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Olivier de St Raph

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Everything posted by Olivier de St Raph

  1. Hi Antonio, you are right, they are probably a bit oversized but I don't think I will redo them. Considering the small scale, it is not a big problem imho. More, I have weathered them, and they will be more discreet. That said, I will remember the idea of the guitar string, it is a good idea to which I had not thought, even if it would not allow to insert the hook in the rod's hole, like I did. Do you know what diameter it is? (I am not a guitar player, only a little bit of piano ) Cheers Olivier
  2. Hello to all, After the amazing saga my last build has been (a vintage race car, the Fiat 806 Corsa at 1/12 Italeri, see if interested the summarize here: https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&ved=0ahUKEwif_vra5cnXAhUGuhoKHYo9BJIQFgg4MAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britmodeller.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F235028933-fiat-806-corsa-112-a-true-to-original-replica%2F&usg=AOvVaw35SjHJwOHWiadD7NM-4lu3 ), I begin a new build, very different (I am used to alternate a vehicle and an aircraft up to now). Of course, many builds have ever been dedicated to the Tamiya P 51D Mustang, especially on Britmodeller... I saw particularly the Squibby one, begun very recently and very nice, that will be definitely a source of inspiration. But as every build is different and personal, I decided to dive again in the Brit bath! I must precise too that I will take a good part of my inspiration in the great Juan Manuel Villalba DVD, for which I made the translation in french for the subtitles. Juan is a very famous modeler and a real gentleman, who learnt me a lot in model making and photography, he is a master and a friend, even if we couldn't meet up to now (we live far away one to the other one, pity...). Before beginning the build, a word of history: John Brooke England was born in 1923 at Caruthersville, Missouri. His service number was O-739263 and he joined the 362nd FS of the 357th FG in April 1943 as a 1/Lt meaning that he was part of the original cadre that left the ZI in November 1943 for the UK. He was promoted to Captain and then to Major. He took command of the 362nd FS on 25 August 1944. He served two tours with the 357th FG for a total of 108 operational missions giving a total of 460 hours combat flying time. He was the second highest scorer in the 357th with a total of 17.5 victories. England finished his second tour and rotated home on 26 January 1945. He remained in the service after the war and was killed in an F-86 crash in November 1954 in France. I began my build logically by preparing the parts of the section 1 and some other ones, placing them in a box with compartments, that I got in the Italeri's kit (one of the best part of this kit, definitely ): N.B: I just made the photo, so the radio compartment is ever begun... After the parts preparation, I began the cockpit by removing some details to replace them by new ones (arrow 1, and the radio). I didn't use the Eduard P.E part 47, too thin, and replaced it by 0,3 mm thick tin wire (arrow 3) I must precise now that, differently with Juan, who made the radio by total scratch (amazing), I used the very recent Eduard photoetched set for Airfix kit (ref. 49853), that I had to adapt to the Tamiya kit: N.B: here too, I just made the photo, some parts have been removed and ever used. The screws on the side were made from very small portions cut in 0,2 mm thick tin wire (Juan cuts in stretched plastic). The tabs come from another Eduard PE set. N.B: I had to adapt the A 17 Tamiya part to the Eduard 42 one, smaller (for Airfix) and accidently, I cut a portion of the floor and radio support. Of course, I will do the necessary correction... IMPORTANT: I have decided (lately, I had to edit my posts) to number the pics: - the assembly pics will be numbered in yellow - the docs will be numbered in black (white if the background is black). The different versions (enlargements, fe) of a same doc will have a letter a, b, c... after the number. So, it will be easier to mention a pic in the debates we should have.
  3. Phew! As I said above, I have redone my set springs/ rods too long. I have modified (and improved) my method, using for the flat rods PE metal sprues, as for the vertical one of my last post (pic 67). Inserting and rolling the tiny (0,2 mm thick) tin wire in the small holes was very delicate. Then a small drop of thick cyano was brought on the sides of the PE pedals, and the sets gently placed there: My dashboard has been replaced: Still 1 or 2 cables running on both sides of the floor, the front panel to paint IG and to restick, and this time, sure, my 1st step will be over...
