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Found 4 results

  1. Fw.190A-4 Photo-Etch, Masks & Decals (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Launched to coincide with the release of their new Fw.190A-4 kit, which we reviewed here, Eduard have created a host of sets that can be used to improve on the already impressive level of detail found in the box. There are so many sets that we will break them down between Photo-Etch (PE) and resin Brassin sets, and once posted, we'll cross link them for completeness. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The decals are in a ziplok type bag, stiffened by a cover sheet and a piece of white card to keep them safe. Fw.190A-4 Upgrade Set (48937) This PE sheet is bare brass, and builds upon the detail of the kit and included PE that comes with the ProfiPACK boxing. It contains a canopy latch for the cockpit; ammo chute details; additional gear bay sidewall skins; new dual-layer gear leg covers with brake hoses and tie-down loops; bomb shackle details; gear bay retraction jack parts (including additional hosing); gun port surrounds; cockpit armour support, raised strip on the canopy and a frame that attaches to the outside of the windscreen. Seatbelts STEEL (FE863) In case you don't already know, they are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Fw.190A Landing Flaps (48936) Eduard landing flaps use an ingenious technique to achieve excellent true-to-scale flaps using few parts, and requiring the modeller to simply remove the retracted flaps from the lower wing, plus scrape the upper wings to accommodate the thickness of the completed bays. Each half of the flap (bay and flap itself) is constructed in the same manner, by twisting and folding over the attached ribs to create a 3D shape. The bay glues to the inside of the upper wing and the flap attaches to the rear wall of the new bay. Repeat this for the other side, and you're almost done. The bays have a "dimpled" panel, which is laminated to the bay after pressing the details through with the tip of a ball-point pen, and in this instance the flaps fold up simply into a roughly triangular profile, with a strip running through the middle, the location for which is shown on a scrap diagram. Masks (EX565) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Fw.190A Stencils (D48029) If you have a kit with no stencils from Eduard or another manufacturer, have stuffed up your existing set (we're only human afterall), or are looking for spares in case you do, this set of the stencils included with the kit will be of interest. It is printed to Eduard's usual high standard in Czechia (the new name for the Czech Republic if you didn't know) and comes with a colour diagram that shows where each one should go on the airframe. Brassin Resin Sets for Engine & Gun Bays These additional sets can be found in a separate review here to save your scrolling finger. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Focke-Wulf Fw.190A Update Sets (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Launched to coincide with the release of their new Fw.190A-4 kit, which we reviewed here, Eduard have created a host of sets that can be used to improve on the already impressive level of detail found in the box. There are so many sets that we will break them down between Photo-Etch (PE) and resin Brassin sets, and once posted, we'll cross link them for completeness. As usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin rectangular box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions wrapped around them. The smaller set is supplied in their clear clamshell box with similar protection afforded by grey foam, and the instructions doubling as the header card. Some of the sets are specific to the A-4 variant, while others can be used across the whole range of A model 190s, which will be indicated in the sub headings. Fw.190A Wingroot Gun Bays (648356) This set permits the modeller to depict the wing root gun bays open, which first requires the removal of a portion of the upper wing from the kit parts, as indicated in red on the instructions. The lower wing is then fitted with blanking plates for the cartridge chutes and new resin barrels before attention turns to the new bay inserts. These have the gun breeches added along with a short length of 0.2mm wire from your own stock, arranged as per the scrap drawings, which helpfully have an arrow indicating the direction of flight. The bays are then inserted into the prepared aperture in the upper wing, and a PE bay lip is attached to the plastic to finish it off neatly. A small section of the lip that locates the wing spar will need removing, after which the wing halves can be mated and later in the build/painting the bay doors can be added to the lip that is moulded into the bays for a good strong joint. Fw.190A-4 Cockpit (648351) Consisting