CFster

Yep. It’s the moisture in the air that causes CA to polymerize.

I wonder how you arrived at this conclusion.

Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and any AS-186 style compressor you can find on Amazon with a tank. It’ll be the last airbrush you need to buy.

When I say “Lacquer Thinner Retarder Type” I’m talking about their “slow” lacquer thinner, not a separate retarder. So, 5ml of X-22 and 10ml of thinner. If you’re going to use X-20A to thin instead of lacquer thinner then go 1 to 1 (5ml and 5ml).

1:1 at least. But you’ll get the best results utilizing a lacquer thinner like Tamiya Lacquer Thinner Retarder Type or Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. Thin 2:1 to 3:1 (thinner:paint). I mean, Tamiya is a solvent based paint so you’re already halfway to a lacquer anyway…

Silvering comes from improper decal setting techniques, usually from letting the decal soak too long in the water beforehand which can wash all the adhesive off. Doesn't even have to be glossy paint - just a reasonably smooth surface if you’re using the right decal softening solutions above and below, and you walk away allowing them to work.

There’s no proof gloss before decals prevents silvering.

Thanks again! Thanks

Thanks for these. Do you happen to know what size the stars and bars were on the wings and fuselage?

Thanks, but Bonnie’s bands were different than invasion stripes.

I’m building Bonnie and I understand the stripes aren’t equally spaced, and I’m not sure where they’re supposed to start and stop. is there a resource? Measurements? Thanks

These are different mixes from what you listed here. Sorry I just found that thread - I wouldn’t have bugged you. Is this new mix revised?

Thanks. I don’t own XF10 or 58, so I’m going to grab some tomorrow. Always looking for an excuse to buy more bottles. I’ll spray some spoons…

Thanks for this Casey. By any chance do you have a Tamiya mix handy for: ANA613 Olive Drab Thanks

Thanks. So, it appears both Eduard and Arma Hobby got this incorrect in their instructions.

Thanks for the reply. IPMS Stockholm says: “General Motors-produced FM-1 and FM-2s had a standardised interior finish of Interior Green from the inside of the cowling all the way back, including the undercarriage struts.” Which doesn’t make sense to me. I’m just wondering if these colors are different being a lend-lease aircraft.

I have some questions regarding correct colors for this particular aircraft. What is the inside cowling color supposed to be in this aircraft? I don’t believe Tamiya who says it’s supposed to be white. I think it’s a shade of grey or natural metal. What color is the lower landing gear linkage? Black, or white? Are the wheel “reliefs” in the lower hull supposed to be white or the underside color? Tamiya has its own color names for the camo: AS-4 Gray Violet (Luftwaffe) and AS-9 Dark Green. Are they in fact Extra Dark Sea Grey and Dark Slate Grey? Thanks in advance for any help. - Colin

Unless used correctly they can damage parts and wipe out seals.

I hate when they do this. Not just changing colors, but sometimes outright reformulations without telling anyone, and it seems most paint companies do it.

Casey, are these measurements taken using the 23ml or 10ml bottles? I’m hearing a nasty rumour about Tamiya changing the colors in the smaller bottles.

Thank you

Thanks. Underside is the same way? Underside color?

I know this is the color for the wheel wells but how about if I’m building a flaps down version? Is the exposed area inside the wings painted or is bare metal? How about the area of the flap that is normally folded into the wing? Is that painted? Thanks.

I’d say the fastest growing segment of modelers are buying Chinese brushes like Gaahleris or Masters or NEOECOs for next to nothing, and even the cheapest ones have PTFE needle seals. I used to mod on r/airbrush. It was rare that some kid spraying miniatures or Warhammer would come in with a 30 year old HP-C somebody gave him. The most popular paint in the average hobby shop these days? I’d say Tamiya or Vallejo. At least here in the states. On that Tamiya rack is Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner, which is 50% acetone and 50% butyl acetate. Same with Mr. Tool Cleaner. I agree the old style Microns had unsurpassed trigger feel with Buna-n packing seals. As a matter of fact DaveG just got a shipment in of solvent resistant o-rings for people who want to retrofit their brushes to the old style.

Chances are if someone is using a 20 year old brush they know what they’ve got.