Jump to content


Gold Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by nheather

  1. I have a few AK painting books and although they are nice and inspiring to look at I don’t find them too helpful.  Much of it is made up of pictures end results done by experts with very little in the way of step by step guidance on how to arrive at that end result.


    In general, I found myself inspired by what can be done but barely any the wiser about how to get there.


    They do vary though.  For example, I have two to hand at the moment, #6 Flesh and Skin and #3 Tracks and Wheels from the AK Learning Series.  The Track and Wheels is actually quite good as it has plenty of step by step guides though there is an awful lot of AK product placement, but the Flesh and Skin is mostly gallery pictures and many of those are on large scale bust figures so not that much use to me.





    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. On 10/16/2021 at 9:38 AM, Ade H said:

    @nheather Hi Nigel. I have a handle with both features added to my HP-CS. It's the Iwata preset cut away handle, number IWS1556, about £37. But if I had to pick one feature, it's the travel preset, hands down, no contest, 100%! Even though it's great for the problem discussed here, the even bigger value to me is not flooding metal paints any more...


    EDIT: Found a link in case it helps anyone. https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Iwata-Preset-Cut-OutHandle-IWS-1556.html



    I bought one, it arrived today, fits nicely and looks lovely.


    I don't regret the purchase one bit but unless I'm missing something, one thing perplexes me.


    You can't have preset and cut-away at the same time - is that correct?  Seems obvious now I think about it, but if you have used the preset to limit the trigger travel then the cut away can't be used to flush the airbrush because it can only be pulled back as far as the preset.


    So to use the cut-away you have to retract the preset completely out - is that correct?


    BTW - I notice that Iwata are doing a special edition of the Eclipse - has side feed, the cut-away preset handle and the crown cap - Iwata Takumi Eclipse - quite expensive though.







    • Thanks 1
  3. 44 minutes ago, Ade H said:

    @nheather Hi Nigel. I have a handle with both features added to my HP-CS. It's the Iwata preset cut away handle, number IWS1556, about £37. But if I had to pick one feature, it's the travel preset, hands down, no contest, 100%! Even though it's great for the problem discussed here, the even bigger value to me is not flooding metal paints any more...


    EDIT: Found a link in case it helps anyone. https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Iwata-Preset-Cut-OutHandle-IWS-1556.html


    Big thank you, didn’t know that existed, is it a recent introduction.  Definitely getting one for Christmas.





    • Like 1
  4. Out of interest which is more useful on the CS - the cut-out to pull back the needle for flushing or the preset - on the CS you can have either (at a cost) but you can’t have both.


    There was (is) the triple action handle but most of what I read seemed to find fault with it in one way or another.





  5. 1 hour ago, Andy Moore said:

    Seems like Revell have used their 'model' team rather than their 'toy' team for the Crest, and it looks very nice as a result. The surface detailing looks excellent, as does the interior. The only minor quarm I have from looking at the test shots is the thickness of the lips used to seat the glazing. They may need thinning down a little to make the cockpit area look better, but otherwise the kit looks great.

    I can't really see the Round 2 release being significantly better that this, although I expect it will be significantly more expensive.



    What do you mean by Round 2 release - not a term I have heard before.





  6. 2 hours ago, bootneck said:

    My understanding is that the wash and cure setup is only useful for the standard, toxic, resins and is no use for the plant based ECO resins.  I used the plant based resins on my vehicles and radar in the photos I showed, then just give them a swirl in warm soapy water.   A rinse in warm clean water then blast with swmbo's hair dryer and they are ready for curing in sunlight.  Don't think I can achieve anything cheaper than that, plus that method doesn't take up any room.


    That does sound good.  Must admit that I was aware of plant-based resins but had dismissed them as I assumed that they would be a compromise - cleaner but not as good.


    Have you tried both standard and plant-based resins - if so do you find them the same - same precision/accuracy, same strength etc.


    Many thanks,



  7. 12 hours ago, Andy Moore said:


    The contour lines come mainly from the layer hight on the Z axis, and as such aren't really connected to the screen resolution. All the Mars printers, and I imagine most other resin printers can go down to a 0.01mm layer hight which would smooth out the contouring by creating more, but lower steps. The downside is that you'd get really long print times.


    In practice, the contouring only really shows up in close-up photos. To the naked eye the prints look fine. The bust in the photo below was printed on my Mars Pro, which only has a 2k screen, and was printed with 0.05 layer hight, and the contouring is only just discernible in the zoomed-in section.




    I've not tried the Mars 3 or any other 4k printer, but I doubt the extra X,Y resolution would dramatically increase the detail on the print. The Anycubic DLP should presumably give slightly crisper details, but we'll have to wait and see.



    Many thanks for this, it goes some way to confirm my thoughts.


    New 4k, 8k and DLP printers are very enticing but they are more expensive to buy unless you are lucky enough to catch an early bird.  And I wonder about maintenance - I’ve read that inevitably LCD screens have to be replaced from time to time, and would a 4k or 8k screen be more expensive than a 2k screen.


