Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by shood23

  1. Pretty simple follow on from the orginal thread which has now been locked. Post what you've bought as long as it falls within the automotive section. Get buying guys Shaun
  2. Tamiya Ferrari SF70H 1/20

    It's not bad but like you say not as good of a shine as 2k but with a little work can be made to shine quite well. Over a full body it works well as i used it on a tamiya mp4/4 McLaren a few years back and that's held the shine really well compared to how I thought it would. Shaun
  3. Been a while since i last properly posted on here so i though this would be a good way to come back to the forum. So this will be my build thread for tamiyas newest kit, from what ive seen so far its a nice kit with some parts i dont like but others i do. So i am going to be honest i am quite a bit into the build so i will break up the thread into a couple of comments. To properly start lets get the obligatory box picture out of the way. Basic tamiya offering from previous kits with a picture of the subject and sprues at the bottom. The inners are packed quite tight but not overly so. Decals are very nice and also include quite a bit of carbon effect decals So on to some plastic cutting. The main front parts of the body are a depature from the normal way but as you will see later its not actually a bad way. So the lower portion of the monocoque has had all the little suspension holders and support beam added then the 2 halves glued together. So about 5 parts in and already im changing the car to suit my needs. The nosecone was cut off. This is why. The lower flow conditioners would be insanely tricky to paint if left as tamiya made it. The engine (less) cover had the inner peices glued on and after the picture was joined together. So a quick mock up of the tamiya car next to my mfh car. Checking how those iconic stormtrooper style side pods fit after the issues i had with the mfh car. Gearbox halves have been glued together. Front wing checked for fit. And the same for the rear wing. So that's it for update 1, due to the time of me finishing this i will post the next few pictures tomorrow now instead of tonight. More soon Shaun
  4. Another of the builds ive been working on recently. Fujimis McLaren MP4-12C GT3. Overall its a pretty nice kit, lots of scope to improve as youll see with some of the things in doing to my build. So the obligatory box picture. All packaged in with plenty of room to spare. The standard kit livery is nice but there are plenty of options for this kit to make loads of different cars. Ive gone for these, a 2012? Seb loeb car. How it should look once done. There are issues with the instuctions that i have noticed but are all easily fixable. The body does come out of the box and looks a little weird with what looks like huge skirts down the side. Alot of wasted plastic if you ask me. With the side body parts glued on. The body and intake parts are now ready for some primer. The one area i want to change is the engine area as it is very basic. Some thing needs to be done about this. Luckily mclaren have used the same basic plug and play engine in all the cars from the p1 all tge way down to the 570s. Revell make a pretty well detailed 570s with near full engine, so the 570s and gt3 have the same engine although the gt3 engine is slightly detuned but the basic layout is exactly the same. One thing that does need modifying is the rear wheel attachments. The whole middle section needs cutting out and the upper "suspension" parts need gluing into the wheel arches. Finally for the engine how it all fits with tge changes. Rather luckily the exhaust off the fujimi kit fits exactly where the revell kits exhaust goes, it even uses the same mounting holes. Actually ome more quick picture of the engine. With the body on you dont see much of it but even what you do see makes a massive difference. The floor needed some mounting points for the framework of the revell engine. The frame and floor have both been sprayed and some minor detail painting done. One problem i did run into was how to mount the wheels on the hubs due to the kit just having a metal bar going from wheel to wheel. An old set of fujimi f1 wheel pins worked perfectly, glued them in from behind and the wheels mount on the rear now just as the do the front. Rims have been painted with alclad steel. Tyres and decals added. And finally for this first big update the body and little parts have been put in a coat of white primer. More soon. Shaun.
  5. Tamiya Ferrari SF70H 1/20

