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Cadman

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Everything posted by Cadman

  1. Probably best just to leave it as is, other than replacing the M5 with a Jeep. Mess around too much with a completed diorama and you just end up busting other stuff already fixed onto the base. Been there/done that - and have the tee-shirt, etc. etc.
  2. Yeah, same here...πŸ˜„...just kidding. I wish I'd done it on a larger base though. As I mentioned earlier, I'm never going to be able to remove the easy-eight and the jeeps without busting them up. Happily the figures are easily removed though. Of course, there's always the option to do the basic idea again with different vehicles on a larger base. Dunno, I'm still chewing things over while working on other stuff.
  3. No problem mate. Just keep plugging away and you'll see improvements starting to come through. Me? I've been struggling trying to decide which camo pattern to use with a 1:35 figure wearing a Dennison smock. The second version issued in 1944 had a light olive base, but I prefer the earlier version with a light tan base, so that's probably the one I'm going for. I'll use the greener camo for an AFV crewmember that's in my stash -- he'll be good for the new Korean War diorama idea I'm presently kicking around. It'll be a while though as the order for the AFV's I want to use in it was only entered yesterday. Got more than enough to be getting on with for the time being anyway.
  4. Honestly, it's not too difficult to obtain reasonable results. I reckon it's the faces that cause a bit of concern for people just starting out on figures. So my advice is keep it simple. Don't try and do the whites of the eyes -- that's a mistake I see so many beginners doing. They're not white in any case and in scales from 1:35 up to 1:30 you don't really see them anyway. At least, not from normal viewing distances. As you move up to 75mm (1:24) the whites of the eyes do become visible, but I use a very light flesh or ivory colour for them -- never pure white. Don't initially try to emulate examples by professional master figure painters. That's just a recipe for frustration. These guys and ladies have been painting for years, and most of the Russian painters based in St. Petersburg have attended advanced painting courses, which certainly gives them the edge. Instead, use their work as inspiration. Here's some 75mm (1:24 scale) examples I have in my collection that I commissioned from St. Petersburg; Amazing, aren't they. But after studying them and being inspired by the stellar level of painting, I managed to come up with this 90mm (1:20 scale) beauty from Alexandros Models. I simply copied the box art as best I could and the result was that I believe she's definitely the top figure I've come up with to date. For 1:35 up to 1:30 scale, just do the basic skin-tone on the face; then dot in the iris with a tiny spot of brown. Do the eyebrows, highlight the cheekbones and forehead, do the shadow under the cheekbones, then add a tiny touch of brown to your basic skin-tone and do the lips; and voila -- Bob's your uncle. More advanced techniques can be tried once more experience is gained and brush control improves. Don't worry if you think the initial efforts aren't great. Firstly, we tend to be our own worst critics. Secondly, no-one ever turned out a masterpiece when they first began painting figures. It takes practice, lots of practice, and there'll certainly be a couple of disasters along the way, but that's all part of the learning curve. Something I do, is take lots of close-up photos during the WIP stage. It helps me spot and rectify the many, oh so many, mistakes I make. Here's a couple of quick snapshots of my workbench right now. These are for the next series of 1:35 scale dioramas I'm intending to build over the coming few weeks and I'm doing them with the guidelines I've provided above. Sure, they won't end up painted to the same level as the other figures in this post -- but they don't need to be. There's far better figure painters than me on this forum, and I'm certain sure they'll be happy to give additional advice if you ask. Hope this helps. EDIT Oops, I didn't realize you had already started painting figures Hairtrigger. The way I read your post, it looked to me like you hadn't started painting as yet. Having seen your other posts in this section of the forum, I now understand the stage you're at, and that you're not a complete beginner. In that case much of the advice I've given here is superfluous. Nevertheless, I'll leave it in place as it might encourage other folk to take up figure painting. Cheers
  5. Yeah, everyone seems to be able to see the full size photos, except me. It's just got to be my ISP connection that's shrinking them down to thumbnails. Oh well, it is what it is. Good news is; I found two more Italeri Ambulance Jeeps in my stash through in our conservatory this afternoon. So it looks like I'm good to go with the half-ways planned upgrades to this diorama. And thanks for the positive comments, Much appreciated.
