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About dominic_2005

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  1. Electronics Question

    I did read it. I didn't understand much of it, but I got the basics. My problem is my experiences always counter that which every piece of information I read tells me...hence, I will never understand it lol Also, I don't get the difference between fact and opinion of the writer. EG: One article will say "oh never ever put LED's in Parallel" ... whilst another says Parallel is required in order not to limit the number of LED's to the amount of the power source. As I understand it, and by all means correct me if I am wrong, if I had, say 10 3.4v non-resistored LED's and I wired them in series, I would need a power supply of 34v. However, I could add a resistor to each one of those 3.4v LED's and run them in parallel from a single 12v power supply.
  2. Electronics Question

    OK, I will never ever understand electronics. I was just playing about with ideas, and I took 3 LED's. 3.2v 20mA @ 12v I connected each one directly to the power source (Parallel) and as should be, they were all the same brightness. I tried those same 3 LED's in Series, and...they still all lit up the same brightness. By rights, only the first one should have been fully lit, the 2nd and 3rd should have been slightly dimmer.
  3. Electronics Question

    Fair few huh? I will be running it from a mains 12v DC power supply. I ran my Aida Luna using the same method and that had around 150-ish LED's: I am already planning on using fibre-optics as well. There may not end up being that many bulbs in, thats how many i've ordered. But then there are 12 LED's just for the floodlights around the external hull below the lifeboat deck lol.
  4. Electronics Question

    Off the top of my head, will be around 170-180 LED's. Most of them are pre-wired/pre-resistored to run off 12v. On top of that, about 30-40 will be manually fitted with a 470 Ohm resistor each. (Bought on advice).
  5. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Evening. Although there is still a lot I need to get for this, there are still things I can be getting on with. Such as making holes in a beautifully molded and crafted hull. Time to crack out the Dremmel! Thankfully, the plastic is really thick, and the areas that are indented where the windows are is really thin. As an added bonus, the thing frame in the middle of each window is the full thickness, so will be pretty strong. Holding up to the light, you can see how thin the windows actually are: It doesn't actually take very much to sand it through, but leaving the frames perfectly intact! There will of course be a little tidying up to do afterwards... Although it seems like a daunting task, it goes pretty quick. Much better than having to drill 4 holes in each window and cutting with a blade anyway. So I will leave you with my progress so far. I won't be in any rush to complete this task, as I have several weeks, maybe months before I have everything else I need. Thanks D
  6. Electronics Question

    I hate electronics lol So If I was to use 1mmx3mm copper strip, it's not going to give me a brightness reduction? Or even 2mm copper wire...basically something thick enough to hold it's shape is what I am looking to use ideally. Thanks D
  7. Electronics Question

