modelbautony

Shunko are pretty good but again, and I know it's a bit anal, but for me there are still inaccuracies: It's that numeral - just not chunky (bold) enough... It seems to me that many of the decal producers get their references from 'historic' meets - Goodwood is a fabulous event where there are great photo opportunities and the ability to get really up close with the subject. However some life size decals applied to these present day examples are also inaccurate and cannot be relied on if you are trying to produce a realistic example of the car from the period when it actually raced.

I have ordered from LeMans decals in the past. Like you I found the accuracy sadly missing. As you say, incorrect typefaces for logos and inaccurate sizing. However, I find that many of the companies advertising 'replacement' or 'variation' decals (I can only speak for automotive) are inaccurate. Perhaps I am too critical but if I'm attempting to produce a particular vehicle for a specific race series, or even event, I want it to be museum quality. I've taken to producing my own - but that's a whole other minefield!

Thank you all for your input on this. I was convinced that I wouldn't get a definitive answer. I have to say an especially big thank you to both Motobitz for your efforts and Jörgen for the most definitive answer. I don't know how you did that - I've zoomed in and out of that picture a million times but only ever resulted in an illegible mush. From the work and enhancement you've put in on that I can determine there are a few lines of white/light coloured words and together with Motobitz insights I can put together something at least reasonably convincing. Thanks again, all of you who responded.

I am in search of a visual reference of a very specific item. I am working on a decal sheet design for 1973 RAC rally Timo Makinen Ford Escort Mk1 RS1600 'Are you getting enough milk' car, No. 13, as shown below: I am stumped by the 'electrical cutout' triangle sticker (not sure of its correct name). Usually this is a dark blue triangle with a red arrowheaded 'strike' symbol but as you can see, in this case it appears to be simply a solid (presumably dark blue) solid triangle with some white wording, which i cannot make out. Anybody any ideas? Thank you in advance and a very merry Christmas - grrrrrrr!

I admire your optimism Andreas. Do you intend to release all your modifications for sale once you have completed this immense task?

Thanks Desert Falcon, for your kind comments on both the model and the photography.

Brilliant. Thanks Malc. Now, I wasn't expecting the seat to look like that! Humph! Square across the top. Oh well, it goes along with all the other inaccuracies. Further senility is also proved - I did know about the 'Motorsport Images archive', even got it bookmarked but forgot I had until you mentioned it.

Thanks Spiny, Nick, Jörgen and Peter, your comments are most welcome and encouraging.

Ha! Well that's typical, after the horse has bolted springs to mind. Actually Malc, I would like to see that seat. I did reshape the top to what I could vaguely see in one photo. Do you have a link or address for the Motorsport Images photo archive? It's great too that you notice some things that I didn't list, on some photos the riveted panels on the body were visible but on others it looks like there were none, consequently i thought it perhaps wiser not to mention it. Love your insights about the Tamiya process too - where on earth do you get this information from?

Wow! That's very generous Jeroen. Sometimes I get too carried away with getting all the details correct, it can be very frustrating when there just isn't the research material there in photographic evidence.

Thanks Keith - now that really would be something.

If you are of a squeamish nature, look away now... I bang on a great deal about being true to the subject and history with regard to all the details on my models. This model must be the most botched, inaccurate depiction I have produced since I first started modelling, many years ago. The car number is incorrect to the body/mechanics etc; wrong stripe, wrong windscreen, wrong air inlet trumpets, wrong mirrors etc etc. In my defence Tamiya's description and painting/decal instructions are woefully incorrect and/or misleading. However I will support my tentative 'showing' here, by my builds redeeming feature... When I first started this model my immediate reaction was what on earth was Tamiya thinking when they modelled the exhaust system. I spent untold hours bending solder and puppet wire to try and improve the 'look' of Tamiya's 'dangling' pipes. A chance conversation with Malc2 on this forum and an introduction to Nick of 'Unobtainium', led to the development and production of a most fabulous 3D printed solution (available from Nick's online shop). Anyway, enough waffle - just look at the photos: Tamiya's system for holding the front cowl consists of some pretty big obtrusive screws. I experimented for the first time with some micro magnets superglued to the inside and the corresponding superstructure of the chassis - they seem to be holding. The seat is covered in a lovely thin real leather that I seem to have acquired. I've no idea now, from where, but together with some PVA glue and a dressmakers pin marker to represent the stitching, it has given a reasonable representation. Not sure of the accuracy of the shape of the seat however, absolutely no reference available. The brake calipers, front and back, are 'borrowed' from 1/12 Italeri Alfa Romeo 179 and a little scratch work; they are not terribly accurate. Nick's 3D exhaust pipes are completely hollow, all the way through. Bodywork: Tamiya TS7 Racing White from the can, no clearcote, and polished with micromesh cloths and Tamiya polishing creams. The crimson stripe and circle are Tamiya TS86 Pure Red with masked outlines, Tamiya TS14 Black. The engine is a variety metallic paints - Alclad, AK interactive Xtreme metals, Tamiya X range. I also used some Bare-Metal foil in places. Tyres had a variety of AK interactive 'dust effects' enamels and even some grains of sand pushed in to the treads. Any number of rivets and bolt heads were used, both metal from Top Studio, and resin from Plus Models (Czech). Compression fittings from Detail Master. Jewellery wire, fuse wire, Model Factory Hiro fuel line, hand coloured optical fibre, Zsus fasteners from replicas of Maryland, self adhesive mirrored sheet - and probably more that I cannot now recall. Nothing fancy with the photography - iPhoneX, daylight ring light on an anglepoise arm, black card, white card disc.