  6. Now that's an idea, as I do have two of those cutie medics. I'm not touching the "Nurse Karen" in my upgraded "Frozen Chosin" effort, but could always give the one in my "Rage" diorama a temporary transfer to the British sector while I'm still considering what can be done to upgrade that scenario. (She's the better painted of the two anyway). Then again, it would probably make more sense to liberate Lt Mountbatten-Windsor and transfer her to the Brits. ("Make more sense"...LOL...that's a good one)...🀣 Oh, and I've decided it won't be a Winter diorama after all, due to lack of figures in my stash wearing cold-weather clothing. So it's now going to be a much smaller vignette and brought forward a few months to March 1945...Operation Varsity...πŸ˜ƒ The rest of the figures I originally planned to use will likely be converted to Jocks and Aussies -- in Korea. But I need to get my hands on a Centurion Mk3 tank first, although I do have a Churchill Crocodile that could be pressed into service, but no later than 1951 and without the fuel trailer. I do have one of the Ardennes vignettes about 75% finished, but still have to do two or three American figures for it. Unfortunately, I've almost run out of celluclay for building basic groundwork -- but ought to be able to get some form of "pollyfilla" locally that can be used instead. Oh well, keeps me busy and out of trouble with SWMBO...πŸ™„
  7. Okay. I'll just continue to use the "Hotlink for forums" option with Post Image then as you guys are obviously seeing the full size images. Like I said, I have the originals on my PC in any case.
  8. Thanks for providing me with a real trip down memory lane Ratch. I haven't seen those Airfix WW2 Germans for a very long time. I think the sepia wash does a good job on them as it brings out more detail. PS. That's the same Vallejo matte varnish I use. Perhaps not the dullest matte varnish on the market, but once fully cured it does a great job of protecting the paint underneath it. Cheers
  9. Thanks for that Col Andy. I started work on another Winter scene today -- featuring Brits this time. All will be revealed in due course...πŸ˜ƒ
  10. From a painting point of view there's no real difference between metal, resin or plastic figures. I always use a primer no matter the material the figure is made from -- probably just habit. The main difference with metal figures is preparation. You need a set of good quality needle files. a Stanley knife as opposed to the scalpels I use with resin or polystyrene, and a pair of flush-cut side cutters is handy as well. I used to like using superglue gel for assembly, but can't find it locally any more. The normal superglue I can buy from the corner shop is okay, but I often wish I could get my hands on some accelerant -- no luck finding it locally either. Depending on the proportions of metals in the alloy, white metal kits and castings can vary from soft and malleable to hard and brittle. This means that swords and spears can be a problem. Once bent, the chances of getting them 100% straight again is in the hands of the gods. I've used smooth-jawed flat pliers with some success, but it's a lottery. And of course, the more brittle white metal alloys are prone to breakages. To get around this, I normally replace kit swords & spears with steel examples bought from the internet. White metal kits can get expensive as you go up in scale. I stopped buying 90mm (1:20 - 1:18 scale) for that very reason. In fact, I think I've only got 5 x foot and 1 x mounted 90mm figures -- and I'd have a domestic mutiny if I ever dared to try and buy a mounted 90mm white metal kit again. Mind you, the one I have is from Pegaso Models which is one of the more expensive brands. Even my favorite size of 75mm (1:24 scale) are getting pricey, which is a drag, although they're still a bit less than half the price of their 90mm kits. The examples below demonstrate what can be achieved with 75mm white metal kits from Pegaso Models. Mongolian Horseman Roaming Knight #1 Vlad Dracul II #1 Roaming Knight #1 & Vlad Dracul II #1 Vlad Dracul II #2 (exact same kit as Vlad Dracul II #1, just painted differently) Roaming Knight #2 (exact same kit as Roaming Knight #1, just painted differently) Hope this helps.
  11. Thanks for trying to help out Mike. I'm copying and pasting the "Hotlink for Forums" option, so I don't understand where that Thumbnailed script is coming from? Leave it with me and I'll see if I can figure it out later tonight. Thanks Again
  12. Nope -- I'm still just seeing thumbnails. So I'm now almost convinced it's my ISP connection that's doing it. Oh well, only other option I can think of is to try a different photo hosting service. Anyone got any suggestions which one to try? I can't use imgur or google -- the country I'm in blocks these. This was a try at using the direct link from Post Image. I'm still just seeing the thumbnail. Obviously I can see the original photos in my folders on the PC screen, but I'd have liked to see what I'm posting on the forum. Oh well, no point in stressing over it as long as other members can see the full size images.
