Anthony Kesterton

Great build. I also like the jig/stand on the last photo - did you build that too?

Great ideas here - thank you for showing us your work.

Fantastic film and great to see your 3D printing work. Getting flat/straight surfaces seems to be quite difficult so watching this with interest!

I thought it was an interesting series with lots of plot twists. Interesting to see the comments here about accuracy and how things might be a bit different in real life but then again, I would not expect to see anything too close to the reality on a TV programme. The nice twist is seeing the detective operating on the submarine where most of the resources she might have when on land where unavailable.

I should have some Halfords primer kicking around here too - will try that next if the Tamiya does not stay on. I was surprised how easily the Tamiya primer came off when I had to wash the parts after priming (they got a bit dusty). It might be poor curing of the resin or surface grease/stuff.

Thanks, will try that. I also had another go after washing the resin part a lot more and leaving it to cure for a lot longer. Will see how it goes.

There is a free 3D printer file version of this here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904044 Could be fun to make

Late to the topic. I enjoy watching the Olympics (highlights), mainly because of the sheer variety of sports, including many you don't normally see. What got me more interested in the Olympics was London 2012, as I was lucky enough to work as a volunteer in the International Media Centre (on the IT side). The sheer scale of the event, and how well it was organised was very impressive and interesting to be part of.

Definitely contact Elegoo. The LED generates the UV and the LCD allows/blocks the UV light.

Apologies Les - I missed your question. I am only using water- washable resin so can’t comment on the differences.

I bought a 3D print of the Dragon space capsule recently (before I bought my printer), washed it carefully then primed with Tamiya fine primer from a can. After doing some sanding and filling, I washed again in warm water with some washing up liquid. To my horror, all the primer came off with some light rubbing with a brush. The 3D part is a resin SLA printed part. Any recommendations on primer for these kinds of printed parts?

There are two stations available: a cure-only or a wash and cure. If you use water-washable resin, the curing station is not supposed to be used with water for the wash part. Still not sure why but those are the instructions. A plastic pickle drainer tub will do the job for washing, or just use the container that is supplied with the wash and cure unit but without the agitator installed. I ended up buying the wash and cure station, and it is about the same size as the printer, and very simple to use. anthony

Glass files seem to be a thing in the nail industry too - how do these items compare to these Meng/DSPIAE versions?

That looks like a nice colour - thank you! And I even have a bottle of it.

Hi I am part of the Africa GB and a bit stumped on the colour of the Angolan T-55's used in the "South African Border War" that ended in the late 80's. I believe the tanks came from Cuba - and kept their original colours - a Dark Green. Can anyone confirm this (and any suggestions on the Vallejo colour I could use). This will be the starting point as I hope to do a bit of weathering. I am using the new(ish) Tamiya 1/48th kit which is a really nice build so far. I m also interested in tank commander uniform colours. So far I have seen references to Khaki or Olive Drab. From some of the photos - the uniforms look like a solid colour, not the two/three tone camo. of the regular soldiers. Any suggestions or pointers gratefully received. thanks anthony