dromia
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Posts posted by dromia
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Moving to "acrylics" will still need the same respiratory protection as you use with enamels. Water based "acrylics" may not smell as bad as enamels or be as toxic but they do create aerial particles that means an extraction fan and a particulate mask are still needed.
Combine that with the weaknesses of "acrylic" as a paint compared to enamels as has been described above and for me at least there is no gain in using "acrylics" and much to be gained by using enamels especially with the advent of good odourless enamel thinners like those sold by Colourcoats, I use Naphtha for cleaning and some thinning which is cheap when bought by the gallon this again has little smell so they don't disturb the domestic harmony.
I started using Aeromaster "acrylics" when they first appeared in the 90s and felt then that they had some merit but left the hobby shortly afterwards. On getting back into it again a few years ago I went with "acrylics" for the first year but was so disappointed with their performance that I reverted to my enamels and have never looked back.
They can be made to work as many "acrylic" painted examples on here testify but the faff on to get something almost as good as enamels to me just wasn't worth the effort or expense.
I do however use from time to time Stynlrez primer, if all "acrylics" were like this then that would be a step change for them.
Stynlrez is sold re-labeled by UMP as the Ultimate primer and by AK as One Shot.
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I have ordered one of each, been longing for a flea kit for years and the Aeroclub kit is very elusive and sells for funny money when they do appear.
There is a photo etch example which I wouldn't touch being photo etch adverse.
I have ordered these with a little trepidation as cyanoacrylates are the work of the devil and will not be used by me so quick cure epoxy will be my route, the construction seems simple enough, famous last words, but the site says that the resin is brittle so getting pieces free from their tress could be fraught.
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Aye I have the same image which I don't find very helpful in relation to the items on the sheet.
Peering at the photo there would seem to be a lot of redundant transfers on the sheet.
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I have the the Kits-World (yes I know their 3D transfers are just as bad as their 2D ones) ejection seat set for the Phantom. Par for the course with this company there are no placement instructions for the items on the sheet.
Some like the handles are obvious but the belts are a nightmare, I have gone goggle eyed trying to compare that which is on the seat in photographs with the items on the transfer sheet and am still none the wiser as to what bit goes where.
I am using them on Tamiya's 1/48 scale F-4B.
Anyone solved this Gordian knot of a problem.
I know there are other routes that are easier but the kit ejection seats have come up nice and some seat belts would set them off and the Kits-World is what I have to hand.
Finding good decipherable images of how seat belts fit is a real issue I find, which is why I usually end up with resin seats with the belts moulded. I have had success with the HGW belts in 1/32 scale but they are too fiddly for me in 1/48 but I like the look of the separate belts. I used the Quinta belts on a recent build they looked well when fitted but did not like being fitted and had a propensity to break. How ever I feel that I could solve that problem with some trial and error hence my trying a Kits-World set.
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Thank you.
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Any other way of knowing what this thread is about other than going facebook?
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Hannants have them in stock now.
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My father worked there during the second great war.
I like Orkney and Shetland but man they are bleak.
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Thank you for the templates, I have struggled for years trying to do anything with graphic software, it just sucks time out of my life without ever giving a result.
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Historex spares do a fine set of horse shoes.
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On the kit there are only two panels 'tween the forward wheel well and the radom, both of which appear isosceles trapezoid in shape with the forward panel having a more acute angle to its sides.
The photograph appears to show the panel being of trapezoid shape rather than square, but that could just be focal length distortion of the camera.
I would like to see that drawing you are referring to.
From the drawing in Creepy Pete's link it looks like it fits into the forward panel next to the radom part R3 on the lit.
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Thank you all for the recommendations, Burke, McLelland and Lucas's vade mecums are currently sitting in my abebooks shopping bag. I shall wait a tad longer in case further insights on choice are forthcoming.
I already have the Beaumont and the Hastings volumes, hence my focus on the aircraft rather than its political environment.
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Thank you for taking the time to write that comprehensive list and descriptions.
How much visual overlap/repetition is their in the two McLelland volumes? Are they distinct in content bearing in mind that there is only so much that can be said about any subject.
What ifs don't really interest me, what was does.
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Thank you for that reference, unfortunately as you say it is somewhat scarce on the ground, with rarity no doubt attracting a premium price.
No doubt three will become available at bargain prices when I have completed the builds.
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Ciamar a tha thu.
I am Sutherland by name and Sutherland by location.
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I am planning a TSR-2 multiple 1/48 scale build having just found and Airfix example to build alongside my Sanger and Dynavector kits.
