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Anthony Kesterton

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Posts posted by Anthony Kesterton

  1. I would like to join this group build please (might even finish something this time).  Options include Angolan Migs, SAAF F1 or III's, some SADF armour or Angolan tanks.  Not quite decided yet but generally looking at the Angolan war period.

    • Like 3
  2. 1 hour ago, armored76 said:

    I've read about the "eco" resin, too but I think that despite the fact that the starting material might be less dangerous, the additives that turn the oils into a resin make up the lions part of toxic materials. So, yes, these are probably less harmful but still a way far from being safe.

    Again, this is just my gut feeling so please feel free to teach me better!

    Ah - that is a good point.  I have no experience with either material at the moment - but been trying to read up as much as I can.

     

    anthony

    • Like 1
  3. On 8/18/2020 at 10:29 AM, LostCosmonauts said:

    This kind of thing?

     

    https://www.shapeways.com/product/3P9A8M3W4/1-16-t55-set-of-16-hollow-position-lights

     

    (albeit 3x smaller and without the cavity for the LEDs)

    I was curious about these and contacted Luis - the person who makes the T55 positioning lights.  He created a version for 1/48 and I am expecting some in the post shortly - will report back here.

     

    anthony

  4. 23 minutes ago, modelldoc said:

    Nice links.  Perhaps I should have waited and tried to get this version (the comments in one talks about the B3M version as a "competition" version).  Anyway - not seen a source for this one anywhere, even eBay does not have them

     

  5. Many thanks for all the suggestions and advice.  I found some nice pictures of Angolan T-72's from the annual tank competition in Russia on Getty Images, and these are flagged as T-72 B3 with some very unusual colour schemes. Found a B3 Modelcollect kit on eBay (eventually), so that should be on its way soon(ish).

     

    (see https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/photos/angola-t-72?mediatype=photography&phrase=angola T-72&sort=best)

     

    All thanks to @Julien who kindly donated an excellent metal barrel.

    • Like 1
  6. On 7/7/2020 at 2:13 AM, FlyingBagpipe said:

    Hi

     

    Anybody got any idea where to source decent resin figures Between 1/12 and 1/6 scale please? 
    Google has a habit of throwing up a load of nonsense. 
     

    Looking for any military stuff from Ww1 to present day

     

    TIA

    A bit of a left field idea - there are excellent busts available in this scale - you may be able to combine the pose-able figure with a suitable head from a resin cast.  Sorry, probably not what you are looking for, just an idea.

    • Like 2
  7. Ordered the normal membership - also picked free postage and a box arrived.  Feel a bit bad as I thought it would be an envelope, not a big box. Happy to support Airfix, and will also cover cost of membership with Flying Hours redeemed.  Also, Airfix where honouring Flying Club redemption while the Club was in limbo, so felt I owed them for that.

  8. 4 minutes ago, gingerbob said:

    Engine running on the ground, I'd say open- but that's not a Mustang-specific observation.  You can undoubtedly find some YouTube videos of Warbird Mustangs taxiing for take-off, which will both answer (?) the question and give you more inspiration!

    Many thanks for the advice @gingerbob - will hunt down some videos and see what they show but the logic of open radiators when you don't have cruising speed air keeping the engine cool makes sense.

  9. After seeing some excellent builds on the recent Group Build of Mustangs, I decided to build an Airfix P-51D (1/72) as flown by the South African Air Force in Korea. 

     

    I have a question about the radiator outlet towards the rear of the aircraft.  I have learnt this was automatically opened and closed - I assume regulated by the engine temperature. I have a picture of one of these aircraft just about to taxi out with two ground crew pulling away the chocks, and thought that would make a great display setting.  Unfortunately, with the picture angle, you can't see if the radiator outlet is up or down. 

     

    I was wondering the the outlet would be open or closed at this point.

     

    I suspect the answer will be "it depends" and it really does not matter what I do in the end - but was curious to know if anyone here had any suggestions.

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