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Sancho Panzer

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Everything posted by Sancho Panzer

  1. Hi Jim @Jim Wasley I have never played Warhammer; my son used to play and that was what started me painting their figures. They do make nice figures, although I agree they are expensive. The Space Marines with yellow armour that you have seen are probably the ‘Imperial Fist’ figures. Here’s one that I painted a couple of years ago - the character is Captain Lysander.
  2. Thanks for the kind comments and feedback. @SoerenI will sand back some of the texturing on the mantle and surround - I agree it looks a bit too rough. On some of the other parts I used this stippling technique and then gently rubbed the surface with my fingertip after waiting a few minutes. This evens out the 'peaks' and makes the texture look less like a 1/35 hedgehog. I have had this kit sitting in a cupboard for around 3 years and now I've got around to building I decided to try the upgrade route instead of splashing out on a lovely Dragon JP. In hindsight it would definitely have been cheaper - and simpler - to go for the Dragon kit rather than the Tamiya + PE option. This does provide a more challenging project though, and I do actually like working with PE. Perhaps I am just weird. @BlackMax12 thanks for this info - I didn't realise that the late JP's used different tracks. I think that since I already have the Bronco tracks I'll stick with them for this build and accept a few faults. I can foresee a late Dragon JP with all the correct details at some point in my future......!! I hope to make some time to continue with the kit this weekend and will upload more progress shots, with descriptions. Cheers, Andrew
  3. Hi All, here's a few shots of the Jagpanther I am working on; I'm aimimg for an Ardennes/late war version and will put this into a winter vignette with crew (Alpine) and possibly an infantryman on foot. I decided to detail the kit with PE as some of the detail is missing on the kit or is overscale. I am using a combination of soldering and cycanoacrylate where appropriate. Adam Wilder's DVD/web contect around PE are an excellent reference for this work. I also bought some Bronco Panther tracks out of interest to see how they look and how easy they are to put together. They look a bit fiddly to me, although will update when I get to that stage. I set about the upper hull with a Dremel, razor saw and scalpel. I got a bit carried away on the fron R front fender and had to put some plastic back into place to support the PE fender. Oops. I then obliterated the aiming periscope sliding cover and replaced it with Aber PE. I also textured the various cast components with Mr Surfacer 500 to get that rough look found on these parts. I used a small stiff-bristled brush that I cut square and after allowing the Mr Surfacer to dry for about 30 seconds used a stippling action to get the texture. I also filled the weld seams with Perfect putty and used the end of a cocktail stick to get the rippled surface of the welds. I'm currently working on the rear of the hull and engine deck so there's more to follow - thanks for looking, comments are welcome! Cheers, Andrew
  4. Hi @amblypygid, Thanks again - you could use an ultra-fine permanent ink marker (e.g. Pilot 0.1mm drawing pen) to get the basic design layout as they work on acrylics. I've used these pens for lettering and script on various figures in the past. Then you can fill in the outline with the background colour and work out from there. It's probably just a case of trying a few techniques and finding the one that works for you. Cheers, Andrew
  5. I also painted over the twin-tailed comet on the front of the banner, as I preferred the look of the NMM comet that I pained on the reverse. It now looks a little bit like the 'golden snitch' from the Quidditch game in the Harry Potter movies, which wasn't intentional...... The 'ivy' vine and leaves on the base were sculpted from Green Stuff, and the skull was taken from a WH skeletons set.
