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gregax last won the day on October 7 2015

gregax had the most liked content!

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About gregax

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia

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  1. gregax


    On the left is IPA alcohol... Note the change in tone of the same color - and it will end up in different (wrong) shades when it dries. I didn't take the photos of the dried paint, but the ones mixed with Mr.Color thinners were glossy and goey when pulled with a toothpick. Imagine sanding/coorecting them when on your model. The others dried matt and they could be sanded. Don't get me wrong, if You are satisfied with using them, just go for it. They might work for someone, but not me. Even when sprayed, they dry into full flat surface, which I don't prefer. I know that Levelling thinner is a magic product, but not in this case. I use it to dillute all the paints with them, but they just don't do the magic here. I'll stick to Mr.Color, Gunze H, Tamiya and MRP. @ Tony- When You dillute the paint that much, it will loose its ability to adhere. Did you try to mask it and unmask it?
  2. gregax


    Well - I've tried to dillute them with all the thinners i have at home. With Levelling thinner or Mr.color thinner - paint didn't dissolve, after some mixing it turned out to goey mess no matter how much thinner i've put in. Alcohol IPA - it does break up the paint, but pigments in paint just separate Tamiya acrylic thinner - does the job fine Hataka thinner - it is not drying fast enough for my taste Nitro - same as Levelling thinner Distilled water - works fine, but it dries for ages. What really bothers me is the fact that they dry dead flat. And they are hard to sand. Not to mention that the airbrush is really hard to clean when you are done. They do perform well with brushes. But i might have bad luck and get the old batch of paints. Final conclusion - they are really close to Autoair or Wicked paint that i use for helmet painting.
  3. gregax


    I've tried them yesterday on my test model... and ,that sorcery with levelling thinner doesn't work. I've read somewhere that the have changed the formula, but still. I will stick to Gunze, Mr.Color, MRP and Tamiya for spray work....
  4. I tried this and it works like a charm. Blue microset could work. You need something that acts as a glue.
  5. Hi guys, just made a quick tutorial on how using HGW wet transfers. What are wet transfers? Well, imagine a normal decal but with carrier film placed on top of graphic instead of graphic printed on carrier film. I hope someone will find this tutorial useful. 1. First remove the protective foil from transfers 2. Cut out the chosen transfer with scalpel. 3. Prepair the surface with Gunze Mr. Mark Setter (don't use anything else - this acts as a glue so the transfer sticks to the surface at the end) 4. Soak the transver in a warm water for 15-20 seconds 5. Slide the transfer onto the surface you have previously prepaired with Mr. Mark Setter. Place it to the desired position. 6. Remove the excess setter and water with a brush, cotton swab or paper tissue. REALLY REALLY IMPORTANT!!! LEAVE THE TRANSFER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST 6 HOURS. BETTER STILL, LEAVE TO DRY OVERNIGHT 7. Then carefully peel off the carrier foil. 8. And clean the surface with damp cloth or cotton swab. 9. End result is simply stunning. As you can see, the roundel is the classic decal and You can notice a carrier film. Transfers however, are perfect.
  6. About time.... that Brassin engine is a model in itself....
  7. Decals are done, as well as HGW wet transfers which I strongly recommend. Some minor chipping is already applied.
  8. Not really, they won't be visible once its painted and weathered...
  9. Started with painting the interior....
  10. Cracking on with aftermarket.... Flaps are ready for painting, installed... I also did some extra work on the brassin engine...
  11. Hello, Thought I'd start building something a bit more relaxing after the Flanker, so at the Moson show in Hungary I've bought this beautiful eduard's kit - with all the extras. I am planning to build it as opened as possible - engine, cockpit, radio, gunbays, misc. panels and so on. So, starting with the cutting, cleaning and thinning all the resin bits and pieces and dryfitting them over and over again. So, this is my Moson show loot, most of the parts here are for Spit. Too much of them really... So, brassin radio compartment with Aires cockpit test fitted... brassin parts just slot into the position, they fit the eduard kit perfectly. And Aires gunbays (just dryfitted, not glued yet) I think I will thin the plastic a bit more...
  12. I am sorry for the lack of updates, but I was really rushing to get this beauty done for this weekend competition in Mosonmagyarovar. I will post some more pics when I return. Base is from NOY miniatures with aerobonus figure and Dream model PE ladder.
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