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Anthony Kesterton

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Everything posted by Anthony Kesterton

  1. I should have some Halfords primer kicking around here too - will try that next if the Tamiya does not stay on. I was surprised how easily the Tamiya primer came off when I had to wash the parts after priming (they got a bit dusty). It might be poor curing of the resin or surface grease/stuff.
  2. Thanks, will try that. I also had another go after washing the resin part a lot more and leaving it to cure for a lot longer. Will see how it goes.
  3. There is a free 3D printer file version of this here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904044 Could be fun to make
  4. Late to the topic. I enjoy watching the Olympics (highlights), mainly because of the sheer variety of sports, including many you don't normally see. What got me more interested in the Olympics was London 2012, as I was lucky enough to work as a volunteer in the International Media Centre (on the IT side). The sheer scale of the event, and how well it was organised was very impressive and interesting to be part of.
  5. Definitely contact Elegoo. The LED generates the UV and the LCD allows/blocks the UV light.
  6. Apologies Les - I missed your question. I am only using water- washable resin so can’t comment on the differences.
  7. I bought a 3D print of the Dragon space capsule recently (before I bought my printer), washed it carefully then primed with Tamiya fine primer from a can. After doing some sanding and filling, I washed again in warm water with some washing up liquid. To my horror, all the primer came off with some light rubbing with a brush. The 3D part is a resin SLA printed part. Any recommendations on primer for these kinds of printed parts?
  8. There are two stations available: a cure-only or a wash and cure. If you use water-washable resin, the curing station is not supposed to be used with water for the wash part. Still not sure why but those are the instructions. A plastic pickle drainer tub will do the job for washing, or just use the container that is supplied with the wash and cure unit but without the agitator installed. I ended up buying the wash and cure station, and it is about the same size as the printer, and very simple to use. anthony
  9. Glass files seem to be a thing in the nail industry too - how do these items compare to these Meng/DSPIAE versions?
  10. That looks like a nice colour - thank you! And I even have a bottle of it.
  11. Hi I am part of the Africa GB and a bit stumped on the colour of the Angolan T-55's used in the "South African Border War" that ended in the late 80's. I believe the tanks came from Cuba - and kept their original colours - a Dark Green. Can anyone confirm this (and any suggestions on the Vallejo colour I could use). This will be the starting point as I hope to do a bit of weathering. I am using the new(ish) Tamiya 1/48th kit which is a really nice build so far. I m also interested in tank commander uniform colours. So far I have seen references to Khaki or Olive Drab. From some of the photos - the uniforms look like a solid colour, not the two/three tone camo. of the regular soldiers. Any suggestions or pointers gratefully received. thanks anthony
  12. Priming - trying Ultimate Primer (Grey) and it seems to work well through my ancient Badger 150 airbrush. Keep the wheels separate for the moment. And I need some filler on the fuel tanks (similar problem on the barrel)
  13. Life (well, work) got in the way of my T-55, but will carry on very slowly. I am looking for hints on the colour for the figure (Cuban or Angolan tank commander - olive drab or khaki perhaps)- hard to find any definitive colour suggestions. I primed a lot of the model (photos to follow) - and slightly stumped on the colour. Dark Green or Olive Green are the options looking at various sources. Trust me to find an obscure subject
  14. Hi Les A suggestion for your IPA problem - I am also starting out on 3D printing but started with water washable resin. No IPA required, but the cost is a little higher. AnyCubic sell this as part of their resin products. anthony
  15. Yes Please! I have a few N gauge items that could do with soldering, so started looking at low-temp. solder when I started reading this post. Excellent idea for a diorama. [And now read more of the thread and see you have already done this - apologies] regards anthony
  16. I just received an email from Fine Scale Modeller announcing an auction of the assets of the company. In case anyone wants to see the details - this is the link to the auction house and the sale details: https://www.rosensystems.com/upcoming-auctions/1675 I missed this thread and other messages about the store. I used to order items from them to collect while in the US for work, and of course I have a tube of Green Stuff and the finer White Stuff filler. Sad to see such a well-known shop go. I saw Caboose Hobbies (another famous US model train store based on the outskirts of Denver) also closed recently.
