rob Lyttle

Progress has been made (as the opportunity arises)... Interior fitted complete with 2 aircrew in the front seats, instrument panel in and plasticene filling the nose area in both halves. And finally committed to the glue.... Not a perfect fit-- I note that Chris removed the alignment pins and did the seams manually-- maybe I should have done the same. But it's joined 👋

Oh yeah...... little bit of shuffling around recommended for the main gears 💡 Are those resin engines? Silly question really 🤣......they ain't grey styrene, that's for sure

Precious little time available these days for modelling activities but I managed to get the 1st window fitted. The 2nd picture looks a bit iffy, doesn't it? But it's caught a reflection. There was a surface mark when I had a good look but it cleaned up and buffed away with metal polish on a cotton bud so that was a pleasing thing to sort. I shall persevere with this method, trying to avoid the masking 😷 I found time to have a read up on the Beagle. There is a "Mark 2" type with uprated engines and this may explain the 3blade props on some. It seems that Beagle were of the impression that they would supply 80 or so to the RAF but like many other UK companies they were stuffed by the powers that be. I think the MoD purchased 20 or so, leaving Beagle's costing and business plan in shreds. The 206 did OK in the civil world though. The Australian Flying Doctor service used them too. Turns out that the plane is known as the Beagle 206, and 206S for the uprated version. The name Bassett is the RAF name for the type in their service, so I'll update the title here I guess. Not much else to report on the build though

The crew members are looking a bit more like it. The large helmets have been filed to a more normal head size and then peaks for caps have been added. Some of the military harness details are removed and the rest can be done with paint. I want to try and do better this time with the windows. It's not a process I like.....🫢 but look, there's only 4 of them incl the one in the door plus the windscreen. How hard can that be?! It's the masking for painting thing that challenges me. To start with, I've removed the big internal flange from one of the transparencies.... That's it in the middle, and the other one on the left is as it comes in the box. The window can be pushed to the right depth to bring it flush with the fuselage surface. The fuselage sides have had some white applied inside and out and I'm hoping to get away with fitting the windows cleanly and no masking will be needed. That's plan A.

I dropped in to the Local yesterday as I have a DCH 2 Beaver on nonurgent order, to see if it's in yet. Well,the answer was No- Airfix time is measured in months ,apparently...... But as compensation I spotted this on the Vintage Classics shelf, just waiting for a new home. I've done one already and really enjoyed the project, and the little plane is a real Looker. Plus Chris @bigbadbadge has just finished a lovely example which has put the thought of another Bassett right up in my mind 😀 I popped the box open when I got home....... and the next thing you know I'm carving plastic 🧚‍♂️🧚‍♀️🧚 I have plans for this one. My 1st build was pretty straightforward and I learned a few things along the way. This wee plane is a serious tailsitter and maximum effort is required to get her to stand with her tail up and nose wheel on the ground. I made use of some of the RAF decals and printed some general civil decor. The whole airframe is finished in a half-shiny white. But there's an alternative type, in fact there may be a few alternatives- some aircraft are fitted with 3blade props and I'd guess upgraded engines. The main item I'm trying for is the different passenger door layout, and I got straight onto the change It's the port side fuselage that's getting carved, And the cabin floor is extended a little and a different seating area layout. The rear bulkhead will be omitted- there's cargo stowage behind the rear seats anyway .And any contribution to adding lightness to the tail end is welcome The door survived quite well and I think it'll do the job once the window has been added. Much of the raised riveting and surface detail has been removed already and I had a try to demilitarise one of the bone-dome helmeted aircrew. This little plane features a pair of flaps with slats and pylons much in the style of the Bae Hawk. I'm thinking I should have a go at deploying them 🤔 So I'm under way, everything else pushed to the side....the 2nd one is always easier, isn't it?😇

THAT'S the kinda girl I'm talking about....!😎😀👍 Village accessories included, should get interesting

