Totally Mad Olivier

Special dedication for @keefr22 (I loved the smiley whistling...) TMO 😉

Thanks Keith and all! A new update since the steps 19 and 20 are now over (or nearly so, a cable yet to add that will connect the F15 part see below): For the oil catch tank, in the lack of pic of this area, I applied approximately the same recipe than for the water reserve one, using here too a PE part from the SL 24 detail set. The last elements to be added from step 20 have been. Ref. pics used: This one is a superposition of 2 screenshots from a video on You Tube: Cheers, TMO P.S: I just notice that I forgot 2 tiny screw heads to add on the F15 part. It will be done as well as the connection cable asap…

Hello chaps, Here it is, my ignition panel is now assembled in the chassis. These last days, many improvements were brought to my detailing work: custom decals, Jubilee clip, cables, weathering, fuses box etc. I am happy with the result that is quite faithful to the original. Pity, no one (and even the SL 24 team) was able to provide me pics of the oil catch tank. My last hope rests on Jens Torner of the Porsche Heritage und Museum of Stuttgart... Pics now showing the WIP: Cheers, Totally Mad Olivier

Hello chaps, So much to say and show about the ignition panel left side, I will do it through 2 separate posts to avoid excessively weighing this one... As I said at the end of my previous post (edited), thanks to SL 24, who sent me a few months ago the great pics below, I've got all what I need to represent faithfully this area (what is pity not the case for the oil catch tank up to now): Comparison with a dry fit assembly showing some of the necessary detailing job: SL 24 also provided me these great pics: I used the Photoscape X app to resize the sticker: Initially: After correction: To be followed, Cheers, TMO

Hi again chaps, For the oil catch tank (my second goal in this step 19), impossible for me to find any reference pic showing it. Here is below the step 20 that shows where it takes place on the chassis: SL 24 provides approximately the same PE part to wrap this tank. If someone could find and share this element here, it would be great. Where appropriate, my water reservoir tank will be my inspiration... In the meantime, I will first focus on the ignition panel (steps 19 and 20) for which, thanks to SL 24, I've got an amazing pic that I will share in my next post, meaning a detailing job to come on this area... (I just sent them an e-mail about the oil catch tank. If they could provide me a good pic of the latter, it would be definitely great...) Cheers, O

Dear Keith, I called this element water reservoir tank because Tamiya names it like that. I don’t know the function of this tank but I don’t think it is the reservoir for the windshield wipers, the latter being in the front compartment. Me too, pity! Thanks a lot my friend. I didn’t understand the TED talk… Cheers, O

Hello chaps, A new update this Tuesday with again addings and improvements: 1) Adding of Jubilee clips, hose joints and others at the end of all wires and cables on the engine: Several wires and cables supposed to be connected to elements external to the engine itself needed to get Jubilee clips, hose joints or plugs since my engine will be displayed separately: The wire coming from the center of the distributor (R15 from step 12 in Tamiya's instructions) is supposed to go to F15 (step 20). Inspired by the pic below, I created a plug at the end: 2) Replacement of the metering unit mesh: If the idea to use a mesh was good (my post of last May 22 p. 15), I was not very happy with the result and decided to replace it, as well as the metal strip that wraps the metering unit. Several trials were necessary (the round mesh is very delicate to cut) but the final result is much better now: BEFORE: AFTER: This time, promised, my engine is OK and I will focus on the next steps! That said, I was optimistic thinking this build would be over at the latest beginning of August... 3) Water reserve tank in the step 19: I began the step 19 with the water reserve tank, for which a delicate detailing job was done using among others the SL 24 part 25 (a bit too long, you need to cut it). I will detail a bit the job done on this element from the beginning to its assembly under the rear cap B9 (step 20): Cheers, O

Hello chaps, A new update with several addings and improvements: 1) Creation of a stand for my engine: 2) Corrections and adding on the big bent pipe: 3) Improvements on the rear part of the chassis frame and adding of the missing fastener right side: I used all means at my disposal (plastic card, putty, and mainly patience!) to rebuild the frame, the triangular element and the fastener. For the latter, I could find the great close-up below: I still don't know (this will be decided lately) if body and chassis will be displayed separately but if so, this rear part of the chassis will be acceptable... 4) Little addings and corrections on the engine: The repeated manipulations of the engine to try to fit it into the chassis had caused some damage. They all are fixed now. Cheers, Olivier