    So on to part 2 of the build bringing it up to date. So the nosecone needed a small strip of plastic card added at the top to replace the material lost when cutting it off the main body part. As seen here there would have been a .5 mm too much gap so this small plastic was very much needed. Staying at the front and these little wing flow conditioners are a slight pain. As you can see there will be a rather visible white section one added if i followed the instuctions. So i cut the little tab off the white bit, glued it into the wing and filled the gaps around it minus where the original part will go. Now going to the rear of the car and the exhaust. I didnt like how the tip looked as it would always have that join line visible on the inside, so i cut the end off and added a bit of plastic tube. The floor pan had a lot of injection marks all on the top surface of it and all in obvious places. It took a good hour just to buff them all out. After this a couple of coats of gloss black were sprayed, this is just after the tack coat. Also the engine cover has been sprayed in primer just to check the filler line between the 2 parts. The main body section has also been put in a primer coat. Mainly just because its now progressed enough to do it but also to check the join lines on the top of the monocoque. The rims have been sprayed with alclad white aluminium. After a coat of alclad aqua gloss the decals were applied and then one more coat of aqua gloss added and i must admit i am really happy with how these have turned out. Tyres have been scrubbed with a dremmel. Finished tyre on the left compared to one thats only had a dremmel run over it. At this scale 17' spec tyres (top) compared to 16' spec (bottom) isnt that different especially when you do the same comparion in 1/12. The floor has had some of the tamiya carbon decals added. Soon i am expecting a company like acu-station or s27 to do a full carbon set but tamiyas decals are really nice. Some tamiya smoke will be added also to tone the decals down as they are quite out there and loud. And finally the exhaust has been sparyed up in alclad pale burnt gold. More soon Shaun
  6. Tamiya Ferrari SF70H 1/20

    Thanks for the comment monsjmse. This one will be a seb vettel car with only a few changes compared to an out the box build. I have one more that will have as much as i can possibly change done to it once maybe some more options come out from tabu decals and studio 27. Shaun
  7. Finally!!! I got my hands on a protar lancia lc2 with a little help with a freind of mine. Shaun
  8. Tamiya Lotus 78

    Fantastic work. That shine on the black, as many here know, is incredibly hard to get as good as that. Shaun
  9. Just picked this up from hlj for just over £20. Ver.2 of the LB GT-R Shaun
  10. Before spraying..

    Personally i never spray anything on the spurs no matter now little. Great kit aswell by the way, always loved these old escort wrc kits As for attaching parts before it's entirely up to you. Small bits sometimes attached before paint pose the risk of being knocked off later on in the build but things like bonnet vents and wings are again up to how confident you are in your own abilities and if on the rear car the joins between these parts are flush or there is a visible line. And any mark that has been put on the body in pencil needs to be removed before you do any painting as if you don't these areas will not paint properly with reactions or peeling and it would be a shame to have this happen to such great car. And your line about doing it wrong, like myself in this hobby you will always find better ways of doing things through trial and error and ways that work for me may not be the best way for you. And as you said you mainly work with rattle cans so anything you do if it doesn't work out how you would like is easy to correct by putting the painted parts in a bath of ipa 91% or above for a day or 2 as this will pull any paint off the body without harming the plastic. Shaun
  11. I've been pondering what to make my first build of 2018 and this is something that's been near the top of the pile since I bought it not to long ago. As seem obligatory these days the box shot. A brief look into the a kit that I've made in the past with relatively good result. This was completed in January of 2016/5 I think so the experience has improved since then I hope. From the above kit I am now pretty aware of the areas that need a little more care and also areas where I myself can improve. So for this current attempt at this model I managed to pick the kit up rather cheaply from eBay as it had no decals but as it was the same kit as the finished fina car above I still have the majority of the decals left with only the rear gtr one and 1 other missing. Right so then it was the mindset of I have this kit now what to do with it? Test car? Another race version to go with the fina car and soon the be made gulf version? I couldn't make my mind up, then as I was half way through the Liberty Walk Nissan GT-R I came across a set of carbon decals that cover the whole exterior in a carbon wrap. So that the plan. A full carbon McLaren f1 gtr, possibly with the yellow and pink decals on aswell but I won't make that call until the body is finished. The set includes 4 sheets of pre printed templates to cut of that from what I can see covers most of the car in carbon, there are a few bits not on the sheets(or maybe I just haven't found them yet) but these bits will be easy to make myself with the leftover parts of sheet. Now on to the plastic. The shell is as nicely moulded as it was the first time with no really bad bits to clean up. I need to decide if I should just glue the rear parts on for the engine cover or maybe detail the engine bay a little. And then finally for the first update I need to decide whether or not to cut out the front hatch to show the details underneath that incuded in the kit. I guess if I do the rear it would be silly not to do the front and vice versa. Also in this picture you will notice that I have started to clean up the few mould lines that are on the body and filled the small dips with ca glue ready to be sanded off very soon. I think body work wise this kit will move pretty quick as it is only going a gloss black after primer with then the whole raft of decals to put on. More soon Shaun
  12. Aoshima McLaren f1 gtr long tail

