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About Vanroon

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    Western Australia 6103

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  1. It's a pretty unique thing. Like a caster. Found this while browsing. Grant
  2. No scraps of that left in the shed. I checked. Now for a close-up. Note the lip around the cockpit. G
  3. There's a four month resupply drought of this product in West Oz. i watched a bloke rechrome a stripped to the plastic grille and bumper for the 1/25 '61 Skyliner Ford. Better than factory. No base coat/thickness required. All scratches show bright.,
  4. Carving a buck, not a stag. Ive sprayed one coat of TMS (testors metalizer sealer) before the decals and once or twice again after to merge them in. However, the more clear, the more toy like. Are your decals glossy?, perhaps give them a coat before application. G
  5. That came out all right Reconciler. . Buffable metallic paint can improve with polishing and other handling but is fairly fragile when handled repeatedly before being sealed. Testors metalizer sealer is very good. G
  6. Bloody nazi memorabilia. Losers. Yeah Vinnie, I keep my box art, instructions and any of those badges or glue capsules. Not all but if it's striking or artistic it has a chance. One drawer of a four drawer filing cabinet. ๐Ÿ˜„ Grant
  7. A canopy buck. Must get some testing of new machine done on old bucks found in the recent move. Grant
  8. Oo, primer, progress. Missed your company and banter on Saturday. Grant
  9. Tickle
  10. Second getting a read of Bloody Shambles for background to your project. Library service perhaps? Dont overlook the ground attack aircraft involved, Ki.51 etc. reconnaissance flying boat bombers, Ki.46-II for beauty ... Grant
  11. Hello Crossiant Oliver, A compressed air cylinder is a great alternative to a compressor if quiet is a criterion. My old Paasche H is still my go to airbrush for fine work. Wear an apron and have fun on the learning curve. Grant
  12. I'll dig around for samples. BMF is good on plastic, but for your medium I think heavier foil may fill the bill. Van Rooniac
  13. So, would now be a good time to recommend using either self adhesive foil or hd kitchen foil with spray glue on the back as your surface finish? An adept such as yourself may cut pieces the size and shape to meet those carefully drafted lines. See you this weekend?
  14. Hi Gardner, I think you need to start thinking about making your own. Currently I'm making a 1/32 model for a mantleshelf but don't know if an in flight or parked model would be best. In flight my thoughts run to a base with an acrylic post with a screw from the model to a triangle of two boomerangs with a slot in the model. On the ground is worse. Every wheels down aircraft I have built for display was a ruin before a year was gone. Ground monkeys. ๐Ÿ˜œ Short answer. Post. Grant
  15. My return to plastic modeling in the early 90s was made better for the Airfix Mk.Vb and the Otaki Mk.VIII Spitfire kits. Both of which needed modification to represent RAAF aircraft. The enjoyment drawn from them was like building my first Aurora Sopwith Camel and D.III Albatross before teenage. Around 1963 I strayed into automobile modelling in 1/32 scale. Very rewarding and encouraged creativity vis รก vis colour, detail and later, form. Prior to that anything released from 1956 that cost less than two bob were my plastic. All fell to bedspread ack-ack. Instructions. The newer kits I have for my retirement are lusciously moulded, with assemblies which require direction. Wingnut Wings and Tamiya 1/32 scale kitsets being a case in point. Then aftermarket. ๐Ÿ˜Ž If you eschew instruction, resin kits. I do like to slap together an old kit such as Smer reissues of someone else's product. Fiat G.55. Talbot Lago, old Glencoe kits etc owe me nothing financially and deserve to be built after being stored and carted around all those years. Grant