of resin, PE, decals and a small sheet of clear acetate film, the largest part of which is the cockpit tub with the aft decking and side consoles already moulded in. The separate seat is prepared with its cushion and a set of pre-painted PE seatbelts, and fitted to the tub after the removal of some moulding flash that is indicated in red. Resin control column, resin and PE rudder pedals, and the instrument panel are made up next, with the latter having the choice of using the PE panel with pre-printed dials, or a detailed resin part over which you apply a decal of the instruments. Your choice! The panel fits on ledges at the front of the side consoles, and the resin gunsight with PE and acetate parts slides into a groove in the upper panel. The cowling fits over the top, and it too has cut-outs that need clearing of flash beforehand. To fit the new cockpit inside the fuselage a pair of plastic wedges are removed from the inside, to be replaced with a detailed PE and resin trim wheel. The assemblies should then fit neatly within, alongside the kit bulkhead, assuming you aren't taking advantage of any of the other sets I'll be mentioning in this review. The set includes the opening mechanism and the pilot's head armour, which has a warning decal added to it after painting. The interior roll-over frame is resin, and has delicate PE bracing wires linking to the rear, all of which fits inside the canopy after painting. The canopy then installs as normal. Fw.190A-4 Engine (648352) Inside this unassuming box rests resin and PE parts to construct a complete engine for the deadly little Fw.190, which is so detailed due to Eduard's advanced prototyping and casting facilities. Incredibly, much of the detail is amalgamated into large parts to keep down the number of castings, starting with the two cylinder banks, onto which the exhaust collector pipework is attached. A PE wiring loom and resin ancillary plate are added to the rear, the remainder of the exhaust tubing and clustered outlet pipes surround this, followed by a complex assembly of flat and tubular frames that make up the engine mount. Another wiring loom is fitted to the front of the engine before the reduction housing and prop-shaft are inserted, after which the engine can be mounted to the fuselage. Red areas mark the parts of the fuselage cowling that should be removed, and four holes should be drilled in the plastic bulkhead to accommodate the engine mount parts, which clips within the fuselage halves and locates the assembly firmly within. The nose-ring mates to the remaining fuselage panels, and is joined by a replacement top panel with hoses added for extra detail. The missing panels are all supplied as thin resin parts, with exceptional detail, which is augmented by adding PE fasteners to the edges. They are shown posed open to the correct positions, and you can then choose to fit the kit prop, or leave it off and replace it with a shaft with splined ends if you wish. Colours are called out during construction in Gunze codes, which will help immensely with the complex task. Fw.190A-4 Engine & Fuselage Guns (648355) This set takes the engine set detailed above, and replaces the kit's blank internal bulkhead with a super-detailed alternative, to which the guns, ammo cans and additional plumbing are attached. You will also need some 0.3mm wire to complete the attachment of the gun breeches to the deck. The separate panel that covers the bay is also replaced by an exquisite resin part, with a set of PE fasteners installed around the sides of the bay for added detail. This complete set will allow the modeller to portray some maintenance and re-arming underway, and coupled with the wing gun-bay set with further enhance the candid look of the finished model. Fw.190A-4 Fuselage Guns (648354) If you just want to open up the gun bays, this set allows that by using the appropriate bulkhead parts from the full set (648355) alongside new parts that depict the rear of the engine in a slightly simplified manner, which will be dimly seen past the gun barrels. If you were to buy this set and the engine set separately (for whatever reason), you would end up with a few spare parts in the shape of the aforementioned engine rear plus its mount. Photo-Etch, Masks & Decals These additional sets can be found in a separate review here to save your scrolling finger. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Focke-Wulf Fw.190A-4 ProfiPACK (82142) 1:48 Eduard Introduced in 1941 to combat the ever-improving Spitfire, the Fw.190 was intended to supplant the Bf.109 if it reached a plateau in development, or run alongside it as a stablemate. Its powerful twin-bank radial engine was installed with a close-fitting cowling and was initially edquipped with an oversized, ducted prop-spinner to keep the engine cool, which was discarded early in development in favour of a fan that ran on the prop's drive-shaft to push air through the cylinder heads, which also facilitated oil cooling. It was also given a wide-track landing gear, which reduced the likelihood of a nose-over, a problem afflicting both the 109 and Spitfire, due to their narrow track and poor forward visibility. When it first encountered Spitfires, it gave the Allied pilots a shock, as they were expecting 109s, not these agile little aircraft. It caused an frenzy of development at Supermarine, which was just part of the leapfrog games played on both sides throughout the conflict. The initial A-1 production version was equipped with a BMW 801 engine, and by the time the A-4 was signed off, it had two 7.92mm guns in the cowling, and a pair of 20mm MG151 cannons in the wing root, all of which were synchronised with the prop's motion, in turn mated to a more powerful version of the BMW engine. There were a number of equipment fits used to give the Würger (Shrike) additional weapons and capabilities, including a pressurised cockpit, rocket tubes and reconnaissance cameras. The A-4 also saw limited service as the F-1 in a ground-attack role, and was eventually replaced by the A-5, which moved the centre-of-gravity forward to accommodate the larger load it was capable of carrying. The Kit Since the initial tooling of the basic A series airframe in 2007, there have been numerous reboxings, additional parts and re-releases of other variants, although the A-4 doesn't seem to have been available in a boxing on its own until now. Eduard's 190 is a great kit, and has stood the test of time well over the last decade, and the moulds have seen additions that keep it current. The ProfiPACK boxing includes extras to improve on the already excellent detail, and arrives in the traditional orange-themed box, which is adorned with a painting of the iconic Butcher bird engaged with a Spitfire. Inside are five grey/blue sprues, one clear, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a small sheet of kabuki tape masking material, two decal sheets and the instruction/painting guide in glossy colour printing. Due to the pick-n-mix nature of the sprues there will be a fair quantity of spares left after construction, which are marked on the diagrams with a pale blue overprinting. Construction starts in the cockpit, which is augmented with pre-painted PE side consoles and instrument panels, but also retained are the decals that can be applied to flat panels, as well as the engraved panels for those that prefer to paint their details manually. The tub includes the sharply pointed rear deck, to which you add the rear bulkheads, control column, seat, plastic or PE rudder pedals, pre-painted seatbelts and sundry other parts in styrene and PE. In order to close up the fuselage the cockpit assembly is inserted along with a bulkhead that closes up the front of the tub, two exhaust inserts in the cowling, and the engine assembly, which is only an approximation of the front row of cylinders, plus the reduction gear, as not much will be seen once the cowling is in place. The lower wings are full width, and have a spar fitted that runs to the ends of the gear bays, with detail on the face visible through the apertures. This is augmented by the wheel trays, various ribs and the cannon barrels that protrude through, with the upper wings added after painting of the bay roof detail that is etched into their underside. The completed wing assembly is then offered up to the fuselage, and the missing sections of the cowling with exhaust stubs, gun barrels and troughs are added to the top and bottom of the nose. The two-piece ring finishes the front cowling, and the flying surfaces are glued into to place, including separate rudder and ailerons, and fixed elevators. Two types of tyres are provided for the main gear, which have separate hubs, and fit onto the peg on the ends of the strut, with separate oleo-scissors and captive bay door parts. The retraction gear is installed on the inner side of the leg, and the centre doors fit to the central bar that splits the bays. The tail wheel slots into the rear, crew step, gun barrels and pitot probes are installed, then the three-bladed paddle prop is completed with spinner and fan behind it, with a peg at the rear fitting into a corresponding hole in the engine front. Different open and closed canopies are provided, and are outfitted with head armour before being added to the airframe along with the windscreen part. The last touch is to add the gear-down indicator pegs to the tops of the wings, which are made from tiny PE parts. If you are rigging the aerial wire to the tail, remember that if you pose the canopy open, the wire can appear relaxed, although many photos also show it taut, so check your references. Markings This ProfiPACK edition gives you five decal options, with plenty of variation