Welcome to Britmodeller.com

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

  • Announcements

    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

kev_1962

Members
  • Content count

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About kev_1962

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    leigh

Recent Profile Visitors

149 profile views
  1. Done some research online and found the cost of individual pilots to be a little excessive so I've bought a 1/72 tiger moth which comes with 2 pilots...tho not obviously ww1 it's close enough after a little scalpel work and paint. Worked out cheaper and gives me another model to build 😊
  2. Hi there. Thought I would dip my toe into 1/72 scale ww1 aircraft and where better to start than the Red Barons Fokker Dr1 tri plane. So I have acquired such a kit made by revell. Up until now I've always built 1/72 scale ww2 aircraft and always been airfix kits...and I always begin my kits by painting the pilot...so imagine my horror on opening the revell box to find no pilot... any suggestions on where I could source my Manfred from??? Also as I'm hopefully going to be building more ww1 fighters could someone tell me is it common practice for ww1 planes at 1/72 to come pilotless Kev.
  3. Thanks for the info that the two colours are the same Chris. I'm going to stick to my humbrol paints tho. I'm taking a short break from this build now as I've heard through the grapevine that santa is bringing me some headmounted magnifiers to help me with detailed work...so I'll wait before doing anymore....plenty 1/72 aircraft to keep me out of mischief
  4. Can anyone recommend a colour for the transom detail? The photos I've looked at online all seem to show a deeper, richer shade than the pale yellow used elsewhere on the ship. I'm using humbrol enamels and have already tried 'trainer yellow' (no.24) but it was too bright in my opinion so I scrubbed it off. I've gone and bought a tin of 'insignia yellow' (no.154) which has a deeper tinge... but painting such fine detail is painstaking work and I don't want to scrub off a second time so I'm appealing to anyone who has been through this for some suggestions, or am I mistaken and should stick to the same yellow as used on the rest of the hull...thanks in advance Kevin
  5. The hull is now being joined...and once again I've managed to 'pop' a pair gun barrels and a full canon 😠. I'm finding these canons to be a bloody nuisance...a real weak spot
  6. I'm considering doing just that but not to save effort, just for a different look on each side
  7. I used to live at the foot of Bidston Hill....the topographical feature not the ship😉 I had no idea there was a ship called Bidston Hill...live n learn I guess
  8. Anyone owning this kit is most likely aware of some of the moulding issues. The one I'm dealing with today is oversized holes that are supposed to take the cannons I considered using filler to sort this out but thought it would be too difficult to sand so I came up with this solution... I took a piece of sprue from my collection and sanded it down to the diameter of the oversized hole and then drilled a hole into it, I was fortunate in that my largest mini drill bit is just the right size to take the cannon I then shortend the piece making a plug glued it into place so I am left with a socket for the cannon to be fixed into...problem sorted😊
  9. The main deck now has 2 coats of paint...I hate trying to get a good finish when brush painting a relatively large open area but the 3rd coat should provide a better finish. For the colour of the decks I did try the suggested humbrol oak no.71 but I wasn't over keen on the look so opted instead for humbrol light stone no.121. Hopefully I made the right choice.
  10. Both decks now in place. I was really worried about the supports not being strong enough and possibly getting broken or not lining up and although not lining up 100% perfectly with just a little bit of tweaking they're not too bad at all really. I did however manage to 'pop' 4 cannon barrels so they need re glueing...so far things seem to be going together reasonably well
  11. The lower gun deck going in. The hull sections are not yet cemented but are just clamped together and rather than me trying to hold everything together I thought I would try using strategically placed zip ties. The deck has been cemented in place on the starboard side and a toothpick had to be used as a prop as the deck insisted on dropping above the portside entry way for some reason. Hopefully it's not going to spring apart when I cut the ties tomorrow.
  12. Ok thanks for the tip...that sounds like a plan
  13. I'm approaching quite a decision now. I've near enough completed the lower gun deck and will be starting the main deck after that and I have 3 questions 1...do I cement the hull before fixing the decks in place? 2...the instructions for some reason lead me into thinking the decks are joined together before going into the hull...is this correct or do they go in individually? 3...if the decks go in individually how the hell do I get those little support poles to line up and join the two decks? I'd really appreciate any advice on these matters....this next step could be the make or break of this model as I don't want it to resemble a botch job
  14. Thanks for the suggestion foxy...I'm assuming you refer to the depressions at the top of the 2 rounded doors?
  15. Have had a go at a bit of painting...beak head bulkhead. The blue used was humbrol french blue but it's a gloss finish which I don't want so I've toned it down with a lick of matt varnish, i've also touched up the bit of 'wobbly' blue paint