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Everything posted by hsr

  1. I tried to track down an Italeri 206 from 2015, but it was easier to get the M&E conversion from 1989! Thanks
  2. Unless they have folding blades like the Dragon SH3D sea King Thanks
  3. This is a 1/72 Bell TH-57A SeaRanger US Navy basic/advanced helicopter trainer using the Matchbox OH-58 kit and the M&E Models conversion. The M&E conversion was injection molded plastic, not resin, and dated back to 1989. It is for the early TH-57A and was designed for the Matchbox kit. It consisted of 2 fuselage haves molded in very thick translucent plastic, a tail boom, white metal rotor parts, and decals. The interior, fins, skids, and tail rotor come from the Matchbox kit. The Matchbox interior only needed slight trimming of the bulkhead tops, and while the TH-57 instrument panel was just a centrally located pedestal the kit part was the full width of the from of the cockpit so needed more trimming. Missing were the collective stick and rudder pedals which I added, but given the translucency of windows are hard to see. The rear rudder fin needed to be shortened. The main rotor was left as an exercise for the builder and I made it out of 2 laminated .015 strips of styrene mated to the white metal rotor head. Here are some construction pictures: Note the white strip of styrene around the top of the "dog house" that forms a little lip that was missing from the fuselage halves. This is what you get from M&E Here it is assembled with the Matchbox parts in in green and brown. Note that the rear of the main skids needed to be shortened a little to give it the right TH-57 stance. Later to be added were 2 exhausts on the top of the dog house. I made them from brass tubing which I found hard to work with and cut and I am less then satisfied with the results. While there seem to be many pictures of the TH-57B & C, pictures of the A are harder to find, but I did find this one: and used it as a model for painting and decaling. The M&E decals where for a US TH-57A (which deviated slightly from the above picture), and an Israeli and UK Bell 206. I did a test of one of the UK decals and it fell a part in the water. So once again MicroScale Decal Film came to the rescue and mostly solved that problem. So after all that, here it is: As an aside in my research I cam across this web site: http://www.jetwashaviationphotos.com/us-navy-air-training-command-.html Which has a lot of good information about US Navy pilot training including this chart: which I found very useful. It is a little dated since the TC-12's have been retired and replaced by T-44C's and the TH-57 is in the process of being replaced by the Leonardo TH-73A Thrasher. Next up in the Italeri F-100F Wild Weasel using the Blackbird wings Enjoy.
  4. It's also good for old cracked decals. It keeps them from falling apart in the water Thanks
  5. This is my build of the Hasegawa 1/72 Grumman EA-6B Prowler ECM aircraft. The EA-6B is a stretched 4 seat version of the A-6 Intruder. The EA-6B was used by both the US Navy, Marines, and USAF until replaced by the EA-18G Growler and retired in 2019. This is your typical late '80s Hasegawa kit with mostly good fit a simple interior and in this case tinted canopies. The tinting is correct for the main canopies but is incorrect for the wind screen which should be clear. I replace the interior with a nice well fitting Aires resin one. Unfortunately with the tinting you really can't see much, nut it is there. My boxing was an older Minicraft-Hasegawa one and the decals were not usable due to aging. I originally planned on doing the '60s gray over white paint scheme so I first got an appropriate set of CTA decals (#31). But then after construction was completed I decided I would rather use the later 3 color gray scheme. I ordered the Wolfpak 72-074 set from Fantasy Printshop hoping it would make it to the US by the time I was finished painting and I was ready for them. I also ordered the PrintScale 72073 and 72395 sets as a backup. I don't like using PrintScale decals because I find they are so thin (yes that is supposed to be a good thing) that they become distorted just getting them off the paper and then the stick like glue to the first place they are applied. This makes them impossible to position without them rolling up into a useless ball. But they arrived in just a week. I decided to try the 72073 sheet in the hopes it might be usable. I tested applying the tail serial number which I knew would be the most difficult and it was just an exercise in frustration. So I waited for the Wolfpak set to arrive, and waited, and waited. After 4 weeks waiting and still not getting them I got the idea; what if I gave the PrintScale decals a coat of MicroScale Decal Film? That should give them enough body to keep them from distorting. So I gave that a try and it worked! I was able to apply then without any scrunching, distortion or silvering. So if anyone is having the same issue with PrintScale decals (I also have this problem with Sword decals, although they seem to be better in their latest kits) try coating them with decal film. So after all that here it is. Next up is a TH-57A using the Matchbox OH-58 kit and the M&E conversion. I started this while waiting for the Wolfpak decals so it is almost done. Enjoy
  6. I have built a couple 3D kits, most recently the Click2Detail T-1A Jayhawk The first thing you need to know is that a 3D printer creates a part by laying down layers of material and on a curved surface you get tiny steps for each layer, so it will not be smooth like a high quality resin kit or and injection molded kit. It depends on the quality of the printer and the material used to print. In this case of the Jayhawk, printed by Shapeways, the steps were very thin and easily sanded away. But I also had a surface that was kind of wavy and not flat. Here is the tail after a coat of primer and light sanding. The tree like grain is the steps and the straight lines are the waviness. For glue I found that CAA glue will work for none high stress area, like assembling the cockpit. For high stress areas like wing joints and landing gear I found that epoxy worked best. Hope this helps. Howard
  7. It is actually not that small. With a wingspan of almost 40' is sized out to 6.5", Bigger then many WW I fighters. But at only 5'3" miself I like small things Thanks
