scotty217

thanks mate

Hello all. Does anybody know what these are? This pic was borrowed from Chris Hulme on fox2 website - this is his acct on flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/christopherhulme/ . I couldn't contact him directly to ask permission, i would just like to know what these blisters are, if possible. TIA

Thanks again fellas, I'll have to chop one in 1/32, but I'll be sure to buy reversed for my 1/48th Typhoons. Shoulda mentioned scale initially. thanks again Scotty

Anybody seen this? Saw it on ARC, looks a pretty simple technique. You can get the pens in the UK too. link edited cos i didn't get the link to work first time D'oh!

Have you ordered a pod from Dr Pepper Bobski? Does it come as a kit or will i have to cut it?

Thanks guys, I'll order in the next cuppla weeks then best regards Scotty

Hi, I want to get one of these pods for my Revell Typhoon. I know that Dr Pepper Resins have these for sale. Has anyone on Britmodeller ordered from these guys? Can you order with confidence? Don't mean any offence if the Dr Pepper guys are reading this, just thought i'd get the lie of the land as it were. TIA Scotty

There was a commando style comic with a very similar idea. German spy posing as dutch lancaster pilot, orders crew to bale out over germany on raid, everyone does apart from stroppy rear gunner who had rescued crew on previous crash landing. Spy Pilot shoots rear gunner, leaves him for dead, flies to secret lutwaffe base. Meanwhile rear gunner regains consciousness and bales out. Lanc modified with 20mm guns in turrets, "sparkle" paintjob, and spy pilot "volunteered" to fly with luftwaffe crew. Proceed through bomber stream, shooting down stray lancs by formating to port or starboard and letting loose with hefty dose of cannon fire. Sparkly paint supposed to represent plane as a "ghost" Ghost lanc (that could have even been title i think) gets shot up by ME110 G halfway through story, but lanc and pilot survive. Meanwhile rear gunner gets back to blighty, and makes a report. Cue showdown, where rear gunners plane gets attacked and evades, leads ghost plane into middle of bomber stream and rest of formation riddles german lanc. Good riddance to the dirty spy. Actually it was not too bad and the art work was pretty good if i remember correctly. Must have been a commando comic, their art was always better than battle comics in my opinion. Anyway, apologies for being a bit of an anorak. Scotty

Thanks to everyone who replied, much appreciated. Andym: excellent photos mate, hope you don't mind but i saved them onto my hd David Parkins: I just wanted to make sure i didn't have the LEFAs showing when a jet was bombed up. Your attention to detail is why I buy your products. Selwyn: ok. Sorry about the brevity, but SWMBO is dragging me out of the house to buy a kitchen. Gotta go regards Scotty

Thanks to enzo and spike (merv?) and tony for your replies, and for the pic. In the pic above the nose sections of the LGBs are coloured white, any significance in this? scotty

I think what I'm talking about is a LEFA, cos its moulded with a tiny electrical looking plug. Thanks very much for your superfast reply to both my questions, now I know what to do. Thanks again Scotty

Hello all. I recently got some RAF Paveway II/CPU-123b bombs from David Parkin of Flightpath in 1/32 to go with a Tornado and a Typhoon. David has provided the lanyard assembly on top of the bomb in etched metal. My question is: does this lanyard disappear into the hardpoint when the weapon is loaded? If any of you guys can answer this then i know not to add this peice of etch to my "loaded" bombs, or to add it to my "unloaded" bombs. I've just thought of another question: do inert bombs have this lanyard at all? The Typhoon i'm modelling has six inert bombs loaded for trials flights in the US Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. regards Scotty

It does work (honest) cos i've seen it done. You have to make sure that you let all the excess klear drain from the decal. And an extra bit i've remembered is that you have to trim all the excess carrier film from around the decals, that way you don't get a shiny surround to each marking. It's all still a bit beyond me at the moment. Tried practicing with spare decals and scrap plastic coated in any old matt paint and couldn't get the decals to lay down without moving them.

Float the decals in klear once they are off the backing paper. As log as you are precise with your placement the klear fills the roughness of the matt paint. No silvering. Don't dunk the decals in the klear, but "wipe" the reverse side over the surface of the klear. I know the theory ( sort of ) but i'm too bloody KACK HANDED to do it for real. Sorry for shouting but I really get annoyed with myself when my cows udder fingers get in the way! Not a good choice of hobby for a man with cwos duders fingers. See wot I mean, can't even type right!