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Dear All, Thanks again for the kind and supportive words. I really appreciate them. Mario, Aqua Gloss is water based and doesn't have a strong smell. In fact, I just checked the smell yesterday, in order to answer your question, because I always wear a respirator mask and switch on my paint booth with air extraction when I paint and had no idea about the smell... Aqua Gloss is recommended for the high-shine Alclad colours (e.g.: Airframe Aluminium) but can also be used with regular shine colours and non-Alclad paints to give a gloss finish. It is also superb for protecting transparent parts. I always give them an Aqua Gloss bath and their transparency becomes stunning. I've never used Future or similar products, so I can't compare. I also have the Gloss Kote from Alclad but haven't used it yet. I believe this is not as good as Aqua Gloss for preserving the high shine finish, but should be ok with regular shine colors. Please feel free to ask additional questions. Cheers, Jaime

Thanks for your kind words and for the tips. I'll leave the canopy open, so the belts will be quite visible. I'll look for a thinner wire and will try to replace what I've already installed. I'll also be extra careful with the tires.

This is the second WIP post on the Bf 109 G10 by Revell. I did a few corrections to the more glaring errors, though this was not my main objective for the build. I decided to follow Rato Marczak's technique for building more realistic navigation lights. I cut two roundels of clear sprue and etched the wing tips on the navigation lights' positions: IMAG1438 IMAG1439 The roundels where drilled with a 0.3 mm mini-drill: IMAG1441 then I filled the holes with transparent red and transparent blue paint: IMAG1443 While I was dealing with the wings, I followed Rato's directions in order to make proper cartridge ejection holes. I started by drilling the positions of the holes: IMAG1444 The holes were squared with a nº 11 x-acto blade: IMAG1445 Then, I cut small strips of Evergreen 0.5 mm thick plastic sheet in order to build the ejector walls: IMAG1447 These where glued in place and the exterior facing sides were painted RLM 66 with a small paintbrush (just to make them dark). I also glued the painted clear roundels in the wing tips: IMAG1451 The clear roundels were sanded to shape: IMAG1461 IMAG1462 Here's the end result: IMAG1463 Before gluing the two fuselage halves together, I cut the front piece (where the propeller should fit) so that I could install the exhausts after the main painting: IMAG1418 I also used putty to make some rivets disappear. In fact the kit has a quarter circle of rivets over the engine covers, which is not to be found in any picture or technical diagram of this aircraft: IMAG1416 After gluing the fuselage halves together, I installed the air intake, which was previously drilled to make it more realistic (the original piece has no air admission hole...): IMAG1485 I also installed a piece of plastic, carved out from sprue, to represent the battery box, on the back of the cockpit: IMAG1511 I'll continue tomorrow. Thanks for looking. Jaime

Graham, Thanks for the advice. I'm afraid it is too late now for additional modifications in the model. Anyway, my initial objective was to built it OOB and try my first mottled camouflage. In the way I ended up making a few error corrections but just those that where more glaring. I'll make a few additional posts to show them. Thanks again. Jaime

Patrick, Thanks for the tip. I'm afraid my local hobby shop has neither the resin propeller nor the heller kit in stock. They would have to be ordered from the sellers and that would take at least 3 weeks. As I'm just finishing the model and have already applied the spiral decal to the propeller cone (I'd have to source a new decal sheet or try to mask the resin cone and paint it), this is not an option right now. However, I'll take note of your tips for a future build. Curiously, the resin propeller with cone, from Quickboost, would cost about 4 € and the kit at least 12 €. By the way, the Heller kit has a great box art! Is the kit any good? Or is there a better 109 K? Thanks again Jaime

Excellent work Tom! I intend to build one of these for the upcoming Battle of Britain GB. I think I'll have to get the Do 17z plus Paul Defiant boxing, in order to have decals within the time frame of the Battle. It seems that the particular aircraft you built was shot down over Britain on the 3rd of July 1940, a few days before the official start of the Battle.

Funnilly I did one when I was a kid. I believe it was an E-3 or E-4, but I lost track of it long ago.

