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Everything posted by Slywolff

  1. Sorry for the delay in posting more distance photos.... Regards Simon
  2. Hello, This is my build of the Sword Skyraider, I folded the wings using the Airwaves photo etch set which is meant for the Hasegawa kit but with slight modification it will work with the Sword kit! I also changed the markings using both the kit decals and those from Avalon, to an aircraft that landed on HMAS Melbourne although I have not been able to replicate the Roo zap! The Airwaves photo etch set....
  3. Hello Well this model project is now finished, well finished as far as I am concerned I have run out of steam.... I will be posting all the photos of the completed model in Ready for Inspection. The finished model goes well with all my other FAA carrier types.. Cheers Simon
  4. Hello, Well it is time that I finished this build off and moved on to all the other projects! I have put on all the remaining decals, attached the tail hook and did some touch up of the paint.... tomorrow I hope to be able to attach the folded wings and mark her as finished or well pretty well done bat something I can't be bothered to do. One error is the kit decals for the canopy don't go all the way round! The kit decals are generally pretty good and take a lot of handling... odd though they give you yellow decals for the prop tips but don't mention them! Some of the decals should be left off such as the yellow lines around the fuselage doors... they are not appropriate..
  5. Hi Ed I found my original post on Hyperscale and this was the response I got from one person.... 'Probably carburetor heat. Ice can develop in the carburetor venturi if the humidity levels are right. Warmed air from a heat shroud around exhaust piping (not exhaust) is used to introduce warmer air into the carburetor. The tube sticking out of the port side would be the exit for the heat/exhaust.' Photos to follow....
  6. Hi Chris, The Avalon roundels look to me to be more purple in colour, which is sad... but I could not find anything else either in my decals spares box or on the web as a suitable replacement! Maybe ModelDecal will do something to help solve this problem. Could be they used those photos.... Simon
  7. Hi Bill Sorry but the book has no interior photos but I did find this on the web... Could this help? Simon Thanks for sharing that, some very useful information in that post! Cheers Simon
  8. Well here we go using the Avalon Decals, which I am not too fussed about.. the roundel blue looks wrong and the decal alignment is not too good either. But see what you think? I'm not doing any of the decal schemes but that of an RN Skyraider that landed on HMAS Melbourne and got zapped with a roo.... not sure if I will be able to replicate that zap!
  9. Hi Chris, Just to give you a heads up the decals blue colour isn't quite right.... and the registration on my decals was pretty mediocre! Simon
  10. Hi Bill, Yes I am happy to do that, let me just clarify you would like photos of the area behind the pilots cockpit..... the exterior? Simon
  11. Hi Ed, Fair enough I shall do some photos showing the whole model and post them up. I used the Ian K Baker Reference for the Bulldog as he had a Nivo colour sample, well his interpretation of it... I tend to think it was not a green as shown on the RAF Museum example or anywhere else.... just my humble opinion based on no evidence at all bar the Ian K Baker information. :-) I recall Pentland thought it was black. As for the red circled item no it is no starter handle and I did post a question on Hyperscale about it and I guy came back with an answer on what he thought it was... now I just need to find that response to recall what it was.... I do say I used the Model Alliance decals just I used the Red Roo illustration for reference. Simon
  12. Hi Tom, Thank you, sorry for the confusion, I used the Model Alliance RAAF Bulldog decals which I felt were a bit thick.. (I used the Red Roo illustration only to show the scheme) I can't vouch for the Red Roo decals but I suspect they may be better but I couldn't get hold of any!! I suspect they may be out of production. No I believe all Bulldogs had the formation lights, my point was I lost two of these to the carpet monster and had to scratch build the replacement very - very carefully!!!
  13. Hi Chris, Happy to oblige. Yes lots of photos help, as the instructions in places is woeful for locating some parts I also forgot to mention two parts are incorrectly numbered…. Part 48?? I think. Hi Steve, thank you!
  14. Thank you. The propeller is just completely wrong for all Bulldogs, for starters the blades are the wrong way round, in my opinion it’s not really fixable (I tried) the Kora ones are pretty good and not that expensive.
  15. Hello, I started this project some months ago, various delays due trying to finding an accurate colour paint for it. Its a typical eastern European kit with its quirks around part fits and the instruction sheet, but it is a nicely detailed kit with a good selection of decals. I have chosen do to mine as a RN FAA aircraft with the wings folded, Airwaves do a photo etch wing fold for the Hasegawa kit, but with some tweaking it works on this kit as well.... This is the Airwaves set available from Hannants. I picked up this publication from the FAA Museum back in 1991 on a trip to the UK The kit instructions in places need a lot of careful studying such as where these undercarriage bay parts go.. it is not all that clear!! The ends of the wings folds needed tidying up with plastic card.. The wing join was pretty poor so I added strips of plastic card rather than putty but a stronger bond The kit comes with a very nicely detailed resin engine just that its location if not too clear so it needs these bits added otherwise it wobbles about.. Again some filler needed around the radome.. The SMS paint is an acrylic lacquer: The kit decal roundels are wrong the blue is too dark fortunately Avalon decals do a set for the FAA Skyraiders available from Hannants This is where I am up to now: As to how to attach the folded wings the strut shown here will be the way I go I can't see the p/e parts being strong enough to hold the wings in place!