  6. Here are the final WIP shots showing the painting of the figure and sword using NMM, and fixing to the completed base:-
  7. Hi @amblypygid, there's no great secret I'm afraid, it's just lots and lots of layers of heavily thinned acrylic, blending and building up the highlights. I used both GW and Vallejo colours, diluted with water, Vallejo thinner medium plus flow aid and retarder which helps with the paint flow and hence control when painting these fine details. I use good quality sable brushes and for this kind of work would probably use a 00. Any smaller than this and I find that the brush doesn't carry enough paint. I painted the cloak 'as is' after forming the folds as I had to fit and shape it to the figure to get the size and shape correct. I think it would have been damaged if I'd done this after painting. Also the cross design was quite compact and didn't cross too many ridges and valleys. With the banner I folded it before painting to check the overall effect; I then unfolded it to almost flat for painting - I intentionally left gentle folds so that I would know where to highlight and shade. As the foil is very thin it is easily bent back into the folded state - acrylics are very flexible when dry so there is no problem bending after painting, at least not to form the type of gentle curves found in fabric. I could perhaps do a step-by-step of something similar on a piece of copper foil if that would be useful? Here's a photo of the finished figure which shows how folded the banner was in the end:-
  8. Hi @amblypygid, thanks for your kind comments - I don't have any more shots of the banner in progress I'm afraid - I can always take more of the finished banner if you'd like to see any details? Yes, Canterbury is a great plave to live! Cheers, Andrew
  9. Next came the reverse of the banner - again a selection of Empire icons painted freehand in NMM. Trying for size, still to paint NMM border on banner. The pennant is a strip of brass foil and the finial on the pole is cut from another Empire kit. I've also started painting the base.
  10. The next part of the build was to create the base. I used a GW square base and sculpted some stone steps using Milliput. The post is a wooden dowel which conveniently was already fluted like a piece of stonework. The post is topped off with a heraldic animal taken from the helmet of a Warhammer knight. By this point I had chosen a head - this one came from an Empire Cannon crew kit. I was reasonably happy with the composition and moved onto painting. I decided to only use the Non Metallic Metal (NMM) technique on this figure as I thought it would add to the challenge. I'm a bit weird like that. I started with the cloak - I figured if it didn't work out too well I could always repaint. I had a look through lots of Warhammer Empire references and decided that this cross and skull would be worth a try as a freehand design. I started with the silver NMM and then did the gold NMM. Sorry that the secon image is a bit out of focus... I then moved onto the banner - again using images and icons from various Warhammer Empire references - the Uniforms book and various things I found online. I blocked in the background of a skeleton with a scythe a banner and a 'Sigmar' comet. One of the great things about Warhammer is that the 'backstories' are so complete that it is always easy to find inspiration. I stuck with the 'Germanic' theme, given the number of German references in the Empire/Freeguild world.
  11. Hi All, here's a WIP of an Empire Standard Bearer that I built and painted a while back. I used an Empire Captain (who now seems to have been promoted to 'Freeguild General' !!) as the basis, with a little bit of cusomisation to get the appearance of a battle-hardened campaigner grimly defending his banner. The pose of the figure lent itself to standing on steps - I decided to represent the figure on part of a spiral stone staircase. I decided to scratchbuild the base around the figure, keeping with the Empire/Freeguild theme of castles and the like. As the figure was for display I felt that the kit cloak was too thick and I wanted a large banner that I could paint a freehand design onto. I chose to make both of these from copper foil - it would also be easier to paint freehand onto a flat banner and add folds later. I cut away the body of the cloak and made a foil replacement, using the original plastic part as a template, pressing the foil onto it to transfer the folds. I used cyanoacrylate to join the foil to the plastic. I then made a square banner with tabs to form loops around the pole; here it is in a prototype mock-up and after priming. I ceated folds by wrapping around a brush handle although flattened them back out prior to painting. I cut the figures left arm off at the elbow to make painting easier and to reposition it later. Traces of red paint from a previous abandoned project with this figure are still visible on the left foot. More to follow...... Thanks for looking, Andrew
  12. Hi @Plasto, a fantastic Jagdpanzer IV - one of my favourite WW2 AFVs - and the disc pattern camo scheme is excellent; the result was definitely worth all the effort of cutting the discs and masking. Also I like the weathering details including the dead leaves, I have had one of these kits in my stash for a couple of years and I am now feeling inspired by yours! Cheers, Andrew
  13. Hi Jim, beautiful figures - I like the figures on the black horses as it gives a good contrast to the uniforms. I love the picture of them charging over the bridge, Cheers, Andrew
  14. Hi Jim @Jim Wasley, thanks again - yes Warhammer/GW do make some amazing figures - whilst I liked the older metal figures the more recent plastic and resin figure are excellent. They have some great sculptors and artists. Cheers, Andrew
  15. Hi @f matthews thanks for your very kind comments - the camouflage pattern was challenging although was fun to do. Cheers, Andrew
  16. Thanks @Hewy- this is the first Alpine figure I've painted and it was a really nice figure, excellent detail and a great pose. I expect I'll be buying few more Alpine figures in future, Cheers, Andrew
  17. Hi All, here's a Warhammer Vampire Counts Necromancer figure that I painted a while ago. I really liked the creepy pose of this figure and I always enjoy painting these little skulls that seem to be everywhere in both the WH and 40K universe. I painted him in the classic Vampire Counts red and black scheme using Vallejo acrylics.
