Monty Python

Starting to convert from enamels to acrylics due to my man cave now being in the loft and don't want the smell of cellulose thinners in the house. As MDC is only a few miles away from where I live, I'm trying Gunze paints. So far, I'm more than happy with the way they spray and the finish. My problem is when I mask off to spray a second colour, I've had the masking tape lift the first colour off a couple of times. The paint has been mixed at a 50% to 50% mix and I've tried Mr Colour thinners, IPA and distilled water and had the same result with whatever has been used. The paint was left on approx 48 hrs before the masking tape was put on. All parts that have been sprayed, had a coat of Alclad primer applied first. Any tips or help would be most welcome.

Just starting to convert from enamel paint to Gunze acrylic. I was wondering if microsol/set can be applied directly onto to the gloss paint or does it need a sealing coat first. TIA

I've gone back to the photo, it's the one where it's in front of the silver MJ250 UF-Q. Looking closely at it, the port leading edge light looks as though it's not flush to the surface as a clipped wing would be.

Looking at the Xtradecals for the Spitfire Mk.IXc, MJ532 UF-G 601 sq, they have it as clipped wing. Have seen a photo of the same aircraft on another site and although not very clear, it does seem to have normal tips. Anybody help out with one. TIA

Was the radiator recessed area of the wing the same colour as the upper/lower surfaces or were they int grey/green. Cheers Chris

Airplane. I have the full set, in binders, up in the man cave. They still come in handy at times.

This is not a question but an odd observation. Sprayed a couple of coats of WEM enamels on some parts. After giving them 48 hours to dry, I then let them have a couple of coats of Alclad flat coat. Again, left for 48 hours. Not happy at all with the finish so, knowing that a soak in neat bleach will remove the paint but not the primer, let them soak overnight. I know the Alclad is not an enamel but I thought it's worth a try. Took the parts out of the bleach last night and gave them a wash in soapy water. No Paint has been removed, but the finish is now absolutely spot on. Weird or not?. Chris

Just placed an order with them for the Typhoon. This will be my birthday pressie from the wife. I don't know what she'll say when she finds out what she's bought me.

A very good mate of mine who passed away last year served as ground crew on 617sq and later on, on 627sq, at Woodhall Spa. Whilst with 617sq, they were doing tests with the Lancs to see if the runway was long enough to allow the grand slams to be used from there. Obviously ballast weights were used instead of the bombs themselves. Because regular crews were not needed for the trials, ground crews were used to make the numbers up, as the flights were mostly just circuits. My mate was on one of the very first trial flights and on this flight the aircraft only just lifted off in time to clear the tree line, or so they thought. It turned out they clipped the trees with the undercarriage. They retracted ok but would not come down again. They had to lower the u/c by hand and as he said, 'muggins here had to do most of the donkey work'. For some reason he wasn't all that keen to do anymore trial flights.

Bought this one off Nick Belbin at Telford yesterday. Thought I'd make a start on it straight away. First couple of shots are whats in the box, although don't know why but I've left a sprue out. Second two are the pilot and navigator's office. Going away from the instruction sequence, I've fitted the nose halves and also the camera bay clear part. The nose halves required a bit of fettling to get an acceptable fit although they still need a bit of filler. I've backed the joint with a strip of plasticard to help with alignment and also filling. Thats all for now as I'm waiting for the primer to dry so as to throw some paint into the offices. Constructive criticism welcome. Chris

Thanks for that. I'll have to get measuring the Xtrakit offering.

Just got hold of the 1:72 scale, Xtrakit Canberra PR.9 and toying with dropping the flaps on it. This is where the Airfix part of the question comes in. Is there anybody out there who could measure the Airfix kit flaps up for me. This is so as I have a rough idea if the CMK offerings, which are done for the Airfix PR.9, will come close to fitting the Xtrakit. I know they shouldn't be a mile of difference but just want to make sure before parting with any beer tokens. TIA

According to my info ND396 was on the books of 550sq and failed to return from a raid on 31 Jan 1944 W4842 ZN-H was on the books of 106sq and came down at Lakerpolder in Kagerplassen near Warmond in Holland whilst on a raid to Essen. Date was 28 May 1943

LMS has sold out of Modelstrip which I usually use for stripping enamel paint of models. They suggested that I try caustic soda. Having never used it before, I'm looking for answers to a couple of questions. 1) What is the prefered amount of water to add to the soda? 2) How long to soak the parts? 3) Will it attack the primer, Mr Surfacer 1000? TIA Chris

Starting to build a high back Mk.XVIe using the Tamiya 1:32 scale kit. The aircraft modelled will be TB890 ZF-M of 308sq towards the end of the war. I have found pictures of the squadron at the right time and noticed a couple things that I want to check out. Here goes. 1) Although not very clear, the elevators seem to be the 'early' type having no balance horns. Is it possible that a Mk.XVI had these elevators. 2) The kit gives decals to be applied to the propellers close to the bottom of the blades. Can't ever recall seeing these on anything other than modern rebuilt aircraft. Again, although not very clear, the 308sq photos don't appear to show these markings. TIA Chris

Not so much as flying but sitting on my fence staring straight at me this afternoon was a female sparrowhawk. Only about 20 feet between us. Absolutely gorgeous

Have taken the plunge and tried Mr Surfacer 1000 for the first time, I usually use Alclad primer. Result was excellent after thinning with 2 parts celulose thinners to 1 part Mr Surfacer. Only problem was that the airbrush kept clogging up. Interested to hear what is the recomended retarder to use. TIA

The black, white, yellow trick is one to try. I have always done the yellow first then masked off for the black.

Quick question for anybody who has built any of the Tamiya 1:32 scale Spitfire's. Toying with the idea of using the prop tip decals just to save time instead of masking and spraying. Do the decals work ok over the black props or does any colour show through? TIA Chris

I know that if you put super glued parts in the freezer for a while, then it may be possible to break the joint. Does this method work with other glues? I'm thinking of Revell Contacta. TIA

I want one. I want one. I want one. Are you listening Santa.

Regarding the wheels. Have had a look at the colour profile prints of SAAF Spitfires found on a web site and they all show 5 spoke wheels. This maybe a mistake done by the artist so I will have to try and dig deeper on this. Also profile shows fish tail exhausts.

Yes, after a further look on the web, I did find out that it was in fact a low back Mk.IXe and not a Mk.XVIe. That should make little difference though. Tamiya 1/32 scale Mk.XVIe kit being used.

Can only find colour profile prints and they show 5 spoke wheels

Thanks for the help. A/c modelled late 1950 as it suffered CAT1 damage on 16th March 1951 due to engine faliure on take off. Chris