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Everything posted by jrlx

  1. Thanks a lot! It's my first submarine, I wasn't sure about the weathering and tried to not overdue it.
  2. I swear it's a plastic base. The WIP pictures don't lie I believe the "puppy" is some kind of remote controlled mini-sub but I must admit I didn't look for information on it. Cheers Jaime
  3. Thanks David! Very kind and much appreciated!
  4. In reply to @Adm Lord De Univers request, here are some pictures of the base, showing the wood-like effect I tried to achieve: IMAG7454 IMAG7455 IMAG7456 IMAG7458 IMAG7459 The base was primed with Alclad Black Primer and Microfiller. Next, the holders were painted Gunze Metal Color MC219 Brass, which provides a very good metal effect. After masking the holders, I painted the base with Gunze H84 Mahogany. This was gloss coated with Microgloss and the wood grain effect was done by spreading spots of AMMO MIG-3512 Oilbrusher Dark Brown along the length of the base using a flat brush. To seal both the base and holdera, I applied a good coat of Alclad Gloss Kote. Hope this is helpful. Cheers Jaime
  5. Hi David, thank you very much for your interest and kind words. Much appreciated! I'll certainly post close up photos of the base. I'll do it tomorrow and let you know when the thread is updated. Cheers Jaime
  6. I added a link to the RFI photos in the last post of the build. It can also be accessed here. Cheers Jaime
  7. Hello, This is my build of Hobby Boss 1/350 USS Greeneville. It's also my first submarine and maritime build since I returned to the hobby in 2014 (I'm mainly an aircraft guy). It is a simple kit to build and comes with a few PE parts to improve the propellers. Most effort was spent trying to get a (hopefully) realistic weathering. This was obtained by a combination of different tones of gray on the black areas of the model, pre-shading, grey wash and staining along the waterline. The WIP thread can be found here. Here are the pictures of the finished model. All comments are very much welcome. IMAG7429 IMAG7430 IMAG7431 IMAG7432 IMAG7433 IMAG7434 IMAG7435 IMAG7436 IMAG7437 IMAG7438 IMAG7439 IMAG7440 IMAG7441 IMAG7442 IMAG7443 IMAG7444 IMAG7445 IMAG7446 Cheers Jaime
  8. Thank you very much Richard, and thanks for the links. I'll take that into account for my next subs. I have the Zvezda 1/350 Kursk in the stash for a future build. Cheers Jaime
  9. Thanks Jeff! Much appreciated! I couldn't find much information on weathering submarine models,, so I had to improvise in order to try and reproduce what I saw in the pictures of the real thing. Cheers JR
  10. Hello again, Continuing with the build, I took some time to think about how best to weather the model. I opted to keep it subtle and decided to create some tonal variation on the dark top half of the hull. For that, I applied a pre-shading layer using white, along the lines of water flow when the sub is floating on the surface: IMAG7395 This was followed by thin layers of NATO Black: IMAG7396 After removing the masking, I got this: IMAG7397 IMAG7398 A microgloss coat was applied in preparation for the decals. Here's the setup for decaling: IMAG7400 There are few decals to apply, only the ID number on the sail and the water line scales on the bow and rudder: IMAG7401 I also decided to try and replicate a would finish for the base of the stand. First, I gloss coated the base and, next, I applied spots of dark brown oil, which were spread with a flat brush to simulate the wood grain. Here's the mahogany-painted and microgloss-coated base: IMAG7402 After spreading the dark brown oil: IMAG7414 IMAG7415 I still wanted to weather the model a bit more, in order to reproduce the weathering below from the waterline, as seen in this picture: My first approach was to use a grey wash by Vallejo. Here's the set-up (the model had another microgloss coat to seal the decals): IMAG7416 Before applying the wash, I applied masking tape along the waterline: IMAG7417 The tape was loosely held to the hull, in order to allow the wash to spread unevenly below the waterline. IMAG7418 The wash was applied vertically from the walkway to the waterline. The excess was removed with damp cotton buds shortly after. It worked but the wash tone was too dark and didn't stand out from the top hull's tone. In order to produce a better result, I decided to apply highly diluted Sky with a sponge over the matt wash. I didn't remask along the waterline. Here's the tool: IMAG7421 The resulting weathering: IMAG7422 A flat coat (Alclad) was applied to the model, mini-sub and small parts. Next, I glued the propeller of the mini-sub: IMAG7423 The same for the main model: IMAG7425 The pointy thingies where glued in place on top of the sail: IMAG7425 Finally, the mini-sub was piggy-backed on the submarine: IMAG7426 The completed model on the stand: IMAG7427 I'll post better pictures latter in the RFI area. Thanks for looking. Jaime NOTE: the RFI photos can be found here.