I built the MG TC kit in 1.16 MANY years ago, I think I splashed out with my student Grant money one term. (In case any youngsters are wondering, they used to GIVE you money to go to uni, rather than charging a ransome.....sorry). It survived for decades in my Dad's house and then with me, loosing the odd bit. I dig it out occasionally and look and ponder some scratch repairs and a makeover. Did this recently and put it away again. And then I spotted this on a good auction site.... .....put in a bid and BOOM.....got it! Arrived earlier this week. I'm thinking I can clone some parts like a windscreen and hood, maybe copy some MG wingnuts? So,head full of ideas and schemes, no plastic bashing yet. May end up with 2 TCs. Looking at scalemates it seems my first effort was with one of the really early issues, but I can't remember the box art. Well, one more for old time's sake!😎👍

I always enjoy a bit of creative thinking on homemade decor 😀 I've had a few satisfying outcomes by thinking sideways. The issue with colour printing on clear is the lack of covering power, a uniform background is required and white is ideal as it reflects the light which then shines through the colour, almost like a stained glass window. Yellow is probably the weakest of all. Your plan for a white base paint job with clear over sounds good. And no, laser can't do white print, but laser printed (on laser grade decal paper) is waterproof straight from the printer, no need to seal the surface like inkjet print. As for the correct fonts etc, I've even resorted to hand-drawn letters on graph paper, drawn and painted. large about 40mm high, scanned and then reduced massively to the right size for the model. This process eliminates any wobbles or irregularity in the drawn graphics Good luck with the P80, I just finished a Saggin Dragon Airfix, just need the correct gloss blue to match the decals for finishing around the nose. 👍

That sounds arduous!! Well done 👏 Now, more importantly..........😄

OK, sorry about your Dad's situation, best wishes on that 👍 These toolings are quite Vintage in origin but there was a great range available at one time, of subjects that are unique in modelling. I took an interest when I got 2 Protar kits at a reasonable price. I've done the Gilera 500. Now that one had a rubber band supplied for the final drive chain ❗️ Can't see what you have got for the Triumph there, maybe the hoop on the "rubbery sprue??" So you might end up with a bit of scratch work 😇. But results are very rewarding especially in this size. Best of luck, with your Dad and the bike

All OK with the Triumph?? Hope so....I like these bike kits. I think I'm right in thinking these 1.9 scale bikes are originally Protar kits, and Italieri now have the tooling. So that would explain the absence of part numbers on the sprues. At least you have them numbered on the diagram, that's a major development from Italieri. Looking like a very presentable Triumph civilian machine could be made from this box of fun 😀

I'm definitely looking forward now to see how the Auster comes together. I had a go with the little reissued Airfix Antarctic kit...on floats 😃. But there's no doubt it's a bit small to work on in 1.72 as it's a small aircraft. So this should be good! As for an accidentally Dominie T1 ....BONUS!❗️💕

Reckon you have ramped up the sales for this little Vintage Classics gem, Chris. It's gonna be "single type group build" material 😎 Gallery shots look great 👍

Yeah, all kinds of 3dimensional perspective factors start playing tricks, type of lens on the camera, tail sitting, swept back(a little)wings. Measuring to the top surface or bottom surface, or a middle datum line?🤯🤩 More relaxation required, I think. And those gun port covers....🔍

Here we go, photos in the gallery 😃 This has been an enjoyable diversion and thanks for your company along the way. Wouldn't mind getting my hands on a few more Pyro kits. That's a lot of fun in a small box 🤩

Just putting the finishing touches to this lovely old-school kit, built old-school style with what is in the box. And decorated as the box artwork would have it. I still haven't found any reference pictures of this particular car with the running boards and flared front mudguards, 2seats, not drilled for lightness like the SSKL racer, yellow bodywork over black, and a split windscreen.... But that's what you get from Pyro. Very enjoyable recreational build. Not too many Pyros getting featured here on BM, probably not up to the modern standards of plastic kits. One thing that needed reworking was the position of the rear axle when the wheels went on. The ride was way too high and the tyres rubbed inside the front of the mudguards. A bit of re-engineering was required. I managed to include some steering deflection on the front wheels too, and I'm enjoying the colour scheme, glad I went ahead with the kit styling 👌 Here she is.... Well, are you feeling nostalgic yet?? 😄

There we are, all present and correct 😇 Now let's see if I can get it looking pretty....

