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Michael Church

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    Washington, D.C.

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  1. Trevor, thanks for showing the steps in your process. It's a real boon to see what goes into using putty and plastic card for this degree of reconstructive surgery.
  2. @Toftdale, thanks for posting these photos. They're all great, but the third photo of the Locomobile is especially useful for thinking about how to paint and weather the various metals in early cars. I can see some of this weathering being useful for the new Model Factory Hiro Alfa Romeo P2. Now if only one would appear in my mailbox....
  3. Thanks all. The responses are much appreciated. Watching my build while following others here has been extremely instructive as a way of building skill and setting expectations for the next build.
  4. I managed to nearly wrap this kit up over a long weekend and made room to take these quick poor-quality phone photos. There's some touchup left here and there, and I think I can get the cowl to fit a little better, but I'm overall very happy with the results. If I get ambitious I'll take some photos for a ready for inspection post with better light and something approximating better focal depth control. For the next venture into exposed painted suspension components I have ceramic-coated tweezers and nylon-covered flat pliers on the way (thanks again to Ron @silver911 for his suggestions in @Octavian's MFH GTO build). As I've said before in this thread, Tameo engineered this very well and it went together more easily than I would have expected. It's given me the confidence to tackle the MFH 1/43 Bugatti 35B in my backlog once I finish up a couple of road cars in progress. Anyway, on to the photos. Thanks for watching!
  5. "Being entirely bored of "Semi Gloss Black." There's a Japanese blogger who talks about mixing various blacks and browns to create some variety of semi-gloss black and without fail I completely forget his suggestion until after I've laid down a nice smooth semi-glossy coat of semi-gloss black on whatever I'm working on.
  6. Andrew, thanks for posting the photo of a PE part slightly the size of a dust mite. It reminded me to seek this board's collective wisdom. Have you (or anyone here!) found any surprise ideas for cleaning up and handling these parts? I use a flat jeweler's pliers to hold bits while filing off the PE fret tags, but it's difficult even to get the smallest parts aligned properly in the jaws. I'd also be incredibly happy to hear if there are magic tweezers for moving tiny PE parts around without damaging paint. I tried wrapping tweezers with Tamiya masking tape, but that's a little like wearing mittens. But bare metal tweezers make it even more likely I'll grasp too hard and shoot parts across the room. Separately, watching this build makes me think I might need an MFH 1/12 kit...maybe an Alfa P2.
  7. As others have said, the Dzus fasteners are a great addition. Very nice build. I do like the late 60s to early 70s experiments and the mix of automotive designs that resulted.
  8. Off to a great start and I can't wait to see more. I try to remind myself that Ron and the other extraordinarily talented builders here didn't begin that way. I had a breakthrough on that front with a Renaissance Ferrari 250 TR kit that has a photoetch frame for a vacform windscreen. Both parts have nasty complex curves that go in several impossible directions at the same time. But the instructions, written by the guy who also builds Renaissance kits for sale, say "have courage, this is not easy but I managed it." I made a mess of the windscreen frame but now I feel like I share something with a professional builder.
  9. That's a great color on a car that's almost completely unknown in the U.S. A little Tamiya polishing compound should take care of the last bit of texture
  10. Seconding what Keith said. Using an eraser to form curves is genius!
  11. I do wonder how many hours of this build I have spent on the floor using my phone flashlight trying to find photoetch parts
  12. Hope it works for you, Chris. The idea of cutting masking tape around all those angles in the body seemed like a sure way to slice into paint. I think the Sol R stuff might come off more easily from polished paint--I had a couple spots of orange peel where it took some encouragement to remove.
  13. I'm glad to learn from this build that I'm not the only person to have trouble with Tamiya drill bits. Cheap disposable Chinese bits have proven much easier to use on white metal and resin. Great work on the GTO! Thanks for sharing your progress.
  14. This build hasn't been abandoned yet! The replacement decals took a long time to ship from Italy, but they're now applied, clear coated, and mostly polished. This amount of zoom is always humbling, and even more so on white paint, but it also helps for spotting sections of paint that could be smoother. The cat hair on the nose is fortunately not stuck to the paint. This is the first time I've used Gunze Mr. Masking Sol R, when I painted the interior and underside of the body black. it's great stuff and much easier and less nail-biting that masking tape for things like the edge of the cockpit. At the power end, the engine and rear suspension are fully assembled other than final attachment of the wing and wheels. I'll do that last to see if I can get the stance right, although I'm not excited to bend anything at this stage. I may sand the tires (er "tyres") a bit--they're a little glossy, but less so under normal light. I decided to build this Brabham partly to get more experience with 1/43 open-wheel metal kits so I can tackle something from Model Factory Hiro. I have Hiro's Lancia D50 and Bugatti Type 35 waiting, and they seem less intimidating now that I've managed to assemble this puzzle of a 1970s F1 suspension! Thanks for watching and thanks to all the posters who share their builds and expertise here.
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