  8. Octopus which is/was distributed by Pavla also made a complete, mostly plastic kit.
  9. It seems to be common with Diamond and Cirrus and perhaps other aircraft. It broke and was repaired a number of times during construction and I may have it a little forward to help it sit on the nose gear. Thanks
  10. This is my Decarli Models 1/72 Diamond T-52A, AKA Diamond DA40. This was, until recently when it was replaced by the Cirrus T-53A, the US Air Force Academy Primary trainer. The Decarli resin was virtually free of pin holes with the exception of what I would call more bubbles in the wing leading edge which were easily fixed. However the resin surface was a bit rough and needed smoothing. I can't complain about the assembly instructions since there were none. No exploded view, no part list, nothing. There were detailed decal instructions. There were parts and markings for an Academy T-52A, and a Bangladeshi Army DA40 NG, but only the decal drawings gave any indication of which was which. I had to contact Mr Decarli for info on some of the parts and he was very swift and helpful in replying. The only issue I had was with the vertical tail. As can be seen in this picture* The tail is the same width as the tail boom, while the part supplied was a 2 dimensional slab. It took a bit of filling and sanding to get it to blend in, but I think it came out well. It is also a tail sitter. I hollowed out the nose as much as possible and filled it with #10 shot. I even drilled out the spinner and added shot, but it still sits on its tail. The decals were printed by an ALPS printer on a somewhat thick single film. The instructions say to give them a coat of Microscale decal film to keep them from cracking, but I found this to be not needed. In all a quick (8 days) and pleasant build. And here it is. Next up is the Hasegawa EA-6B Enjoy *This phot is a publicity shot from the Academy from when the plane was first introduced. The older gentleman is 3 star general and the superintendent of the Academy. the younger guy is a Cadet 1 at the Academy. I can't imagine what is going though his head,
  11. This is the Fujimi 1/72 Douglas TA-4J advanced trainer. Considering its age the Fujimi kit is very decent requiring a minimum for filler. The only trouble area was the engine intakes which did require a bit of sanding and filler. The only issues I had where with the painting and the decals. I used Aires seats, Eduard painted brass interior, and and a combination of the kit and Microscale, and Fantasy Print Shop decals. I dropped the front slats, and rear flaps, but left the air breaks closed. For the white I used Tamiya's lacquer Liquid Surface Primer-W (87096) I like this because; it doesn't yellow like enamels will. it is a hard surface that can be sanded, it dries very quickly, and I have to use a primer anyway. Its negatives are that being a super fast drying lacquer it can not be touched up with a brush, and some enamels don't stick to it very well and can peal off when removing masking. This is not a problem I have had with the gray primer. I used Humbrol 60 for the red and I probably should have used 19 since the 60 was a little too dark and the 19 matches the decals better. I also had a problem with the 60 not wanting to dry. It stayed tacky, so if I touched it and then the white I would leave a red fingerprint. Also painting the edges of all the doors drove me crazy I generally don't like Fujimi decals, mainly because their whites are more of an off white or cream. Also the kit decals were for VC rather then VT squadron and I wanted a VT squadron. So I hunted for some after market ones and found the Microscale 72-211 sheet which does have marking for VT squadrons. I remember, in the old days, when Microscale decals where the ultimate decals you could buy, but now a days I will only use them as a last resort. Mostly because they tend to disintegrate when dipped in the water. Before using I gave them a coat of of decal film and 2 of them still gave me trouble. The sheet did not come with the stars and bars so I use a Fantasy Print Shop set, and the stencils on the Fujimi sheet looked better so I used them. All in all I am mostly happy with how it turned out. Next up the the recently released Declari T-52A primary trainer for, hopeully, a quick build. Enjoy.
