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hsr

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About hsr

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 16/06/53

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    PA, USA
  • Interests
    I build everything, except cars

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379 profile views
  1. Waves

    Paul, I don't don't disagree with you, and your display is an excellent example of where ship and water are in sync. My comment is more for those dioramas which have beautifully sculpted waves, but the ship attitude is totally out of sync with those wave.
  2. This is just a little nit, but I see all of these wonderful displays of waterline ships in ocean dioramas, and while the water has been sculpted into waves of various sizes, the ships are always perfectly level. Shouldn't they have a little roll or pitch to make them more realistic? I just read Norm Friedman's book Naval Firepower about all the work and devices to try and compensate for this, so I guess I am more conscious about it.
  3. It is pretty big, but everything else in my collection is 1/72 so changing scale would prevent my from making comparisons. Plus I need to use an optivisor as it is. Thanks Howard
  4. This is the 3rd or 4th Hasegawa P-3C to be posted here in the last month or so. I am not sure of the reason for this. I would say great minds think alike, but I am not sure where I would fit in . Anyway here is my offering. I a a bit on happy with this build, not the fault of the kit, but related to my spaying. I wanted a nice gloss finish on the white, so I gave it several coats starting with a dry dusting and working up to a a wet heavy final coat with light sanding in between. This has worked fine in the past, but this time I was getting a lot of dust infiltration, and the occasional blob of paint. At one point a fairly large black spec of dust suddenly appeared and in a vain attempt to hide it under more paint I ended up with a drip, (sigh). This meant sanding idown and basically starting over. . I finally decided cut my losses and live with some specs. As far as the kit itself, it is from some pretty old molds and it shows with plenty of flash and raise panel lines, but the fit was good and while I can argue with some of the engineering it went together well and looks good. The decals worked well with virtually no silvering and look good. My only complaint is that they implemented to walkways, "no steps" and other line on the wings in 3 big decals. They were hard to work with and maneuver into position and had large clear areas. When first put down the clear areas severely wrinkled, but with several applications of MicroSol they flattened out. So on to the pictures; I used the Eduard interior, but with the small windows it is hard to see inside. Next up is the equally old Hasegawa OV-1A. Enjoy.
  5. Thanks. It is a nice kit.
  6. Spinning Props

    have you heard of these guys; http://www.propblur.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html ?
  7. It's a good thing you have after market decals. The ones that come with that kit are useless. Good luck
  8. I am just building the same kit now, very inspiring.
  9. The Big "E"

    Been a long time, no kit. Vaporware?
  10. I have it. As the solvent in the Future evaporates it must cool the plastic enough for the moisture trapped in the cockpit to condense on the inside of the window, then as it returns to room temperature it evaporates and clears up
  11. But it is int inside, which is sealed, and only appears when I apply Future. I can only guess that the plastic is somehow porous to something in the Future and it is seeping though it. . Any way it is clear now, but I still lack the skills and/or equipment to get a good picture
  12. After unmasking the windows I gave them a coat of future. For some reason that I can't explain whenever I do this moisture seems to build up on the inside of the transparencies. I have no idea how it gets there, but it will evaporate in a few hours. Since it was mostly too dark to see anything inside, I didn't have the patience to wait before I took the pictures.
  13. This is my Grumman E-2C Hawkeye by Hasegawa. This took me longer then usual because the build was interrupted by a 2 week vacation . I can't think of anything negative about the kit; the fit was good and the decals were excellent. After some of my more recent more challenging kits this was a pleasure to build. I used the Eduard interior, but you can't really see much of the inside. This was one of the bigger aircraft I have built in a while and the next up is the Hasegawa P-3 Orion, which is even bigger. Enjoy.
  14. Anyone know anything about the Cyber Hobby USS Enterprise CVN-65 kit? Ever going to happen or did they give up?
  15. After building the X-24A part of the Mach 2 double kit I decided that I while I liked the rounded curves of the X-24A I had no interest in building the flying flat iron that was the X-24B, So I gave the X-24B part of the kit to a fellow club member that liked building experimental aircraft. Then I read R.Dale Reeds "Wingless Flight" and concluded that I really needed to build an X-24B to complete the set. I couldn't ask for the kit back, so I searched out another one on Ebay and bought another double kit. Proving, I guess, that a fool and his money are soon parted Anyway, after the successful completion of the X-24A test program the designers came up with a design that they thought would perform better at hyper-sonic speed, but they were not sure how it would fly at subsonic speeds for landing. In order to test this, and to save money, they took the X-24A and built their new hyper-sonic shape around it. This is why there is only a mockup of the X-24A on display and not the real thing. As it turned out the X-24B shape had very similar flight characteristics to the then proposed Space Shuttle. This lead to the X-24B being used extensively to test the landing characteristics of the Shuttle. These tests lead to the conclusion that the Shuttle would be able to land with no power on a concrete runway and lead to dropping the requirement that the Shuttle have a jet landing engine, cutting costs and complexity. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Marietta_X-24 This second Mach 2 double kit had pluses and minuses over the previous one. On the plus side the molding seemed to be better with less flash and short shots. On the negative side while the decals on the first one were excellent these decals were on the thick side with less crisp printing, and they were again on the large side. During my search for another Mac 2 kit I found an old Eagle Talon kit that had much nice looking decals that were the right size. Unfortunately they turned out to be badly mis-registered and refused to release from the paper without disintegrating, so I used they Mach 2 ones. In any event they went down well and behaved correctly on the model. I did one thing differently then usual. My current procedure if to spay my models with Tamiya Fine primer before painting. This time I use their white one and after several coats with sanding in between it looked so nice I decided to go with it rather then covering it with actual white paint. This meant that there would be no way to touch up the white after painting the trim, but things worked out and I am happy with the results. So on to the pictures: I would still like to built an M2-F1 and an M2-F2 and while there is an Anigrand M2-F2 available, the only kit of the M2-F1 was by the now defunct Muroc models and is no longer available. I have an automatic save search set up for it and if it ever appears I will get one and the M2-F2 and complete the set. My last 5 kits have been 2 Anigrand, 1 Mach 2, and a Unicraft. I think it is time to build a few Hasegawa's so next up is their E-2C. Enjoy
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