    I did think about some smoke but I found on a test peice that a semi gloss or Matt coat really takes the edge off the effect without darkening the colours. But after I finish this next stage I will make my mind up definitely what I am going to do. Shaun
  13. Right so this is 1 half of my twin build GT-R thread. Normally I'd post them both together but the LB version came together so much faster, mainly due to the paint finish. My opinions of the kit are very high, it just fell together most of the way, the only tricky bit was basically at the start of the build when adding the wide body kit. There are no alignment holes or marks so you have to be pretty precise before gluing, that being said it wasn't too hard compared with other wide bodykit models. One major plus are the window masks as for the first time the kit supplied window masks didn't leak any paint under them. Also it was a very nice touch to have 2 piece rims where the whole centre section is separate from the outer rim Now for some tech specs. Paints used were: Halfords primer for all parts Zero paints LB zero fighter grey Zero paint gulf orange. Tamiya flat clear. Various shades of alclad. Bits added: VR38DETT engine from the Aoshima r35 pure model. Various extra decals from aventador LB sheet. So now on to the final result. This is the picture I left on the build thread but I actually quite like it so it's being added to this thread also. And finally LB's message that could change so much as we enter a new year. Thanks for looking and to all those who did and hopefully continue to contribute the the build thread. Have a great end to this year and start to the next. Shaun
  14. First off I'd like to take a minute and admit that I am a weak person. I planned to leave this alone until atleast the end October and use it as my winter build when the f1 season finishes, but after looking through the box couldn't stop myself from having a little fiddle (not that way ) and as more and more came out the box more bits were trimmed and cut off the mountings and placed together. So on to the kit. The obligatory box shot. I find it hard to believe how they fit the whole car in this as it's not much bigger than a couple of tamiya boxes. First thing out of the box is this plastic wallet. It's a nice touch compared to the last mfh kit I made. Inside the wallet are the assembly instructions and decal guide. Under the decals guide was the decal sheet and carbon decals. So moving into the box again and first out is the etch parts. There's not as many as I thought there would be considering the size of the car. Also on the etch plate it comes with some helpful guides to show how the diffuser strakes need to be bent. The tyres are really nice and don't have the fujimi/tamiya centre seem. Also it helps that the Pirelli markings have been pre printed like ebbro as it saves me messing them up like normal. A little comparison between 2 front tyres 15 years apart. On the left is the mfh front tyre and on the right is a revell f2002 front tyre. So it's now at this stage where I got a little impatient and just took every thing out the box. This is all the little bags with all the smaller resin and white metal parts. The rims are nice aluminium, very light and the tyre fit on them like a glove. So in bag 1 was the rear wing, gearbox/rear crash structure, seat, roll hoop/intake and the part for the lower part of the monocoque. In bag 2 are the unique side pods, nose cone, radiator parts, lower body parts and cockpit horns. Bag 3 was the front wing and clever oil cooling sheets. In the last resin bag are the wheel hubs and other little misc parts. Now the floor pan. This is a bit that I have spent around half an hour just looking at today, it is literally a work of art and half the bits for it are not even one yet. And finally the main body section. As you can guess for being a new kit there is little to no extra material that needs sanding off but obviously with resin it's not perfect as there are a couple of bubbles that need sorting and from a few little test the fit in some areas will need a bit of work. So this Is where I left the big beastie at the end of the day. It's easily 45cms long from tip to tail and that's before you count the rear end which sticks out another few cms. None of the white metal parts have been touched yet either as I am waiting for a new polisher to turn up. More soon Shaun
  15. 1/12 Ferrari SF70-H

    Don't worry kev ask away I'm happy to help. All the colour coats of paint I've used on this so far have been zero paints only the primers have not been. I've only ever had issues with clogging with alclad gloss black base but I'm putting that down to more my fault than alclad as it wasn't too long after i first started using an airbrush. And I use my good old trusty iwata revolution CR for everything so the clear coat will also be painted with a 0.5 at probably just under 30psi as I find that works a little better at higher pressure. But for now I need to wait for a slightly better temp and humidity day until I can even think about clear as that's the big trick I've learnt is the better conditions the better finish. Shaun
  16. 1/12 Ferrari SF70-H

