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About albergman

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    New Member
  • Birthday 06/08/38

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  • Location
    Ontario Canada
  • Interests
    Scratch builder of car, boat and steam engine models. Enthusiastic sailor and (used to be) windsurfer. Interested in photography, computers and travel.

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  1. Most of this post got dropped so I'll do it again! Thanks to all above who took time to post a reply ... greatly appreciate it. I don't have a lot of pictures of the build. It's a very simple car to scratch and basically needs only some auto-repair Bondo molded around the wheel wells and sanded out. Air dam is an easy fabrication and the wheels were done on my woodlathe/toolrest with hand held carving tools. Taillight lenses from plastic pill bottles etc. and their frames molded from epoxy. I used those "logs" where you slice of a piece and mold it to shape and let it harden. File out all the holes ... took several tries though! Luggage rack is steel wire and solder. Today I'd use stainless (welding) rod and silver solder as it's stronger and stays shiny. I see from my pictures the car was ready to paint on day 5 so that shows how simple a design it is to build. Here you go then ... A few more finished shots ... Frank Other scratch builds ... Lancia D50 Sport Fisherman 36 Half-Hull yachts Beneteau 51 sailboat Varnished wooden cars Flying Scotsman A3 Lola T-70 Billings Dragon
  2. Thanks BB73 and Gorbygould. Appreciate you interest. "Master craftsman"??? I think not but very kind of you. Just an old duffer making models from his long gone, misspent youth. Frank Other scratch builds ... Lancia D50 Sport Fisherman 36 Half-Hull yachts Beneteau 51 sailboat Varnished wooden cars Triumph TR-6 Lola T-70 Billings Dragon
  3. BB73 ... glad you like my D50. A lathe can open the door to scratchbuilding some nice parts so, have a go on some scrap materials. Lots of good how-to videos out there. I hadn't touched a lathe since high school (1951) but it's mostly common sense once you work out how the bits move! A live steam model is an impressive piece of model engineering. Raises the bar WAY above scratch building. I have some idea of what it takes to build a locomotive having made a display model of one ... Flying Scotsman. And now I've started another!
  4. Thanks guys. Appreciate you looking in. This one's starting to become a drag and I'm finding myself rushing things. I can see the end in sight though and I WILL finish it. The LOLA? Hmmm ... haven't touched it in a long time. Just checked and it was Sept 2004 Not likely I'll pick it up again. It was one of the first models I chose to build when I decided to try scratch building in 2002 and it has some serious issues that I can't be bothered trying to fix. I've learned a lot since then and it might be faster just to start over. It's a complex shape and I was just working from photos and I've learned that that can be very misleading. Frank
  5. Well, it's been a while! I've been picking away at the model over the last 4 months but mostly re-making parts I already had ... story of my life. If I'm to be completely honest I have to admit I started on another project!! I've been trying to get up the motivation to start another locomotive ... one of Gresley's A4 streamliners for those who care about these things. Got the shell finished then felt real bad about the D50 gathering dust already and maybe joining all the other unfinished projects languishing in drawers. Guilt got the better of me so I've been back at this one and I'll finish it da*n it!! So .... I'm pretty much finished making parts and actually now trying out various spray colours as I don't want to do it in the familiar Ferrari red but more like the maroon that Lancia used. Here's some pictures of parts made Exhaust pipes Driver seat/mini chassis Decided the instrument nacelles were too big so had to make new ones ... and fill the holes in the dashboard! The small ones are really tiny ... Some of you may recall that I'd made front and rear brake drums in Renshape a while back. I decided after living with them for a while that I didn't care for them (sounds like real life!) so I made an ultra fine cutting tool for my lathe and VERY delicately cut a pair of finned front drums in aluminum. Next thing was I didn't care for the brass A-arms on the front suspension so ... these were re-made in aluminium! Drilled holes at the outboard end so I could run bolts through from outside the brake backing plate and the kingpin. Once all this was combined on the car I was pleased I'd made the effort. Now the whole front suspension is aluminium. (The right-lower wishbone has rotated on its bolt so it looks odd.) Oh ... new grill installed too. What else??? Oh yes, now that the front drums are aluminium I must re-do the rears!! left to right ... the rim/tire, brake drum and rear suspension with backing plates bolted on ... Now the drum sitting inside the rim finally, the rear suspension fits into both ... Actually I still have to make the other brake drum but that will pretty much finish the rear suspension ... until I decide to remake something else! Those brass bits on the de dion tube are bothering me now! Here's a test fitting of all the gubbins that goes between the tanks and the body. Exhaust pipe with a large oil pipe feeding into the base of the tall, narrow oil radiator then a flex line taking the cooled oil back into a reservoir behind the seat. Everything is just being test-fitted here. The rivet strip was a late decision after drilling and fitting of hundreds of the plastic rivets that I'd bought. They were just too large-headed. So ... I shaved off all their heads and came up with the aluminium strip idea. The best material I could come up with ... scale thickness and malleable, was that disk that coffee cans are vacuum-sealed with. I smoothed out the "bimps" on its surface and cut appropriate sized strips. Next I sharpened a small nail to a fine rounded point and used it to