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About Endeavor

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    San Francisco, California

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  1. My two cents: 1. Build the wheels first. Build them carefully and perfectly. Paul Koo and Codger show you how. This process is valuable for developing Pocher skills and Pocher specific quality control. 2. Build the chassis straight, true, and level with proper tools and jigs. 3. Assemble the basic engine and transmission without added detail. Install the complete drive train in the chassis. Make everything you install easily removable because this will be a long, complicated, iterative process. 4. Place the stock body parts, main body, cowl, hood, floor, and radiator on the chassis. Position the body properly relative to the rear wheels. 5. Look at the model. Look at the prototypes. Look carefully at the adjustments suggested by Paul Koo and the body and fender modifications made by Codger and John Haddock. Look again at prototypes. Measure proportions and dimensions. Decide what, if anything, you want to modify from stock Pocher. 6. Pay special attention to how Codger increased the torsional rigidity and the structural integrity of the Rolls. 7. Make your own plan. Be prepared to improvise and to modify your goals as you progress. This is both the challenge and the fun. For me, the most valuable aspect of Codger’s thread was how he describes the problems he encountered and how, along the way, he set new goals, developed new plans, and created innovative solutions. I think that’s what you want to emulate.
  2. Endeavor,

    Thank you for your directions, I am baffled that I’m having these issues for posting a picture.

    Again, thank you for taking the time to assist me.