  12. @ReccePhreak I built the AC-123K version of this kit, and to quote from that thread: "All decals will silver to some extent, but this can usually be fixed with decal solvent and a sharp knife to make tiny holes in the silvered area for the solvent to seep into. Not these. They resisted all efforts to fix and I am somewhat embarrassed to show the pictures because of this. They must come from the same source as the early Academy decals. Luckily the silvering doesn't show up too much in the pictures. " So I have to concur with Mr. Eaton. Also I found the fit to be atrocious and the instruction flawed. Good luck
  13. The one thing the Fujimi kits have is the separate slat can be displayed dropped
  14. @Tailspin Turtle What about the lower wing flap. Many pictures show it lowered (opened?) on parked aircraft, but I also see it closed? Thanks Howard
  15. The low vis starts on my sheet where just gray blobs void of detail. I also find that the hi vis stars are more off-white or cream rather then white. I have seen the Hobby 2000 boxings , but I already had the Fujimi so didn't get them. Thanks Howard
  16. The new tool Airfix is a fantastic kit with the best fit I have ever seen.
  17. I think the hump gives it more of an aggressive look. All the Fujimi renditions seem to have the same set of stores. When I work on the A-4F next year I'll have to switch them out with some aftermarket ordnance for some veriety, Thanks
  18. This is the Fujimi 1/72 Douglas A-4M Skyhawk. The A-4M was the last single seat version of the Skyhawk and was build specifically for the US Marines. This is the second of 4 Fujimi A-4s I am building. The first was the OA-4M and the next will be the TA-4J. Compared to my T-34C build last month this was a pleasant, trouble and drama free build, and a big mojo restorer. Fit was generally good and it used a minimum of filler. The cockpit was nice with decal instrument panels. I am not a big fan of Fujimi decals so I used the Wolfpak 72-073 decal sheet. The decals worked fine with a minimum of silvering that was easily fixed. I did the front slats open, and left the rear flaps closed. Note that with this color scheme the area under the slats and the edges of the landing gear doors are not usually painted red. Not much else to say, so here it is: Next up will be the Fujimi TA-4J. Enjoy
  19. @Denford I am not trying to hijack this tread, but what is the source of this rumor? I don't see any mention of it in the Rumormonger forum.
  20. As the war went on the perceived threat changed. I can't tell you which is which but one camouflage worked best against subs, another against surface ships and yet another against aircraft. I find it amazing how small the New York, which was a large ship in its day, is compared to the later ships.
  21. This is the Sword 1/72 Beechcraft T-34C Turbo Mentor. The T-34C was an update or the venerable T-34 with a Pratt & Whitney Canada PT6 turboprop engine replacing the piston engine of the earlier version. It was used by the US Navy as a Primary/Basic trainer from the mid 1970 until replaced by Beechcraft T-6 Texan II around the turn of the century. This was not an easy build and I can't remember when another build came as close to ending up in the garbage as this one and if I came across another one it will go to the top of the list of planes to rebuild and try again. This is an early effort by Sword and is a far cry from their current offering. The box touted "Limited-Run Technology" and I can only interpret that as a warning. The surface detail in pretty good with fine recessed panel lines. However there was a lot of flash and the fit was bad. The instruction would have been very nice for a resin kit, but fell short for an injection molded one even a limited run. There were no parts numbers on either the sprues or the instructions and parts placement was vague, The cockpit was a complete single resin casting including seats and control stick with the instrument panels separate. It was very nice but took a lot of trimming to get it to fit. The front wheel well was also a resin casting. On of the vague parts of the instructions was the placement of the front wheel. I clearly chose poorly since it ended up with a definite nose down attitude. The fit of the main wing to the fuselage was exceptionally bad and while I thought I had every thing properly aligned I ended up with a wing that is not square with the fuselage. The canopy was thick and cloudy with barely discernable framing. The painting on the box cover did not agree with the color drawing in the instructions. and neither completely agreed with the decals. The decals were thin, had good density, and were easy to place. However they required copious amount of Solvaset to get them to bend around curves. The front part of the sharks mouth was a little too small for the area it needed to cover. I used Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer (lacquer) for the white because it goes on smooth, doesn't yellow like other paints and can be lightly sanded, and I used Humbrol 19 (enamel) for the red. This lead another frustration since the red did not want to adhere to the lacquer. so in some spots it peeled off with the masking. I have not had this happen with the gray Tamiya primer. Not one of my best efforts but here it is: Next up is the Fujimi A-4M Enjoy
  22. I use #10 shot and super glue. It will sometimes get hot, but I have never had melting. The problem I have it that some times a few pieces will come loose and start rolling around the interior. I had one pieces roll onto the pilot's seat and stick there. It almost looks like the pilot left his helmet on the seat
  23. It's a really fun kit to build with little or no issues Thanks
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