Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

435 Excellent

1 Follower

About Endeavor

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    San Francisco, California

Recent Profile Visitors

676 profile views
  1. Looks good to me. Thats an interesting idea. I opted to move the front cross member back. It was not difficult. Actually, I think 7mm is about right for the Spyder. Thanks for posting this. I'm happy that someone might actually find the thread to be useful.
  2. I fixed one more inexplicable Pocher error. Like the camshafts, the 8C 2300's blower is driven from the center of the engine. The housing for the blower drive protrudes from the right side of the engine. Although Pocher got the position and shape of the blower drive right, the drive does not protrude far enough and so does not mate properly with the blower. In the photograph below, you can see that the plate that connects the blower to the drive protrudes a bit more than 2mm outward of the drive. I made a vertical cut through the blower drive so that a styrene piece, about 2.25mm wide, could be inserted to extend the drive outward. The photograph below shows tape applied to the drive to mark the location of the cut. As always, the cut was made with a flush cutting saw. Below you see the styrene piece "welded" into position. A bit more work with files and sandpaper will be required to finish the job. The blower now mates up properly with the blower drive. Notice that although Pocher got the horizontal dimension wrong, now in its proper position, the shape of the blower drive matches the blower assembly perfectly.
  3. Pouln - Thanks for the kind words. I began work on the engine and the steering box so that I can finalize the dimensions, shapes, and positions of the firewall, dashboard, cockpit floor, body, radiator shell, and fenders. I'm still deciding how much detail to include on the engine and steering box. I want to get back to the body and fenders, as that is my primary focus.
  4. Thanks, as always, for your generous comments. The engine will not have the superb details of the Alfa engines produced by builders like JoNZ, but I hope that it will be a reasonable representation of the prototypes. I have built one MFH kit, the 1/12th scale Alfetta Tipo 159M. Almost all of the metal parts required considerable work - drilling holes, removing mold lines, and small adjustments - but after each part was prepared to MFH’s specs, it fit perfectly and matched its prototype component. The MFH kit does not require re-shaping parts, scratch building, or third party parts. You are correct. Pocher parts are much more challenging because, too often, they have manufacturing defects and/or the design does not match the prototype parts. Rather than build to Pocher specs, the builder must modify components both to fit properly and to more closely resemble the prototypes. Deviating from Pocher’s specs, scratch building, or third party parts are necessary.
  5. Rather than "melt" the plugs into the head per MMC's instructions, I drilled just the tops of the holes a bit larger so the plugs fit flush. I won't have to worry about either melting the soon to be applied white paint or applying the paint in such a tight space. The photographs below show the carburetor, blower, and intake manifolds placed loosely on the engine. It took considerable work on these parts to get to this point. My kit was manufactured when the factory molds were worn, so hours were spent filling, cutting, sanding, and filing all of these parts to repair the resulting defects and imperfections. Pegs were fitted to the blower and the mounting holes were enlarged to fit the pegs and to move the location of the assembly back a bit, both to eliminate the gap between the blower and the blower drive and to make the blower align properly with the intake manifolds. The intake manifolds were separated and holes drilled for the bolts that will attach them to the blower. The molded in blow-off valves were removed and holes drilled for the scratched replacements. Below you see the styrene pegs installed in the back of the blower and the enlarged mounting holes in the block. All of the engine accessories and components will be installed using pegs, rather than being attached from inside the block with screws as Pocher intended. The generator has a brass bolt installed. This photograph illustrates one of the challenges of detailing these kits. The bolt head is too wide - 2mm- and too tall. Another look at part of the blower and a look at the wire that will be will be wound around the brad.
  6. Yes! I wondered both about the instruction to "melt" the plugs into position and to do it after painting. "busy body"? Never!
  7. More work on the firewall. I filled in the joint created by the latest surgery, drilled holes for electrical system wires, and added "feet". Not a complimentary photograph. Below you see the first cuts made in preparation for building the new, hopefully more accurate, steering box mount location. I cut the hole and removed the inaccurate bulge and the peg that located and secured the kit's steering box. You can see the "shadow" left from where I removed the "bulge". This was just the first cut. It was an iterative process. It was necessary to cut away substantially more material both on the lower edge of the opening and also to cut closer to the cylinders. Here you see the first application of Milliput to fill the opening and to fill imperfections and screw holes in the block. In the photograph below you see how I used the steering box to continually ascertain the results of cutting and filing to obtain the new reasonably accurate location. This photograph was taken in the early stages. Below you see the modified mounting location in its present state. The major remaining task is to build the bearing caps that will secure the steering box output shaft to the two pillars. The pillars were built from three different sized styrene rods welded together. The photographs below also shows the first test fitting of a water pipe kit from Model Motorcars. In addition to the usual