Graham D

True. Nail varnish remover is a lot more forgiving, if messier

You can also use heat to unstick CA. I use a hot soldering iron against the joint until you get a small puff of smoke, which is the glue evaporating. Just don't breath in the fumes. On larger pieces ( for 1/72 and larger) I use a small butane power blow torch, which I wave over the joint, until the glue evaporates.

If you can get the 1/200 HMS Hood for £130, then that is a very good deal, I believe that the normal retail price over £300

I use LifeColor paints, they have a good range of colours, here are the life color paints: Admiralty Light Grey 507 C [UA633] Dark Blue Black MS1 [UA634] MS2 [UA 605] Dark Blue-Grey B5 [UA636] Hope this helps Graham

Very nice clean PE

Thanks for the info.

Hi just seen your excellent build. I am currently building this kit with GLS photo etch. Doing the bandstand and the shell carriers. What I would like to know is the thickness of the rigging thread you used? Thanks

I forgot to mention that I used 1/350 eyelets from L'Arsenal to attach the rigging to the superstructure

Here is a model I did a few years ago, the Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Hood. A great model to build. It came with a small amount of PE, but I bought the Pontos detail up set for it, and the Eduard set, as my cat knocked it onto the floor while I was still building it, and destroyed some of the PE that I had already used, so I replaced the damaged parts with the Eduard PE.

Yes, the Revell kit is the one to get if you are thinking of getting a Bismark. The detail is far superior.

Here are some pictures of the Tamiya Bismark. The amount of PE I used to improve this kit, I should have just bought the Revell kit. I use White Ensign decking, Flyhawk and Eduard PE. I know the guns are showing brass inside, but I did not notice this until I took these pictures!

The picture is now displayed

Thanks for letting me know I will try to fix it this evening

As the kit is the B variant it only had one float. If I wasn't doing the conversion I would have used the kit float. The float is quite detailed, not quite as detailed as the aftermarket ones. The rudder detail is a bit lacking, but you can get after market ones.

Thanks. The floats cost 17€

Personal choice in this case

For the markings, I used some pre-cut aftermarket masks. I cannot remember which make I used. The kiit goes together very well without any problems, except the cockpit canopy; It is a pain to put together. I used PVA (R/C Modellers Craft Glue) to stick the canopy together. A the glue dries clear and glue on the clear plastic does not show up and the angle of the canopy sides remains flexible, so that they can be altered to fit the cockpit opening even after the glue has dried.

Here is a model I did for my son. He bought the kit and then decided it was too complicated for him, so he gave it to me to do.

This was the Revell Arado 196 B kit, but I wanted it to be as was on the Bismark, so I converted it using HPH floats. The crosses and registration number are painted rather than decals

Here is a ship I made quite a few years ago. Unfortunately it was destroyed by one of my cats.

Hi I have been back modelling for about 5 years after a 35 year hiatus. My main interest is marine modelling. I have just started the Revell 1/72 Flower class corvette with Great Little Ships PE. My recent builds include, at 1/350; the Bismark, HMS Hood, USS Indianapolis, HMS Warspite and USS New York. I will post some pictures of my completed builds in the appropriate forums. Graham