  4. I have created a slot on the left side of the floor, as we can see on the docs above. I have removed temporary the front panel of A 17 and the dashboard in order to drill a 0,4 mm hole in the front side of left panel, in which a 0,3 mm rod has been introduced. And then cut in waste PE the vertical rod, finally glued at the bottom of the 0,3 mm rod. Furthermore, I have renonced to the two-color joystick bellows, and used only a lightened Olive Drab, with finally lights and shadows unlike what I had first done. I prefer it like that.
  5. On the 3 docs below, a detail I had missed, this squarre hole in the floor left side, in which a cable is running: Furthermore, the doc 82 shows that my spring and the rod (pic 65 above) were too long (both about 7 mm), I will have to redo these sets with a lenght of about 4,5 mm max. Thanks again to Antonio for the new docs sent by email that allowed me to see this detail...
  6. Thanks John! I have chosen to take my time indeed and try to represent a quite accurate cockpit, even if, of course, I had to deal with the small scale. Thanks to you too, Squibby. Indeed, it won't be easy to fix these small parts. More soon... I am not sure I see what you mean. When I put my cockpit in the half fuselage, I have small gaps (not large). But maybe you mean somewhere else... Can you take a photo with an arrow to show where you get these large gaps? I take advantage of your comment to add a pic:
  7. I have scratchbuilt the set spring/ rod going to the pedals that we could see on the docs 79 and especially 80 above. A 0,2 mm diameter tin wire is wrapping a 0,3 mm brass tube. The rod was cut in O,2 mm thickness acetate sheet. After painting (Alu XF 16) and drying, these sets will be put in place.
  8. The set dashboard/ pedals has been glued in place. I will add details seen above and then I will begin to work on the side panels. Still a lot of work to do... I have checked the good fitting of my cockpit in the half fuselage, it is O.K.
  9. I begin to work on the pedals. I will probably use the 59 Eduard PE part from the set 49216 (forTamiya), better than the A5 Tamiya part. Pedals pics: This 2nd doc shows important details to add, especially this spring and these cables (to represent both sides at the limit floor/ side panels)
  10. The radiator A7 was painted black (XF1) and then a dry brush technique with enamel XF16 has been applied with a flat brush. I am wondering what color should be applied on the underbody (red arrow). We know that the A6 part (step 6) will get the black and white identification strips, but this underbody? Medium Sea Grey, like the rest of the underbody? The best references I have for now of this area are these ones (77 and 78) , on a restored aircraft. I am not sure I can refer to that... On the other hand, the red arrows on this doc show details that should probably be represented. I would need your opinion and if possible, more docs about this area... Cheers
  11. Many thanks to both of you, Hannes and Antonio, my precious friends ! Cheers Olivier
  12. My new joystick is in place, as the modified locking system. Because I made a real wrapping around the control stick, I did not consider necessary to create a 3D effect with lights and shadows on the gusset. I applied 2 different colors (good idea?) as we can see on some of our docs (not all...) It is certainly not perfect, but it is imho quite better than my previous stick version (pics 54, 55, 57) and I accept this as a good compromise.
  13. I have edited my post 239 above to add the pic 76, because it is the best to represent the locking system. The "?" arrows show 2 details that I did not see on other docs. I wonder if I should add them?
  14. On my second seat, I made what I said above, removing completely the Tamiya gusset and building very simply the control stick assembly. The comparison with the doc 73 above will push me to improve some details (especially the lug, much oversized), and then, I will dress this set with a homemade gusset. After reflection, I will use the nitrile of my single use gloves as gusset, with small drops of cyano to fix it around the stick. I precise that I won't use the stick and handle of this 2 nd seat, but just the low portion, that will be glued on my stretched stick (see above build pic 59). More soon...
  15. Thanks so much one more time, Antonio, great docs and very useful, as always... You are right, the doc 49 is probably the best reference but your 2nd pic above (after the nice video) will be very good too... I did an enlargement and numbered it 75: Notice the 2 different colors, like on the doc 72 above... The lug is to paint IG and not metal... Notice that the locking system is full red on several docs, including the 75 just above and the 76 just below, while it is partially IG on other ones. I think I will choose the full red option, more probable imho.
  16. About the sidewalls, here is an interesting doc, regarding the left panel: I used to wonder what what the function of the part we usually see on docs and builds. Now it's clear. And if we consider that we represent an aircraft in service (like the Missouri or the Daddy's Girl), it would be great to represent the gun too, imho.
