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Tony Andrews

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  1. Looking at entry level printers, the Photon build plate has a ball joint to allow angular adjustment but has no Z-axis play. Therefore you have to drive the Z axis gently to the desired position, tighten the ball joint and then set this position as zero on the controller. The Mars has a sprung loaded joint which means it can allow for variations in the Z axis and you just have to loosen the bolts, set the controller to go to home, push down to help the springs align the plate, and tighten the bolts. The Mars 2 is similar to the Mars although the instructions now suggest making smal
  2. If you haven't already, it may be useful to look at components, assemblies and joints. Assemblies break a project into manageable elements (but all within one file). For a locomotive chassis one could create separate components for a frame, axle box, axle, wheel, connecting rod, etc. Once designed these components can then be readily reproduced and connected together using joints to form an assembly - e.g. two sides of the frames could be rigidly connected and axle boxes could be rigidly positioned in slots in the frames. Next wheels could be attached to the ends of axles which are then positi
  3. Expanding from the above to a less "Tonka-like" tyre that is quite quick to create and looks OK at scale, you can create essentially two sketches. One is a cross-section of the tyre/wheel that will be revolved around the axis. This needs two profiles - one to define the overall cross-sectional shape and another of the cross-section at the bottom of the treads. These two profiles can be revolved to give two separate bodies, "inside" and "outside", forming the wheel+inside part of the tyre and a "slick" tread respectively. The second sketch can be drawn normal to the first and contains the trea
  4. If you just want to put slots in the flat surface then the easiest way is to put a sketch on that surface and then extrude into the surface, which looks like what has already been done for the recesses for the blast deflectors. If you have simple straight lines then drawing rectangles is probably easiest with the width of the rectangles set to the groove width, e.g. 0.2-0.3mm. Any less will almost certainly not show up in the print - 0.2mm is only about 4 pixels . If the pattern is more complex then it is probably best to draw the shape as a line then offset +/- by half
  5. I don't proclaim much expertise but here's a few options. None are very pretty and all have limitations. 1: Emboss. Only if the surface of the body is not too complicated (2D curves extruded are probably OK, 3D curvature probably not OK). Create a sketch and draw some long thin rectangles with the width you want. The positioning can be adjusted during the emboss process so the rectangles don't have to be aligned exactly right. Close the sketch and select EMBOSS. Pick the rectangles on the sketch and the face on the body then DEBOSS and enter the depth of the panel lines. Bi
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