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bluriusz

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bluriusz last won the day on June 24 2014

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  1. Thanks! I believe the problem is not enough adhesive. The tiny decals, including stencils work fine as the surface between the film and "paint" is smaller. With a large printed piece there is more tension when you remove it. Iny second try on the underside, the decal didn't stick properly too. At the first glance it was fine, treated with a lot of Sol over several days. Just to find out that a quarter of the decal is not attached to the surface. I've used Set before and that didn't help much apparently. I've flooded the said part with Set, Sol and also the Revell setting solution, followed by a light treatment of mineral spirits and that seemed to convince the decal to hug the wing. It's a shame because I find the decal print quality very good, but there is clearly a problem, as I'm not the only one to experience trouble with them. Worth mentioning is that just in front of the canopy, there are two small stencils that silvered badly despite following exactly same procedure. Luckily when I decided to remove them, only film got removed. Bart
  2. I haven't seen too many Mustangs in that scheme so one more done by you would be a big added value to the P-51 pool. Regarding the decals - those were definitely the "peelable" decals - irregular film, patch appearance and it worked well with the stencils that are on the same sheet. The nose art was also peeled with no problems. The star and bars were the problem, then also the number on the fuselage. There is also another way to get rid of the film - using mineral spirit apparently but I only found out once I got the decals on. Thank you all for overwhelming amount of good comments and "likes". Much appreciated! Bart
  3. Hi Everyone! I would like to present you with freshly finished lovely kit from Eduard no 82101. Pretty straight forward kit from the box. Few bits and pieces to rescribe and rivet, but not a huge amount of work. I have filled the wing panel lines with a mixture of VMS Black Flexy CA and their Filler Powder. That works great as it is fast drying, non shrinking and easy to sand. Only the area around the guns was filled with Mr Surfacer 500. I have also replaced gun barrels with hypodermic needles which improved the look in my opinion. Drilled the exhaust pipes and filters on the lower nose. The kit provides decals for the tail, but I have decided to mask it and paint it and I'm happy with the result. Painted with Tamiya LP-8 over white and Black Mr. Surfacer. Nose red is a AK Interactive RED. Anti glare painted with Olive Drab. Fuselage has been painted over satin black with Mr.Color Super Fine Silver, where the wings are painted with Tamiya LP-38 Flat Aluminium. Weathered with Abteilung's oils and some panel washes from AK. Then everything sealed with satin on the wings and the rest of the coloured parts, and gloss on the fuselage, bare metal surface. I had a massive disaster during the build. Once I painted the tail and nose, I have followed an advice from more experienced friends from the model club, to use LP-11 as the aluminium colour, but that for some reason turned out not nice, so I covered it with Extreme Metal Polished Aluminium which was much better. Then I sealed it with Gauzy Agent pre decaling. This is where I think it went wrong. Well not from the start. Stencils were great, film was easy to remove and I was absolutely amazed with the result. The problem started with the larger decals, where they did not stick properly and despite waiting over 2 days, I still removed the film with part of the decals.. Thanks to club friends for supplying me with their decals from the same kit. I stripped all the paint back to plastic (apart from the nose) and painted it again with the paint mentioned above. This time decals went on better and I also restrained from removing the film. And here we have the result, let me know what you think: Thanks!
  4. Thank you! The scratches on the skirts are made with hobby knife. A bit risky business, but I don't know any other method to get such long and fine vertical scratches. If you are asking about the ones on the ring next to the MG, these are painted with a sponge and refined with a brush. @zigster Nice, I bet it will be good! And the decals will probably be way better than the Tamiya ones (although there are not to many overall anyway). @Andy H @supersonic @Carius @sardaukar @Ilan @Bullbasket @StuartH @FrancisGL @Stef N. @ivan-o Thank you all for the comments!
  5. Hi, I would like to present you my latest build. Pretty nice kit. Well detailed, nice quality (apart from sprue S). Maybe a bit simplified here and there. I have replaced the handles with wire, added chains to smoke dischargers and painted unit number along with a brigade logo using laser cut stencils rather than using decals. Painted with AK Interactive paints. Weathered with a mixture of pigments, oils and enamels. Thanks for your attention! Bart
  6. Thank you! Well, the kit is super detailed, just poor quality when it comes to flash. It looks like the tooling has a lot of miles on the clock, especially when you see that the sprues have been used for like 20 other kits. The upper hull was also warped but that been resolved with some reinforcing inside. Tracks are the worst, can you imagine clearing that flash on a soft rubber? Picture below. Overall it's a nice kit if you are committed to spend tons of time on cleaning parts. Otherwise, now I would go for Meng one.
  7. 1/35 AFV Club - M60A1 IDF Magach 6Bet Finally finished. Long battle but I have managed to cross the finish line. Construction was quite complex and quality of the kit was average (and that is me being generous). Poor rubber tracks replaced with metal ones. Unfortunately these were narrower than the sprockets so I was forced to design and 3d print them to fit the tracks. There are few bits and pieces scratch built. Base done using mixture of VMS diorama mud and AK's products. Then added 3d printed garden chairs and pile of rubble. Most of the add-ons on the scene are from amazing Red Zebra Scale Models. Figures by Meng, postures slightly modified and Hornet heads added to enhance the face expressions. Then few bits added from a AK IDF Equipment set. Overall I'm happy with the result and even more happy to be released from the project which supposed to be just a tank on a plank.. I hope you like it. Thanks for the attention
  8. Thank you. Not sure, they call it V-bust. It looks like 1/6.. Thanks! Skin tone is Mengs Basic Flesh. Camouflage is AK real colours NATO black, green and red. Tan is from Tamiya. Then all treated with oils. Face with Abiteilung flesh set, rest with random oils. Bart.
  9. Hi guys, be gentle, that's my first take on the bust. Painted with acrylics, shaded and highlighted with oils. A bit more work with the uniform than I anticipated, but overall quite fun thing to do and deffo not the last one. Thanks! Bart
  10. Thank everyone for the feedback! Glad you liked it.
  11. Finally done. Miniart 1/35 - Grant MkII plus metal barrel. Painted with MRP. Great kit, although - as Miniart is - over-engineered. Built more as a training ground, for various techniques. But overall I guess it turned out quite all right. Thanks for all comments! Appreciate any tips. Bart.
  12. Thanks! Don't get me wrong, it is still a very nice kit. Nice details on the hull and the turret, nice interior (which I didn't wanted to make), but overall I think I just overhyped too much, Hmm, be careful with wheels if you are not planning the resin ones, be veeeery careful with the instructions, there are missing parts, wrongly labeled etc. Overall rather nice fit, a bit over complicated chassis. I would like to show you the mistakes in the instructions, but I built it like in June and all notes I made are at the moment make no sense:) Good luck and have fun!
  13. Thanks, Usually I use thin guitar string, but just run out so had to use some different material. Those A-A look great though, tempted:)
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