  11. Hello again, This kit is simple assembly-wise and there aren't significant fit problems. The horizontal seam between the two hull-halves was almost completely eliminated with sanding and polishing sticks. I had to use bits of thin plasticard sheet to fill in a few gaps I myself created when carving out the slots for the fins. The only gap due the kit parts was in the join between one of the tail planes and the hull: IMAG7359 IMAG7362 The narrower gaps and seams were taken care of with PPP: IMAG7363 The few PE parts were, then, dealt with. There's one for the propellers of the piggy-backed sub. Here is a comparison with the plastic version: IMAG7360 IMAG7360 There are PE parts for the hatch on the sail: IMAG7364 And there's a pair of PE parts for the sub propellers. I guess they should be glued together for increased strength. So, I cut one off the frame and CA-glued it to the other: IMAG7365 Here's the end result: IMAG7366 The smaller parts were cleaned of moulding marks and glued to toothpicks for painting: IMAG7367 The sub and the smaller parts were all primed with Alclad's Black Primer and Microfiller: IMAG7374 PPP was used again to tackle small seams along the hull joins. This wasn't very successful and in the end these seams were made to vanish with thin layers of primer: IMAG7376 IMAG7382 The propellers were painted brass: IMAG7383 The same for the holders of the stand: IMAG7384 Next, I used Gunze's Rousset to paint the hull: IMAG7385 The hull was masked using a combination of masking tape and kitchen cling-film: IMAG7386 The rest of the sub should be black but a real sub is never like that. I used several pictures of the real thing for inspiration for the choice of colours. This was especially interesting for showing several tones of grey on the hull, walkways and sail: I chose RLM66 for the lighter grey tones on the sail, Gunze's ocean grey for the walkways and Tamiya's NATO Black for the hull. I initially chose Gunze's Tire Black for the darker greys of the sail but it proved too dark for my likings and was painted NATO Black as well. Here's the application of the RLM66 grey on the sail and ocean grey on the walkways: IMAG7391 Next, I masked these areas before applying the NATO Black to the hull: IMAG7392 IMAG7393 The Tire Black intended for the sail proved to be too dark but I used it to cover the oversprays of rousset and greys before proceeding: IMAG7394 That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  12. Dear All, While building my He 178 V1, which fought me every step of the build, I decided to build something really simple to have some breaks from the fight. I opted for a submarine. So, here is the build thread of my first modern submarine: the Hobby Boss 1/350 USS Greeneville. For starters, here are the mandatory pictures of the box art and box contents: IMAG7236 Apart from the hull halves and stand, there are only two sprues: IMAG7237 There's also a small PE fret: IMAG7238 Finally, a small decal sheet. However, according to the painting and decal instructions, decals 1, 6 and 7 are not used. IMAG7399 The build started with the sail and the horizontal tailplanes: IMAG7267 It was necessary to carve out indents for the foreplane. I overdid it, as only the curved indents were needed: IMAG7268 The foreplane was glued in place: IMAG7269 Indents were also carved out for the horizontal tailplanes: IMAG7270 The small submarine that piggybacked on the bigger sub was glued together: IMAG7271 A few holes had to be drilled out on the top hull half. These holes are for installing the pads on which the small submarine is installed: IMAG7272 The hull halves were glued together: IMAG7273 There are a few spots demanding attention. For instance, this rectangular depression near the horizontal fin of the small sub needs a piece of plasticard: IMAG7274 The areas around the foreplane also need attention, due to the excessive carving out: IMAG7291 IMAG7292 The sail was glued in place: IMAG7302 The pads for the small sub were then installed, as well as the mooring bollards : IMAG7303 IMAG7305 Finally, the tailplanes were glued in place: IMAG7310 That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  13. Thank you for the explanation. I wasn't aware of these details and followed the pictures of the cockpit which I inserted in my first post of this thread. In the museum aircraft, the handles are positioned vertically and so did I in my scratch building. I'm afraid the fuselage was already closed when I read your explanation, and there was no way to modify the position of the handles (I still have to post those pictures, though). Cheers Jaime
  14. Hello @Shalako, thanks for your interest. I did progress a bit but didn't have the time to update the thread yet. I still have to solve the problem of how to create acceptable intake tubing. Cheers Jaime
  15. Hello, This is my rendition of Special Hobby's reboxing of MPM's Heinkel He 178 V1. This was the first jet aircraft to fly in the History of Aviation, in August 1939, a few days before the beginning of WWII. This kit is a short-run affair and presented all kinds of challenges. In fact, it fought me back in every step of the build. Anyway, I learned a few tricks but it isn't a "quick build", as I expected from the small number of parts. The WIP can be found here. Some notable points of the build: The kit comes with a small PE fret with the instrument panel and a few other external details but no seat belts I added seat belts from Eduard's WWII Luftwaffe Fighter seat belt PE set Panel lines had to be completely rescribed, as they weren't aligned when joining the two halves of the fuselage Metallic colours are Alclad's Aluminium, Polished Aluminium and Burnt Iron I used a black base technique (Alclad's Black Primer) and pre-shading with Gunze's Acrylic Sky The main colour is Gunze's Acrylic RLM02 Weathering was kept light: I used a dark brown acrylic wash and removed most of it (Vallejo's Greased Earth) Panel lines were enhanced using the same wash Here are the final pictures. IMAG7343 IMAG7344 IMAG7346 IMAG7347 IMAG7348 IMAG7354 IMAG7349 IMAG7350 IMAG7351 IMAG7352 IMAG7353 IMAG7355 IMAG7356 IMAG7357 IMAG7358 Thanks for looking. Jaime
  16. Hi again, This will be the last update of the WIP. The last step to complete the build was glueing the landing gear and tail wheel in place. This was a last hurdle, since there was no positive location points or tabs for the landing gear legs. On the other hand, the instructions suggested a location for the legs (top of the rectangular panels of the polished metal area) which would result in too much lateral spread for the legs. Therefore, I decided to locate the legs on the lower part of the rectangular panels. To allow for more adjustment time, I glued the legs with 5 minute-Araldite instead of CA. Here's what I got: IMAG7333 IMAG7334 IMAG7335 IMAG7336 As can be seen, the fit of the parts is deplorable. After allowing the Araldite to cure, I applied a drop o CA to reinforce the joins. The tail wheel was also glued in place: IMAG7337 Here's the model before the final step of glueing the main wheels: IMAG7338 The following pictures show the finalised model: IMAG7339 IMAG7340 I'll post better pictures in the RFI area. I'll post the link here later. Thanks for looking and for all the comments. Jaime EDIT: the RFI post can be found here.