  17. Fascinating. It never occurred to me that the distributors check each bottle before they ship them to stockists...you learn something new every day. I would expect some sort of random batch testing when they get a shipment in but not every bottle.
  18. This is a masterclass on weathering, and building these Star Wars kits. Always admired your builds, but this one is particularly good. I had also never heard of rivnuts before - very useful. regards anthony
  19. Exactly! There are two openings in the turret that have small enclosures built around them - I just randomly stuck the first one on, and then noticed the careful instructions on the orientation that I missed. Well - a 50/50 chance I did it right on the first one. Was ok on the second one (I think) Similarly - the figure has some keyed blobs so you glue the arm on the body correctly. I bought one of the 1/48 Tamiya Shermans too - looking forward to build that at some point. I have a very old 1/35th scale Panzer Kampfwagen II Asuf F/G part number 35009/1200 (copyright 1971!!). Will be interesting to compare these builds. A bit nervous about the tracks - but will put my faith in Tamiya
  20. Right - some progress over the weekend with the bits and pieces on the upper part of the hull, and bits of the turret stuck together. Been trying out some very old Humbrol Liquid Poly or Tamiya Cement (the white top). Both are quite viscous - and don't evaporate completely so leave a bit of residue. Found my bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin and will use that in future where I have a visible glued item. Will see what happens when I prime the whole thing. That tiny part pointed to by the pencil is used to secure the hatch on the turret. The hatch lid can then be moved - which is useful as the figure in the kit has his hand on the top of the hatch. I have glued the body and one arm together (the one holding the hatch lid). Next challenge is to find the right approach to glue the hinge without locking the hinge mechanism. Extra thin would just run right around the whole thing with the capillary action. One option is to dap some glue on the turret itself, wait a while then place the hinge+hatch. Alternatively, try a temp. dab of PVA just to get the angle right - then do a final glue into position with something stronger later. My inexperience with building kits showing through here but all good fun to experiment (in "public" here).
  21. Lots of progress over the last week or so - apologies for not posting as these stages where completed. First step was lots of wheels, and the lower half of the hull. The parts of the wheels are rather shall - quite hard to clean up the parts when they are this small. I am keeping a lot of the wheels separate as they need the tires painted. And I have the posted image size sorted now (I hope). Put the top of the hull on the base but not attached it yet. The wheels needs to be added but they need painting first More photos tomorrow. I meant to add, I have heard people comment that (some) Tamiya kits just fall together, very good fit, etc. This is definitely one of those kits. Some very clever engineering to make sure you don't (hopefully) get parts the wrong way, etc. It's a good idea to study the instructions carefully as the notes are often really important clues as to orientation of the parts. It's also quite fun to build an AFV for a change.
  22. And some photos of the kit, testing the image size options as the original images are large!
  23. That resin looks really good. Is the Italeri kit using the old ESCI moulds, with some new parts? I have the Esci Mirage F1 kit hidden away for a future build.
  24. A bit late to the party - but my first attempt at a group build where I have actually had a bit of time to stick some plastic together. I am building the excellent Tamiya 1/48 scale kit of the T-55, OOTB with the Star Decals 48B1003 set. I want to represent the Angolan tanks used during the "Bush War" in the 70's and 80's. Depending on time, I hope to put this on a suitable base to represent the type of terrain found in Angola. I have been reading up on the conflict using the Africa@War series of books, specifically the No 34: War of Intervention in Angola, Vol2. There is a nice colour view of the T-55, and a few photos. I am also using a lot of Google image searches to see if there are any pictures of T-55's. Found a few pictures of abandoned or captured tanks and not many others. I'm interested in the configurations of these tanks and what kind of things where carried on the tanks in terms of additional kit. That is where more photos would be really useful. One reference I found suggested that a long tube on the right of the turret was only put on Soviet versions of the tank, and it appears most of the T-55's where from Cuba, or even other Eastern Bloc countries. I have not seen any photos with this tube on - so assuming it is correct to leave it off. What has struck home is the ubiquity of mobile phone cameras and really cheap digital cameras today. That will change the way we can research more recent conflicts vs these times (70's and 80's). Will add photos once I get them uploaded and linked back to a future post. anthony
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