Many thanks PatW. It's always encouraging to receive complimentary remarks from those who witnessed these historic items in their heyday - not that I'm suggesting you are historic, by any means. I could easily have been there myself as an early twentysomething but only got to Silverstone once, as a spectator, for the British GP, and I cannot recall the year. Mansell was at Williams (I think it would have been an FW11?). It's strange to think you would probably have been there and we may well have seen each other.

Crikey, that's praise indeed. Thank you Zac.

Thank you. I quite agree. I was only thinking the other day whether the current Formula One cars will be regarded as design/engineering classics? My personal opinion is no. There was so much diversity too in design solutions in the 1960 - 80s.

I am really interested in this, as I've said. I wish there was something I could offer but only just beginning to learn Fusion 360. As Rob knows I have produced decal artwork for Totip sponsor version - 1984 Silverstone 1000 Km. If there is a consensus I can produce other artworks and donate a digital file for free use. I will post something here shortly.

Hi Rob. I'm no expert but might the material be Lexan, the same material used for slot car bodies, although the moulding is usually thick and crude? If it is Lexan then I believe it's a Polycarbonate. Probably incorrect. I have to admire all of you working on this.

As much as I moan about poorly fitting model moulds it does make me feel somewhat more satisfied to achieve a reasonable end result. As I said in the pre-amble to this thread, although the tyres are completely the wrong profile the hard plastic really did enable me to give a fair representation of real life wear and pick up. Good luck with completing yours Malc, it only took me 3 or 4 years for mine.

WOW, thank you.

Thank you Malc, much appreciated. In many respects it's easier to list the parts that weren't ill fitting or poorly shaped. I can't say the sidepods were warped but the instructions do not sufficiently illustrate the exact position for locating over or under the insubstantial positioning lugs and, as there is nothing to attach the upper surface of the sidepods there is some inevitable 'sagging'! It was the (?) engine cover that was, in the end, more warped. Despite, after some gentle encouragement with steam/heat etc, cutting off the outer flat areas, re-working with some nice flat plasticard, it still is the most disappointing element of the finished car, hence there are no photos with it in position!

That looks good Hugh, thanks for letting us know and very keen to have your evaluation once it arrives.

Grazie, Roberto

Apologies to Malc2 for not having credited him in my original post for sending me a thoroughly comprehensive set of research images which complimented those I had already accumulated myself from the internet. Thanks Malc

Many thanks Ian. Yes, I've steered clear of Heller most of my modelling life but they do produce some interesting French subjects that no one else does. I have a few more recent subjects which appear (on the sprue) to be better (moulded); we'll see.

A difficult base model, ill fitting, badly moulded and just plain incorrect in many parts and places. However, as usual, this gives great scope for the dedicated, or some might say foolhardy, modeller. The result is very gratifying even if It is not totally correct - there are some areas of the subject that there just isn't reference to and even common sense doesn't produce a completely satisfactory depiction; I've tried my best. Lesson learned - a complete and thorough dry fit is necessary, I nearly always find that something isn't square, but only at the very end! • Body colour - Tamiya TS 10 French Blue, over 26 Pure White - no clearcote • other components generally Halfords automotive spray cans - satin Black and weathered/toned with MIG dark wash • Chrome and other metal colours - Alklad • Seat cover is tissue worked with PVA glue, belt is inkjet printed on photoquality paper from my own artwork with resin cast hardware by Replicas and Miniatures Company of Maryland (Norm Veber, doesn't appear to produce any F1 items these days). The back (maybe a little whimsical) but one reference photo appears to show yellow carbon/kevlar • The Heller decals were useless not only because they were yellowed with age (and not even UV exposure treatment helped) but mainly they are incorrect - wrong typeface/sizes/poor definition. Bestbalsakits are by far the best for both quality and being comprehensive and the ONLY absolutely correct set. I also used BBK instrument/gauges decal sheet • I replaced every single rivet with PlusModel (Czech Republic) resin items • The air intake funnels and plug details, mesh etc of the DFV engine is Model Factory Hiro • Switches on the dashboard are by Decalcas • Surprisingly, the supplied Heller kit tyres - solid plastic, not vinyl - initially disappointing (their profiles are completely wrong), redeemed themselves with the 'hardness' of the plastic proving the perfect medium for detailing slightly worn formula one tyre texture • The Heller rear, inboard, brake calipers were... 'disappointing'. I replaced them with a pair of Italeri 1/12 Alfa Romeo 179 units (Italeri could not have been more helpful, for a cost, obviously) • The representation of the 'glass' (windscreen) in this model (and every vehicle model, especially at smaller scales) is woeful. Simple enough to re-cut it in thin acetate and, in this case, give it a very light coat of Tamiya TS71 Smoke • There are many small items that I have 'scratched' together - the roll over hoops are 2.5mm solder for instance