Eduard Typhoon Ib Updates (for Airfix) 1:24

[Mike]

Typhoon Ib Updates (for Airfix)
1:24 Eduard

After the initial batch of wheels from our favourite purveyors of all things resin and Photo-Etch (PE), we now have some substantial updates for the rest of the airframe, along with a set of masks to cover up that big canopy. The sets Arrive in the usual flat Eduard pack with supportive card inserts and instructions behind the PE frets, except for the landing flap set that is extra-wide, and is contained in a re-sealable ziplok bag, which I find much more convenient than the self-stick bags.


Interior (23019)
The kit interior is superb, so this set isn't huge, but does include some useful upgrades to the cockpit. Measuring 7cm x 6cm, it is partially pre-painted with detail far beyond the ability of most modellers. It starts with some raised bezels for the main instrument panel, then adds a large upgrade to the two angled side panels, including lots of knobs, dials and other controls for a busy, three-dimensional look. The other controls around the cockpit are also updated with extra parts or replaced altogether with assemblies that better mimic scale thicknesses. The throttle box is stripped of raised detail and thoroughly overhauled with a proper quadrant, additional levers, and even a small stencil on the side. A section of acetate sheet is supplied for the gunsight, which is held in a new PE frame that sits on the kit part. Moving outside the cockpit, there is a long raised canopy track to be removed and replaced by a U-shaped channel with additional parts for the forward section, with ancillary guides on the lip behind the pilot's seat.

Seatbelts in PE (23016) & Fabric (23020)
The PE set is quick and easy – They're already painted, so just bend them to shape and glue them down. It's that simple, and gives a good impression of the harness, including all the straps, flaps and fixtures, with the instructions giving all the information you need to complete the task.

The fabric belt set in conjunction with our friends at HGW goes far beyond what PE can achieve, and the result is a totally believable harness that will drape realistically over your Typhoon's seat. All you have to do is put in the effort to thread the belts together through the PE hardware, which in this scale should be reasonably easy. I'm a big fan of these, and although fiddly at 1:48, they're still worth the effort. In glorious 1:24, they should be a doddle, and you'll struggle to improve on their detail and realism. They're almost mandatory if you're interested in improving your cockpit!

Photo-Etch Belts


Fabric Belts

Wing Armament (23021)
Each wing of the Tiffie has a pair of 20mm cannons buried within, and these are able to be posed open on the kit, showing off the interior. This set on bare brass, measuring 9cm x 14cm includes a host of upgrades for the detail, before which some small areas must be removed from the kit parts. A row of brackets running down the spar are shaved off and replaced by more realistic PE parts with etched holes for the fasteners. The exposed rib in the middle of the bay is given a detailed top cover, and the floor of the bay is skinned with more realistic features, plus a number of folded rib stubs and brackets. The ammo boxes are replaced with folded PE alternatives, which offer much better detail, and you'll need to add a couple of short lengths of 1.2mm rod across the open ends to support the kit ammo runs. Each of the four boxes also has a grab-handle at the feeder end, and a big bracket on the side with lightening holes etched in.

Engine (23017)
The engine provided in the kit is a work of art, so you'll not be surprised that only a few parts are added to the actual engine. The majority of the set deals with the panels, supports and formers that create the shape of the nose around the engine. The hoop at the front has the small bumps replaced with folded PE receivers for the fasteners, and has a set of small plates added to reinforce the base. The lower side panels have their curved formers removed, and a lattice of ribs added to the inner face to improve the realism, which is also carried out on the rest of the removable panels, after removing their raised internal surrounds. The remainder of the parts includes a two-layer frame and mesh for the big chin intake, which has small folding attachment brackets around its edge, and you'll need to remove the two locating tabs from inside the upper lip of the cowling to get it to fit properly. Because of the size of the parts, the set comprises two sheets of 14cm x 9cm, and a smaller one of 9cm x 3.5cm.

Landing Flaps (23018)
Arriving in the larger pack, you immediately see why, with a main fret 12.5cm x 20.6cm, and an overflow sheet measuring 3.5cm x 9cm, you're getting a lot of brass. With this kit, dropping the flaps doesn't involve much in the way of surgery, other than to remove the brackets in the flap well that hold the chunky kit parts in place. The flaps are replaced with folded up PE parts that are surprisingly easy to build. Fold up the edge of the flap, twist each triangular rib and drop it into the pre-etched groove on the inside of the flap. I was surprised just how easy that action was the first time I used this type of flap set. Because of the scale of this kit however, there is an extra fold on each rib, giving them an L-shaped profile, so as long as you are patient and fold these first using the proper tools, you should have no real problems. You'll need to source some lengths of 2mm styrene or brass rod to form the hinges that run along the forward edge of the flaps, as this isn't included in the set. The roof of the flap bay is finally skinned with some new detailed panels that mate with the wing edge and sit on the ledge in the front of the bay. Maximum flap deployment is 83°, as shown in the accompanying scrap diagram, which you could cut out and use to check their position.

Canopy Masks (LX001)
Using their standard pre-cut kabuki-style masking tape, this sheet includes individually tailored masks for the front windshield's three panes, plus a four-sectioned edge mask for the main canopy bubble. You will need to mask the bulbous centre section with spare tape or masking fluid due to the compound curves, but that's standard with this type of masks. As a bonus you also get a set of circular masks for the wheel hubs, and of course you'll get the best results after burnishing down the edges and spraying light coats of paint to avoid wet paint creeping under any lifted edges.

Conclusion
One of the best kits (IMHO) of 2014 just got better, thanks to these sets from Eduard. Pick and choose, or splurge on the lot if you plan on pushing the boat out on a very deserving kit. Don't bother looking for a Zoom! set for the cockpit though, as the set is purely for the cockpit, so there was no need to produce one.

Review sample courtesy of