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About MeneMene

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  1. [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    What sort of wire did you use in the landing gear?
  2. [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    Glad to hear it was a success. The CR42 ship has sailed, unfortunately, the kit engine was meant to be mounted from the cowling structure (from the front), and that cowling was in several pieces. The detail of the kit engine wasn't too bad, so I just went with that plus some extra wiring. Now, what to use a spare A-74 on.....
  3. Hurricane IIc with two cannons removed?

    Thanks. In AK-W, any idea what the dark color under the K is? I'm guessing the rest of it is the standard middle stone/dark earth
  4. I have the 1/48 Hasegawa Hurricane IIc. The kit has two marking options available; one of 94 Sqdn, GO-J, BP389. The kit says that the aircraft should have all four cannons, but I found this picture: I think they mixed up the serial numbers; BP389 is the foreground aircraft, GO-G, and it has two cannons removed. GO-J is in the background, but I can't see the wing or make out the serial. Next option is one with 213 Sqdn, AK-W, HL887 This is the right aircraft at least. Hasegawa says the aircraft should only have two cannons. 1) Am I correct in seeing that AK-W has two cannons removed as well? I think that's the case, but it's hard to see from the photo, and the only other picture is from the back and you can't see anything. 2) In this field modification of removing the outer cannons, what went in its place? Was it just smoothly faired over as if the gun wasn't there? The kit comes with red gun-tape decals to go over those sections, so were they replaced by some Brownings instead? Some flight simulator representations has them smoothly faired over, while the hasegawa instructions have the red gun-tape, maybe suggesting there's supposed to be a machine gun there instead? I can't find any photographs. Any suggestions?
  5. [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    Good job. Any idea on how easy/difficult it will be to mount the engine? I'm working on the Italeri Fiat CR42, and I had a nice vector resin engine I was going to use for it, but set it aside because of the complicated way the kit had engineered the fit of the engine, exhaust, and cowling panels.
  6. "Bar rigging" (is that the right term) 1930's biplanes

    Ok thanks. On that note, I think the Avia rigging isn't quite the same as RAF flat rigging, it looks more like a rod. I still think regular elastic line would be too fine for it, but I can try
  7. "Bar rigging" (is that the right term) 1930's biplanes

    Would the prym wire be appropriate for 1/48 scale? Most of the references for it that I've seen are 1/32 builds I got the tamiya photoetch stuff to work on the Swordfish, but I agree that approach is generally ineffective.
  8. What's the best way to recreate interwar rigging, like the type you see on the Swordfish, where the rigging isn't cables so much as it is metal bars under tension? Tamiya provides a photoetch set for this for it's swordfish, but that's not available for every kit. I'm working on an Avia B.534, and it too has this thick "bar" rigging as opposed to just cables. See this image for reference [/img] Thanks
  9. [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    I'm also seeing 52.8 inches for the R2800 diameter. In the Tamiya P-47D (the only R2800) kit I have, the engine measures 1.01 inches diameter in 1/48 scale. I also have the Vector resin representation. It's unbuilt, so difficult to measure now, but each of the cylinders is 0.28 inches long from the point at which they leave the hub. From what I've seen, all the quickboost R2800's have this problem, and the only difference between them is the mounting backing for different kits. Sorry to set you off on this, the engine looks great so far. I had the same reaction when I was building my Hellcat- I never got to painting/detailing it, but when test fitting I thought it looked awfully tiny for such a big airplane. From the options you've listed, I think the best solution would be to combine the Verlinden fronts into the two banks of cylinders. Barring that, maybe spring for the Vector one? It's not super expensive.
  10. [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    It was a few years ago, I don't remember the exact ratio, but it was severely underscale, could be seen when next to the kit engine without any measuring. Hopefully yours is OK, your work so far has been great.
  11. [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    Just a word of caution, double check that the engine is the right size. I know that some Quickboost R2800s are underscale, found that out when I tried to use their one for the Hellcat.
  12. So I'm working on the Hobby Boss Su-27, and most of the pictures of parked aircraft have the hydraulics turned off. As a result, the leading edge slats, wing flaps, and horizontal stabilizers are drooped down, like in this picture: http://scalemodels.ru/modules/photo/viewcat.php?id=17670&cid=430&min=12&orderby=dateA&show=12 The hydraulic actuator for the stabilizer is contained at the base of the vertical fin, and you can see the scrape/scuff mark from where it slides in and out of the housing. However, it seems that Hobby Boss only planned you to have the stabilizers in a level position; the actuator is molded as part of the vertical stabilizer, so without modification it's not possible to have it in negative deflection/deployed like this. It would require lots of surgery/sculpting/scratchbuilding to represent the sagged stabilizers, some of which is outside of my skill level, and some of which is outside of my level of effort for what was supposed to be a quick, fun build. 1) I do have the option of easily dropping the slats and flaps. Would it be completely unrealistic for the systems to "bleed" at different rates (i.e. stabilizers level and flaps/slats deployed?) Or is it going to be an all-or-nothing sort of thing? 2) How long after shut-down would it take for the control surfaces to sag down? If it's not instantaneous, I might just have these all still up (the rest of the jet, like the cockpit and engines, will be in a shut-down state) Any suggestions? Thanks
  13. 1/48 Hasegawa N1K1-Ja

    Brake lines added to the landing gear Resin exhaust painted and installed Some light exhaust staining Cannon barrels
  14. 1/48 Hasegawa N1K1-Ja

    Masked and painted the hinomarus Salt weathering, sprayed diluted light gray over the salt After removing the salt, the effect was a little too strong, so I went back over it with the IJN green. I also painted on the tail numbers, wing stripes, and added some decals Here is the underside. As suggested above, I went over the control surfaces with XF-14 A brown enamel wash brought out some details Drop tank painted and weathered l
  15. 1/48 Hasegawa N1K1-Ja

    Painted the IJN green with several fading layers, and also masked off various panels to give some variation After the paint had dried, I activated some of the chipping fluid with water and started to flake off some paint along the high-traffic wing roots What do you all think? I'm always afraid to overdo things like this. My plan is to keep it like that, and then add some more fainter/more subtle chipping with a silver colored pencil around the engine and outer wing areas. Again, I don't want to go overboard.