between them, which should appeal to the widest of audiences, and don’t forget that you also have masks for the canopy and the wheel hubs to ease your painting job, which is always nice. From the box you can build one of the following: W. Nr. 746, flown by Oblt. S. Schnell, CO of 9./JG 2, Vannes-Meucon, France, January 1943 Flown by Maj. J. Trautloft, CO of JG 54, Soviet Union, early 1943 W. Nr. 749, flown by Oblt. E. Rudorffer, CO of 6./JG 2, Sidi Ahmed, Tunisia, December 1942 W. Nr. 760, flown by Fw. R. Eisele, 8./JG 2, Brest-Guipavas, France, January 1943 Flown by Oblt. W. Nowotny, CO of 1./JG 54, Staraya Russa, Soviet Union, March 1943 All the decals are printed in Czechia, have good registration, colour density and sharpness, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the edge of the printing. Under magnification there is a little spidering on the edges of some of the black parts, but under the Mk.1 eyeball this isn't readily visible. The stencils are catered for on a separate sheet, with a page of the instructions devoted to their placement, away from the markings options to avoid clutter. As always with Eduard, the Swastikas are provided on one cut-off corner of the sheet, and in two parts on the body of the sheet to comply with local regulations regarding this contentious symbol. Conclusion The surface detail on the kit is excellent, with lines of finely engraved rivets adding to the visual appeal (yes, we know rivets aren't holes, but this technique works for most of us though!). Add the extra PE detail, and quite a fun set of decal options (I particularly like option E), and you have a winner on your hands. Out of the box you can build a cracking model, but Eduard also have released a host of additional parts for those that either want to cherry-pick from the range, or go bonkers and add just about all of it in an attempt to create a singularity from the heaviest 1:48 model in the world! I'll be reviewing those shortly, but in the meantime feast your eyes on the kit itself. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Fw.190A-8/R2 Profipack 1:48

    Fw.190A-8/R2 Profipack 1:48 Eduard The Focke-Wulf Fw.190 was known as the Würger, which until I looked it up the other day, I didn't know meant "Shrike" in English, which is where the nickname "Butcher Bird" arises, as it is also another name for some of the Shrike family. You learn something new every day! Their introduction in 1941 gave the Spitfire Mk.V pilots a nasty shock, ending their superiority over the then current generation of Bf.109s. They were the impetus behind the scramble to give the Spit some extra power that resulted in the Mk.IX. The A-8 variant of the 190 sported a more powerful engine than earlier models, as well as upgraded armour, with the R2 designation having 30mm MK108 cannons instead of the 20mm cannons previously carried in the outer wing stations. It gave an already potent armoury even greater punch, which was needed to take down the incoming bombers quickly and with as little exposure to returned fire as possible. It was superseded by the Dora, or long-nose after sterling service with the Luftwaffe in many theatres of war. The Kit Eduard are acknowledged masters of the Fw.190 in 1:48, and this is a re-issue of an earlier kit in their new favourite shade of grey styrene, but with the same Photo-Etch (PE) and decal options. If you missed this on the first serving, you might want to rectify that with what is an extremely nice kit. It also has big cannons, which certainly endear any kit to me. The box is identical to the old one, sporting a rather nice painting of a 190 speeding over a crippled B-17 which has two engines afire. Inside are six large sprues in Panzer grey styrene, a clear styrene sprue, a sheet of pre-painted PE, a set of canopy masks in yellow kabuki tape (not pictured), a decal sheet and of course the instruction booklet in glossy colour. If you've built an Eduard Würger before, you'll know what to expect. It isn't a simple kit to build, but if you exercise patience and following the instructions particularly when building the complex engine, you will end up with an impressive model. The cockpit is formed from a basic tub to which you can add either styrene side consoles, or laminated PE panels, a choice that is echoed on the main panel, which is split into two sections, one of which is attached to the cockpit tub, the other to the airframe further down the line. Pre-painted seatbelts are also included to drape over the seat, and a pair of fine PE rudder pedals if you're not satisfied with the styrene set also included in the kit. The cannon bay is build up and attached to the fuselage with the cockpit, and either a one-piece tail-wheel, or a more detailed assembly with a two-part yoke and separate wheel. The lower wing is full-width, and has a spar inserted that also fills the job