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    • Mike

      Switched Identities   18/06/17

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Robin Lous

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About Robin Lous

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    The Hague, Netherlands

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  1. Happy birthday Olivier! About the colour choises I made...I looked at photo's and drawings and when in doubt...I looked at other cars and made estimated guesses. I know not all of what I did is correct...the axle in front of the radiator might as well be bare metal...mine is red. Hannes...you see mesh, because you want to see it.
  2. And...it fits! It's such a tight fit...I don't have to glue it in place...It will never come out again...not without extreme force anyway. So, like it or not...it's there to stay now. More soon, Robin
  3. My radiator v2.0... Huge compared to the kit's take on this...and yet it goes in the same casing! About the mesh...I'm not sure it was used either. No matter what it looks good and it makes some sense. I have serious doubts it was placed right behind the grille...this would be visible on some of the photo's.... Keep in mind the mesh is really fine, probably finer than mesh used to protect a radiator. This would be visible on the photo's.
  4. there's no honeycomb on my radiator
  5. Well...I'm back in the saddle again. I started making a new radiator, because the kit's radiator looks wrong. Mainly the stretched "15" annoyed me. I scatch build a new radiator around the partly demolished kit's radiator. I used all the space I have inside the radiator casing and got rid of the decorative radiator shell (not seen it on photo's anyway). This widens the actual radiator (available space for the "15") with about 6mm. With the blackened brass border the protective mesh is now comparable to the "add on" mesh seen on many Bugatti 35's. The border with the mesh will be attached to the radiator with small brass strips around the tube. I checked the position of the filler cap and the connection to the engine...all is fine! I must now make a new "15" mask to suit my new radiator. More soon, Robin
  6. Guys...no worries about me being missing in action! I was in Spain (Bilbao and the Rioja region) for some days. The Marques de Riscal wine estate hotel (architect Frank Gehry...same guy who did the Guggenheim in Bilbao) I go back to work on my 806 tomorrow! Robin
  7. I grossly underestimated the effect of a disc to camber the wheels.... The estimated 1,5mm is way too much. This is all it needs....4mm of 0,5mm thick. This makes life much easier and the disc will hardly be visible...just a lick of red on the edge is enough. Will cut off the axle near it's base and replace it with a brass tube at the right angle. I'll glue the tube to the inside of the hole in part 139D (the "red disc") and leave it off until I can put on the wheels. These parts stick out dangerously and I'm afraid to damage them while working on the rest of the car....I know myself, better safe than sorry! More soon, Robin
  8. Agree to disagree
  9. When we look better at photo 9....the bright look likely comes from light coloured road dirt. Look at the tires and bottom of the car for instance. Compare the dull grey we see on the triangular handles, the tires, bottom and side of the car with the bare metal steering rod. The steering rod looks far more reflective. A quick soil study of the region Geology and morphology: Quaternary alluvial and glacio-fluvial deposits. Level land, mean altitude: 95 meters above sea level (standard deviation 110), mean slope: 1% (std 5). Main soils: soils with pedogenetic structure in depth and weakly differentiated profile (Eutric, Chromic and Calcaric Cambisols); recent alluvial soils (Eutric and Calcaric Fluvisols); soils with reorganization of carbonates (Haplic Calcisols); soils decarbonated and rich in iron oxides, with clay accumulation along the profile (Haplic, Gleyic and Chromic Luvisol); sandy and weakly developed soils (Calcaric Arenosols and Regosols); soils with vertic properties and reorganization of carbonates (Gleyic and Vertic Cambisols, Eutric, Gypsic and Calcic Vertisols); more or less shallow soils on limestone with organic matter accumulation (Rendzic Leptosols; Calcaric Phaeozems); soils with shallow water table (Eutric Gleysols; Thionic Fluvisols and Cambisols); soils with organic matter accumulation (Ombric and Thionic Histosols).
  10. Dear Hannes, I disagree about chrome (makes no sense to chrome those parts) and even polishing I find highly unlikely. When I look at photo 7A (unedited) only the 3 small knobs stand out. Keep in mind, bare metal reflect more light, so it looks much brighter than it is. Wet conditions, poor light, possible grease or oil spill can make it look even more "shiny". A dark surrounding makes something light stand out even more. Example.... Same part....the insert is a photo outside.....it's a very bright day. The other...inside with poor light. All the sudden the worn off paint looks far brighter! Robin
  11. Well...tubes or no tubes, I dont like the look of them on this engine, so I won't use them. Half a day work for nothing, but I was curious about them, so I just had to check.
  12. Since I found photo's of cars with "partial" connector wire tubes...I continued making them. Still not sure I'll use them, but this is how they can be used. There's room between these tubes and the plumbing on top of the engine. A mechanic can replace the plugs with a spark plug wrench without a problem. Some risk of burning his hands when the engine is hot though. Again...nut sure about using them...what do you guys think? The brake line attachment blocks can be seen on photo 3...good kit parts! Seemingly painted black with some wear on the edges and the adjustment knobs. I used steel pigment powder from Vallejo for this. Much nicer than drybrushing with paint imho. And to avoid being chased out of town...I also camber the front wheels. A different approach... A disk in between 15B and 139D...from 1,5mm on top to almost nothing on the bottom will provide the camber. The thin (why...oh why?) wheel axle will be cut off near the base and I'll replace it with a brass tube with a M2 bolt to attach the wheel. All a bit longer to make up for the added thickness of the brake drums (135D)....see photo 21. The added width will make up for the cambering...without, the track of the front wheels will be too narrow. A matching nut inside the hubs to make them workable. Hope this explanation makes sense More soon, Robin
  13. http://www.rbmotion.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=123 I also got their spark plugs and some other stuff, but most you can find on Knupfer also. Keep in mind high P&P cost and possible import duties when you buy from outside the EU. Delivery time...one week. The wire is worth it! not found elsewhere.
  14. Micro madness! Insane, but...insane! Robin
  15. Pfff...not an easy situation Olivier, but I think it's not too bad! I think when you remove the "cross" underneath the engine...you might be able to sink it in. It's now blocking the engine. You can later make new...a bit longer attachment points for the cross. Looks like your radiator won't cause any problems (good news!) and it's not too difficult to lower the magnetos a bit. You probably must change the angle of the steering column also. It's extra work, but it can be done...and you can do it! I've seen you solve greater problems. Take a few days off from the workbench when needed. Edit: When the rod underneath the gear shift causes a problem...cut it short! It serves no real purpose anyway! It's just a fancy..."oh look! I can move the stick!" thing. No drama when that's not possible. Another option is to completely cut off the floor in front of the seat. That's probably how it was anyway. This will show the cross beams and the oil and fuel lines...can add an extra dimension to your build and it solves a problem. Win win situation! Cheer up my friend! We will help you with whatever we can. Robin