My dear friends, If I mentioned doubts, it is because considering the amount of work done, I want to be sure I won’t regret my choice. What is sure and on what may I change my mind? Sure: 1) my engine will NOT be installed in the chassis. I agree with @adamg1987 on this point and I thank him because his comment maybe avoided me an error. 2) a diorama largely inspired by the great@kpnuts one will be built Uncertain: I am not yet sure the body will be placed near the chassis (like R.R) or on the latter (like @kpnuts). Like most of you, I would prefer the second option but I want the interior (dashboard, steering wheel, seat, roll cage etc.) to be as visible as possible considering the care brought to all these elements. With my previous cars builds, things were more simple since they were opened Convertible (Chevrolet Bel Air, Ford Mustang, altered 1/8 Citroën 15), not to mention the Fiat 806 GP… The only car build with a roof was the 1/8 Aventador, that is exposed lifted gull-wing. If by leaving doors opened, the interior may be correctly seen, I will certainly choose this solution. @Fnick, I am not sure I understood what you meant. The diorama will not have the same size depending on the chosen option. That’s why I will have to decide BEFORE building the diorama. Anyway, I want to thank all of you for your contributions and I am sure the decision will be the good one since it will have been carefully thought out! Cheers, O

Thanks a lot @HK-500! I admit I began to doubt with this option because @RossFMJ, @SnøMotion and @keefr22 were rather reserved on the latter (what I may very well understand of course). Your encouraging comment leads me to go on in this direction, more motivated and determined than ever! This would be my first real diorama (I created a kind of scene for my Honda Repsol bikes but without walls and furniture). The @kpnuts thread: will be very helpful and inspiring, definitely! Cheers, O

Dear @RossFMJ, I fully respect of course your point of view, all that is very personal and subjective and your suggestion is interesting. For me, though, the Robert Riley presentation is very nice and it’s the best way to enhance the highly detailed work done on every aspect of the build, even if I would prefer to leave the engine out of the body. Btw, Robert won the famous IPMS contest in the civilian category with this presentation… Cheers, Olivier

Hello chaps, First thank you so much for the kind words and support, much appreciated! I am at a crossroads. How will I choose to present my Porsche? Let's examine all the possibilities with their advantages and drawbacks: 1) Classic: the engine is installed in the body, the front and rear covers are open to allow viewing of the front and engine compartments. Adv: - the car is showed as you could see it in a museum Dr: - all the work done on the engine, but also the interior (dashboard, roll cage etc.) and the running gear, shock absorbers etc. are only very partially visible. The driver's side door could be kept open to expose the interior a bit more. - opening covers and maybe a door breaks the car's line 2) Robert Riley option: the engine is installed but the body is presented separately from the chassis: Adv: - very nice and impressive presentation, the interior is very well exposed as well as the running gears and shock absorbers. The engine is a bit more visible than in the first option. Dr: - as the engine is installed, it remains partially hidden (even if Robert seems to have placed a mirror under the latter to see the bottom) - some may not like the exploded presentation with separate body and chassis - the necessary showcase will be very large (about 45x 50 cm), requiring a wide room. It will also be mandatory tailor-made and so expensive 3) @kpnuts option: We deal here with a diorama including walls with posters and a nice Red tool chest. Adv: - Here too, the presentation is very nice and the idea to place the car on a large mirror allows to see bottom details. - the engine is placed out of the car on a stand itself over a mirror and so completely visible! Dr: - the body is assembled on the chassis what doesn't allow to see correctly interior details. - quite a lot of complementary work to create the diorama and the tool chest Now here is what could be my personal choice (I still may change my mind...): over a large mirror, both body, engine and chassis exposed side by side, a kind of synthesis between Robert Riley and @kpnuts. Below (and not on a mirror for now) a pic that will give you an idea: From R.R, I keep the exploded view, that is the best way to see all details, especially the interior for which I took a lot of care. From @kpnuts, I keep the engine exposed separately on a stand and the large mirror to see bottom details. I don't know yet if wheels would be assembled on the running gears or not. Adv: - a maximum of details visible in every aspect of the car, especially the engine - the covers could be kept closed as every inside details are exposed separately, allowing to reveal the beautiful line of this race car without breaking it Dr: - some may not like the exploded presentation (separate chassis and body). - showcase expensive (but if you consider the time spent on the build, it is worth it imho) and taking up a lot of space (but I have the necessary room). Furthermore, the corrections on damaged details of the engine are now done and so for the grinded walls of the rear compartment: Cheers, Olivier