Dear All, This is also a model I'm nearly finishing, but still with some work to do. I started it back in December 2014. The objective was to consolidate my skills with two-colour upper camouflage aircraft of the WWII. I was also a bit worn out with seam treatment on the Grumman Duck I was building at the time (see RFI post here), so I guess an Academy kit with good fit would be a good change of affairs. Here is the box and contents. This is the Academy double kit box commemorating the 70th anniversary of D-Day, containing the Spitfire Mk XIVc and the Typhoon Ib. For the Spit we have two grey sprues and a clear sprue. The decals are not shown but allow the choice of two different aircraft, either with or without D-Day stripes (which are provided as decals). IMAG1146 The kit is highly detailed and has excellent fit, as can be seen from the following photos of dry-fit tests. First, a dry fit of the cockpit parts and fuselage side, showing the excellent interior detail: IMAG1153 And now, a dry fit of the main parts: IMAG1154 Here it is, side by side with my completed Spit Mk I (RFI here): IMAG1155 I started by giving the canopy parts a bath in Alclad Aqua Gloss, to improve transparency, and, after drying overnight, masked them with Tamiya tape: IMAG1216 IMAG1217 IMAG1218 IMAG1219 IMAG1220 IMAG1221 I also drilled out the exhausts, to give them a more reallistic look. I used a 0.3 mm mini-drill: IMAG1148 Then, I moved on to the cockpit. The instrument panel was painted: top flat black, bottom interior green (Gunze H312 Green). The dials were dry brushed in flat white, yellow and red (according to pictures of the real thing). Dry-brush with silver provided a worn look. Micro flat was applied to give a flat look. To finish with, a drop of Aqua Gloss was applied in the centres of the dials, to simulate the glass covers: IMAG1286 A similar treatment, including a brown wash with Vallejo acrylic washes, was given to the cockpit sides: IMAG1287 IMAG1283 Seat belts were made out of Tamiya tape and aluminium wire (maybe too thick a wire...): IMAG1281 And then applied to the seat: IMAG1288 The cockpit parts were glued together: IMAG1296 IMAG1297 And then, glued to the fuselage side: IMAG1301 That's all for now. Hope you like it. Cheers Jaime

Patrick, Thanks for your post. I'm afraid I'm too nearly finished to replace the propeler with an AM substitute...

Dear Fellow Modellers, I've started this model back in November 2014 and I'm nearly finishing it. However, since it is still a WIP, I thought I could post the main building steps here. The kit is the Revell Bf 109 G10 in 1/72. This is the box and contents - just two gray sprues, one clear sprue and decals for two aircraft. 37 parts in total: IMAG1105 My main objective when I bought this kit was to try to properly paint a mottled camouflage. As you'll see later on, I tried a few other techniques, namely some scratch buiiding, in order to correct some lack of detail / errors. I chose the option of the IV. Gruppe/JG 27, early 1945, Berlin aircraft, with yellow underside wing tips. I didn't find any information on the individual aircraft portrayed by Revell, but found several sources about Bf 109 G10 aircraft (109 lair, barracuda decals Part I and Part II), which I used to correct the painting instructions and other details. I was also inspired by the excellent build of this kit made by Rato Marczak, though for a different individual aircraft. This virtual view of a Bf 109 G10 cockpit was also useful. My first step was to cut out the main parts (fuselage, wings, cockpit components) and make a dry-fit test, to check potential fit and seam problems: IMAG1109 There was nothing specially problematic. Next I cut out the canopy, gave it a bath of Alclad Aqua Gloss, which I found to be a superb product to bring out the transparency of clear parts, and let it dry overnight: IMAG1222 When dry, I masked it with Tamiya masking tape. Here are a few steps of the masking process: IMAG1223 IMAG1224 IMAG1225 Then, I proceeded to the cockpit. Luftwaffe aircraft of this period had their cockpits painted RLM 66 Schwarzgrau (Black Gray). The instrument panel was given some color according to pictures of the real thing. The backs of the dials were painted black and the rims of some of them were dry-brushed with yellow and red. A dry-brush with silver was applied to provide a worn off look. A flat coat of varnish (Micro Flat) was then applied and, in the end, the dials were covered with a drop of Alclad Aqua Gloss, applied with a toothpick, to simulate the dials' glass covers: IMAG1290 The cockpit base, seat and control column were also painted RLM 66, dry brushed with silver, and washed with a Vallejo brown acrylic wash. Finish is Micro Flat. IMAG1292 The cockpit sides were subjected to the same treatment: IMAG1293 IMAG1294 At this point in the build I intended to display the aircraft with a closed canopy, so I considered the existing cockpit detail to be good enough. Here is the cockpit base, seat and instrument panel already glued together: IMAG1419 IMAG1421 And now glued to the fuselage: IMAG1425 IMAG1426 IMAG1427 Well, I guess this is enough for the first post of this WIP. Hope you found it interesting. Thanks for looking. Jaime

Thank you louiex2. I always set specific objectives for each build, be it learning new techniques or consolidating skills. Since I'm really just returning to the hobby, I have a lot of techniques to try and skills to consolidate. Anyway, I'm a bit obsessed with detail and accuracy and also try to research the individual aircraft or similar examples in order to avoid glaring accuracy mistakes. Cheers Jaime

