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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Robin Lous

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About Robin Lous

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    The Hague, Netherlands

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  1. I grossly underestimated the effect of a disc to camber the wheels.... The estimated 1,5mm is way too much. This is all it needs....4mm of 0,5mm thick. This makes life much easier and the disc will hardly be visible...just a lick of red on the edge is enough. Will cut off the axle near it's base and replace it with a brass tube at the right angle. I'll glue the tube to the inside of the hole in part 139D (the "red disc") and leave it off until I can put on the wheels. These parts stick out dangerously and I'm afraid to damage them while working on the rest of the car....I know myself, better safe than sorry! More soon, Robin
  2. Agree to disagree
  3. When we look better at photo 9....the bright look likely comes from light coloured road dirt. Look at the tires and bottom of the car for instance. Compare the dull grey we see on the triangular handles, the tires, bottom and side of the car with the bare metal steering rod. The steering rod looks far more reflective. A quick soil study of the region Geology and morphology: Quaternary alluvial and glacio-fluvial deposits. Level land, mean altitude: 95 meters above sea level (standard deviation 110), mean slope: 1% (std 5). Main soils: soils with pedogenetic structure in depth and weakly differentiated profile (Eutric, Chromic and Calcaric Cambisols); recent alluvial soils (Eutric and Calcaric Fluvisols); soils with reorganization of carbonates (Haplic Calcisols); soils decarbonated and rich in iron oxides, with clay accumulation along the profile (Haplic, Gleyic and Chromic Luvisol); sandy and weakly developed soils (Calcaric Arenosols and Regosols); soils with vertic properties and reorganization of carbonates (Gleyic and Vertic Cambisols, Eutric, Gypsic and Calcic Vertisols); more or less shallow soils on limestone with organic matter accumulation (Rendzic Leptosols; Calcaric Phaeozems); soils with shallow water table (Eutric Gleysols; Thionic Fluvisols and Cambisols); soils with organic matter accumulation (Ombric and Thionic Histosols).
  4. Dear Hannes, I disagree about chrome (makes no sense to chrome those parts) and even polishing I find highly unlikely. When I look at photo 7A (unedited) only the 3 small knobs stand out. Keep in mind, bare metal reflect more light, so it looks much brighter than it is. Wet conditions, poor light, possible grease or oil spill can make it look even more "shiny". A dark surrounding makes something light stand out even more. Example.... Same part....the insert is a photo's a very bright day. The other...inside with poor light. All the sudden the worn off paint looks far brighter! Robin
  5. Well...tubes or no tubes, I dont like the look of them on this engine, so I won't use them. Half a day work for nothing, but I was curious about them, so I just had to check.
  6. Since I found photo's of cars with "partial" connector wire tubes...I continued making them. Still not sure I'll use them, but this is how they can be used. There's room between these tubes and the plumbing on top of the engine. A mechanic can replace the plugs with a spark plug wrench without a problem. Some risk of burning his hands when the engine is hot though. Again...nut sure about using them...what do you guys think? The brake line attachment blocks can be seen on photo 3...good kit parts! Seemingly painted black with some wear on the edges and the adjustment knobs. I used steel pigment powder from Vallejo for this. Much nicer than drybrushing with paint imho. And to avoid being chased out of town...I also camber the front wheels. A different approach... A disk in between 15B and 139D...from 1,5mm on top to almost nothing on the bottom will provide the camber. The thin (why...oh why?) wheel axle will be cut off near the base and I'll replace it with a brass tube with a M2 bolt to attach the wheel. All a bit longer to make up for the added thickness of the brake drums (135D)....see photo 21. The added width will make up for the cambering...without, the track of the front wheels will be too narrow. A matching nut inside the hubs to make them workable. Hope this explanation makes sense More soon, Robin
  7. I also got their spark plugs and some other stuff, but most you can find on Knupfer also. Keep in mind high P&P cost and possible import duties when you buy from outside the EU. Delivery week. The wire is worth it! not found elsewhere.
  8. Micro madness! Insane, but...insane! Robin