punch in "X" rivets (where X=5 or 600). Glued the strip to the tank and around the ends. There are rows of individual rivets scattered around the tanks and elsewhere on the body and for these I used 1/2 inch straight pins liberated from the missus' sewing room on a midnight raid. These were actually hammered into holes drilled for the purpose. By leaving the hole at 3/4 depth the "nail" went in without any glue being needed. Oil radiators ... They are tall thin units fitted at the rear of each tank. There's a segment that protrudes to the rear which ends with a spigot for an oil hose to attach to. I preferred to have this part made from a single piece of metal as it's so much stronger that way ... so ... into the scrap bin! I found a scrapped computer hard drive "chassis" that already had the requisite oil radiator built in so a few minutes with a hacksaw retrieved it. A few more minutes with files and the rad unit emerged ... Next I drilled a few holes into the rad. body then filed out a suitable rectangular hole into which I squeezed/CA'd some wire mesh (anti-static shielding off some computer component). Still looking for something more appropriate though. Stripped off the plastic covering from some leftover wire and slipped it onto the spigot. The plastic was too resistant to bending to the shape needed so I did end up sliding some brass rod into it. OK, that's about where she sits. Trying various paints and washing it off as I search for something appropriate. Thanks for looking in. Back later. Frank
  6. Perth huh? I have a friend here in Canada from near Perth ... lived up the Swan river a ways. Anyway, have looked up your Mig and am really impressed ... (even though I know next to nothing about aircraft). Lovely to see you attempting to do it all just as you would have in earlier times. Also think you're doing a wonderful job of explaining many of your steps in a nice, helpful way that must be useful in removing some of the mysteries in scratch building. I can see some of your readers definitely responding in a positive way and I'm thinking maybe I should add more substance to my own most recent blog if/when I get back to it or any of the half dozen others languishing in boxes for years! Definitely look into the composite decking materials as they could be a nice stable medium for future projects. I noticed some of the companies here in Canada offer a free sampler package as they try to promote the product. Maybe there's something similar down under. UPDATE ... yes there is ... here. I was taken aback by your kind words over some of my work ... gulp .. thanks so much for that but really, there are other scratch builders on here who are miles ahead of me and that's not false modesty! Your Mig has lit a spark that's been smouldering for a while. I've a small plank of padauk that I've always thought I'd like to shape into a nice natural finished Spitfire of Lancaster. I've seen these aircraft advertised for sale, out of China I suppose, and some are really nice. I've done several cars over the years in nice woods (padauk, cocobolo and mahogany) that I like to finish in varnish and add a few details. Not everyone's cup of tea I suppose. I'll definitely be a lurker on your MIG just to see her finished ... this foil coating you're talking about applying has me baffled! Frank
  7. Aha ... sorry for the confusion! I've just been reading about Lennon's sailing experience on Megan Jaye ... thanks for making the connection for me. I'd never heard of that story. A little further reading turns up the info that it is a Hinckley 43 sloop and there are plans readily available on Google images. A fully rigged model is a very challenging project especially if you want to replicate sails (hard to get materials that look correct in scale) and at 1/50th scale it would be less than a foot long. A larger scale would be a bit more forgiving. I've scratch built a few boats over the years usually in Renshape which is readily available to me fortunately! I've also had good success with this new synthetic wood that's made for docks or decking. It's a composite material that is sold at building suppliers here (in Canada ). Let me know if you're interested in pursuing this ... sounds like a fun project! Frank
  8. Hi Reconcilor Frank here ... aka Albergman (our own sailboat was an Alberg 37) I've been away from the site for a while and just came across your request for help scratch building a yacht. I think it would be a wonderful idea to build your father's yacht or "Jubilee" if you prefer and I'd be happy to lend any assistance you need. Do you know what make of boat either one is? Also, are you interested in a full hull or just a half? Frank
  9. In keeping with Hendie`s suggestion of tools and tricks based around the mini lathe here are a few other ideas I`d like to share. I have an extremely small workshop so space is at a premium. My two `large` power tools are a 9 inch bandsaw and the new mini lathe. Here`s the shed ... Right after I got the lathe I realized I needed something to shape tool bits with as I had bought a small stash of blanks in various sizes. There was no room to install a bench grinder so I adapted one of my many (9) Chinese Dremels. (By way of explanation ... when these appeared on the Canadian market they were sold for $18 including a flexible shaft!! I couldn`t resist that as a REAL Dremel was over $80 with NO attachments.) For modelling purposes I can`t stress too much how important it is to use a tool attached to a flexible shaft. It gives you control that you just won`t have holding the electric tool. Here`s a few hanging up. Each has a different tool in the flex shaft. So, back to my bench grinder replacement ... needs no explanation I suppose The metal plate is ramped at about 15 degrees which is the approximate face angle required for a lathe tool (feel free to chime in any real machinists). The Dremel is fitted with a grinding disk that works wonders on high speed steel (HSS) stock that I use. I don`t need carbon steel bits as I only work in soft materials. For further shaping of a tool bit I make use of these `stone`disks you can buy in a tub of 25 or so ... and grinding stones ... There are other types of Dremel disks that are very handy too ... For metal cutting and shaping I use these to cut slots for the loom of my wire wheels Lastly (yes, I will shut up!) These saw blade disks are wonderful for cutting panel lines ... and any other fine cuts OK, that`s a lot of info. If you don`t have a flex shaft (or even a Dremel) I highly recommend them. There are many after market brands out there for the tool and the flexshafts that are all interchangeable I`ve found and are much cheaper than the big name one. Hope this is helpful. Frank