  13. Haven't changed anything as yet on this old diorama which was finished way back in Feb-2017. Well, apart from removing the Lady Doc in the white coat and using her in my updated Korean War Frozen Chosin diorama. This post is more by way of an experiment as I've resized the width of the original photos down to 1024 and checked the heights are all less than 800. I want to see if the full size images appear on my PC. If not, then at least that'll prove it's not the forum software that makes them appear as thumbnails on my screen. I've also removed the Stuart tank and have been hunting through my stash for a second ambulance jeep. I'm convinced I have a 2nd one, but if I can't find it then I've got something else I can fall back on to use in the space that removing the tank has freed up. (It really didn't "belong" in this scene anyway). Original Photos - Resized Cheers
  14. There's a great old movie that covers the USMC during the Inchon landings and the retreat from the Chosin Reservoir. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045082/ Sure, it was released in 1952 and it is of it's time, but does give a good overview of the US Marines contribution to the Korean War. Even features some Brits -- which was highly unusual for such a movie. I think it's available on both DVD and BR.
  15. No, it's not a metal kit. It's a metal casting...which means the challenges are slightly different compared to assembling and painting a metal kit...😁
  16. I'm still just bouncing ideas around, but yeah, I do prefer doing scenes that are, relatively-speaking, less commonly done.
  17. This is an ancient 54mm Phoenix casting that dates back to at least the early-1970's. An oldie, but goodie. Figure painted and base knocked together, 02 to 07 Dec-2022. Axe, sword, shield, treasure chest and raven are all from my spares box. The ruined scenic is a resin piece from Reality in Scale.
  18. Cheers Ratch. Always good to see you commenting on my stuff.
  19. Well, nothing has changed to be honest. After all, I did the Hurtgen and the Chosin dioramas a little over five years ago. As I mentioned in my Road to Messina thread, it was done with a "Kelly's Heroes" vibe for my own amusement over November/December 2022; and I only posted it after editing down the original text I had dreamed up. The idea occurred after I bought that magnificent Marilyn Munroe resin kit figure, (the sculpt itself is breath-taking), but doing a Korean setting in this case would've been too obvious. Besides, I've always wanted to come up with something depicting the Sicily invasion. I'd like to revisit the Hurtgen Forest diorama again and expand it on a larger base, but run the very-high risk of damaging the Easy-Eight and the Jeeps as they're fixed solidly into the landscape. I'll find some way of doing it though. Come to think of it, the easiest option would be to replace the M5A1 Stuart tank with another Jeep as that would free up enough space to add some more figures -- and move Pistol-Packing Princess Elizabeth into a more prominent location on the diorama base...😊 I do have a few somewhat more conventional scale model dioramas planned for this year; Three 1:35 scenes set in the Ardennes 1944/1945. Two American and one British. Might do the Brit one for the Rhine crossing instead, haven't made up my mind yet. Another Korean War scenario, with Brits and/or Aussies this time. This'll be in addition to my more usual fantasy stuff with 54mm/75mm white metal kits -- although these have been difficult to import these past couple of years, for obvious reasons. Cheers
  20. Check the second paragraph in my original post...πŸ™‚
  21. This was a little scene I put together real quick while waiting for paint & glue to dry out properly on other stuff I was working on. With this one, we're at Steven Pressfield's "Gates of Fire" 480BC. https://www.amazon.com/Gates-Fire-Novel-Battle-Thermopylae/dp/0553580531 King Leonidas has sent out Greek Allies to patrol and defend a not-so-secret path through the mountains that he's aware could allow the Persian invaders to outflank his 300 Spartans. Figures are nominal 54mm and include three white metal kits from Seil, Romeo and "Can't Remember to be Honest", plus two miniatures from Aeroart and two from First Legion. Didn't spot that the spear of the "Can't Remember" kit figure is ever so slightly bent until after I shot the final photos...oops...πŸ€”...🀫 The scenic is an extensively modified and repainted aquarium accessory which was then tarted up with some sand & rocks, a bit of static grass, and a couple of trees. Once the first of the static grass was applied, I then blended the figure bases into the groundwork. With everything in place I could then shoot the finished photos. A simple enough wee story, but quite effective I think. Cheers
  22. This one took around six weeks to put together. The updated Frozen Chosin only took a week or so, as all I did was paint some figures and find space for them on the diorama base. Being retired does have its compensations...πŸ˜ƒ
  23. I believe that a diorama should tell a story, although mine are usually so busy that I do tend to add some text just to help things along. Cheers
  24. While I'm at it, 1:35 is really not my preferred scale for painting figures. I much prefer 1:24 (75mm). Having said that, sometimes it all just seems to come together. This is my personal favourite 1:35 figure that I've ever done...although it helps that she's such a wee beauty...☺️
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