Right, just about done here with the SSK... ....except for one thing 🫢 I took the bonnet off for a couple of pictures and found that I have only done one of the support struts that reach across to the radiator. The kit part is a big hairpin shape single piece that puts the radiator attachment points too close together. I'm doing them as 2 individual rods, but I forgot about the 2nd one. I have a suspicion that I've used the remaining part in the repair to the windscreen frame but not to worry, there's a few other bits around that will do the job nicely 😀. If I get a few rfi pictures together I'll put a link. But I'd better get the support strut sorted first 👍

I'm currently pleased with the Kristal Kleer, left in peace it's done the job 😇👍 The windscreen is on.... Having achieved assembly of the screens to the frame, I had a look at attachment to the bodywork, at which point I broke one of the attachment pins that locate in holes. I guess they are supposed to flex just enough to let the pins spread and then click into the holes. Well, it was not to be. I cleared a trench in the yellow paintwork and honed the bottom edge of the screen frame to get a tidy, unforced fit and applied the glue, making use of the one good pin. A piece of stretched sprue was glued into the other hole and a tiny upstand added to complete the missing shape. The piece of sprue is cut overlong and protruding on the driver's side. Easily trimmed of course, but I'm wondering about adding a rear view mirror on that little stalk. I could try it and if it's a fail I can cut it back and ditch the idea 💡 I had left a chunk of sprue frame attached to the rear end of the chassis for handling purposes and very useful it has been throughout the build. It has now been ceremoniously removed as the build reaches its final stages. In fact there's one little radiator cap and emblem to attach to the radiator top and that's basically it. Box empty!😎

You could always do another one, on the civil register....!😇😃 Just sayin...... It does look ace in the RAF Transport Command scheme though 👌

Thanks for that, @Spiny, sometimes you take a look and wonder if you're on the right track....🤔 I've ticked a few more items on the list. Front wheels are permanently on. This was achieved by means of a little skinny plastic washer, in white here... The wheel outer has been removed from the tyre and the washer made to be a neat fit on the protruding stub axle. Just a touch of ca glue. The outer was shaved back slightly on the hub area to make sure there was enough clearance for the skinny washer, and then pushed back on. Then the wingnut just glues on the outer. Rear springs are reinstated with no real problems, And the exhaust pipes are on. That point where it crosses over the chassis member is the place to make the serious attachment. With that and the 3 engine manifold points attached, it's on. A bit of finicky filing and easing was required on the slots in the side of the bonnet to let it fit over the pipes. Headlamps are attached.... Can't say I'm delighted with these, esp the one on the left- kind of got a dark ring around the lens. Well, they're on There was something else...... Yeah, the windscreen is under way... I've had a couple of failures with using Kristal Kleer white adhesive for transparencies. But I like how it doesn't foul up the clear parts with fog and solvent. And I wanted to preserve the chrome look of the frame from inside. So no chrome removed 😕 and I'm trying out with the k Kleer. This could be it's best chance at being a useful glue. I'll give it some time before any other work

I'd put money on that being a Jaguar rear axle assembly on the corner of your cutting mat....🧐

Here's the results of my endeavours last night with the back axle arrangements.... I took the whole subframe out and removed the leaf springs. I realised that the top of the differential could be built with strips of 1mm plastic to give the required height. And enough room was available in the recess in the fuel tank for the axle to move back. So the back axle is now glued to the floor pan 2 blocks have been added to give something to work with as I install the leaf springs. I felt it was more important to get the position right and then fuss with the springs, rather than relying on them to get the axle into the right place. Some strange sort of radius arms were included on the original part, the remains of them are still there in front of the differential. They may have been a half-hearted attempt to represent the rear suspension dampers.They are orientated sideways on the rear. Well, I'm not too worried about them. The gap created on the drive shaft by moving the axle back can be seen there. Only a couple of mm but that's what was needed.

I'd recommend it! Such a lovely result from some old-school plastic. It's another serious tailsitter though. Just about impossible without the use of the stairs to support the tail end.

The operation went well, patient convalescing and looks more like it after a good night's rest. No time for photo this morning....😀