Hello chaps, I didn't expect this engine would be so difficult to install in the body, and that I would need to considerably grind the frame. Several engine details also suffered a bit of the many trials and corrections, but nothing that can't be solved, happily... Even if I am still not sure I will install this engine in the body (it's a cruel dilemma to have to choose between the 2 options), I made it a point of honor to properly install this bloody engine. Yesterday night, while I was struggling with this new challenge, I read this: and I agreed with @adamg1987 (@RossFMJ did too) This morning, after more grinding and since the corrections on the frame should be nearly invisible with the body in place, I am no longer so sure. The pics below will give you an idea... What do you think? Cheers, Olivier

Hi again chaps, I wanted to go on and install the engine in its compartment (step 18) but I couldn't help checking a number of things beforehand. This led me to add the missing information marking (my previous post). Here are below other (and last!) necessary corrections/ improvements brought these 2 last days: The first one was about the back of the engine: More, I couldn't install the engine without having decided where some of the cables should end, especially the ones coming from the metering unit. In the lack of reference pics and as I don't know any owner of a 934 RSR, I trusted Robert Riley, adding AN fitting here, Yellow and Red 0,5 mm wires connected to F5/ F6 (from step 11) there and brought improvements on details everywhere (wink to a beautiful song of the Beatles...) But there comes a moment when we stay stop, and this moment just arrived. I took my last pics (on a White cardboard to change). Many details will be almost or even completely invisible after the engine assembly, these pics will be in a way a testimony of the work done on these... Cheers, Totally Mad Olivier

Hello chaps, A cherry on the cake and a tip in this post: N.B: of course, the little round foam wasn't cut in the rectangular one, I used another one... On the other hand, for several cables, I couldn't determine where they should end. Unless I find a happy owner of Porsche 934 who would be OK to let me check the engine (a challenge), it will be very difficult... Cheers, TMO

Hello chaps, I assure you that this engine is a real gas plant! So many cables, wires, details of all kinds... The step 17 (engine underside) is made of 2 steps in fact. It has required also a lot of detailing work. It is now just over, unless I finally something to add, a detail to improve... As I did for the previous steps, let's take a look first at the Tamiya's instructions that represent just a working basis: Here too, I can't detail all the job done but will give below an idea of the latter. Missing cables: several cables were missing that had to be added. 1) this one, between H36 (assembled step 15) and H21 (assembled step 16): 2) This one, between F13 (step 17) and C34 (step 12): 3) These 2 ones, including the one that borns on C9 (step 17): ... that makes a curve on top of C15 (step 17), with hose clamps: ... and ends in the body underside: I used the TD 1 mm Silver braided line to represent it, while for the widest portion, I used 2 mm tin wire: E3 oil transfer rails: Exhaust pipes: From a pic to another, they may vary a lot. I based myself on the one above for mine, applying first (after the necessary filling/ sanding job) a coat of Fine Silver, then a coat of Alclad Metal Sepia and finally a mix of XF-1 and XF-10 thinned generously with 95° alcohol for subtles effects. I used the Tamiya n°13 PE parts for the brackets (SL24 also provides them), painted the same after a coat of Metal Primer. Third pulleys/ belt set: Difficult to get pics of this one, here are my best ones: F49 parts and C19 scratch build: Cowling F31: This post was one of the most difficult to write (I thought I would never achieve to do it) because all these details were worked more or less alongside. Here is the final result for this whole engine: In the next step (18), the engine will be assembled in the body, while the steps 19 and 20 will be dedicated to additional engine equipment... Cheers, TMO P.S: something was missing on my engine:

