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Robin Lous

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About Robin Lous

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    The Hague, Netherlands
  1. Dear Olivier, The mesh alone isn't enough te represent a radiator, so I used both...front and rear..and mesh on both. Without the kit's will be just mesh and that looks like there's just mesh Also...the "15" looks much better with the radiator...white paint went through the mesh...on the radiator. With a nice result. I painted the brass casing before assembly, because you can't paint the interior of it afterwards...the outside needs another coat of brass after filling and sanding. Careful masking needed now!...I don't want to see my "15" mesh destroyed by brass paint. Yes...I know the kit's radiator is wrong, but changing this (and the engine cover with it) is beyond my modeliling I have to live with the shame Edit: it's also easier to mask and paint the "15" on the mesh when it's not yet part of the whole construction. Cheers!, Robin
  2. Fair enough, but that still leaves us with the retouched poor quality photo's of the car and the possibility (imho likeliness) of rivets and what's behind those rivets. I still hope for a 1/12 or 1/8 Bugatti 35 least it's well documented, plenty living examples and it's my dream car
  3. Dear Hannes, 806 photo's 1-3 are heavily retouched and from about the same distance as the first full size photo shown by Roy (taken with a modern digital camera). On Roy's photo the rivets are close to invisible...some vague dents at best....and that's a high quality colour photo. Another reason not to trust 806 1-3 that's still an unfinished car. A funny example...the lower engine cover (attached to the chassis). On 1A it's retouched to full lenght, on 1AA (original same photo) ...hey!?'s shorter! On photo's 1(all) and 2...this panel is not bolted to the chassis lies on top of the bolts (already there). is bolted on, but a black line retouched in there to confuse us. On photo 3...a keen eye can see it's now bolted to the chassis! This is pretty much proof 1-3 photos are "work in progress" photo's....not a finished car. And the bad part of the story...all other photo's are unclear. Robin @Roy vd M. thanks a lot...great video's!
  4. Thanks Roy! I rest my case
  5. Dear Hannes, -When you look at the first photo of Roy's post...these rivets are not very visible...certainly not from a distance. Also this car "had a life" this puts stress on the rivets and the sheet around them. The 806 was brand new car. When you take a 1927 reporter quality photo of the car from a distance these flat rivets might not show. It's maybe like when you look at a WWII Spitfire...look at it from a distance and it's a smooth plane...when you stand next to'll see thousands of small rivets. -I agree about the holes in the chassis...they certainly don't look like rivets...they look like holes. -The folded edge...over a wire or otherwise.. will give some stifness and strenght, but it's also (mainly?) meant to create a rounded smooth edge instead of a knife like sharp edge. I doubt this alone provides enough strenght to keep the bodywork from deforming. A driver or mechanic climbing in and out will already make it look like a mess. -I support the likelyhood of a firewall...even more rivets needed! -I doubt welding was/is possible on thin aluminium sheet material. When the 806 had no rivets at all (like the kit) it would have been top secret rocket science not seen on any other period car....or it would have the strenght and stifness of a wet noodle Cheers, Robin
  6. A different subject, but these photo's are showing it nicely...(see @Roy vd M.'s post above). Internal sidewall reinforcing panels and flat rivets. I was wondering about this. The 806 kit has no reinforced sidewalls, but I strongly believe these are needed. Without.. a thin aluminium bodywork has no strength whatsoever. Specially the cockpit sides will be very weak and deform very easily. On the 806 photo's we see no rivets, but they're low quality and flat rivets are hardly visible (not at all when filled before painting). When I look at the interior of other cars, I find it highly unlikely the 806 body has no rivets apart from the large ones behind the rear axle. Because we don't see them, doesn't mean the car didn't had any. What do you guys think? Robin
  7. The radiator with Olivier's Aber mesh... The radiator itself painted with Vallejo Burnt Iron, the mesh matt black, and the brass frame. I cut the mesh with decal scissors, this was fairly easy. I placed it on top of the radiator and cut it around the edge. Reduced the thickness of the radiators by sanding the backside, so they still fit into the slots with the mesh on them.. Carefuly glued the mesh to the radiator...just a couple of tiny drops of super glue on the edges. Airbrushed the "15". I always stick masking tape to the palm of my hand a few times before I use it, this will make it less sticky and reduces the chance of ripping off the paint underneath. A whole bunch of misty (high pressure, not much paint, from a fair distance) layers of white to avoid running under the tape and clogging the mesh. Pretty pleased with the result. Still need to fill, clean up and re-paint the gaps. I think the mesh was a great idea! Thanks again Olivier! Done enough for today...more tomorrow Robin
  8. My floor... And the extra chassis beam. Since I received the Aber PE mesh (Olivier's idea...thanks for that) I'll now do the radiator. More soon, Robin
  9. not ready yet, but I promised to show my floor... Without the tanks and unfinished foot board... Looks terrible without the tanks, but it shows the cradle I made for them. I shortened the floor, because I think it serves no purpose behind the seat. Will make the frame tube/rod there from aluminium or brass tube. I'll also make a support frame for the fuel tank (something like that is visible on drawing 2) To do before painting: Make the holes in the footboard, rivets and bolts, tidy the hole in the floor and seat attachment beams. More soon, Robin
  10. Dear Olivier, It doesn't bother me at all, but I'm afraid it will start to bother you at some point.
  11. I still see a piece of wood Looks good! More mature, more agressive and more like a racer for sure! Since I demolished my floor I'm now scratchbuilding a new one from 1mm Evergreen sheet. On top of it 0,5mm Evergreen sheet plates and a perforated footboard plate (Bugatti 35B inspired) and a vertical "breakwater"plate in front of it. (about 7mm high underneath the pedals). I hope to be able to show more later today. Cheers, Roin
  12. I almost feel guilty you have to do all the extra work now. And your wooden floor looked really nice! With all the examples from other period cars I now also think it's fairly safe to assume the 806 had a firewall like any other car. Hannes mentioned this before (and maybe others...92 pages...I might have overlooked stuff). Part 121D seems to be a good starting point for this. Cheers, Robin
  13. Good point! I can see the use of a small wooden floor forward right. From the front edge of the seat forward, because it will be easier to get out of the car with a wooden board there. Bare aluminium there will be very slippery (oil, rainwater, dirt) and it will make climbing out kinda difficult. More or less like a modern day car mat. Cheers, Robin
  14. you think the whole floor was planked? I have doubts about that. I don't think planking the left forward part of the floor makes much sense. It's complicated to plank around the hole in the floor, in between the two tanks and around the forward tank... and I see no reason to do that...there. Perhaps there wasn't even a floor all. What do you think? Cheers, Robin
  15. @Hannes @sharknose156 thanks guys! @Olivier de St Raph looks good! Cheers, Robin