So I am looking for a good reference source, preferably not virtual but proper books or magazines, I have the excellent Wings of Fame volume 4 article as a starter but wondering if there is anything more out there of pertinence to modellers, good photos, technical details etc.
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My approach is slightly different, I hold the end of the tree to a flame 'till it starts to melt and ball on the end of the tree, then I remove from the heat/flame and stick the melted end onto a piece of card and pull the stretched plastic from there.
Whatever way it is just a bit of practice and experiment 'till you get the feel for when to pull, as the plastic cools and if you pull slower you can get some good diameter rods although they tend not to be as long.
Different manufacturers plastic will have different qualities, my favourite is the Tamiya clear plastic trees, it is also my favourite for making melted plastic seems to be the best quality I have found for such techniques.
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If it is the reflector panel then I think that I will fabricate the reflector and show it down. If the panel and its cavity is correct then I will have a base line for getting the reflector measurements from the photo.
After all 'twas the reflector that was the visible difference 'tween a "B" and a "G" so appropriate to show it methinks.
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On the kit parts R3 slightly tapered panel fits onto R5 fuselage nose underside.
This is the location of the reflector but I cannot reconcile if it is the exact shape and position of the reflector in the photo graph, there is another similar panel engraved between part R3 and the nose wheel well. I think that panel is visible on the photo so it looks like part R3 is the location and the panel in the photo does seem to have the isosceles trapezoid shape of part R3.
Tamiya has included the reflector cover panel, or the reflector was fitted into an existing panel or it is all wishful thinking on my part.
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That is so helpful, oft read about but first time seen.
Thank you very much.
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I have decided to go with the G version.
I now have the Kits World transfer sheet, not at all of good quality but the few transfers I need from it means 'twill suffice.
I have found a a nice profile of 150642 Black Lions USS Kittyhawk, 1965. Page 123 Wings of Fame volume 1, part of a very appropriate article for the new Tamiya kit, "Navy Phantoms in Vietnam".
The green was supposed to be a patchy finish over the original grey so should give a lot of latitude for finish, sort of contrived "weathering'.
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The frequency of that daft "Existential Crisis" 500 what ever is now appearing every time the search function is tried making it unusable. Also the frequency of this notice coming up whenever you move to another page is increasing to the point where the site is almost unusable, any more and will have repetitive strain injury hitting the refresh icon.
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I use Mek Pak which I find far superior to Tamiya extra thin.
Most plastic glueing is done with the thickest tube glue I can get, currently working my way through a 40 tube box of old Airfix polystyrene cement, a fine glue with some body to it unlike the currently available tube glues that are far too runny for my needs
Cyanoacrylate is the work of the devil and an adhesive abomination which I will not use. I use 5 minute epoxy for etch along with PVA wood glue. I also have UHU glue which is very useful and great for clear parts where Mek Pak is not appropriate such as landing/recognition lights.
For application I use old sable paint brushes, old airbrush needles, acupuncture needles and the ubiquitous cocktail sticks
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50 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said:
@Planebuilder62, Toby, I'd love to see your Friedland set completed - plese feel free include a link here when it is ready.
@Troy Smith, sorry to hear that you've missed the saddle cloth.
It might be easier to replace the cloth than to adapt to a trooper - are you aware that Historex Agents sell spare parts for Historex kits - or conversions.
Take a look at their website, go to brands, then Historex Spare Parts. I'd then do a browser search for British and go forward to Saddlecloths - Saddle with cloth, British style.
The Funken Napoleonic Uniforms books are excellent. My copies are of an earlier edition with white covers (and pretty battered) - excellent reference material. IIRC, volume 1 includes British uniforms along-side the French.
Has anybody mentioned "Napoleon's Army: As Depicted in the Prints of Aaron Martinet"
As I understand it, the plates in the book were drawn from life; the target customers were soldiers based in Paris, so very accurate in detail.
Some plates were reused, but that only serves to high-light regimental differences.I referenced it in reply to Troy Smith's thread on Napoleonic reference material.
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Ammo One Shot Primer
in Paint
Posted
I find it needs spraying at high pressure in my experience, I go at 30-35psi in my Mr Hobby .5 airbrush.
I am a devoted enamels and cellulose paint user but I am happy to swap 'tween MrSurfacer and Stynlrez for priming as Stynlrez when down behaves as well as an enamel or cellulose primer.
Interestingly I have a bottle of the UMP branded Stynlrez and that appears to have gone "off" it has lost it sticking ability, won't feather when sanded and just peels away like all the rest of those pathetic water-based "acrylics". The real Stynlrez which is as old as the UMP stuff still works as advertised as does the One Shot I have but that is newer about a year old.