Thanks to all for the kind words. The kit was really difficult for me to build due to the fit and seam problems I mentioned. On the other hand, I must say I still haven't mastered the art of seam treatment... that's one of the areas I dread the most (that and rescribing...). I guess this model would be a piece of cake in more experienced hands. Anyway, in the end I was quite pleased with the colourful result as well. As said, this was an almost purely OOB build. I only drilled the ends of the exhausts with a 0.3 mm mini-drill: and kind of "scratch built" the bomb holders under the wings. Though these would not be used by 1948 and by a rescue squadron, it seems these holders were kept: I just used the kit parts and transformed each pin in a kind of claw, as per the following pictures. Here are the two bomb holders. I've already cut the pins of the bottom one: The holder was glued in place and the pins were cut in half and glued in a claw-like fashion. Here's the front "claw": This holder is ready: The end result was this: Well, nothing too sophisticated and not perfect but I believe it improved the looks of the aircraft compared to the original straight pins. Thanks for looking.

Dear Fellow Modellers, Feeling really encouraged by the reception to my first two RFI posts, here is my third This time I'm presenting the Airfix Grumman OA-12 Duck 1/72, in the colours of the 10th Rescue Squadron, USAF, Elmendorf, Alaska, 1948. I started this model in parallel with the Hurricane (posted here) and Spitfire (posted here), in early August 2014. However, just after finishing the cockpit and closing the fuselage, I left it untouched for 2 and a half months, while finishing the other two. I only managed to finish it by the end of January 2015. This kit is a very old mold (1968, according to Scalemates). As such, it was a nightmare to build, since nothing seemed to fit or align properly... Seams were very hard to treat and the general fit of parts was poor. On the other hand, the cockpit detail is bare and the surfaces have raised panel lines and gigantic bolts. I didn't try to solve these detail/surface problems because my objectives for this buid were: gain experience with Alcald paints build my first biplane with full rigging So, here are the pictures: Details of the rigging are shown in the following photos: To conclude, a few words about the techniques: Primed with Alclad II Gray Primer and Microfiller Metallic paints are all Alclad II (regular shine): Fuselage: Alluminium Wings: White alluminium Struts and landing gear: Duralluminium Engine and exhausts: Gunmetal Engine couling: Semi-Matte Alluminium Hook: Steel Red, Blue, Yellow and Interior Green are Gunze Acrylics, Flat Black is Tamyia Acrylic Weathering: dry-brushing with silver on the engine, nothing else Top wing with struts was glued to the bottom wing after finishing painting Decals applied according to the usual method (Micro set/Micro Sol). Went on beautifully. Rigging holes drilled on the wings and fuselage, according to pictures of real planes and the box art, before priming used elastic fishing wires, glued with super-glue (CA glue), after main painting was finished (this aircraft had no stretchers for the rigging. The rigging passed through holes on the wings and fuselage) rigging brush painted with silver after installation (some complicated masking was needed to protect the aircraft painting) General finish is Alclad Aqua Gloss, except for the anti-glare black panel and the propeller, which are flat (Micro flat) As a first experience with Alclad I can say I was pleased with the results and found these metallic paints easy to use, contrary to much of what is said on the net. They provide a realistic metallic finish and the only difference to acrylic paints is the different primer and the different thinner used to clean the airbrush (cellulose thinner). Apart from that, they are pre-thinned, can be used directly from the bottle and dry fast. As long as the surface is properly primed and without defects, all works fine. Hope you like it. Please let me know what you think. Cheers Jaime

Thank you all for your kind and supportive words. I really feel encouraged to keep posting my other works. Thanks again! Joachim: microscopic or not, all suggestions are welcome. I'll take it into account in future builds. Thanks! Jaime

Thank you all for your warm welcome and kind words. You're really a bunch of supportive people Stew: thanks a lot for your opinions and please don't feel ashamed for suggesting improvements or pointing out errors. I really appreciate the time you took for posting your views. Regarding pre-shading, my experience up to now is that it really only works under light colours, typically the undersides of aircraft. Thanks for the info on the yellow tips. I'll take it into account in my current Spitfire Mk XIV and future builds. AM: in fact I applied a Micro Flat coat but it seems a bit shinier than my Hurri (same flat finish product - see my second post here). In other models I've found Micro Flat to be a bit "hit or miss". It seems it must be really well shaken before application in order to produce an acceptable flat finish. And please, don't feel bad about pointing that out. I'm really glad to hear about yours and the others' opinions and suggestions! Regarding Spitfires, yes: I'm currently finishing the Academy Mk XIV in D-Day guise (I'll post about it soon) and have a few more in my stash The Duck will be posted soon too! CedB: you're right - I was too eager to make the decals conform to the surfaces and panel lines and touched them too soon. Thanks for your link, that's exactly my technique for decals, but I've grown more patient in the meantime Joachim: thanks for the kind words. I'll take note of your recommendation. I'll look for it in a Arts shop and give it a try. David: thanks for your kind words and suggestions. I'll take good note of them.

