Rob-Taurus aftermarket 1/72 F/A-18D canopy

[Charles H]

1 hour ago, tempestfan said:

You can use PVA glue, it's the film that will hold the part, it's not bonding like styrene to styrene with styrene glue, which bonds the parts by dissolving a small amount of plastic on either part.

 

So, do you mean it's a bond that's strong enough in context, but not as strong as the dissolving-type bond? Which is fine, and so much safer! No friendlier glue than PVA, as long as it is not cold weather. I simply had no idea of the different types of plastic for models. I've only ever had polystyrene. This vacuum-thing tech for replicating plastic model parts is completely new to me; well, I have never bought such before.

[Charles H]

On 12/13/2023 at 9:24 PM, Zephyr91 said:

I liked @stevehnz's description.  Patience is key.  If I could add a couple of thoughts

1.  You could mask the bits you wish to keep pristine and avoid any scratches due to needle or knife slipping.  They shouldn't slip if you are careful and don't force things, but always good to have some insurance.  And

2. Is there enough spare plastic on the surround of the canopy on which you could practice a little?  You might be able to just get a feel for the material and how it yields?

 

I shall absolutely follow this very wise advice, re; masking/protection. Thank you! The "background" rough plastic seems to completely surround the actual canopy, and the perimeter is frightfully cramped. I'm going to have to do the best I can, slowly and steadily.

 

THANK YOU again, to everyone who has replied to me here. I will tackle it in the next few days (approx); of course this time of year is not very predictable, regarding "spare" time.

 

 

 

[Charles H]

I must apologise for my clumsy "quoting" of posts I'm replying to. I don't understand how to do it properly, sorry - computer-ese things like this are beyond me.

[Charles H]

22 hours ago, stevehnz said:

With the cutting edge away from you. Basically you are just using the point. Using the cutting edge is asking for trouble in my experience, it tends to please itself where to go,  the angle at the back of the cutting edge makes an effective scriber which is what you're doing, deepening the groove started with the needle till the canopy comes away from the base. If you go the scissors route, they need to be good quality pointed nail scissors or seamstress scissors & comfortable to use & control. Using the fine marker I mentioned before makes it easier to see where you're going. Re glues, yes basically just PVA but the ones sold as canopy glues  have a bit more grab & dry quicker too. Easy clean up with a damp cotton bud plus another application helps to fill any little gaps. I use Zap canopy glue, there are others & I think the Krystal Klear type products work too, they are generally PVA glues as well.

Steve.

I am sorry, but I just don't understand. How do you use the actual point, but *not* the cutting edge (which you clearly want to avoid, but I just don't know why)? I am just totally clueless here, sorry. Why is the cutting edge asking for trouble? I thought this is what I'm trying to eventually do(?) Sorry, but now I am freaked out to paralysis mode, uselessly clueless.

 

 

Edited December 15, 2023 by Charles H

[stevehnz]

No worries, I'm sure we can get you there. I'm assuming now you have an craft knife after telling me about your excell handle. Hold this vertically point down with the cutting edge toward you. Now, still keeping it vertical spin it 180 degrees around the point. Now you no longer have a cutting edge toward you but the back of the blade which has a V shaped point with right angled edges. Great for scribing a groove into soft material like plastic. If we were going to describe panel lines, we'd use some tape to guide us but in this case we have the groove the needle has made after several passes in the angle between the canopy & the base. The backwards blade is good to continue the process until it goes though the plastic. Watch your fingers.

Steve 

[Charles H]

1 hour ago, stevehnz said:

No worries, I'm sure we can get you there. I'm assuming now you have an craft knife after telling me about your excell handle. Hold this vertically point down with the cutting edge toward you. Now, still keeping it vertical spin it 180 degrees around the point. Now you no longer have a cutting edge toward you but the back of the blade which has a V shaped point with right angled edges. Great for scribing a groove into soft material like plastic. If we were going to describe panel lines, we'd use some tape to guide us but in this case we have the groove the needle has made after several passes in the angle between the canopy & the base. The backwards blade is good to continue the process until it goes though the plastic. Watch your fingers.