  10. That's a neat little machine you found! Never seen one of those before. Doesn't look like there would be any place to attach a chuck however and that could limit the kind of projects undertaken. Speaking of chucks ... those jaws can really hurt when working on a tiny piece and you just have to be cutting really close ... believe me, I have the scars to prove it, To minimize the carnage I got the bright idea to dismantle an old battery powered drill that still had a perfectly good chuck in it. I'm the kind of person who rarely throws stuff out ... it might just come in handy some day. You can dismantle them and get the chuck out along with a shaft that is an integral part of it. Now, when I work on a tiny piece, I lock it into the drill chuck then fasten that into the 3-jaw. This gets me safely away from the dreaded steel jaws. Here's a tiny sailboat winch in the drill chuck ... well away from danger. Just a suggestion. Frank
  11. Hi Greggles I just bought my mini lathe in the past year but before that made many parts on cobbled up machinery. The screwdriver might work but probably lacks enough torque to counter the tool cutting. My first "lathe" was an old electric motor from a furnace that I secured to a block. I jury rigged a chuck to the shaft and made up various toolrests. For tools I bought packets of cheap Chinese wood carver tools and ground them to the shapes I needed. Not suggesting you go this route but it shows what can be done when machining soft materials. After a while I got a good deal on a hobbyist wood lathe and moved the clutch to that one. The moveable tool rest was a real treat after what I went through with the first. Used this for many years again just using hand held carving tools. This rig was capable of machining anything up to and including soft aluminum. Here are some of the hand held carving tools I used. These are easily shaped with grinding tools on a Dremel. However, now that I have a "proper" mini lathe I really appreciate the accuracy and the control that the tools now have. There's a lot to be said for a rig like my wood lathe because of the flexibility you have with a hand held tool when making a contoured cut. That's now more difficult to do with a machine that is designed to move in two axes. The wood lathe is about 1/5th the price of a mini lathe and a chuck is reasonable too so give this some thought. Here's a sampler of some of the pieces I made over the years on the wood lathe ... Looking at ... (left to right top to bottom) anchor windlass for a sailboat model turned piece to become a knock off for a wire wheel gas filler cap Jaguar wheel and headlight rims Lola T70 deep dish wheel (made from computer hard drive chassis) Ferrari 375MM wire wheel Aluminium rim for Flying Scotsman locomotive binnacle and compass for sailboat self tailing winch for same Triumph TR6 wheel Not trying to discourage you here. The mini lathe is wonderful but many of the pieces above would have been difficult (if not impossible for me) to do without the flexibility of a hand held tool. Cheers Frank
  12. Thanks! That's all, just Thanks!! Sorry, but I liked your enthusiasm and seriously, I appreciate it. It's been a long time in it's gestation ... going on 11 years now and I really should finish it one day. It's encouragement like this that gets me thinking about it ... Cheers Frank
  13. Luverly stuff hendie! Looking at it all it leaves me wondering why there is a #2 bracket at all? Seems like a #1 and a #3 would have sufficed but no doubt there's a good reason. Maybe they just felt it would more fun for a modeller to replicate as 3 parts. Frank
  14. And you're a haggis enthusiast!! This could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship ... as Bogey once said. Next you'll be telling me you're actually Scottish born? As I am. Anyway, I read through that link you put up for lapping the gib strips and it's excellent. Stuff there I hadn't considered so I think I'll pull it apart and do it over again. As for a thread on lathe work ... I'm in favour of it but have little to contribute as I'm just doing stuff by instinct. Haven't used a lathe since I was in high school back in 51 ... remember when they had real shop classes? I'm sure there are qualified lathe-ists(?) on the forum who could help duffers like myself though. I've really ground to a halt on the scratch Lancia D50 project ... as is my wont, I just got tired of looking at it. My usual solution to this kind of malaise is just to start something new!! Why not? I've got shelves full of half-built scratch racing cars. I thought I'd exhausted my interest in steam engines by building a Flying Scotsman but the bug has been there to do a Gresley A4 streamliner so, off I went in a totally different direction. I've promised myself however, that I'll return to the Lancia very soon ... whatever that means. Frank
  15. Thanks for the tip on the q/c tool posts! That's quite a deal. I know I spend more time shaping tools, changing and aligning them than I do machining! I haven't tried the carbide tools as yet. All of my work uses "soft" materials so I just buy blanks of high-speed steel in various sizes. I don't have room for a bench grinder but I find a Dremel (with a flex shaft) and those coloured stone wheels are wonderful for shaping HSS bits. They come in all shapes and sizes and hardness. I appreciate their tiny size when I need to shape a tool that needs delicate proportions. Frank PS sorry to ambush your log. Be happy to take it offline if you like.