  9. Pfff...not an easy situation Olivier, but I think it's not too bad! I think when you remove the "cross" underneath the might be able to sink it in. It's now blocking the engine. You can later make new...a bit longer attachment points for the cross. Looks like your radiator won't cause any problems (good news!) and it's not too difficult to lower the magnetos a bit. You probably must change the angle of the steering column also. It's extra work, but it can be done...and you can do it! I've seen you solve greater problems. Take a few days off from the workbench when needed. Edit: When the rod underneath the gear shift causes a problem...cut it short! It serves no real purpose anyway! It's just a fancy..."oh look! I can move the stick!" thing. No drama when that's not possible. Another option is to completely cut off the floor in front of the seat. That's probably how it was anyway. This will show the cross beams and the oil and fuel lines...can add an extra dimension to your build and it solves a problem. Win win situation! Cheer up my friend! We will help you with whatever we can. Robin
  10. Last update for tonight... Working with the 0,38mm braided steel wire from RB Motion... Super cool stuff this! Much, much nicer than the kit's 1,5mm thick "spring wire". I used small pieces of 1mm aluminium tube (0,8mm inside) to make nice loops. Just flatten the tube a tiny bit, so the 2 cables go in nicely...tighten the loop and squeeze the tube to secure the loop. Cut off the loose end and (keep in mind it's steel!) add a tiny drop of CA glue to make sure it all stays in place. Test fit of the adjusted steering... The steering rod sits as horizontal as possible, no problems with the rear leaf spring mount....can move back and forth without a problem. The cross bar...good height and distance from the radiator cover....can move freely also. The screws are in upside down for ease of dry fitting...must shorten them a bit. Not too bad I think! Must now allign the construction carefully before I glue the 2 15B parts to 30B and 31B. Two more days I can make more progress...must make sure to stay ahead of Olivier! Robin
  11. I think photo 3 (1616) is the best shot we have from the brake stick. It looks like kinda crude unsophisticated wood...not sure though. The other half decent photo of the stick is photo 9...not sure of what it is on that photo either. Anyway...I also replaced the stick itself. It's still a work in progress. I'll file and sand the low right "corner" of the stick round. I used 0,5mm aluminium sheet for the stick...the real thing looks thin and flat. Will also make or find a better top button. More soon, Robin
  12. Thanks Hannes, Whatever it was made wasn't the kit suggests. You guys surely remember the wooden gear shift knob I made...I decided to use the same briar root for the brake handle grip. Probably wrong, but I'm allowed to throw in some artistic freedom...and it looks damn good imho Cut off another piece of the already mutilated pipe (it was a superb straight grain James Upshall pipe in it's previous life) and roughly shaped it with a sanding bit. Drilled a 0,8mm hole through it and used my Proxxon as a poor man's lathe. First sanding sticks, different grades of sandpaper (from 400 to 2000) after that. Rounded top and bottom and a lick of varnish. Result...2mm diameter... about the same size the kit's handle has. The knob on the steering wheel will be made of this also. Fruitful sunday! More soon, Robin
  13. Stunning paint job! ...not only the paint job btw...the whole thing looks awesome! Robin
  14. Thanks guys! I agree about the leaf springs being odd and what I've seen on the (few) photo's showing the rear trident to be seen. The most simple solution...just chop them off...a new lick of paint and done. Olivier, the new lever looks spot on! (I won't do that). Furthermore....note the absence of the radiator. I'm waiting for more Aber S-10 mesh. When I get it I'll modify the radiator to make it wider. Room for 2mm each side to make it sit flush in the casing. I'll also replace the brass painted front edge with blackened and polished (gives a nice patina) real brass. When I do this I can replace the stretched "15" with the realistic version of it. Imho the odd stretched "15" is the single most obvious and annoying wrong of this kit and since it's fairly easy to fix...I'll fix it. While waiting for the mesh, I'll continue with the front suspension. I can now also touch up the engine. Question: the brake handle...the grip....was this wood? Edit: This photo shows the red I used it is (for a change). More soon, Robin
  15. Ok...more... The axle, leaf springs and dampers. 35 plastic kit parts, 24 screws and bolts and 24 extra (mainly scrap PE) parts on the leaf springs. Wasn't shake and bake, but not too hard either....the parts all fit amazingly well. More soon, Robin