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Liquid based masking


Zymurgy

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Hi all,

I am currently working on a 1/72 Sunderland and want to find the best way of masking the approx 4mm portal windows that dominate the main body of the aircraft!!

I have coated a couple of times in Klear and was planning on simply using tape to cover them whilst painting the main body however it's going to be a nightmare to do that on all 30 windows.

Having never used liquid masking solutions, how do these work on clear parts? Would they do what i am looking for? any recommendations? How long should i leave on for? how do i remove? etc etc etc!!!!

Many thanks!

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Try using white glue. It shouldn't react with the Klear and it is not too difficult to remove.

peebeep

So the old PVA type glue? Any particular type of brand?

Also, is it best to remove after each coat and apply a new load?

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PVA, that's the stuff. I wouldn't be fussy about brand. Leave it on until you've finished painting as it will stick pretty good, but removing it with the tip of a knife blade, then grabbing with tweezers should be possible. I would do a test run on an old model first to make sure you're comfortable doing it with PVA.

peebeep

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  • 1 month later...

I paint with acrylics and mainly use Gunze and Tamiya paint. Gunze make a liquid mask called Mr. Masking Sol Kai. Like most Gunze product it does what it is meant to do. By the way there are two types I use the one with the purple lid. Both have a brush attached to the lid for application purposes.

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Find a carpet fitters' supplier, and buy liquid latex. It's what carpet fitters paint onto the backs of woven carpets, to stop them shredding when they're cut. It goes on white, dries clear, and peels off like rubber (which is what it is.)

Edgar

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i used maskol with no undue effects on a klear coated cannopy , also windsor and newtons artists masking fluid is more or less the same as maskol/copydex glue and the carpet glue mentioned all much the same formula ...

Edited by tornado64
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