    Right so before I get around to adding some clear to the body on this build (zero paint clear not Mr top coat this time) I feel I need to get all the other body parts to the same readiness. So the front wing has had all the gaps sanded through to take any extra material out properly and all the holes have been drilled and a mock up off all front end components was done but not pictured just to make sure it all sat right. Then finally some primer. The front hatch bit with s-duct was put in primer a while ago but dumbly I forgot to add the little antenna stork so this was added and all primer coated again then flatter back so it's now fully ready for white primer then the red. Its quite nicely contrasting with the red though. The rear panels that hide all the inner suspension components have also had a coat of primer added. And then finally the side aero parts have been put in primer. Not quite sure what happened to these last 2 pictures as they on on a black background not blue. Anyway more soon Shaun
  17. Aoshima McLaren f1 gtr long tail

    So a little more progress to this. The front end has had all the carbon decals added. As expected it wasn't a straight forward task as i eludedto in my last comment, the wheel arches folded up like crazy and would have left nasty stretch marks all over had I just tried to manipulate the decals flat so I cut around the panel line and redone with extra parts then the very top edges just under the windscreen did the same as the were curbing one way and around also so 2 more new bits for that. So what scale motorsport gives with 2 bit really I couldn't do with less than 6. All the slots were cut with a sharp blade and thankfully none of them messed up. Both doors are now finished and ready to be sealed. Now on to some of the annoying parts. as I spent so much time fiddling with the wheel arches and the top areas on the front carbon bits I hadn't noticed the massive fold just below the front hatch. After trying to unstuck the decal with massive amounts of Microsol to the point this happened. Empty bottle😠 It wasn't going to work. I made drastic decision to sand it back and redo And now with a whole new bit that covers quite alot of the front left side of the car (front right in the picture) And that was that I am calling the main body done for decals. So out came the Mr top coat gloss and on it went. The lights don't do the picture justice, they show bits you can't see with the eye. All the other finished parts were also covered in clear. Now while all that has a few days to gas off it's on to carbon decals on some of the other areas of the car. So the front splitter. Given the curves on this I was expecting the same as the front end bits but I guess as this is over a smaller area it made it easier to work with. The rear wing has caused some headaches as the carbon wraps around so I am having to so one half, clear coat then do the other half and clear coat again. And finally the little bits that go on the doors have had carbon applied also. More soon Shaun
  18. Right so again after a month of just sitting around I pulled this back out. Honestly this has gone to about 3rd in line now of importantness with the f1gtr taking up so much time and also as we are now in the f1 launch season the SF70H has been given a lot more love but this is slowly moving along in the background. Also another big reason why the car hasn't taken any major steps is I used Mr hobby top coat gloss on the car and that's had to of been left to fully cure before I can do anything else, I've been told it's very much like Tamiya and takes a long time to fully cure so around a month is normally the time for Tamiya so I've treated this the same. So this was the body about 3 weeks ago. And this is it now. Hopefully over the weekend I can buff out any bad bits and get on to painting the rest of the splitters and other little areas. I didn't like the wheel colour and decided to strip the plating and redo myself. This is after primer. And now in a semi gloss black look. I do need to add one small decal but this will be done later then a coat of semi gloss to seal it. And finally for this time the hood which I had to redo has finally had a couple of layers of clear added. The lighting exaggerates the effect on how the clear coat has gone down. Also I can't get a good enough picture to show the effect of the special white colour, maybe organic light may show this better. More soon Shaun
  19. As another build finishes another must start. This time I will be building 2 of Aoshimas Nissan GT-Rs, one as a stock anyman car and one of the new Liberty Walk version cars. So on to the build and the 2 cars i am talking about. As you can see these 2 have the similarities but also have the same amount of differences. So starting with the standard car. It is the 2014 spec pure edition. I did think of trying to spec this car into the nismo 17 spec but the front bumper was a little too much work to make it look good. This car will hopefully have a showroom look to it with a nice spec'd interior and painted with Xirallic Crystal White on the exterior. Rather conveniently it comes with a VR38DETT engine which will most likely end up in the other car. Now on to the LB car. This is the new release from Aoshima classed as version 1 so possibly there may be more to come in the future. Me being me I am not going to be building this out of the box, as you will notice in the picture I will be adding a swan neck rear wing and possible some rocket bunny wheels (not pictured) but overall I am just excited to be able to build an LB GT-R for under £50. Obviously with this being a specialist car the interior will be painted with a high sort of spec finish, the exterior will be using the kit decals and also be painted with LB zero fighter grey and probably top coated with a flat clear or semi gloss clear. The decals for the LB car are very nice and it's also great that they include different colours of the same decals to give the option of having light or dark paint. These are the kit rims which are very nice and are 2 peice per corner. Also they have been pre painted in black. Not sire if I have already mentioned it but these 2 kits are basically the same kit just reboxed with extra parts. Fro. What I can see these are the extra parts for the LB car. So that being said the body shells are exactly the same, the even have the same code stamp in the inside. So as these should be 2 pretty standard straight forward builds I got to sticking bits on. Front and rear bumpers are on the pure car with the bonnet only placed on. Now this is where the differences start. The front bumpers are now glued to both cars and as you can see are quite substantially different in terms of complexity. Pure car left, LB right. Mocking up the arches for the LB car. Front and rear arches mocked. Also the pure car in underneath to show the visual difference. That's it for now. More probably tomorrow Thanks for looking Shaun
  20. Aoshima McLaren f1 gtr long tail