  16. Very nice Beaufort you have there. High Planes are producing a set to convert the Airfix kit to an RAAF variant, which looks of a higher standard.. might be worth the wait their Spit Vc set is superb.
  17. Good evening, This is my build of the Airfix Bristol Bulldog put as an RAAF version, seeing that it is the centenary of the RAAF! It is a great kit but has its issues such as the propeller is completely wrong and needs replacing in this case Kora do a resin propeller or you might get one from the spares box? The decals came from Model Alliance and weren't the best but they were thick and malleable!! I added a Yahu replacement instrument panel, a new seat (poto etched) from the spares box. This is the Red Roo cover but the same aircraft markings as per Model Alliance decals... The kit propeller The replacement resin prop: The RAAF variants had this addition... plus this I have since varnished the prop,, I used Bare Metal Foil for the nose section... The decals for the rudder didn't work out (my fault) so I painted them.. And lost the port side light! It is still a lovely kit with some elbow grease around the three engine parts needed as there are some pretty horrid gaps, but the wings line up quite well! I also based the Nivo on some local reference and not the usual green you see this kit painted incorrectly with.... there that should start a conversation! Regards Simon
  18. It is a rough old kit, I painted it Humbrol 87 a blue ish grey following a post from a modeller in Spain! Some nice interior detail.. The Buchon was a kit I built in 1985 (?) using parts from an Airfix 109E and a Frog or Heller 109F and various scratch parts... The kit lacks wing fences and cannons... The single part canopy is massively thick!! But I decided to separate tha canopy in to the open position. The wheels are wrong the replacements were donated by a friend from a late model AZ 109.. I also made the wing lights.. Look ma no cannon or wing fences, how???
  19. I only tried it on models with Enamel paint, so I don't know about acrylics, it is a slow process and I found through experience that it will not work with all paints.. for example thick gloss enamel was harder to remove. What I did was to pour bleach in to something plastic like and ice cream container (minus ice cream!) put the painted model in the bleach put the lid on and just leave it for a few days, I then scrubber the model clean of all the old paint which had since bleaching become discoloured. However I have since learnt that oven will do a much quicker job! You just need to make sure there is plenty of fresh air and I suggest wearing a mask to avoid inhaling the fumes, I paint stripped an old Airfix Hawker Hart one afternoon using this method, spray it on the model let it soak in and then using an old toothbrush just scrub the paint off, the paint had been on the model for some decades but it took the lot off, I can't recall the name of the Oven cleaner but if try Googling the process, I think it might have been Easy Oven off or something similar!!
  20. This kit was originally built by my older brother, many many many years ago, sometime in the eighties I discovered that you could paint strip built using bleach models. This kit was one amongst many that was drowned in bleach and never touched again. Well I discovered this kit recently, in my Spares Box... and having built a few airfield vehicles thought this would make a good addition... not realizing there were parts missing, but thanks to friends I was able to assemble most of the missing parts. I've painted her in much the same colour as she originally built, Humbrol 26 .... the decals were also donated and a kit crumbly, they took a lot of work to get them to stay put and stay together..
  21. The project is completed and I have posted photos on Ready for Inspection!! Cheers Simon
  22. Hello, This is the Airfix Dauntless with some parts replaced with Hasegawa parts, care of a modelling mate here in Australia who kindly gave me this kit and a spare sprue of Hasegawa parts and decals, I replaced the inaccurate kit wheel with resin aftermarket ones (meant for the Hasegawa kit but can be altered to suit),and the horrid kit canopy parts which are really not usable at all, replaced with Falcon vacform canopy parts designed for the Airfix kit. I have posted all the work on Work in Progress.... the kit needs some work to make it more accurate, e.g. the bomb bay is totally inaccurate! But otherwise it is not bad for a 1967 kit. The Hasegawa parts used were the cockpit interior, engine, mast and pitot tube, tail hook, smaller bombs and the decals! The decals had a tough time conforming to the riveted Airfix kit so I had to use a mixture of Micro Sol and Gunze Sangyo Mr Mark Softener...
  23. Well since last we met! I've got quite a bit done, with luck this will be finished by the end of this week! For the Sea Grey I used a Model Masters enamel bottle (almost said tin) 1720, which I read somewhere was a perfect match for a Dauntless pulled out of Lake Michigan, well it does look good as a colour match but these machines were so worn and weathered I'm not sure it matters too much! The upper surface pre shading did not go as well as I had hopped, but I am still learning so... Masking tape and Silly Putty did the job.. On to the Falcon Canopy for the Dauntless kit, this vacform canopy set is designed for the Airfix kit, mind you the Airfix canopy parts are unusable.. and I don't feel the Hasegawa ones need replacing at all! I have also attached the resin replacement wheels and attached the kit u/c doors. The gunners canopy I think should have been two parts on its own... you can see what I mean by the photos: Next, I have to paint the holes of the dive brakes red.. all two hundred plus of the.... pardon me if I don't rush that process!!!! Just found these which I'll quickly include.. older progress shots: The canopies after separation... I recently bought one of these multiple kit parts holders and it is so dead useful!! Wish I had obtained one before now..
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