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Rob G

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Posts posted by Rob G

  1. 7 hours ago, Casey said:

    To quote: I ate'nt dead

     

    I am working on something and hopefully at some point this year you wont need to have spreadsheets but will be able to use tool like this:

     

    ... to mix paints to match colors from known targets:

     

    ... even including the elusive ones (if paint set pigment allows, that is)

     

    ... or using much cheaper artist paints:

     

    ... or just to replicate paints between vendors

     

     

    Thank you, Granny. ;)

    • Love 1
  2. On 2/24/2025 at 1:17 AM, Morantbay said:

    Maybe we need a group build for "anything on the shelf more than 3 years". Might be the motivation many of us (me) are in desperate need of.

     

    We do. Towards the end of every year and over into the new, there's the KUTA (Kick Up the Donkey) GB, which is specifically for finishing the shelf queens, how ever long they've been there. Anyone is welcome to join in. Have a look in the Group Builds section of the forum for the latest iteration.

  3. What's your usual paint?

     

    I undercoat brass parts ( and everything else, usually) with rattle can Tamiya Primer in whatever grey or white is to hand, then paint over the top of it.

     

    Guns are tricky - there are various 'gunmetal' flavoured paints available, I've never been convinced by any of the ones that I've tried, but I haven't tried them all. My usual approach is a good coat of matt black, then rub the side of a 2B pencil over the raised parts, then buff carefully with a soft cloth. You could use a matt very dark blue instead, if you want something different.

     

    There are also chemical blackening solutions that can be bought or made with relative ease; I've tried a couple of the commercial ones and haven't been all that impressed, but that might just be me.

     

    No doubt others will have other ideas.

  4. 2 hours ago, Neddy said:

    the first (and I think only) rear-engined car produced in the US

     

    There were many experiments, production cars were few -  the late 1940s Tucker 48, (another flat 6, interestingly), and the early 1930s Stout Scarab are about all that come to mind, if 50 and 9, respectively, can be considered "production".

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, dov said:

    Did not know about this museum! Amazing!

     

    I was there in April last year. If you're a rotorhead, it's a must see. Crammed full of the interesting, weird and wonderful. Free parking, too.

     

    If you're going to spend time in Weston, be prepared for extortionate parking fees (as found in most places in the UK. Absolutely criminal.)

    • Like 1
  6. 2 hours ago, Jan Skalka said:

     

    file.php?id=1925576

    I didn’t like the idea of constant velocity joints on the driveshafts all being at the same axial angle, so I set them in motion.

     

    Nice work, it's a change to see a relatively modern AFV in amongst the hordes of Tigers and Shermans.

     

    As an FYI, those shafts have universal joints in them, not CV joints. And (observation, not criticism), typically for Trumpeter, they look pretty bad - given the time and effort that you've put into all the other little details, I'm surprised that you stuck with the kit versions.

     

    It will be good to see colour on this one.

  7. I was schooled in Australia in the 70s/early 80s, and we learned 12 times tables - Aussie went decimal in 66, not quite a year before I was born (in Olde Englande, if it matters - I never learned £sd).

  8. I'd love to see inside the fuselage, I'm curious as to how much plastic the original owner had to remove to get the etched cockpit parts to fit - my kit has has had nearly 2mm removed from the inside of each half, and it's still tight in there.

     

    I'll follow along, it may give me a spur to continue with mine.

  9. Ditzler DAL-11068 is the original colour number (a laquer paint). Online chips, viewed on my calibrated monitor, look to be about what I'd expect of an early 1950s car colour - a slightly muddy mid blue. 

     

    You can't trust other people's models, or photographs. 

     

    I can't find an instruction sheet online, what paint do Moebius recommend?

     

    I don't know if you've found this, but it may help

     

    https://www.hudsonjet.hetclub.org/hudsonjetpaint.html

     

    Also, if you're chasing authenticity, don't make the gloss level too high. A shine is OK, a wet look is wrong (and horrible to look at).

    • Agree 2
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