    Hiya folks. Quick question regarding resistance from someone who's knowledge of electronics is limited to + is positive, - is negative. I am planning a lighted build, in parallel. All LED's are 3.2v each with an individual resistor to run from a 12v power source. If I was to use, say two strips of copper to act like a power rail for each LED to be connected to, would the thickness/width of said copper affect the result? IE, if it is too thick is it going to cause the LED's to be dimmer than just using cables? Hope I explained that? Thanks D
  8. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    I've tried both. To be honest clamp and wick I find the better method. With applying then clamping, on such a long hull, I usually end up having to redo the half I did first as the glue starts to cure before I get chance to get the two halves together, then there is positioning time...with clamp and wick I can get everything lined up first. D
  9. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    The kit itself finally arrived today, which was a relief as it was a private listing and I was starting to have concerns. The box was a bit battered, but the listing did mention that. Not to worry, I am not building a box lol. As is always the case with this kit, it was well packed. Nothing looks like it had ever been opened so will have been fairly well preserved, aside from the obligatory broken stairs on the main deck piece. Don't think any of the kits I've had of this ship have been intact, usually something is damaged. Clean break so simple fix though. I know you guys have probably seen pics of the contents a thousand times before, but well, here they are again. Thanks D
  10. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Hello. I'm still working on the planning for this build, as can be seen in my post above, and I am gradually getting through ordering the various components. In the mean time, I have been drafting out how I plan on lighting her, and rough positions for the various LED's and Fibre Optics. So far I've come up with 4 plans, each one a "layer" of lighting/optics. There are a number of things I've excluded at this time, and will approach them later or when I am actually building the model. Sooo... Layer #1 - This is the lowest layer in the hull, and the LED's in this section are just for the windows in the lower hull, and at the stern. Layer #2 - The LED's in this layer roughly correspond with the beginning of the white section of the hull, and below the lifeboat deck. Layer #3 - This is level with the lifeboat deck, and is mainly driving LED's for the fibre optic "lamps" which will run the length of that deck, along with a single LED for the section at the stern. (Mixed in here somewhere will be blue driving LED's for the swimming pool). The "squares" you can see along each side of the hull are for the main, spotlights I guess you could call them, which run just below this deck. I plan on using pre-wired SMD's for those. Layer 4 - This is for 90% of the cabin lighting, along with LED-driven fibre optics for the balcony lamps. Random windows will be blacked out with plasticard, and some that are lit won't have the balcony lamp on, and vice versa. Hopefully this will add a little randomness and life to the lighting. Count so far: Warm White: 54 Bright White: 33 Bright White SMD's: 25 Green: 1 (lol) Planning continues.... Thanks D
  11. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    Well I think I have finalised my plans for this, and my rather large shopping list (Strike through are items I already have.) The kit: Revell 1/400 Queen Mary 2 £69.99 Detail sets: Artwok Wooden Deck £43.76 Gold Medal Models PE set £48.99 Paints: Ak Interactive White Primer x2 £10.50 Ak Interactive Grey Primer x2 £10.50 Ak Interactive Gloss Varnish x1 £5.25 Ak Interactive Matt Varnish x1 £5.25 Ak Interactive Satin Varnish x1 £5.25 Ak Interactive White x5 £10.00 Ak Interactive Old Rust x2 £4.00 - Anti Foul Paint Ak Interactive Dunkelgrau Shadow x2 £4.00 - Hull Ak Interactive Satin Black x1 £2.00 - Smoke Stack Ak Interactive Intense Red x1 £2.07 - Smoke Stack diffuser Ak Interactive Dust x1 £2.00 - Rear pool deck/Possibly Cabin Balconies if my other plan fails Ak Interactive Medium Rust x1 £2.00 - Lifeboats/Auxiliary craft Ak Interactive Cockpit Turquoise x1 £2.07 - Swimming pool walls/floors Ak Interactive Brown Leather Camoflage x1 £2.07 - Hand rails Tamiya Smoke Acrylic x1 £1.75 - Most of the clear windows/rails Swimming Pools: Ak Interactive Still Water resin. £9.89 - Swimming pools Lighting: 60 x 3mm Warm White £13.47 - Internal Lighting 5 x 3mm Red flat tops £1.49 - Navigation lamps driving LED 5 x 3mm Green flat tops £1.49 - Navigation lamps driving LED 20 x 3mm Blue £4.49 - Swimming pool lights driving LED 40 x 2mm White flat tops £15.98 - Internal/External lighting 40 x 0402 1mm SMD's White pre-wired £9.98 - External lighting/Misc 10m 0.25mm Fibre Optic £2.75 - Various 10m 0.50mm Fibre Optic £3.50 - Various 10m 0.75mm Fibre Optic £1.80 - Various 10m 1.00mm Fibre Optic £2.60 - Various 5m 2.00mm Fibre Optic £9.99 - Various 12v DC power supply + female socket + switch £6.56 Red/Black cable £9.40 Adjustable Temp soldering iron £18.90 60-40 solder £3.95 LED Tester - £2.99 Resistors £2.82 Clear Frosted Acrylic £3.99 Black Card - £4.25 Styrene Tube 5mm x 3mm(Int) £3.10 - Fibre Optic driving LED holders Heat Shrink Tubing 1.6mm £0.99 Heat Shrink Tubing 2.4mm £0.99 Heat Shrink Tubing 3.2mm £1.09 Heat Shrink Tubing 4.8mm £1.09 Heat Shrink Tubing 6.4mm £1.19 Heat Shrink Tubing 9.5mm £1.19 7mm x 2mm Strips £11.55 - Supports 9mm x 2mm Strips £13.20 - Supports I think that is just about everything....I'll edit this if I think of things I need. I think this is more for my own benefit lol, gives me a convenient place to store my requirements. Thanks D
  12. 1/72 Spitfire Mk1/Mk2a Quick build

    Thanks. We're always learning. Which I did forget lol D
  13. 1/72 Spitfire Mk1/Mk2a Quick build

    Another update. Time to do the upper side, but first, need to mask off the lower. Then I airbrushed the entire upper surface with thinned Tamiya Flat Earth, as it was the closest colour I had to hand. (Meant to be Dark Earth - Humbrol). And finally, I used IJN Green for the rest. I decided, as I was using this kit for practice, to have a crack at freehanding the green with my airbrush. Not an easy task given my unsteady hands and noviceness with an airbrush, but fairly impressed with my efforts. Next task, gloss coat, pinwash, matt coat. Thanks D
  14. 1/72 Spitfire Mk1/Mk2a Quick build

    Good morning. Done a fair bit to this over the last day or so. Starting with assembling the basic aircraft, so I can get any joins and seams filled and sanded. Then I fixed the wings in place and left to dry. Got everything filled and sanded and masked off ready for a coat of primer. I was lucky when it came to masking the cockpit off as the kit is for two versions, which the canopies are different. On top of that, the canopy fits in nicely without any need for glue. I was able to use the spare one to effectively mask off the cockpit with very little fiddly masking needed. So that was all done and a few coats of primer applied with my airbrush. As you can see there was still a little filling that needed doing... Once that was sorted, and another primer applied, I started on a new technique (to me): pre-shading. This took a few attempts to get the hang of, and the right way of doing it. Initially, I pre-shaded the primer coat, then applied the colour coat over that. Due to needing a heavier colour coat to cover the primer, the effect was lost. So, once that colour coat was dry, I pre-shaded that instead, then went over it again with a very light almost translucent colour coat. The result is subtle, which is fine for this scale, but I think for my first attempt, didn't turn out too bad. So far at least... The affect is really hard to photograph. I need to find some way of turning all the auto filters off on my phone :/ Thanks D
  15. Queen Mary 2 1/400 by Revell - Attempt number 4

    The biggest issue with the kit itself is the hull potholes aren't holes. They are molded dents in the plastic. Luckily I found a solution to this on my previous attempt, and using a dremmel and being very gentle, it is possible to sand the inside of the hull to open up those dents without affecting the surrounding hull, thanks to the thickness of the plastic. It's a precarious operation. One slip and the entire section can be ruined. Not to mention it stinks to high heaven. And has to be done slowly with breaks to ensure the plastic doesn't heat up too much and melt. As for not lighting up every window, I plan to use frosted acrylic which I have already and then some thick black card or even plasticard sprayed black to "black out" Windows I don't want lit. Thanks D