chore of cleaning up the Pocher component part, I drilled a hole in the water pump and enlarged the two holes in the block. Lots of Milliput sanding dust. More evidence of the work required to create the illusion that the engine is not from a Pocher kit. The Pocher "spark plugs" are just small hollow cylinders. You can see them in earlier photographs. I will replace them with components from Model Motorcars. To prepare for the installation, you must remove the Pocher "plugs", grind the mounting positions flat, and drill holes in the head. Accomplishing this in a tight narrow space is a bit of a challenge. You can see one Model Motorcar plug placed loosely in its position. After painting the head and the plug's "porcelain", MMC recommends that the plugs be melted into position with a soldering iron. Interestingly, the holes you drill emerge in the proper location of the combustion chambers(!). The lack of intake and exhaust valves limits power just a bit.
  8. Really excellent. Thank you for the in-process shots!
  9. Thanks for all of your comments... SA80A2AR - After all engine components have been finished and fitted, the engine will be painted. I plan to "weather" it just a bit. Pocher Perfectionist - I am very pleased that you are undertaking to build the K73 with the same objective. I have shown the build in detail in the hope the this will encourage others to undertake the same kind of effort with this and other Pocher kits. Being able to study the similar and usually superior projects of others has been, and continues to be, very helpful for me. I hope you will start a thread of your build.
  10. Thanks for the comments and suggestions, Guys. It is much appreciated. The the pencil line in the photograph below marks the next saw cut on the firewall. A 4mm section to the left of the line will be removed to move the lower forward section back a bit.. Once again, you see the firewall in two pieces. The 4mm section has been removed from the sides of the firewall. Due to the slope of the top of the firewall's forward section, the top fits into the rear section, so the rear section will be trimmed and reshaped, then the junction will be filled and shaped. The two pieces were welded together. The rear section has been trimmed a bit, but more filing is required before the join can be filled with Milliput. Below is a factory drawing, taken from Paul Koo's CD. Note the proportions of the firewall and the position of the engine relative to the firewall. The photograph below shows the position of the bell housing relative to the firewall and floorboard of a prototype. Below is the still unfinished firewall, engine block, and head placed in position. The engine has been moved back 10mm, the leading edge of the cowl is in the stock (and correct) kit position, a 7.5mm horizontal section was removed from the cowl and the top section of the firewall, the firewall has been moved forward about 4mm so it is flush with the leading edge of the cowl, and the lower forward section of the firewall has been moved back 4mm. The white styrene tube was installed to simulate the "tunnel" through the left rear motor mount. Still a work-in-progress. Below you see the position of the engine relative to the firewall, radiator shell, and bonnet. It is tilted because it was just placed loosely in the chassis for the photograph.
  11. Fitting the new doors The passenger's door with the inner styrene skin Both doors now fit fairly well. The jambs require more work. I had problems getting the styrene to adhere to the aluminum, until I learned that CA is much better for this application than two part epoxy. (Thank you, Jo.) I began to work on the engine. I will not document this in much detail, as it is really pretty straight forward, many builders have shown their work on several forums, and many have done more detailed higher quality work than I. See Jo's engine in larchiefeng's Pocher F40 thread. The real reason for documenting the engine build is to provide evidence that I really did install the crankshaft, rods, and pistons. The assembly spins smoothly. When built, this will never be seen again. Below is the assembled bloc and the major Pocher components. Assembling the block, removing mold marks, and repairing and correcting the Pocher parts is a time consuming undertaking. Repairs to the kit parts to date included correcting the warped head, cleaning up the cast parts- particularly the manifolds, blower, and carb, and aligning every mating surface. Modifications done to date include that the two halves of the block are "welded" together, the block is reinforced internally with styrene, the screws were replaced with styrene rods, and shelves were installed near the top of the block so the head can be secured with screws hidden under the cam covers. Modifications planned for the future include that all engine components, except the head, will be installed with pegs rather than screws, brass gaskets, tunnels through the rear engine mounts, and building a proper steering box mount. Hardware from Model Motorcars will include spark plugs, water pipes, breathers, brass bolts, and decals. The engine is mounted 10mm back, the front cross member was moved 10mm back, and short styrene rods will replace the screws for the rear engine mounts. Below is the proof that that the welded block has all the Pocher internal components. I made a big mistake. Because I moved the firewall forward so that it is flush with the leading edge of the cowl like the prototypes, it is too close to the engine. The firewall is too deep, probably because it was originally made to fit the Pocher Monza. This may be why Pocher recessed the firewall into the Spyder cowl. I have not been able to determine exactly how deep the firewall should be. By comparing its depth to the size of the engine components in photographs, I believe it is about 4mm too deep. A 4mm move is shown by the pencil mark on the firewall in the photograph below. I will have to do one more operation(s) on the firewall, reducing its depth while attempting to maintain its correct appearance.
  • Create New...