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sroubos

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Posts posted by sroubos

  1. I had to choose to fork out for the Croco Model T-9 or this one and ended up going for the former. I'll keep this one my wish list for now. I like the look of this thing; quite a butch aircraft actually. A shame Fokker didn't sell any because the Americans gave away the similar Beechcraft Navigators for almost free to the Dutch Airforce. Hard to compete with that.

  2. 2 hours ago, spruecutter96 said:

    Looks like I might have stirred up a small hornet's nest, here....

     

    Chris. 

     

    To be honest, if you post things like this...

     

    A responder to the original post stated that the last new kit that Revell actually instigated was the 1/32nd Me-262 a few years ago. He also stated that everything else "new" recently marketed by Revell has been re-pops of other makers' mouldings. 

     

    ...expect some pushback. It's balony.

     

    https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=revell*&fkAVAILABILITY[]="1"&fkTYPENAME[]="Full kits"&fkORIGIN[]="1"&fkYEAR[]="2019"&fkYEAR[]="2018"&fkYEAR[]="2020"&fkYEAR[]="2017"

     

     

    • Like 2
  3. On the newer planes the majority of the RAM panels are now the same shade as the rest of the fuselage. There is still plenty of masking left to do do but not nearly as bad as on the first planes that came of the production line.

     

    Old:

     

    1200px-F-35A_flight_%28cropped%29.jpg

     

    New:

     

    f35-f009-31102019-mdv-col.JPG

  4. Perfect as in perfectly scaled down? That's impossible due to the limitations of moulding techniques, because physics. You cannot scale down every element of a real aircraft down by a factor 144, 72, 48 or even 32 or 24. Many details will be way beyond what is possible in media such as plastic, wood or resin. So there's that.

     

    Perfect as in perfectly capturing the essence? Not so impossible maybe but highly subjective. See all the discussions on this forum vis a vis panel lines, rivets, paint demarcations, color representation, weathering etc. etc. etc.

    • Like 2
  5. 6 minutes ago, fishplanebeer said:

    That's quite interesting as I was looking at an Academy AT6 for sale on E-Bay where the seller is showing the sprues and on his/hers the engine and cowling are definitely as one.

     

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Academy-1662-Testor-663-TEXAN-kits-1-72-NO-DECALS-2-kits/164679599983?hash=item2657ab476f:g:~DgAAOSw9RRgF9Ko

     

    This has the Academy boxing but is also has 'Testors' instructions (?) so perhaps the seller has cross matched and combined two different kits?

     

    Just found another also for sale on E-Bay and it shows the engine and cowling as separate pieces so I stand corrected on this and as a result my interest in the forthcoming SH 'Harvard is now renewed.

     

    Apologies for my earlier erroneous comments on the Academy kit.

     

    Regards

    Colin.

     

    Description states '2 KITS IN ONE BOX' :)

    • Thanks 1
  6. Third build of the year - trying to maintain an average of one per month, so far so good :)

     

    51032376466_224a15f7b9_b.jpg

     

    This is a kit from the 60s I believe, so lots of rivets and other raised detail. I was looking for a quick build as part of my project to build all planes from one of my favorite games, Hellcats over the Pacific. About halfway through now.

     

    51031645713_95d70f5a16_b.jpg

     

    Even though it is an older kit it is still typical Hasegawa: Sparse interior detail, excellent fit. I didn't use much filler. Masking the windows drove me almost crazy, I tried using Eduard's G4M2 masking set but it doesn't fit this kit. Took me two days to do the masking and a good two hours to remove it all.

     

    51031645678_7f707fe835_b.jpg

     

    Reasonably happy with the weathering. Might be overdone a bit but it helps to mask the lost raised detail on the spine and bottom of the fuselage and other areas where you just can't get around obliterating it when dealing with the seams. Also, it adds character. I used Tamiya primer, Humbrol Polished Aluminium, black preshading, then Tamiya IJN Grey and Green. Then weathered the lot with a sharpened match and some 1500 grit.

     

    51032477642_1481bc08ea_b.jpg

     

    I wanted to build a Guadalcanal-related plane, as per the game's setting. Decals came from DP Casper's set Forgotten Operations: I-gó Sakusen. I love these campaign-based sets. Now I need to start incorporating the whole Hellcats collection into a diorama... thinking of playing the game and making some screenshots, then creating a backdrop out of that.

     

    51032477677_96abe20049_b.jpg

     

    It also struck me how big the Betty is: Here next to a B-25 I'm building with my son. Much bigger aircraft.

     

    51032541712_ea323374dd_b.jpg

    • Like 14
  7. I'm not a ship modeller but I do have a few kits lying around in various unfinished states. I usually end up quitting them when it gets to the painting stage. Particularly the 90 degree angles between the decks and superstructure puzzle me, how do you get these demarcations so sharp?

  8. It's a good thing to get this as Revell's F-16B is very hard to get a hold off. As with their F-16C you may expect this D-version to contain parts for the B-version as well. I'm not up to speed with which specific blocks you can make out of the C version boxing though and of course we'll have to see what's in this box.

    • Like 3
  9. I agree the Hasegawa, Esci and Revell tools are definitely the way to go, either of those will be a good basis. The Airfix and Matchbox kits still look like a 104 though.

     

    Special negative mention for the Academy kit, that thing is an abomination. It's simply the worst kit I've ever seen, just terrible to behold. Not a single aspect of it looks like a 104.

    • Thanks 1
  10. Sorry to bring this old thread up again but it appears if you we want to model a P version we are still stuck with the old Hasegawa kit or the Condor kit? I was reading about the new ICM kits and they look great but it was also stated it is highly doubtful a P will ever be released - which seems very strange to me but I'm not very familiar with the marketability of Russian aircraft models. 

  11. My spool only says 'fine' so I'm not sure what thickness that equates to.

     

    8 hours ago, fishplanebeer said:

    I'm sure your example will far out do my own but I've found it an enjoyable and accurate kit to build, the only add-ons being Quick Boost pitot tube and aileron balances as the former broke off and disappeared and the latter were not included in the kit. I've also added a larger 'G' supercharger intake and dust filter, also Quick Boost, as I'm trying to show it as an F4/Trop. Not sure if this is correct but hopefully in this scale it should look OK?

     

    I'm building it out of the box, only addition will be to replace the pitot with some Albion Alloys tubing. I started out well I though with the winter camo but the paint I used (MIG acrylic white) isn't very sturdy and during decaling it got smudged a bit; I'm hoping to make that part of the weathering ;)

     

    It is a great little kit, at the time certainly the best and most affordable F you could get as the FineMolds kit is hard to get and quite expensive. Nowadays you have the AZ kit as an alternative but I haven't built that. I did scribe some extra panel lines into the top wing as it appears these have been forgotten.

  12. Coincidentally I'm building the same kit right now :) I messed up by putting all the stencils on, from pictures I now see they were all overpainted :(

     

    Anyway, aerial. I use EZ line filament which can be stretched a bit, really useful stuff. I put a tiny dab of CA glue on one end, put the wire in it, let it dry, then stretch it with just the slightest tension over the other end on which I've also put a dab of CA. Leave to dry, then cut off the excess with a small pair of scissors. The vertical one I do by drilling a hole in the fuselage and attaching a piece of line with CA in the hole. Then measure the length to the main line, and cut it ever so slightly too short. Dab of CA of the main line where the vertical line should meet it, then stretch it just a tiny bit so it reaches the CA and hold for a minute. Key thing is to make the tension in the vertical line absolutely minimal or it will pull the horizontal main line down and form a kink.

    • Thanks 1
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