  3. Below are the three major steering wheel components. The two rim parts are flexible vinyl. Holes are cast into the vinyl rims for 15 rivets. The PE part has notches for the rivets which position the PE piece properly within the two rims. The PE component fits into recesses in the two vinyl parts. It's a stretch. Below you see the parts positioned together and held in place with two wire pieces through two rivet holes. The recesses for the PE component in the two vinyl pieces are too shallow, so the outside edges of the two rim pieces do not touch. The vinyl is more difficult to work with than metal. Below you see the painted vinyl pieces, spokes, the hub, and the steering column which has been drilled at both ends to accept the hub and the steering column shaft. You also see the flat rivets. The shafts of the rivets are 0.3mm and the heads are 0.6mm. The package on the right also contains larger round head rivets which will be used later for another purpose. Assembly is a challenge because the vinyl is stiff and must be stretched for the PE piece to fit into the recesses. I used the rivets to position the PE piece and to hold the vinyl in it's new stretched shape. The second vinyl piece fixed into position by the rivets. After the components were secured with CA, there was a gap of 1.3mm around the outer edge of the rim. It was filled with two part putty. The completed. wheel.
  4. I used blue painter's tape to mask the head for a second paint attempt. Paint is Tamiya semi-gloss black from an aerosol can. Below is my rather inelegant masking job on the block. I used 3.3mm plastic tape to define the two areas and then used blue painter's tape and a plastic bag to protect the lower block. The upper block is Tamiya semi gloss black, the lower block is Tamiya gloss aluminum, both from aerosol cans, and the access panels are Tamiya chrome silver. Below you see some components assembled on the block. All are attached loosely with pegs. The water pipe, gaskets, and breathers are from Model Motorcars. The starter's plastic drive was replaced with a brass rod. The construction of the generator was described in an earlier post. I'm still deciding if I will replace more molded Pocher nuts and bolts with brass hardware. The spark plugs are from Model Motorcars. The "porcelain" was painted with white enamel. All parts are loosely in place. The water pipes that run up from the water pump (only partially visible below) are also from Model Motorcars. The blower gasket was made from 1/32" square brass rod. Two acorn nuts and the four bolts that attach the manifold to the blower have not yet been installed. I will replace some of the Pocher molded details shown here with brass.
  5. The two photographs below illustrate the type of work required to repair the Pocher kit parts. The part shown is 14mm X 9.8mm and is mounted on the top of the transmission. The repair was done with Milliput. The molded in nuts should be removed, holes drilled, and replaced with brass hardware. It's hard to know when to stop. The photographs below show the work done on the parts that make up the generator and its drive. The parts were originally to be connected to each other with glue. I drilled holes through each of the parts and they will be connected by the 2mm brass rod. The parts were painted gun metal, black, and silver. Bare metal foil was applied to the strap. Molded in hardware was removed, holes drilled, and nine 2mm bolts and nuts, three 1mm bolts, and six 1mm brass rivets were cut to size and installed. Much work with files and sand paper was required. In the photographs below, the parts are assembled loosely. They will be glued together when they are installed against the engine block. Below you see the results of a poor pain job on the block. I need to improve my masking skills. Or, alternatively, just paint the block and head silver. The black paint was removed and I'll try again. The generator looks better when the camera is further away.
  6. Looks good to me. Thats an interesting idea. I opted to move the front cross member back. It was not difficult. Actually, I think 7mm is about right for the Spyder. Thanks for posting this. I'm happy that someone might actually find the thread to be useful.
  7. I fixed one more inexplicable Pocher error. Like the camshafts, the 8C 2300's blower is driven from the center of the engine. The housing for the blower drive protrudes from the right side of the engine. Although Pocher got the position and shape of the blower drive right, the drive does not protrude far enough and so does not mate properly with the blower. In the photograph below, you can see that the plate that connects the blower to the drive protrudes a bit more than 2mm outward of the drive. I made a vertical cut through the blower drive so that a styrene piece, about 2.25mm wide, could be inserted to extend the drive outward. The photograph below shows tape applied to the drive to mark the location of the cut. As always, the cut was made with a flush cutting saw. Below you see the styrene piece "welded" into position. A bit more work with files and sandpaper will be required to finish the job. The blower now mates up properly with the blower drive. Notice that although Pocher got the horizontal dimension wrong, now in its proper position, the shape of the blower drive matches the blower assembly perfectly.
  8. Pouln - Thanks for the kind words. I began work on the engine and the steering box so that I can finalize the dimensions, shapes, and positions of the firewall, dashboard, cockpit floor, body, radiator shell, and fenders. I'm still deciding how much detail to include on the engine and steering box. I want to get back to the body and fenders, as that is my primary focus.
  9. Thanks, as always, for your generous comments. The engine will not have the superb details of the Alfa engines produced by builders like JoNZ, but I hope that it will be a reasonable representation of the prototypes. I have built one MFH kit, the 1/12th scale Alfetta Tipo 159M. Almost all of the metal parts required considerable work - drilling holes, removing mold lines, and small adjustments - but after each part was prepared to MFH’s specs, it fit perfectly and matched its prototype component. The MFH kit does not require re-shaping parts, scratch building, or third party parts. You are correct. Pocher parts are much more challenging because, too often, they have manufacturing defects and/or the design does not match the prototype parts. Rather than build to Pocher specs, the builder must modify components both to fit properly and to more closely resemble the prototypes. Deviating from Pocher’s specs, scratch building, or third party parts are necessary.
  10. Rather than "melt" the plugs into the head per MMC's instructions, I drilled just the tops of the holes a bit larger so the plugs fit flush. I won't have to worry about either melting the soon to be applied white paint or applying the paint in such a tight space. The photographs below show the carburetor, blower, and intake manifolds placed loosely on the engine. It took considerable work on these parts to get to this point. My kit was manufactured when the factory molds were worn, so hours were spent filling, cutting, sanding, and filing all of these parts to repair the resulting defects and imperfections. Pegs were fitted to the blower and the mounting holes were enlarged to fit the pegs and to move the location of the assembly back a bit, both to eliminate the gap between the blower and the blower drive and to make the blower align properly with the intake manifolds. The intake manifolds were separated and holes drilled for the bolts that will attach them to the blower. The molded in blow-off valves were removed and holes drilled for the scratched replacements. Below you see the styrene pegs installed in the back of the blower and the enlarged mounting holes in the block. All of the engine accessories and components will be installed using pegs, rather than being attached from inside the block with screws as Pocher intended. The generator has a brass bolt installed. This photograph illustrates one of the challenges of detailing these kits. The bolt head is too wide - 2mm- and too tall. Another look at part of the blower and a look at the wire that will be will be wound around the brad.
  11. Yes! I wondered both about the instruction to "melt" the plugs into position and to do it after painting. "busy body"? Never!
  12. More work on the firewall. I filled in the joint created by the latest surgery, drilled holes for electrical system wires, and added "feet". Not a complimentary photograph. Below you see the first cuts made in preparation for building the new, hopefully more accurate, steering box mount location. I cut the hole and removed the inaccurate bulge and the peg that located and secured the kit's steering box. You can see the "shadow" left from where I removed the "bulge". This was just the first cut. It was an iterative process. It was necessary to cut away substantially more material both on the lower edge of the opening and also to cut closer to the cylinders. Here you see the first application of Milliput to fill the opening and to fill imperfections and screw holes in the block. In the photograph below you see how I used the steering box to continually ascertain the results of cutting and filing to obtain the new reasonably accurate location. This photograph was taken in the early stages. Below you see the modified mounting location in its present state. The major remaining task is to build the bearing caps that will secure the steering box output shaft to the two pillars. The pillars were built from three different sized styrene rods welded together. The photographs below also shows the first test fitting of a water pipe kit from Model Motorcars. In addition to the usual chore of cleaning up the Pocher component part, I drilled a hole in the water pump and enlarged the two holes in the block. Lots of Milliput sanding dust. More evidence of the work required to create the illusion that the engine is not from a Pocher kit. The Pocher "spark plugs" are just small hollow cylinders. You can see them in earlier photographs. I will replace them with components from Model Motorcars. To prepare for the installation, you must remove the Pocher "plugs", grind the mounting positions flat, and drill holes in the head. Accomplishing this in a tight narrow space is a bit of a challenge. You can see one Model Motorcar plug placed loosely in its position. After painting the head and the plug's "porcelain", MMC recommends that the plugs be melted into position with a soldering iron. Interestingly, the holes you drill emerge in the proper location of the combustion chambers(!). The lack of intake and exhaust valves limits power just a bit.
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