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Endeavor

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About Endeavor

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  1. Adding some detail... I learned that I should have studied the plans more carefully as I neglected to drill a few holes. In addition, the building sequence outlined by MFH is much better than the plan I devised. Installing some of the small parts would have been much easier if I had not tried to be clever. Below you see the two lines I installed that run from the carburetor into the air intake. The lines are 1.0mm wire solder. Below are six pipes and a brass rod that connects the outboard starter to the crankshaft. I drilled two holes, filed off the lines left from the molds, and cleaned up the ends to ensure good CA joins. Two of the pipes are connected with heat shrink tubes and PE clamps. Below you see one shrink tube and clamp installed and a look at the PE parts. Notice that three of the PE parts have had the remnants of the sprue connections filed off and two "ears" folded up. The PE parts are 0.8mm wide. Below are the two pipes with heat shrink and clamps installed. The heat shrink tubing was applied with the gentle prodding of a soldering iron. The clamps were attached using two pairs of pliers. The steering arm was installed. There is a pocket in the firewall to provide clearance. These two photographs show the empty space between the engine and the radiator that will soon be occupied by four of the parts shown above.
  2. Below are the parts required to connect the flexible brake lines from the brakes to the chassis. The two PE parts on the left mount on the chassis for the front brakes. They are 8.6mm long. The two PE parts on the right mount the connections on the chassis for the rear brakes. They are 3.8mm long. The white metal hardware parts - MFH calls them “rivets”- are 2.5mm X 1.5mm (on the left) and 3mm X 1.5mm (on the right). The 0.5mm nickel silver wire is used to connect the 1mm vinyl tube to the hardware. The hardware connections to the brake hydraulic cylinders were installed on the backing plates earlier. The only component missing from the photo is the 0.6mm wire solder that will connect these assemblies to the master cylinder. MFH provides dimples to locate the holes that must be drilled in the white metal parts. In the two photographs below you see the dimples and the 0.5mm holes I drilled into four of the seven AL5“rivets” and four of the seven AL6 “rivets”. The holes in the AL6 “rivets” will be enlarged to 0.6mm. The AL6 “rivets” require that a 0.6mm hole is drilled on one end to accept the post from the AL5 “rivet” and a second 0.6mm hole on the other end to accept the wire solder brake line that runs to the master cylinder. To drill the second 0.6mm hole in the two AL6 rivets, I cut them off from the sprue, filed the blank end flat, made a dimple with a punch, and drilled first with a 0.53mm bit and then with a 0.6mm bit. But, then I realized that it was easier to just drill the first hole through to the other end. In the photo below, the pin vice appears to be drilling at an incorrect angle because I only have two hands to hold the pliers, pin vice, and the camera. One of the two front brake connections assembled. Three of the rear brake line connection components on my finger. One rear assembly completed. Both complete. In the photograph below, the vinyl lines that run to the the brakes have been slipped over the 0.5mm nickel silver wire. A piece the 0.6 wire solder that will run to the master cylinder has been inserted into the top left assembly. The next step will be to attach the assemblies to the chassis.
  3. The spark plug wires are 0.6mm. Additional ignition wires are 0.3mm. Below you see that the wires from the loom to the plugs have been set in place. Installing the wires from the magnetos to the loom takes a bit more time. There are two magnetos, each supplying spark to four of the spark plugs. In the photo you see that after drilling four holes in each magneto, the wires for each were fixed with CA. The next step was to feed the eight 0.6mm wires into a 3.5 mm hole in the loom. The photograph reveals the challenge. You can also see the smaller wire loom below and one of the 0.3mm wires that run to each of the magnetos. The routing of the spark plug wires on the prototypes varies. Below you see all the plug wires in place. Notice that the shrink tube hose pipes and the hose clamps need further work.
  4. The fuel filler cap is hinged like the prototype. I made two folds in the very small PE part, drilled five holes, and fixed a 0.4mm flat head rivet in place. The weathered wash finish was largely worn off from all the handling. It opens.
  5. My two cents: 1. Build the wheels first. Build them carefully and perfectly. Paul Koo and Codger show you how. This process is valuable for developing Pocher skills and Pocher specific quality control. 2. Build the chassis straight, true, and level with proper tools and jigs. 3. Assemble the basic engine and transmission without added detail. Install the complete drive train in the chassis. Make everything you install easily removable because this will be a long, complicated, iterative process. 4. Place the stock body parts, main body, cowl, hood, floor, and radiator on the chassis. Position the body properly relative to the rear wheels. 5. Look at the model. Look at the prototypes. Look carefully at the adjustments suggested by Paul Koo and the body and fender modifications made by Codger and John Haddock. Look again at prototypes. Measure proportions and dimensions. Decide what, if anything, you want to modify from stock Pocher. 6. Pay special attention to how Codger increased the torsional rigidity and the structural integrity of the Rolls. 7. Make your own plan. Be prepared to improvise and to modify your goals as you progress. This is both the challenge and the fun. For me, the most valuable aspect of Codger’s thread was how he describes the problems he encountered and how, along the way, he set new goals, developed new plans, and created innovative solutions. I think that’s what you want to emulate.
  6. Endeavor,

    Thank you for your directions, I am baffled that I’m having these issues for posting a picture.

    Again, thank you for taking the time to assist me.