  17. Hi again, With the painting and weathering done with, I removed the masking, being extra careful not to damage the metal painted areas: IMAG7320 IMAG7321 Unfortunately, there was some damage to the more fragile Alclad Polished Aluminium-coated area of the landing gear: IMAG7322 The canopy, on the other hand, was reasonably clear and distortion free, allowing a view of the seatbelts: IMAG7323 and of the instrument panel: IMAG7324 The metal areas near the nose turned out ok. The tone difference between the Aluminium around the air intake and the Polished Aluminium on the panels to the right can be clearly seen: IMAG7325 The blemishes to the landing gear area were repaired by brush. Alclad is not really intended to be used by brush but it works for very small spots: IMAG7326 To enhance the panel lines on the metal areas, I applied the same brown wash used before directly along the panel lines. Here's the set-up: IMAG7327 The following pictures show the results: IMAG7328 IMAG7330 IMAG7331 IMAG7332 It's nearly finished now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  18. Hello, Continuing with painting, I applied RLM02 to the model. However, when I cut the masking tape around the panels where the landing gear legs will be installed (I used a nÂș 11 blade for that), I made some damages to the surrounding area's primer, which were now very noticeable after a coat of paint. In this picture I had already started to sand the blemishes away: IMAG7298 After sanding and polishing, I got back to primer/plastic: IMAG7299 On the opposite side the blemishes were no so bad: IMAG7300 A seam on the tail fin's leading edge was also apparent and was filled in with PPP: IMAG7301 After painting, I got this: IMAG7306 IMAG7207 It's not perfect but I'm pretty sure it won't be noticeable after a coat of flat varnish. The tail fin's leading edge looks better: IMAG7308 Then, it was time for some weathering. Since this was a prototype and didn't go into war operations, I decided to give it a light weathering treatment: just a light coat of dark brown wash. For that, I used Vallejo's acrylic "greased earth" wash. Here's the set-up, after applying a gloss coat to the model: IMAG7311 I applied the wash and let it dry for less than 10 minutes: IMAG7312 The wash was almost completely removed using damp cotton buds, in the direction of the air flow: IMAG7314 Then, a coat of Alclad's Flat Kote was applied: IMAG7315 IMAG7316 As expected, the remaining blemishes around the landing gear area were reasonably masked by the flat coat: IMAG7317 IMAG7318 Thanks for looking. Jaime
  19. Hi again, I bit more progress, now in the painting phase. The model should be painted in two tones of aluminium (natural metal and polished metal) in certain areas but most of the fuselage and wings is RLM02. I started with the natural metal areas, using Alclad Aluminium. For some reason (too low pressure?) I got a grainy finish. So, I sanded off and polished the metal painted areas, before applying a new layer of Aluminium: IMAG7285 The new layer of Alclad Aluminium turned out very well, as usual with Alclad: IMAG7286 IMAG7287 Next, I masked the Aluminium areas before applying Polished Aluminum. The masking of the wing to fuselage joins was very rough for the moment: IMAG7288 IMAG7289 Alclad Polished Aluminium is a High-Shine metal colour and should be applied over a gloss black primer. So, I applied first Alclad Gloss Black Base on the areas to be painted: the panels aft of the air intake ring and the panels where the main landing gear legs will be installed: IMAG7290 Then, Alclad Polished Aluminium was applied. After allowing for drying time, the masking of the metal joins between wings, stabilisers, tail fain and fuselage was corrected: IMAG7293 IMAG7294 Polished Aluminium, like all High-Shine Alclad colours is very sensitive to masking. In order to strengthen it a bit, I applied a coat of Aqua Gloss before masking those areas: IMAG7295 Before painting RLM02, I applied a pre-shade layer by mottling Sky on the centres of the panels: IMAG7296 IMAG7297 Thanks for looking Jaime
  20. Thanks! I still have a few more steps to post, before showing the final result. Cheers Jaime
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