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About Endeavor

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  1. Adding some detail... I learned that I should have studied the plans more carefully as I neglected to drill a few holes. In addition, the building sequence outlined by MFH is much better than the plan I devised. Installing some of the small parts would have been much easier if I had not tried to be clever. Below you see the two lines I installed that run from the carburetor into the air intake. The lines are 1.0mm wire solder. Below are six pipes and a brass rod that connects the outboard starter to the crankshaft. I drilled two hole
  2. Below are the parts required to connect the flexible brake lines from the brakes to the chassis. The two PE parts on the left mount on the chassis for the front brakes. They are 8.6mm long. The two PE parts on the right mount the connections on the chassis for the rear brakes. They are 3.8mm long. The white metal hardware parts - MFH calls them “rivets”- are 2.5mm X 1.5mm (on the left) and 3mm X 1.5mm (on the right). The 0.5mm nickel silver wire is used to connect the 1mm vinyl tube to the hardware. The hardware connections to the brake hydra
  3. The spark plug wires are 0.6mm. Additional ignition wires are 0.3mm. Below you see that the wires from the loom to the plugs have been set in place. Installing the wires from the magnetos to the loom takes a bit more time. There are two magnetos, each supplying spark to four of the spark plugs. In the photo you see that after drilling four holes in each magneto, the wires for each were fixed with CA. The next step was to feed the eight 0.6mm wires into a 3.5 mm hole in the loom. The photograph reveals the challenge. You can also see the smaller wir
  4. The fuel filler cap is hinged like the prototype. I made two folds in the very small PE part, drilled five holes, and fixed a 0.4mm flat head rivet in place. The weathered wash finish was largely worn off from all the handling. It opens.
  5. My two cents: 1. Build the wheels first. Build them carefully and perfectly. Paul Koo and Codger show you how. This process is valuable for developing Pocher skills and Pocher specific quality control. 2. Build the chassis straight, true, and level with proper tools and jigs. 3. Assemble the basic engine and transmission without added detail. Install the complete drive train in the chassis. Make everything you install easily removable because this will be a long, complicated, iterative process. 4. Place the stock body parts, main body, c
  6. Endeavor,

    Thank you for your directions, I am baffled that I’m having these issues for posting a picture.

    Again, thank you for taking the time to assist me.


  7. Below are the three major steering wheel components. The two rim parts are flexible vinyl. Holes are cast into the vinyl rims for 15 rivets. The PE part has notches for the rivets which position the PE piece properly within the two rims. The PE component fits into recesses in the two vinyl parts. It's a stretch. Below you see the parts positioned together and held in place with two wire pieces through two rivet holes. The recesses for the PE component in the two vinyl pieces are too shallow, so the outside edges of the two r
  8. I used blue painter's tape to mask the head for a second paint attempt. Paint is Tamiya semi-gloss black from an aerosol can. Below is my rather inelegant masking job on the block. I used 3.3mm plastic tape to define the two areas and then used blue painter's tape and a plastic bag to protect the lower block. The upper block is Tamiya semi gloss black, the lower block is Tamiya gloss aluminum, both from aerosol cans, and the access panels are Tamiya chrome silver. Below you see some components assembled on the block. All are attached
  9. The two photographs below illustrate the type of work required to repair the Pocher kit parts. The part shown is 14mm X 9.8mm and is mounted on the top of the transmission. The repair was done with Milliput. The molded in nuts should be removed, holes drilled, and replaced with brass hardware. It's hard to know when to stop. The photographs below show the work done on the parts that make up the generator and its drive. The parts were originally to be connected to each other with glue. I drilled holes through each of the parts and they w
  10. Looks good to me. Thats an interesting idea. I opted to move the front cross member back. It was not difficult. Actually, I think 7mm is about right for the Spyder. Thanks for posting this. I'm happy that someone might actually find the thread to be useful.
  11. I fixed one more inexplicable Pocher error. Like the camshafts, the 8C 2300's blower is driven from the center of the engine. The housing for the blower drive protrudes from the right side of the engine. Although Pocher got the position and shape of the blower drive right, the drive does not protrude far enough and so does not mate properly with the blower. In the photograph below, you can see that the plate that connects the blower to the drive protrudes a bit more than 2mm outward of the drive. I made a vertical cut through the blowe
  12. Pouln - Thanks for the kind words. I began work on the engine and the steering box so that I can finalize the dimensions, shapes, and positions of the firewall, dashboard, cockpit floor, body, radiator shell, and fenders. I'm still deciding how much detail to include on the engine and steering box. I want to get back to the body and fenders, as that is my primary focus.
  13. Thanks, as always, for your generous comments. The engine will not have the superb details of the Alfa engines produced by builders like JoNZ, but I hope that it will be a reasonable representation of the prototypes. I have built one MFH kit, the 1/12th scale Alfetta Tipo 159M. Almost all of the metal parts required considerable work - drilling holes, removing mold lines, and small adjustments - but after each part was prepared to MFH’s specs, it fit perfectly and matched its prototype component. The MFH kit does not require re-shaping parts, scratch building, or third party par
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