  18. Many thanks @Schwarz-Brot for your kind comments. I really enjoyed painting this figure, Cheers, Andrew
  19. Hi Jim, many thanks for your kind comments. I know exactly what you mean about her - definitely the kind of woman that your mother wouldn't approve of 😉 Cheers, Andrew
  20. Hi Jason, thanks for your kind comments - yes enlarging images of figures on screen can be a bit alarming and I always think 'I could have done that better', although it can be a good way to spot errors too . For the flesh tones I used a couple of colours from the Vallejo Face/Skin paint set, although I only used the lighter pinks in the set as I wanted the figure to look pale. I blended these with either white for highlights or a red-brown for shadows; I kept the contrasts quite narrow and the transitions smooth as I didn't want the figure to look muscular. I used four tones and I highlighted up to almost pure white. I generally pick a mid-tone for flesh and then work out from there by mixing on a palette with wells which keeps the paint wet for longer. All the flesh painting was done using multiple layers of heavily thinned paints, gradually building up the highlights and shadows. I use Vallejo thinner medium and water and I go up to 1:3 paint:thinner or more when painting multiple layers. A drop or two of retarder and flow medium in the thinning mix also helps to get even layers and gives a slightly longer drying time. I tend to prefer doing lots of almost transparent layers rather than going for thicker layers as this gives more control - it is easier to add more layers, whereas it is pretty difficult to 'undo' a layer that is too thick. The only non-Vallejo paint was the eye-shadow which is crimson oil paint thinned with turpentine - I used this because if it didn't look right it could be easily removed with a turpentine-moist brush without disturbing the dried acrylics. Andrew
  21. Hi Jim, thanks for your kind comments; much appreciated. I hope to go back and paint the remainder of the set at some point, along with the rest of the 40K & Warhammer figure stash that I have!! Cheers, Andrew
  22. This is truly superb - amazing photoetch and detailing work, and the interior looks fantastic. I can't wait to see the finished project - I know it will be exceptional.
  23. Hi All, here's a WH40K Ultramarines Chapter Master that I finished a while back. He was part of a set of metal figures - I still haven't got around to any of the others as this one was my favourite. I painted him using GW/Citadel acrylics. Thanks for looking, Andrew
  24. Hi All, here are some images of a Warhammer Dark Elves Sorceress that I completed a while ago. I have also posted a work in progress thread of this figure. Thanks for looking, Andrew
  25. Hi All, this is a WIP of a Warhammer Dark Elves Sorceress that I completed a while back. This figure was for display and I wanted to create a dramatic base to match the dynamic pose of the figure. I decided to construct an enchanted, gravity-defying staircase that the Sorceress had conjured up from rocks. I used pieces of cork bark threaded onto a piece of wire and super-glued the assembly together. The base was painted and shaded using washes and drybrushing. Next stage was painting - I used Vallejo acrylics with their retarder medium which allows time for blending. The skin tones were applied in thin layers to build them up. After base coating in black, I used Humbrol MetalCote for the armoured clothing (such as it is!) The rune on the cloth is the symbol of a Dark Elf goddess, painted in NMM. I protected the base with kitchen roll and masking tape during the painting process as it was quite fragile. Pretty much finished. Thanks for looking, Andrew
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