487 Squadron

Moved to 'Ready for Inspection'...

I don't know why I can't post from photobucket / use whatever file extension I'm not allowed to use, but I'm afraid I'm not going to waste any more time trying to work it out. See you all later, or more likely not.

Here's a link to how I did it: http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=185.0 The prop is simply a leftover from an Eduard Fokker DVII kit.

Internal corrugations from household tinfoil, scratched fuselage framing and fuel pump, Master MG barrels, and correct sized Axial prop, seatbelts, and instruments from the spares box, otherwise OOB Paint scheme that of an airframe discovered at Evere, possibly Marine-Feld-Jagdstaffel 1.

Its not a bad kit, but ignore the painting instructions for the cockpit and refer to the many good images on the net. Also a more serious 'heads up' - after finishing I've found out that the cabane struts are wrong - they are late SPAD XIII style - so cut the very forward ones off either side and replace with a drag wire SPAD VII style. Also, the metal parts of the fuselage should be a darker beige than the CDL rear. Oh well. Live and learn.

'Invisible mending thread', which is just a dark coloured monofilament.

Thanks, guys. Steve its just a fairing around a couple of pipes that led to some sort of upper wing tank.

Eduard's 1/48th Profipack offering.

Hi there - I have a piece of steel rod that I wrap the barrels around, but a piece of plastic tube or rod would do. I just trap one edge with a finger, and roll.

Hi! Microfilament size? The thinner the better - some use 4lb fishing line, I use 'invisible mending thread' from the supermarket.The wings are hard to line up on some aircraft / kits, but both the ones you have there go together quite well, but I'd recommend you start with the Albatros. There are two 'easy' ways of doing woodgrain props. If you want an even colour but grainy appearance paint it buff, then use a sponge to wipe medium brown over it in the direction of the woodgrain. If you want to produce laminations (layers) then paint it buff, then use a brown pencil to draw on the darker laminations - check out my Albatros thread here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...topic=234912596 and there are some other threads in this forum on rigging etc. Above all - take your time, dryfit parts, and enjoy the builds.

I cut pieces of Uschi van der Rosten's woodgrain decals roughly the same size as the panels and applied them in different directions, alternating semi-randomly between his 'coarse' and 'fine' grain decals. Some I trimmed when in place, others I simply left overlapped where the grain hid the edge. Then I oversprayed them with thinned Tamiya acrylic browns to tone the effect down, but I went one coat too far and muted them a little more than I had intended. Oh well, live and learn.

You can use exactly the same technique with Acrylics

Eduard's timeless 1/48th DV kit, slightly modified to DVa spec. I built this to try Uschi's woodgrain decals, which are absolutely excellent - they are great to handle, stick down well, and give a very pleasing effect. Unfortunately I've oversprayed them / toned them down far too much, and failed to take into account the degree to which the other markings would reduce their visibility further. Next time I will use a lighter base coat and leave the grain effects far move visible. I also opted to use Eagle Strike's aftermarket Jasta 59 decal set simply because I had them and I thought it'd be something a bit different. By contrast to Alex's decals, they are terrible - thick, prone to tearing, and don't conform to shape very well at all - but it underlined just how good Alex's woodgrain decals are to use - highly recommended. Anyhoo, here it is: See, look really closely - they are there, really!

The best I've found is sold as 'Invisible Mending Thread' at sewing shops. It comes in black (which I prefer) or a silvery colour. EZ line is elastic which helps with tensioning, but there are some ceoncerns about it deteriorating over time.