of rear walls of the main gear bays, to which a few additional ribs & parts are added along with a separate panel that covers the wheel area, plus the wing root mounted cannons. You can display the cannon bays open and expose their breeches by switching parts, or glue the bay doors shut and keep the lines clean. The upper wings are added, and then mated to the fuselage together with the upper part of the instrument panel and the separate ailerons that you can pose at will. The engine is a complete radial unit, with both rows of seven cylinders depicted, plus the spaghetti of exhaust manifolds that squirm around to exit the cowling side each side. A template is supplied to fit to the D-shaped lug on the rear of the engine, onto which you rest the exit ends of each tube, which should leave them correctly arranged if you're careful and don't get impatient when waiting for the glue to set up. As long as you've remembered not to glue the template, you then remove it and add the rear "greeblies" to the engine before mounting it on an octagonal frame and three triangular mounts that attach to very specific areas in the front of the fuselage. The cowling is made up next, and here you have a choice of a faired over pair of gun troughs on the nose, which is for the bright red captured 190, and can be found on the clear sprue for no apparent reason other than there was space. The three-part cowling (with or without faired over guns) attaches to the outer cowling ring, and then the inner ring, and it would be a good idea to fit this temporarily to the fuselage while it sets up, to avoid any wobbly shaped cowling issues later. Once dry, add the three hoses, and the cowling can be permanently installed if you aren't leaving some panels off to display your hard work. The tail has a separate rudder and one-piece elevators, and once the landing gear has been built up from strut, oleo-scissor link, bay door, single part wheels and retraction jacks, it is just a case of adding the drop tank to the centreline pylon, adding the barrels for the 30mm outer cannons (except for the captured option, for which you also need to remove their forward fairings), and then adding the canopy glazing, which is both thin and optically clear. There are alternative canopies for open or closed, plus additional armoured glass panels to be fitted to the sides of the canopy, which is probably best done by carefully flooding the gap between the parts with Klear/Future, being careful not to leave any bubbles compressed between the parts. The three bladed prop, PE exhaust grilles on the side of the fuselage and the remaining panels on the gun bays are the final items to be installed, completing the build. Markings There are six options in this Profipack edition, all but one of which have the same upper fuselage and wing soft-edged RLM74/75 splinter camo, overlaid with various forms of mottle on the fuselage and tail sides. Unit markings and theatre identification give plenty of variation, but that last option is in bright red and wearing stars and bars… just that little bit different! From the box you can build one of the following: Hans-Günther von Kornatzki, Stab/II.(Sturm)/JG4, September 11th, 1944 – green 3, and black/white/black tail band, black/white spiral spinner. Werner Gerth, II.(Sturm)/JG 3 “Udet”, July, 1944 – Black 13, black nose cowling and lightning strike down the fuselage, white tail band, black/white spiral spinner. Karl Spenst, 8./JG 300, December, 1944 – Black 10, blue/white/blue tail band, black/white spiral spinner. Ewald Preiß, 6./JG 300, October, 1944 – Yellow 1, yellow under cowling, orange tail band, black/white spiral spinner. Walter Wagner, 5./JG 4, January 1st, 1945 – White 11, black/white/black tail band, partial black/white spiral spinner. Ex-white 11 of 5/JG4, Leo C.Moon, 404th FG, 9th USAF, February/March, 1945 – All over red with black wing step, spinner and exhaust areas, wearing 00*L on the fuselage. All decals are printed in the Czech Republic, and are of good quality, showing good register, sharpness and colour density. The stencils are printed on the smaller sheet, and have a separate page at the back of the instruction booklet detailing their application, which is common amongst all markings. The US stars'n'bars look a little odd, which is possibly due to the white of the stars touching the bars, hiding the very tips of the star. If it bothers you, it's almost certain you'll be able to find some spares in your decal stash, or online. It might even be your excuse to try some masks such as these from Maketar. Conclusion A welcome re-release of an excellent kit. Interesting markings that are the same as the earlier edition, but if it's not broken, don't fix it. The red captured example is very enticing, but you have to leave the guns off, which is sad. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of