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Everything posted by MeneMene

  1. So I've been wading through what research I can find and the multiple forum and blog posts by Nick Millman/Aviation of Japan, and have been getting progressively more confused. I'm working on a B6N and have been struggling to get the upper green looking right, and am puzzled as to what to use on the underside. I made a color swatch from the paints I had and scanned it: 1) Upper surfaces: D1 vs D2 green; from what I gather, XF-11 is meant to represent D1(the darker of the two), and XF-70 is meant to represent D2. Now, which to use? Some paint manufacturers/online posts
  2. As far as I'm aware, the ring you see in front of the engine in current day Swordfish (which is inaccurately copied onto model kits) is part of the modern fire extinguishing system. The ring should be removed for a WW2 Swordfish.
  3. Thanks, I'll go with yellow then. I saw that specification earlier than only discontinued the stripes in 1943, but lots (most, even) of the photos of wildcats from before that clearly have the yellow tips.
  4. Hello- Does anybody know when the USN tri-color propeller tips were phased out? I'm doing a Midway Wildcat and am trying to work out if I should go with the three-color prop tips or solid yellow. Thanks
  5. Great, looks like I can do it with some very minor modifications, thanks.
  6. I'm working on a Viggen and am looking into maybe putting some missiles on it for a QRA scenario. I can't find any aftermarket Skyflash missiles in 1/48. Would it be accurate to just use an AIM-7E? I know there were internal differences with the guidance and radar seeker, but externally were there any big differences between the Skyflash and the AIM-7E that would be readily apparent in 1/48? Thanks
  7. TIme to work on the engine: It's a resin replacement from Vector, Here are the parts I'll be using. I won't include the exhaust stubs on the back of the cylinders as they won't be visible. After initial painting and assembling, I inserted wires for the ignition harness. Final result: Here it is assembled in the cowling: Here is the kit's Mk VIII gunsight, and the armored glass that also served as the surface for the gunsight reflection: Primed in gloss black, ready to go:
  8. Continuing work, filled in the wingtip lights with a block of clear sprue before sanding and polishing it to shape. I also cut out the recesses for the landing light and gun camera on the wing leading edges, and plan to fill this with a transparent material later. This landing light in the wing was only present on earlier Corsair models and needs to be filled. The problem is maintaining the molded fabric texture. I started by filling it with milliput and mr surfacer I then laid down some tape to form a channel, and then he
  9. The ugly duckling now has paint! I managed to get the Airfix kit put together and rescribed enough for a NMF (hopefully). We will see how she looks when I lay down the aluminum. I already added the silver lacquer to the wings. Major progress on the Eduard build. Decals in place Followed by an oil wash. Per photographs, the propeller didn't have any of the Hamilton-standard logos or stencilling, so I left it black. Some light fuel stains Added small details like the backup gunsight post, bomb racks, antenn
  10. Got the flaps installed. I had an Ultracase resin set, but either because of it or the way I built the wings, the fit was poor. Instead, I opted to use the kit parts for the inner flaps (filling the wing step which only appeared on later aircraft) and build my own covers from plastic sheet, and use the resin flaps for the more complicated outer sections. I still needed to add some shims to lengthen the resin flaps so that they would fit up against the inner parts. I added the covers on the underside from some thin plastic card. Added
  11. Can anyone point me to a good photograph of the landing light (sometimes referred to as the "approach light") on the -1D Corsair wing leading edge? It should be on the left wing just inboard of the guns. The 1/48 Tamiya kit has the incorrect earlier circular landing light on the wing underside that I need to fill and replace with the above. The kit has a small rectangular panel that looks like it's in the right place but I'd like to confirm. On a similar note, where was the gun camera window located? There appears to be another similar rectangular panel I can open up on the right s
  12. After wrapping up the gear bay, I got to work on the wing guns. I got a set of two Master brass P-51D guns for my two Mustang builds, but concluded that those kits did not need them. I took six of the recessed gun mounts from these sets, and after slightly drilling out the openings on the Corsair wind leading edge, glued them in place with thick CA. This lets me use those two sets I got, plus I still have four leftover guns for a future P-51B or something like that. I then mounted the outer wing sections in place. The mechanism Tamiya provides, a
  13. Scribing results are mixed. It's tolerable but could be much better. Considering the area will be natural metal I've set it aside for a bit to figure out what to do. Progress is much better on the Eduard build. Here is the masking for the green noze. The end result I painted the area around the exhaust titanium and added some heat staining evident in some photos. A close up: I originally added some chipping to the black stripes, and then noticed later on a photograph of the real aircraft th
  14. Even more of the landing gear plumbing done. Just need to add the cables to the door actuators like this on the other side and I'll be finished and ready to move on. Either going to do the outer wings/gun areas next, or keep working on landing gear.