    What got me thinking about this is the AnyCubic Ultra DLP which on paper has a poor resolution, just 80u but the prints that are being showcased look stunning - but bear in mind that the only videos and reviews to date are coming from AnyCubic and their supporters.


    Where I do think higher resolutions are put to best use is for bigger build plates - in fact we saw the reverse in the AnyCubic ultra, which with a 720P array has to reduce the build plate to little more than a credit card just to achieve a 80u XY resolution.  I don’t need a big build plate for my needs but even so the Ultra is probably too small.


    With the Phrozen you need to add delivery, taxes and admin charges so they are more expensive than they first appear.


    So I am still looking at the Mars 3 (still kicking myself that I missed the pre-order) but the reason I started this is that I wonder whether I would be better off with a Mars 2 plus a wash and cure for the same price.





  8. Think I’m going to hold off.  I missed the Mars 3 pre-order.  I tried for the AnyCubic ultra but fell victim to the kickstarter crash.  Then their is the Phrozen 8k, interesting, looks like a good price but then you need to add postage, VAT and admin fees.


    I’d like to see what the DLP technology is like - see some real world reviews.


    I’m not convinced that xy resolution matters, sure in some cases, but generally not.  We shall see because the AnyCubic Ultra is 80u which on paper makes it a low resolution printer but the technology is meant to offset that.  The real issue with the ultra is the tiny build plate.


    With the technology advancing fast with a new ‘leap’ every year I’m not convinced that paying premium for the latest is the best way to go.





  9. 6 hours ago, ICMF said:

    You're confusing pixel size - X/Y resolution - with layer height - Z resolution.  The two variables are entirely divorced from each other.  Higher X/Y resolution doesn't need any more or less time, it just prints bigger pixels.  Thinner layer heights (higher Z resolution) DOES effectively take longer, because you need to print more layers*.  X/Y resolution is fixed on a printer - whatever screen you have, that's your resolution, and you can not change it.  Layer height IS user configurable depending on the print, but this is the same on every mSLA printer - they'll all print pretty much the same range of usable layer heights no matter what the X/Y resolution is.  There's a small caveat that a smaller pixel size might have a thinner ideal theoretical layer height, but in practice, it's not going to make much difference to the way users actually print with them.




    FWIW, actual exposure times will be lower, because you're not exposing as much resin at a time, but it'll be net slower because you've got to raise/lower the print bed more times, which takes most of the actual print time anyway.

    I’m not really confusing them, I understand the difference, but I appreciate where you are coming from.


    But my question remains, at mini size, XY resolution is typically ranges from 80u, 50u, 35u and 22u depending on the pixel resolution of the LCD (for the same size build plate).


    I understand that the whole layer is printed at once do takes the same time regardless of the number of pixels printed.


    I agree that the level height is independent but I was saying is that if you do want to reduce it to match the XY size (so you are printing cubes not oblongs) then the print will take longer.


    The point of my question is 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k (80u, 50u, 35u, 22u), realistically, at what point does the human eye stop being able to tell the difference.


    If you printed at the same layer height can the human eye discern the difference between the prints from 2k and 4k budget printers.


    To me it makes sense to bring out higher resolution screens to accommodate bigger build plates, but not so convinced with this trend to squeeze more and more pixels into similar sized mini plates, but interested to hear what others think.





    • Like 1
  10. First we had the big breakthrough of 2k mono screens, then there were 4k and now we are looking at 8k.


    I understand that build plate size is a factor - if you want a bigger plate then you need more pixels to achieve the same resolution.


    What I’m interested in is the trade off between resolution, print speed and cost.


    So in the Mini size sector we are looking at resolutions of


    For 2k - 50u

    For 4k - 35u

    For 8k - 22u


    The lower the number the better it sounds but - more layers so longer print time and I’m guessing the cost of replacement screens will be higher (8k > 4k > 2k).


    What I would like to know is what difference can you see with the eye - not the magnifying glass, not a microscope.


    I recently read a review of the Mars 3 (4k) and that concluded that it was hard to see a difference between 50u and 35u so given the 35u prints took significantly longer the recommendation was to print at 50u.


    My primary interest would be printing wargaming figures (AFVs mostly) in scales ranging between 10mm and 28mm.


    Just wondering whether to go for the new 4k and 8k models or whether a cheap 2k would be more than good enough.





  11. From Mike Starmer’s MAFVA site.





    Until 1943 vehicles appear to conform to UK standards.  Colour images exist of Morris Quads at Singapore in Khaki Green No.3 and Dark Tarmac.  Early 1943 S.C.C.13 “Jungle Green” introduced for use as single overall colour.  But 1944 S.C.C. 16 Very Dark Drab (a.k.a. SEASCC.207) may be coming into use.    By 1944 there was a range of colours for camouflage purposes issued by SEAC in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) but there is no evidence that any of these were intended as disruptive colours. Single overall basic colour remained from 1943 -45.


    So, it seems, the answer will depend on the period you are trying to depict.  Sounds like SCC 13 or SCC 16 from 1943 onwards, both sound a little darker than olive drab.





