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Endeavor

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About Endeavor

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  1. Endeavor

    MFH 1/12 Alfa Romeo Tipo 159M

    As spectacular as this build appears in the excellent photographs, I think the experience of building an MFH kit might be required to really appreciate what you are doing.
  2. Thank you, Dan The aluminum is just 0.35mm, so it was not necessary to anneal the panels. At this gauge, without annealing, it has the right combination of being both workable and sufficiently rigid to force the styrene panels to conform to the new contours of the aluminum.
  3. Seeing your method was very helpful. All part of the learning process. Different models often require different solutions. Unlike the Rolls, the Alfa does not have roll down windows. You had the more challenging problem.
  4. Endeavor

    Fiat 806gp full-scratchbuild 1:12

    "The pulleys were relatively straightforward to fabricate." Not for us mere mortals. Just wonderful.
  5. Before building the doors, I did a bit more work on the door jambs. The photograph below shows how I faired in a strip of 0.005" styrene to make the jamb level and straight. My first attempt to achieve the correct contours of the doors was to epoxy brass strips to the back of the styrene panel. The strips were bent to shape and then epoxied to the panel. The subtle and complex contours, combined with the problem that the epoxy was not amenable to my making final adjustment, forced me to abandon this approach. I tried other methods, including combining brass strips, styrene pieces, and aluminum sheet. I finally settled on building the doors by laminating an aluminum sheet between two styrene sheets. The aluminum piece was bent to the proper shape prior to attaching the styrene pieces with two part epoxy. Below is an aluminum door panel fitted and bent to the proper contours. The door in the photograph below is constructed of the outside styrene panel bonded to the aluminum panel. Below is the door seen from the inside. The next step will be to attach a second styrene sheet, using the same pattern, to the inside of the door. Below you can see the complexity of the shape of the door. The photograph exaggerates the extent of the bends. The biggest bend is at the top leading edge. The bends in the center, bottom, and trailing edge are subtle.
  6. Chas, Thank you for posting this. As always, both instructive and inspirational. In addition, these few photographs give those who did not see your intact thread a glimpse of what they missed.
  7. Thank you, Chas Each door must have compound curves both at its top leading edge where it meets the cowl and a very subtle curve in the middle of the panel. For inspiration, I took another look at the extraordinary construction of the doors on your Rolls. The door sills on the Alfa are about 2mm. The good news is that it does not have roll down windows. I am thinking about using .7mm styrene and .78mm (.03") brass flat bar stock. The 1/4" X 1/16th" (1.6mm) flat bar stock you used would produce a door more than 2.25mm thick. Of course I could widen the door sills or carve the doors out of a thick block of styrene.(?) Looking at your thread today, I am reminded again of the loss we suffered when the links to your photographs were erased.
  8. Thank you, Dan I am a an avid follower of your Avions Voisin Record thread.
  9. One more asymmetry. After rebuilding the right side front door jamb, I realized the right door was too far forward by about 2mm. I somehow missed this. The photograph below shows both my first effort at re-building the right front door jamb and a line on the rear door jamb defining the material to be removed. I began to remove the material with the flush cutting saw. This first straight section was the easy bit. The excess material on the lower part of the jamb was removed with a hobby knife. The photograph below shows the door template set into its incorrect position, 2mm too far forward. This template will be used to build both doors. Unlike the kit, the two door openings, door shapes, and door dimensions will be identical. The rear door jam now in its correct location. Below you see the template set in the door opening after the rear jamb was moved. You can see the how much material must be added to the front jamb. The photograph below is a work-in-process shot. The completed jig saw has eight pieces. The plastic came from the material that was removed from the cowl and spare wheel well. Pieces were welded with solvent and will be reinforced later from the inside. The rebuilt front jamb before any sanding, Milliput, or body putty. Here is the template in the new door opening. There is still much work to be done. The final dimensions of the door openings will not be finalized until the doors have been built and fitted.
  10. A ruler, a digital caliper, and my eyes are my primary measuring tools. I use the contour gauge to make the final measurements when I reach the point where I think the contours are just about correct and to confirm that the body is symmetrical.
  11. To determine the final width of the rear of the body, I took a series of measurements along its widest sections. The pencil line is just above where the rear wings/ fenders will come in contact with the body. The body flares outward from the deck down to this line and, from the line, the body flows inward down to the frame. After determining how much wider the body should be at various points, I made styrene pads, varying from 1.5mm to 3mm, and attached them to the body. Using the styrene pieces as guides, I applied layers of Milliput. All through the process of adding additional layers, I was continually altering the contours of the body. It was not a precise or elegant process. Slow progress. I began to test fit the rear wings/ fenders. As described much earlier in the thread, the rear deck of the stock Pocher kit is too narrow and the rear body flares outward from the deck all the way down to the frame. The narrow rounded deck and the slope of the body sides are not only inaccurate in themselves, but when the rear wings are attached, there is an enormous gap between the wings and the body which accentuates the inaccuracy of the model. Correcting all of this is essential. As you can see in the photographs below, I am making some progress. This photograph shows how inaccurate the kit wings/ fenders are and the size of the challenge of building accurate wings. The photographs below show the current state of the body. Its dimensions and contours are close to being finalized, but much surface preparation remains to be done. It is now accurate enough that I can begin the next task, which is to build new doors.
  12. I only use white Superfine Milliput. It forms a very strong bond both with the Pocher plastic and with earlier cured Milliput applications. It is easy to carve and to sand and the surface can be polished to equal polished Pocher plastic. As you can see in the WIP photographs, it is a bit of a challenge to apply in very thin layers, but high points can be easily carved, filed, and sanded. The blue color you see in the photographs is Evercoat two part body putty, which is a good alternative for filling very small/ shallow imperfections.
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