    Brian

  7. Below are the three major steering wheel components. The two rim parts are flexible vinyl. Holes are cast into the vinyl rims for 15 rivets. The PE part has notches for the rivets which position the PE piece properly within the two rims. The PE component fits into recesses in the two vinyl parts. It's a stretch. Below you see the parts positioned together and held in place with two wire pieces through two rivet holes. The recesses for the PE component in the two vinyl pieces are too shallow, so the outside edges of the two rim pieces do not touch. The vinyl is more difficult to work with than metal. Below you see the painted vinyl pieces, spokes, the hub, and the steering column which has been drilled at both ends to accept the hub and the steering column shaft. You also see the flat rivets. The shafts of the rivets are 0.3mm and the heads are 0.6mm. The package on the right also contains larger round head rivets which will be used later for another purpose. Assembly is a challenge because the vinyl is stiff and must be stretched for the PE piece to fit into the recesses. I used the rivets to position the PE piece and to hold the vinyl in it's new stretched shape. The second vinyl piece fixed into position by the rivets. After the components were secured with CA, there was a gap of 1.3mm around the outer edge of the rim. It was filled with two part putty. The completed. wheel.
  8. I used blue painter's tape to mask the head for a second paint attempt. Paint is Tamiya semi-gloss black from an aerosol can. Below is my rather inelegant masking job on the block. I used 3.3mm plastic tape to define the two areas and then used blue painter's tape and a plastic bag to protect the lower block. The upper block is Tamiya semi gloss black, the lower block is Tamiya gloss aluminum, both from aerosol cans, and the access panels are Tamiya chrome silver. Below you see some components assembled on the block. All are attached loosely with pegs. The water pipe, gaskets, and breathers are from Model Motorcars. The starter's plastic drive was replaced with a brass rod. The construction of the generator was described in an earlier post. I'm still deciding if I will replace more molded Pocher nuts and bolts with brass hardware. The spark plugs are from Model Motorcars. The "porcelain" was painted with white enamel. All parts are loosely in place. The water pipes that run up from the water pump (only partially visible below) are also from Model Motorcars. The blower gasket was made from 1/32" square brass rod. Two acorn nuts and the four bolts that attach the manifold to the blower have not yet been installed. I will replace some of the Pocher molded details shown here with brass.
  9. The two photographs below illustrate the type of work required to repair the Pocher kit parts. The part shown is 14mm X 9.8mm and is mounted on the top of the transmission. The repair was done with Milliput. The molded in nuts should be removed, holes drilled, and replaced with brass hardware. It's hard to know when to stop. The photographs below show the work done on the parts that make up the generator and its drive. The parts were originally to be connected to each other with glue. I drilled holes through each of the parts and they will be connected by the 2mm brass rod. The parts were painted gun metal, black, and silver. Bare metal foil was applied to the strap. Molded in hardware was removed, holes drilled, and nine 2mm bolts and nuts, three 1mm bolts, and six 1mm brass rivets were cut to size and installed. Much work with files and sand paper was required. In the photographs below, the parts are assembled loosely. They will be glued together when they are installed against the engine block. Below you see the results of a poor pain job on the block. I need to improve my masking skills. Or, alternatively, just paint the block and head silver. The black paint was removed and I'll try again. The generator looks better when the camera is further away.
  10. Looks good to me. Thats an interesting idea. I opted to move the front cross member back. It was not difficult. Actually, I think 7mm is about right for the Spyder. Thanks for posting this. I'm happy that someone might actually find the thread to be useful.
  11. I fixed one more inexplicable Pocher error. Like the camshafts, the 8C 2300's blower is driven from the center of the engine. The housing for the blower drive protrudes from the right side of the engine. Although Pocher got the position and shape of the blower drive right, the drive does not protrude far enough and so does not mate properly with the blower. In the photograph below, you can see that the plate that connects the blower to the drive protrudes a bit more than 2mm outward of the drive. I made a vertical cut through the blower drive so that a styrene piece, about 2.25mm wide, could be inserted to extend the drive outward. The photograph below shows tape applied to the drive to mark the location of the cut. As always, the cut was made with a flush cutting saw. Below you see the styrene piece "welded" into position. A bit more work with files and sandpaper will be required to finish the job. The blower now mates up properly with the blower drive. Notice that although Pocher got the horizontal dimension wrong, now in its proper position, the shape of the blower drive matches the blower assembly perfectly.
  12. Pouln - Thanks for the kind words. I began work on the engine and the steering box so that I can finalize the dimensions, shapes, and positions of the firewall, dashboard, cockpit floor, body, radiator shell, and fenders. I'm still deciding how much detail to include on the engine and steering box. I want to get back to the body and fenders, as that is my primary focus.
  13. Thanks, as always, for your generous comments. The engine will not have the superb details of the Alfa engines produced by builders like JoNZ, but I hope that it will be a reasonable representation of the prototypes. I have built one MFH kit, the 1/12th scale Alfetta Tipo 159M. Almost all of the metal parts required considerable work - drilling holes, removing mold lines, and small adjustments - but after each part was prepared to MFH’s specs, it fit perfectly and matched its prototype component. The MFH kit does not require re-shaping parts, scratch building, or third party parts. You are correct. Pocher parts are much more challenging because, too often, they have manufacturing defects and/or the design does not match the prototype parts. Rather than build to Pocher specs, the builder must modify components both to fit properly and to more closely resemble the prototypes. Deviating from Pocher’s specs, scratch building, or third party parts are necessary.
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