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Michael Church

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    Washington, D.C.

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  1. Wow, thanks for posting this. It turned out very well. Did the metal body parts require much filler to get a good surface? Until your post I had completely forgotten about making a mess of one of the Model A Fords when I was a kid.
  2. Great start! Your explanation about pushing the weight back and shrinking the sidepods is fascinating.
  3. This is incredible work. Flipped over, it reminds me of a horseshoe crab--a sleek if odd looking shell hiding all kinds of complex bits.
  4. @nick, thanks for adding the five-pack of wire wheels for the roadster version. I don't have the kit yet and I may not have space to store, build, or display it, but your wheels are reason enough to add an 8C to my backlog. I'll put in an order soon
  5. You have me rethinking my next build! The cycle fenders on the roadster version are calling to me.
  6. I love it--your build, the choice of colors, and the added details convey what a happy, charming little car these were in the model's early years.
  7. Andrew, I go through the same mental process with every single kit I build. Posting a work in progress here was helpful in accepting errors, imperfections, etc. One of the things that drew me back to modeling a few years ago was the need to have an outlet for my detail orientation that didn't *really* matter. At the time, my job required that I work fast and balance perfection with hitting deadlines. Building car kits and developing the related skills is a realm where I get to control how much to pursue perfectionism without consequences of not delivering at work. On a more practical level, I've been trying to keep a simple build and a complex build going at the same time. It keeps me a little less nuts. To balance a 1/12 MFH kit I'd probably need something really simple--like a 10 piece jigsaw puzzle.
  8. I love the spare tire (ahem "tyre") strap--it gives the back of the car a ton of personality.
  9. Trevor, thanks for showing the steps in your process. It's a real boon to see what goes into using putty and plastic card for this degree of reconstructive surgery.
  10. @Toftdale, thanks for posting these photos. They're all great, but the third photo of the Locomobile is especially useful for thinking about how to paint and weather the various metals in early cars. I can see some of this weathering being useful for the new Model Factory Hiro Alfa Romeo P2. Now if only one would appear in my mailbox....
  11. Thanks all. The responses are much appreciated. Watching my build while following others here has been extremely instructive as a way of building skill and setting expectations for the next build.
  12. I managed to nearly wrap this kit up over a long weekend and made room to take these quick poor-quality phone photos. There's some touchup left here and there, and I think I can get the cowl to fit a little better, but I'm overall very happy with the results. If I get ambitious I'll take some photos for a ready for inspection post with better light and something approximating better focal depth control. For the next venture into exposed painted suspension components I have ceramic-coated tweezers and nylon-covered flat pliers on the way (thanks again to Ron @silver911 for his suggestions in @Octavian's MFH GTO build). As I've said before in this thread, Tameo engineered this very well and it went together more easily than I would have expected. It's given me the confidence to tackle the MFH 1/43 Bugatti 35B in my backlog once I finish up a couple of road cars in progress. Anyway, on to the photos. Thanks for watching!
  13. "Being entirely bored of "Semi Gloss Black." There's a Japanese blogger who talks about mixing various blacks and browns to create some variety of semi-gloss black and without fail I completely forget his suggestion until after I've laid down a nice smooth semi-glossy coat of semi-gloss black on whatever I'm working on.
  14. Andrew, thanks for posting the photo of a PE part slightly the size of a dust mite. It reminded me to seek this board's collective wisdom. Have you (or anyone here!) found any surprise ideas for cleaning up and handling these parts? I use a flat jeweler's pliers to hold bits while filing off the PE fret tags, but it's difficult even to get the smallest parts aligned properly in the jaws. I'd also be incredibly happy to hear if there are magic tweezers for moving tiny PE parts around without damaging paint. I tried wrapping tweezers with Tamiya masking tape, but that's a little like wearing mittens. But bare metal tweezers make it even more likely I'll grasp too hard and shoot parts across the room. Separately, watching this build makes me think I might need an MFH 1/12 kit...maybe an Alfa P2.
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