    The scale motorsport set is alot better than I ever imagined it would be. Some of the templates were a little off and most are slightly bigger than the part the go on but any oversized bits are sorted with a sharp blade or the just roll over the edges and are hidden away. The front area If it were me I would have broken up into more than 2 bits just for ease of installing (you'll see why in my next update) but other than that any bad bits on the car are mainly my fault not the decal. Shaun
  21. It turned up today and my word is it a beautiful car. Platz or nunu who ever really made it really knocked it out the park with the parts also and the detail set with the carbon (yes I know I love carbon) and the etch bits are really top grade. Shaun
  22. MFH Alfa Romeo 159M

    Ahhh beautiful. Lovely subject. So many mfh builds going on at once, reminds me of a year or 2 ago when there was loads of pocher builds all at once. Looking forward to seeing more. Shaun
  23. Couple of purchases recently. First up a fujimi Ferrari f12. There is one of these in the car showroom near me that I've just been drooling over recently and this was as close as I can get to owning one. Then to go with the Tamiya Merc amg I had to get the platz BMW M6 GT3 with the detail up set. £55 total with free post from tiger hobbies. Shaun
  24. 1/12 Ferrari SF70-H

    Needle is 0.5 I think at roughly 22-26 psi. Clear coat will go up a little higher though as I find it lays down nicer. For now I don't touch the paint unless I have to. Ironically I did inbetween coats as a huge bit of junk got on the nose cone, this was just sanded off with 2500 grit wet and dry then recoated. After a couple of coats of clear I will sand back a little with the 2500 again then maybe 1 more coat of clear, then decals, more clear, then micromesh from 4000 up through the grades to 12000 and finally some Brazilian wax and never touch it with bare hands again. If I do anything differently for this because of size I will point it out when I do it though. I know exactly what you mean, for this I ordered 2 60ml pots thinking it was going to be like the 04-06 frmerrari red which I went through near enough 1 whole pot for a 1/20 car a while ago. But so far on the whole body I've only used around 10-15ml so I've got alot left over for the Tamiya SF70H and the DTM SF70H if I ever build them. Shaun
  25. Aoshima McLaren f1 gtr long tail

    So finally a slightly late update to this. So I made a start to the monster carbon decal work. They area little tricky in places but with a bit of Microsol and a hairdryer they lay down quite well. This top area was the 3rd decal put on and frankly it worried me as there were a few more curves in this area than the 2 side bits. But it went down really well. The most rear hatch was next up and did need a little more patience than the side areas as I needed to get the centre line centre Left all above to dry for a day as I didn't just want to power on and mess more up by rushing. Then came back and took on probably the second most worrying area for me, the rear bumper, due to it having every type of curve going. The top side went fine. But then on the side right in the curve I was worried about I touched the decal by accident after microsol went on it and I stretched the decal. Not a big issue but annoying nevertheless. Above annoyed me a little so I left this side to start on the other. Then it happened again. I broke the decal above the rear window area in 2 places. That was it for me that day, I just left it before i screwed up anymore. A few days later I came back and fixed the broken decal to the point it doesn't look too bad. Then the rear bumper decal for this side went on and thankfully there was no problems this time. All the rear covers have had the decals applied now and all are as centre as can be. And finally the door has had all decals applied. There was ment to be 2 to make this up but due to worrying about snapping the decal in the wrong place I cut them up into 4 bits to make it easier. That's it for now but next is the bit I'm not looking forward to, the front end. Shaun