Hello chaps, In the previous post, I said I couldn't detail all the job done, because it would mean too much time and so endless build and thread. But sometimes, I like to detail how I bring a little improvement. That's what I 'm gonna do now. It will give me the occasion to detail the use of a BBK hose clamp. All that through the below 10 pics: N.B: thanks @RossFMJ for telling me what Brits call Jubilee clips! I didn't know it was another name for hose clamps. N.B: the Jubilee clip should be a bit more tight around the pipe. The little drawback of this option. In comparison, the other hose clamps on the pipe I scratch built using 0,1 mm tin sheet thickness assembled with dsa make "more body with the hose". They also require a bit less time to implement. But honestly, at naked eye, the BBK option remains pertinent. Cheers, thanks for your kind words and interest in my work! Olivier

Hello chaps, I am pleased to show you a new update, my step 16 being now over, phew! I can't detail all the job done, and here too, things were not really simple, but I'm happy with the result and it's definitely what matters. A few pics are better than 1000 words, here they are: Cheers, Olivier

Hello chaps, Again a very lot to say and show with the step 16, that is still not over... But first, I have to come-back on the set pipes/ sleeves/ clamps: Now I think I can say that these pipes with sleeves and clamps are acceptable and that it is over for that. Let's go on with the big bended hose H28/29. Main ref. pic: But the biggest piece of this step 16, it's the metering unit. Several great ref. pics, below the main ones: Well that's all for now but as I said above, the work on this step 16 is still in progress. The wires R1, R2, R3, R4 and R12 provided by Tamiya won't be used, too thick (0,85 mm), and replaced by 0,5 mm ones, that should hopefully come into the 0,3 mm end of the TD banjo fittings: I will be far from my bench for a few days (family meeting at Brussels). Cheers, TMO

Hello chaps, Phew! You can't imagine, one more time, the job I had to do to get the result below, nearly acceptable: The defect will be reworked of course... Where should I begin? Using a real rubber joint as I did first was a wrong good idea, because it was impossible to get any adhesion of the clamps on this material. Despite all my efforts, the clamps tended to slide over the sleeves… The only good (but difficult) decision was to completely redo this step using another option: I chose to use dental Copper rings (these rings are totally obsolete in dentistry today but you can still find them): (You'll see a little later in this post that I also used the same rings to improve the exhaust pipe...). I had first experienced the Copper tube for the sleeve present on the vertical pipe: After a metal primer coat, the sleeve was painted Mat Black (later, I would finally choose the Rubber Black). Using a portion of PE sheet to represent the clamps had been another wrong good idea because this material is not soft enough and has so an adverse elastic return. I used this time a cut portion of 0,1 mm tin sheet, much more versatile: This neat result confirmed me in doing the same to represent the sleeves on the horizontal pipe and I also given up using the a bit disappointing BBK clamps (too narrow slots imho). On some reference pics like the one below, we may see a simple ring, I decided to rely on this pic: My step 15 is so now over (except the little defect mentioned above) and probably one or 2 other little details. I also began the Tamiya step 16 (a big step with a lot of detailing job to come), here is it: I began with the KKK Turbo and exhaust pipe set. Let's take a look at the ref. pics of this area as usual: N.B: we can see how pertinent is @nick suggestion… You can see the final result of this set Turbo/exhaust pipe on the 2 first pics of this post. You will also understand that it was too late and risky to follow the @nick suggestion above… To be followed, Cheers, Olivier

Not so rough, Nick, and indisputably much better than the Tamiya part, even improved as mentioned above. But pity, it is a bit too late for me to bring this improvement, because with the set KKKturbo/ exhaust pipe in place, it would be very risky (you will see that soon with my next post). If I had to rebuild this kit, I would definitely follow this good suggestion. Btw, you are the happy owner of the Jagermeister version, does all this thread make you want to go to your bench to build it?? Cheers, O

Yes, I could have done that, @Blacque Jacque, but happily, all is OK with this assembly up to now. More, I just assembled the exhaust pipe (post to come soon) and the engine may be now placed normally, with much less risks for the waste-gate fragile assembly. Cheers, O

I didn’t understand what you suggest, Nick. Can you precise with a drawing fe? Cheers, O

Hi again, Promises are made to be kept, the waste-gate job now (I didn't want to add more weight to the heavy previous posts): here again, depending on the pics, you get different looks of this waste-gate. Here are below my main sources of inspiration for the detailing painting job of this area (I was also inspired by the great job done by R.R but can't reproduce here abstracts of TMM without permission): Once assembled the parts C38, H31 and H30, the first thing to do is to fill the gaps. The second work was to deepen and thin the bottom of H30: Cheers, Olivier