  12. On 10/8/2021 at 5:11 PM, ICMF said:

    Phrozen is entirely based out of Asia.

    Thanks for confirming that, this was my suspicion too.


    I’ve registered interest as the $349 price as the super early bird sounds very attractive.


    But unlike Elegoo and AnyCubic I guess I need to factor in




    Courier Admin Fee


    which will add another $100 or so.


    And I suspect getting that Super Early Bird price is unlikely any way.







  13. On 10/4/2021 at 1:27 AM, spruecutter96 said:

    The ending seemed to just fizzle out to me, but I couldn't see it concluding in any other fashion, having said that. 



    Agree, the last episode was barely needed, could easily have wound up everything in the previous episode.  I felt the last episode was left with a lot of time on its hands wondering what to do.





  14. 7 hours ago, Alvaro Rodriguez said:

    But after the Mars3 and the Photon Mono 4K, things are still hot in the small factor LCD field.


    Now Phrozen comes with a new Sonic Mini... 8K, with 0.022mm pixel resolution.




    It´s a 7" LCD and, from the promo pic, we can also see a double lineal rail and a robust buildplate carriage unlike the weak one in the SM4K.


    To be released mid october via the usual trend of preorders, early birds and the like.





    Looks interesting - do you know if Phrozen do UK-friendly shipping like AnyCubic and Elegoo do for their launches - they have warehouses in the UK.





  15. 20 minutes ago, Black Knight said:

    1. as far as I can see the fuselage inserts for the 'bubble-top' are within the frame with the later type tail pieces and rocket rails.

    Airfix left that frame out in the Car-Door version.

    afaik the Car-door inserts are on an extra frame, with the canopy



    2. A replacement clear resin tear-drop/bubble canopy is available as there were quality problems with the original kit ones


    Note, as of 15th Sept, AlleyCat have closed their shop.  It states that new sales will be transferred to modelsforsale.com but not seen any evidence of that yet - it will probably take some time to take over the business.







    • Thanks 1
  16. 9 hours ago, Alvaro Rodriguez said:

    And yet another contender in the small factor 4K arena. Anycubic Photon Mono 4K.


    6.23" 4K LCD with 0.035mm resolution on par with the Sonic Mini 4K and Mars 3. Already out... but for their home market -China- for now. It is supposed it should be available for the rest of us fall this year.


    The external appareance is a 2K Mono but there are some nice improvements here and there besides the 4K LCD. A much welcomed protective clear sheet for the LCD, adjustable UV power and a laser engraved buildplate (BTW, they are also delivering laser engraved build plates with their Mono X and with the incoming Ultra). 










    Thanks for the heads up, I’ll keep an eye out for that.  Let’s hope they release it under a pre-order scheme rather than repeat the Kickstarter shambles that they did for the Ultra.


    I do wonder if and when this will hit our shores though.  They have a huge number of orders for the Ultra to deal with first - and then it begs the question of having so many printers addressing the same form-factor space - the mono, the 2k, the 4k and the ultra - they will need to rationalise that I think.


    I’m also interested in seeing how budget DLP pans out - I tried to order an Ultra but fell victim to Kickstarter so cancelled my pledge.  But in the cold light of day I’m glad I cancelled as I want to see how the budget DLP really performs.  It is lower resolution 80u compared with 50u for 2k and 35u for 4k for similar sized build plates.  But DLP is claimed to be sharper so offsets that difference.  There is also some 4x processing logic which is claimed to improve the resolution.  Also, even with a resolution of 80u the build plate for the ultra is significantly smaller than the those of the LCD minis, maybe too small.  I note that all of the marketing has focussed on fantasy miniatures, I wonder if that nod to the small build plate.  I would be looking to do wargaming miniatures so I didn’t think the size would be an issue at first but doing some calculations I realise that it might struggle with 28mm scale vehicles.





  17. 41 minutes ago, TommyTomTom said:

    Thanks very much. I’ll have a look at the website properly after work. I’m in the south west, about an hour from Bristol.

    Too far I’m afraid - I’m in West Sussex.





  18. 9 hours ago, TommyTomTom said:

    The saga continues. Iwata suggested I apply beeswax to the base of the nozzle and threads around the nozzle cap, didn’t help. I’ve also checked the nozzle, needle, nozzle cap under magnification and I can’t see anything that would cause concern. At this point I’m considering a warranty claim through Iwata, from a glimpse at their website I believe I’d have to send it to the US? Do Iwata have any UK based repair/service centres that can deal with warranty claims?



    The Airbrush Company Ltd
    79 Marlborough Road (East)
    Lancing Business Park

    West Sussex

    BN15 8UF
    Tel: 01903 767 800
    email: sales@airbrushes.com




    Where are you in the UK?  I have a CS with some spare parts - if local we could try swapping out bits to eliminate components and narrow down where the fault lies.







  19. Visited the Crawley store today.  Had to scrabble around on the floor to find the last remaining Haynes manuals in one of the floor stands rather than the shelves.  Picked up the Wellington and Spitfire restoration books for £3.50 each and the Westland Wessex for £1.50.





  • Create New...