  15. Some Mustang progress On the Eduard build I've painted the anti-glare panel and the green nose I also installed the landing gear; they took a little force to get in the locating aids, and I accidentally broke one of them off near where it attaches to the wheel. Some careful alignment and CA glue seemed to lock it back in place, but I'll have to be careful with it. Now for the more troubled of the two builds: I became very frustrated with the way the cooling vent panels were situated and my attempts at filling the holes,
  16. Got the fuselage together without much difficulty As well as the wing center section: The rear of the gear bays had a large gap between the bulkhead and the skin, so I filled the area with milliput and sanded smooth Preliminary detailing of the wheel wells with some wire, more to go but this is a start I also drilled out the opaque formation and recognition lights on the wings and filled them with krystal klear Here are the lights with tamiya clear paints on top
  17. I committed to filling the rivets on the Airfix wings. Here are the wings after several layers of Mr Surfacer followed by sanding and rescribing And under a polished coat of primer: You can still barely see some areas of the rivets depending on the angle of the flight- I think I'll keep it like this to give the hint of something there. I added the anti-vibration strut to the inside of the Airfix air scoop to match the Eduard kit (which comes with a PE part for this purpose) Time to s
  18. Thanks for the reply. From the linked article: How much to believe though? I've found lots of conflicting information. From what I understand, the switch to the black cockpit sides started when Vought started producing the F4U-4, so applies mostly to the Goodyear FG1-D's made after that time. Other things I've found definitively say that the only interior green on the aircraft was found in the cockpit, and other primed surfaces would be yellow zinc chromate, and that the Cowls, like the wheel wells, were painted in "leftover paint". So from this it would seem that Sea Blu
  19. The Eduard wheel bay is close to finished: All major subassemblies together: The Airfix build still needs a bit more work: Now for the big dilemma of the day: The Eduard kit has the puttied over wings. The Airfix features big prominent rivets over the areas that were puttied, and of course has them completely absent on the areas that were not! So now I need to figure out if it's worth it to putty the wings or not. This is going to be a post-war aircraft in the Swedish Air Force around 1950 or so
  20. Some better shots of the interior before closing everything up: Joined together: For the ribbing on the interior of the cowling, I printed an alignment guide and then attached the pieces without too much difficulty. The look of the cowling is now much improved. The size didn't quite line up for me so I built up the edge of the cowling with milliput and tamiya putty to match. There's still a little work to do to smooth everything out but for now it is adequate. Again, I will happily accept any advice on what c
  21. Completed some more work on the cockpit Test-fit looks good, once I apply a matte coat and add some final details I'll close up the fuselage. Next up is the engine cowling. Here are the two Vector resin parts prior to removal from the casting blocks. I will need to saw off the front cowling ring and replace it. For the color of the cowling interior of a F4U-1D, would you recommend yellow zinc chromate, or specular sea blue like the rest of the landing gear bays?
  22. Hello- Here is the next project, I've started it to give a break from the monotony while working on two Mustangs at the same time. I'll be doing a F4U-1D as depicted on the box, flying from Bunker Hill in Feb 1945 on the mainland Japan air strikes. First up is the rear canopy bulkhead. The kit seat just sits on these large plastic box, where the real one was suspended from a framework. So I've started by removing the large mounting block and sanding everything flush. I filled the gaps left by a mix of CA + talc
  23. This week I've been working on further cleaning up the fuselage seams, as well as adding the gunsights and equipment to the cockpit ahead of installing the front canopy section. The Airfix build will feature the K-14 gyroscopic gunsight, and I've obtained a set of three resin sights by Eduard. Here is one installed onto the kit's glareshield. Here it is after some paint, drybrushing, and the addition of the two acetate pieces representing the lenses as well as the photoetch protective cover. From pictures these shields on the Swedish mustangs were slightly
  24. I've been looking at it some more, I don't see any easy way to fix it. If it were the opposite I could make it narrower, no problem, but I don't see how I can safely/cleanly cut out more material from the sides and then make a new door to go on top of it.
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