Hello again, This is my second completed model: the Revell Hurricane Mk IIc. Markings are for No.336 (Greek) Squadron, Desert Air Force, RAF, LG (Landing Ground) 8 Mersa Matruth, Egypt, 1944. The build is completely OOB. Only added the antenna wire made from elastic fishing line, painted with a black marker. Here are the pictures: Some notes on the build: Cannon and exhausts tips drilled out with a 0.3 mm mini-drill Primed with Tamiya acrylic XF-19 Sky Gray Pre-shaded with Tamiya acrylic XF-1 flat black Underside Vallejo Azure (acrylic) Upper camouflage and all other colours (except flat black): Gunze Aquous Microscale Micro Gloss before and after decaling Decaling using Micoscale's Micro Set and Micro Sol. Decals were thin and comformed very well to the surfaces Upper camouflage faded using highly diluted Tamyia's Desert Yellow Sludge wash with Vallejo brown acrylic wash Chipping: dry brushing with silver for the worn out metallic areas Pigments: Vallejo desert dust (unfortunately disappeared after applying flat varnish) and black powder for exhaust and cannon stains This photo shows the weathering of the undersurfaces and main gear. The cannon stains are clearly visible. Some desert dust can be noticed on the main gear and main gear wells: Here we can see my first two models side by side. The first one is a Spitfire Mk I (RFI here) I believe the Hurricane turned out better than the Spitfire. Thanks for your attention. Looking forward to your opinions! Jaime

Dear fellow modellers, I've recently signed up, after several months reading and learning here at Britmodeller. My introduction post can be found here. This is my first RFI post. It's the Airfix Spitfire Mk I 1/72. It was my first model after returning to the hobby and served as a "guinea pig" for my learning of all essential modelling techniques. I did it from 1 July to 9 October 2014. In parallel, I started working on a Revell Hurricane Mk IIc 1/72 (which I concluded shortly after - I'll also post it in the RFI area) and also on an Airfix Grumman Duck (which I only managed to finish by the end of January 2015 - I'll also post it as RFI). Here are the pictures: Since this was my first attempt, it isn't perfect. In fact, I did a lot of mistakes and had to paint most of the aircraft two or three times. In the end, the canopy didn't fit and I had to file it. Some notes on the techniques used: mostly OOB, only added seat belts made fromTamiya tape and antenna wire made from elastic fishing line (painted with a black marker) drilled holes on the exhaust tubes using a 0.3 mm manual mini-drill primed with Tamiya XF-19 sky gray pre-shaded with Tamyia flat black acrylic XF-1 masking for the upper camouflage used blu-tack "worms" plus a combination of Tamyia tape and kitchen cling film (I try to minimize using tape to avoid paint peeling) Mostly painted with Gunze Aquous paints. Flat black was Tamyia acrylic XF-1. Microscale Micro Gloss applied before and after decaling. Used Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol for decaling. The decals where a bit thick and I ripped some when trying to make them conform to the deep panel lines. Brown wash from Vallejo acrylic line of washes. It was a sludge wash followed by wiping with a moistened swab after 15 min drying time. Chipping of worn areas simulated by dry brushing with silver paint. Not the best option because there wasn't much surface relief for the paint to adhere to. But, on the other hand, the effect is very subtle. Microscale Micro Flat applied after wash and chipping Vallejo pigments used for mud and dirty marks on the undersurfaces, tail wheel and in the main gear legs, wheels, doors and wells. Mixed with flat varnish, resulting in a very mud-like appearance. Vallejo pigments used for exhaust stains and machine gun stains. For the first application I mixed the pigments with flat varnish and didn't work well (seemed like black paint). I had to remove this mess and reapply the dry pigments with a paintbrush, rubbing the pigments on the fuselage and wings. This resulted much better. The pigments were fixed in place with Micro Set. Please let me know what you think. As a first attempt I was pleased enough with the results. The main purpose was learning modeling techniques and this I did achieve. The following models where more perfect than this one, I believe. Thanks for looking. Jaime