Steve 

I'm digging myself into a horrible hole here, sorry. I still don't understand what you mean. Is the sharp side of the blade *upwards*, rather than downwards, so the [blunt] back of the blade actually does the work? "Backwards" blade- sorry (don't know what you mean), and I simply don't understand what you mean about the groove and the needle, or a V shaped point with right angled edges. Are you saying to do everything with the back of the blade, and not the sharp surface?

 

I obviously need help from Stone Age basics. My comprehension is disastrous.

Edited December 15, 2023 by Charles H

[PLC1966]

1 hour ago, Charles H said:

I'm digging myself into a horrible hole here, sorry. I still don't understand what you mean. Is the sharp side of the blade *upwards*, rather than downwards, so the [blunt] back of the blade actually does the work? "Backwards" blade- sorry (don't know what you mean), and I simply don't understand what you mean about the groove and the needle, or a V shaped point with right angled edges. Are you saying to do everything with the back of the blade, and not the sharp surface?

 

I obviously need help from Stone Age basics. My comprehension is disastrous.

Yes.  'sharp' edge pointing in the Air, the 'blunt' edge is run along the plastic where the Canopy meets plastic surround.  

 

What Stevehnz is also saying is you lift the handle of the knife at an angle,  so you go around the base of the Canopy with the blunt side of the point.

 

As for glue.  Yep, PVA will do for sticking the Canopy onto the model.

[stevehnz]

6 hours ago, Charles H said:

Is the sharp side of the blade *upwards*, rather than downwards, so the [blunt] back of the blade actually does the work? Are you saying to do everything with the back of the blade, and not the sharp surface?

Yes, basically exactly that. You'll probably be holding the knife a bit like you'd hold a pen but with the cutting edge away from you, but drawing the knife toward you. See if you can find a small blister pack of something, 4 AA batteries or similar & try cutting the blister off the base, mark the angle, scribe with a pin/needle & then continue with the reversed knife. Better to sacrifice a blister pack to experimentation than your canopy.

Steve.

[Charles H]

Thank you, Steve and PLC1966! I shall be carefully getting on with it tonight.

[Charles H]

... and I wake up today feeling nauseous, achy and shivery. *Wonderful*! No canopy for me tonight. 

[stevehnz]

Damn, I hope it is something you can throw off quickly Charles. Take care.

Steve.

[Charles H]

Wishing all Britmodellers a Merry Christmas, and all the best for the New Year. THANK YOU all, for your replies in this thread, especially stevehnz, who surely has the patience of a saint! I've indeed practiced with scrap, and also using your excellent suggestion of using a battery blister pack. I shall finally tackle the canopy after Christmas, when things are less hectic than now, but the practice has primed me well!

 

Thanks, Steve - I would not wish the gastro, etc I got a couple of weeks ago on anyone! UGH!!

 

cheers!

 

Charles

[stevehnz]

Merry Christmas to you & yours too Charles, the sun has just gone down on ours & my digestion is catching up with my gluttony & I'm now feeling at peace with things. 😊

I don't know about patience of a Saint, Mrs Hnz might disagree with that.🤔

Good that your gastro bout is behind you.  

All the best 

Steve.

 

[Charles H]

I've finally separated the PVC vacuum-formed canopy from its backing. Thank you everyone for advice given to me above. The needle, held in a pin vice, indeed made an excellent start to the perimeter, and a #3 scalpel blade cut through the row of holes fairly quickly. Then it was sand, sand, sand with ever finer grades of sanding sticks. Canopy now fits properly, although I had to eventually sacrifice the 'hinges' on the back edge, as they were just too hard for me to cope with. I'll have to fill these (I guess with Tamiya Basic putty), after I glue the canopy on.

 

Before I glue it on, the local hobby shop here have suggested I spray the canopy with acrylic clear coat (as sold in auto shops) to further hide the inevitable scuffy marks I accidentally managed to make on it. I'm pretty satisfied I've polished them out to the best of my ability. I sprayed some oil-based clear coat I already had on scrap backing, with no apparent positive effect (but no damage, either). Please, any opinions here... and if it is a good idea (whether with acrylic or oil-based clear coat), can I then paint the canopy frames over the top, using oil-based primer and enamel topcoats?

 

I didn't know that this canopy is made of PVC, not styrene, or what difference it makes? Apart from being less brittle!

 

cheers,

 

Charles