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Vanroon

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About Vanroon

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    Victoria, Australia. 3218

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  1. It really is! Primer, lunch, sanding then painting.
  2. Colour decision made, I wanted a red interior so am running with the warm grey/ivory as in the photo above. Alerted to an anomalous vent window winder location by Britmodeller Jouko I filled the position with some Mr Surfacer 1000 and before it hardened attempted to match the trim contours with a dental tool. A little fine filing once the mess is properly dry and touch-up the colour. That tiny task complete, it was time to assemble the painted chassis, engine and exhaust. That went well with positive locations and glue-points. A little Tamiya color wash goes a long way. Need to add the steering arm, paint and detail the wheels, attach exhaust correctly. I was in two minds as to approaching the painting of the multi-piece body; simply paint each component and assemble later or; assemble the bodywork onto the floor pan which includes engine bay inner guards and exterior rear guards. out with some tape to dry-test fit. It looks so good, i immediately added some thin SMS solvent glue to the boot (trunk) panel. If only mainstream kits were this nice. I was so impressed at the natural fit the side panels/front guards were stuck on, test fitting the seats and door cards to assure myself this wasn’t folly. Panel & door lines are the panel breaks so it all works organically. The fascia cowling and bonnet panels are just loose dry fit in the photo above. This kit is coming along swimmingly. But, that's enough for me today, I'll prep sand the bodywork for primer, hopefully tomorrow.
  3. Thanks for the heads-up on the vent delete Jouko. I shall be sticking with the 4 door configuration. Using similar two-tone colours and I do like the scalloped two-tone paint on the Gläser coachwork.
  4. Thanks for the link Keith. I currently don't have the (laser) printer for such an item but may do in the near future. Appreciated.
  5. Oh, the colours running through my mind atm. I want a Stuart tartan decal for the seats! That fuel leak is to be expected for a 1937 IC automobile. Painting tomorrow (Sunday), the weather has switched from freezing to just cold.
  6. Opel Admiral Cabriolet ICM #24021 Purchased upon its Australian release in 2013, I was deterred from starting this model due to what seemed to me, over complicated multi-part chassis and bodywork. Today, it’s time has arrived. Followed the instructions and put the engine/gearbox together first. Basically the 3.6 litre inline 6 was a Chevrolet, Bedford, Opel truck engine. It came together very nicely. Looks awfully like a Holden ‘grey motor’ too. Followed on and started on the chassis. This went together as easily as the engine, the front axle and suspension was excellent to assemble with good sized pegs/holes or 3 face glueing for all the components. Fitted it and the two piece differential to the chassis then jigged the whole to dry square and level. Which it did. That took about 75 to 90 minutes of my modelling time, very pleasing progress. Now I need to make it look like this. Rummaged through the parts and decided to assemble the seats and folded cabriolet top. Nicely figured impressions for the seat upholstery they all went together very nicely. About now I was having to think about paint scheme to apply to the interior panels, seats and floor. An image search led me down the restored samples trail. They’re a nice looking vehicle for a Sunday drive with quite the (conservative) colour range. More as my fickle mind decides.
  7. Wonderful news! He shall a quite different car for a weekend vanity car and 'Show & Shines'.
  8. Thank you Tony. I imaging restoring a vehicle like that in UK would be kind of tricky and expensive too.
  9. Thanks Potsie, I know to shave the engine block now for when I build an HZ Monaro 4 door another acquaintance restored.
  10. We weren't scared of colourful cars back in the day. Shared a house with a fellow who had a bright yellow 253" Sandman. No sneaking about with that and the exhaust burble.
  11. Well, my attempts at getting the bonnet to close were all in vain, so I took the air-cleaner off to get that happen. Next time, I'll cut a couple of mm off the bottom of the engine block. Pretty much done now. Futile attempt #7. Passenger side view. The natural twist in the bonnet is worst here. As looking from the right 3/4 view. Still haven't chromed the filler cap or door lock. Getting close. Need a handle on the tailgate window panel, side marker lights etc. A seagulls eye view.
  12. I discovered it was over-tightning of the engine bay mounting screws. Fixed now. I shall have a look at the radiator etc. as I need to mount the coil and do some detail painting in the module. Thanks for the check.
  13. Thanks for the praise, the kit takes the cake tho'. I discovered during the disassembly that over-tightening screws was the cause. As soon as I loosened the engine-bay module, the bonnet closed. Fitted some punched shims to prevent a recurrence. Currently hand crafting the missing T handle for the upper tailgate. Nipping off the locating lugs allowed the back window to fit. Transparent enamel paints are drying on the light lenses and Im having a pre-sunset shiraz to steady my hand for the black trim.
  14. Ooo. Second page! Thanks for all the comments Brits. A test assembly was a) quick and b) annoying because i must have done something wrong. The bonnet won't close. Still quite a lot to do, starting with disassembly to find the misfit. It will lurk somewhere in here. I think. The roof rack, need to secure the spare wheel. Tail lights to be coloured and fitted. Find the tiny T handle for the tail window panel, make the window fit. Chrome filler cap and entry lock. Black on the side vents, front marker lights etc. Its Sunday tomorrow, a good day to deal with this mess.
  15. Thanks. I have done a little more but have yet to document it. Tomorrow.
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