nd and 3rd should have been slightly dimmer.
  9. Electronics Question

    Fair few huh? I will be running it from a mains 12v DC power supply. I ran my Aida Luna using the same method and that had around 150-ish LED's: I am already planning on using fibre-optics as well. There may not end up being that many bulbs in, thats how many i've ordered. But then there are 12 LED's just for the floodlights around the external hull below the lifeboat deck lol.
  10. Electronics Question

    Off the top of my head, will be around 170-180 LED's. Most of them are pre-wired/pre-resistored to run off 12v. On top of that, about 30-40 will be manually fitted with a 470 Ohm resistor each. (Bought on advice).
  11. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Evening. Although there is still a lot I need to get for this, there are still things I can be getting on with. Such as making holes in a beautifully molded and crafted hull. Time to crack out the Dremmel! Thankfully, the plastic is really thick, and the areas that are indented where the windows are is really thin. As an added bonus, the thing frame in the middle of each window is the full thickness, so will be pretty strong. Holding up to the light, you can see how thin the windows actually are: It doesn't actually take very much to sand it through, but leaving the frames perfectly intact! There will of course be a little tidying up to do afterwards... Although it seems like a daunting task, it goes pretty quick. Much better than having to drill 4 holes in each window and cutting with a blade anyway. So I will leave you with my progress so far. I won't be in any rush to complete this task, as I have several weeks, maybe months before I have everything else I need. Thanks D
  12. Electronics Question

    I hate electronics lol So If I was to use 1mmx3mm copper strip, it's not going to give me a brightness reduction? Or even 2mm copper wire...basically something thick enough to hold it's shape is what I am looking to use ideally. Thanks D
  13. Electronics Question

    Hiya folks. Quick question regarding resistance from someone who's knowledge of electronics is limited to + is positive, - is negative. I am planning a lighted build, in parallel. All LED's are 3.2v each with an individual resistor to run from a 12v power source. If I was to use, say two strips of copper to act like a power rail for each LED to be connected to, would the thickness/width of said copper affect the result? IE, if it is too thick is it going to cause the LED's to be dimmer than just using cables? Hope I explained that? Thanks D
  14. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    I've tried both. To be honest clamp and wick I find the better method. With applying then clamping, on such a long hull, I usually end up having to redo the half I did first as the glue starts to cure before I get chance to get the two halves together, then there is positioning time...with clamp and wick I can get everything lined up first. D
  15. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    The kit itself finally arrived today, which was a relief as it was a private listing and I was starting to have concerns. The box was a bit battered, but the listing did mention that. Not to worry, I am not building a box lol. As is always the case with this kit, it was well packed. Nothing looks like it had ever been opened so will have been fairly well preserved, aside from the obligatory broken stairs on the main deck piece. Don't think any of the kits I've had of this ship have been intact, usually something is damaged. Clean break so simple fix though. I know you guys have probably seen pics of the contents a thousand times before, but well, here they are again. Thanks D
×