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Michael Church

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About Michael Church

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  1. Could the supports be bolted from the underside of the bonnet? What if you cut the supports from plastic card stock about 1.5 mm thick then attach the supports to the bonnet and the windscreen to the supports using approximately 1 mm nuts? Then, in theory, the glue would be confined to the insides of the nut holes drilled into the card stock and the head of the nuts would hold the clear sheet to the supports. A little like how this blogger built a Jaguar D-type windscreen, but with sideways supports instead of a metal band. I'm not sure if this makes sense--I haven't had enough cof
  2. Really nice work on this. My brain is having a rough time making sense of your last photo. It's like a monocoque car built around a train wheel bogie!
  3. Thanks @klubman01. I think my problem is simple lack of experience with decals that aren't license plates and dashboard details. I have new respect for people who work with incredibly elaborate Le Mans and rally schemes, especially in larger scales.
  4. Finally, some progress to report. Two weeks ago, the body looked great, with smooth white paint ready for decals. This is the first time I've prepared Tamiya acrylic paint, thinner, and retarder in a separate bottle rather than trying to mix everything in the airbrush cup. The Tamiya retarder is amazing for airbrushing. I'll spare you the photos, but my next step was to make a mess of both of the large nose decals Tameo supplied. I have a replacement on the way, but meanwhile I discovered that Tameo decals don't budge once applied and I made a mess of the paint. So back to the s
  5. Ron @silver911, thank you for taking the time to restore the photos. As others have said, your work isn't just astounding, it's accompanied by text that helps us all improve.
  6. I expected @cmatthewbacon to reply that he made 1/12 scale mechanics' hands to precisely replicate how their pushing the car would selectively remove grime
  7. @Brandy, I just looked at your photos at the start of this thread of the toy-like wheels that came in this kit, and where you're heading is absolutely staggering in comparison.
  8. Thanks @Sabrejet. It's funny, posting here makes me both want to finish sooner because everything seems to move faster online than in reality, but also to be happy with a few slow steps because it's easier to see your own progress when you can what you've done over time. Next time I start a build thread I'll include photos of parts straight out of the box.
  9. Completely by coincidence, Car & Driver has an article today about an EV restomod of this car and it's a stunner, in a basic economy car sort of way.
  10. More slow progress. The three-part wheels are assembled and painted and the tires have had their mold lines removed and a slight flat spot added at the mold release point. Primer and this first coat of white paint were more labor than I expected. The kit has bulges on the outside of the body near the cockpit opening on the opposite side of the screw holes, and they took repeated sanding and reprimering to vanish. Sort of like swirls in silver plastic. I'll get a solid coat of gloss white on this weekend then move to decals. Meanwhile, my magnifying visor arrives tomorrow. Thanks to @Kitkent an
  11. On this Hino and the Renault, I think the flattened tires, rubber window surrounds, and not-too-shiny paint are incredibly effective at making these look realistic. Thank you for sharing so many details of the builds and the related tips!
  12. Great build! Your photos are the first high-resolution images I've seen of this kit, and I wonder if Renaissance has captured the car's look better than the Model Factory Hiro version?
  13. Hi all, A small but important milestone: the 24 pieces, 4 decals, and 10 wires in the 2.5 cm long engine and transmission are assembled and painted. I need to tone done the solder coolant lines and velocity stacks with a little Tamiya smoke. I also need to figure out how and whether to fix the upside down Ford labels, or if I just leave them as is as a lesson to my future self. The ignition wires could be tidier, but while adding them I realized there's something seriously strange about how my eyes process .25 mm semi-gloss black wires over a semi-gloss black header--there's no dep
  14. I didn't grow up with Airfix, so seeing these 1/32 builds sent me off on a Google search. There's something seriously tempting about building a Vauxhall Victor estate or another of the very much non-sporting 1960s British cars if they were available. But I am glad to see Airfix never made a Morris Oxford Series III, because my wife would be demanding that I mod one to look like a Hindustan Ambassador taxicab.
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