  17. Thanks Squibby, but first of all your cockpit is however excellent . And I could "put more thought" just because Antonio brought me the necessary (and amazing) docs. And like you, I would have some mods to do and it is now very delicate and probably too late (the wrong angle seen above). We have to deal with compromises, considering the scale (1/48) and the fact that all these details will be just slightly visible at the end. You are right, representing the gusset will be very delicate (thanks about the tip, indeed it is necessary to keep fingers and tools wet with the Green Stuff). I made trials on my second stick that up to now were not very convincing (I am not yet very familiar with this material). More, I would need to have more photos of the gusset (many pics represent the control stick without the gusset, of course very interesting too). I have mainly this one (rear view): ... and the ones of very good big scale builds (doc 70 and 71). Another consideration: I think it would be necessary, in order to represent correctly the gusset, to first remove completely the Tamiya one and scratchbuild the control stick assembly (very simply of course), using the great doc Antonio brought us and whose I made the below enlargement: Fe, the first version of the lug I made was wrong, because I glued the lug on the Tamiya gusset. But the gusset will be very short and vertical on the front part of the stick, to allow the lug to pass through (hope it sounds clear...), as the lug is just a short extension on front of the stick (red arrow 2). As a scratchbuilder of figures will usefully sculpt the body with muscles before adding the clothes, I think we should first represent the structure before representing the gusset. Antonio, if you could bring us more pics of the gusset (profile and views with the lug going through), it would be fantastic (I know you are a magician). And I don't forget this good hint: Cheers P.S: thank you to confirm me that the word "gusset" is correct to mention what we call in french "le soufflet"...
  18. I have begun redoing my joystick, using a portion of stretched plastic to replace the Tamiya stick and improving the angle between stick and handle: I am gonna take advantage of these modifs to improve the gusset, inspired by this one, very nice and natural, on a 1/32 or 1/24 build. If we consider the control stick assembly Antonio showed above, I think the Tamiya one is not thick enough in the rear portion of the gusset. I think I will use the Green Stuff (ordered and received recentely from Green Stuff World) to create gusset folds...
  19. The last comment from Antonio pushed me to do a profile view comparison between my build and the first doc just above. This comparison shows mainly that: - the angle that the seat support (and so the seat) does with a vertical line should me more important, about 18°, while it is only 10° on my build - the stick should be a bit longer and thinner, the handle a bit shorter and doing a more important angle with the stick. I am not sure I will do the correction for the seat angle, very delicate now, but I will try to improve at least the joystick...
  20. Thank you Antonio, you are absolutely right, I had not noticed that. I will replace the Tamiya stick, too short and too thick, indeed... This shows one more time the advantage of sharing in a thread like this one... These 2 pics will be very helpful, definitely! Cheers
  21. I have scratchbuilt the stick locking system:
  22. Slow progress because of few time. On the first photo, 1: a necessary thin (0,13 mm Evergreen) sheet has been added, that we can see on the docs above (62a, 69, 70...) 2: the color here is rather yellow, kind of Zinc Chromate, than IG (docs 62a, 69) 3: the lug (see above) has been added (a 0,3 mm hole drilled with Tamiya drill in 0,2 mm thickness acetate sheet) On this 2nd one, 1: I had to remove the bracket under A11 in order to move a bit backward the dashboard. A 0,25 mm thin sheet has been added to increase a bit the height. So, I could add... ... 2: the bell seen above (Rivet Tool, 0,3 mm thickness tin sheet) Some other improvements will be necessary on this dashboard, more soon...
  23. Dear Antonio, I began to put an eye (and even 2! ) to the incredible documents you kindly put in the thread above. All what you wanted to know about the... P-51D is there, and some of the best docs you brought are in one of these 3 docs. I made a lot of screen captures (especially of the 2nd one) and this will be of course very useful for my build. I am sure many modelers will appreciate... The first one is the P-51-D-5 British model pilot's flight operating instructions (51 pages). The second one is a modern flight manual (simulator?) in color with beautiful pics , rivets lines, full of interesting infos (176 pages + supplements). The third one is the original pilot training manual for the P-51, with an introduction and a portrait of Dwight Eisenhower! (about 186 pages) 1000 thanks again! All the best Olivier
  24. Thank you again Antonio for these amazing docs. Now, I think things are more clear. If I understand well, there was a locking system that allowed the pilot to stop driving for a moment (kind of auto pilot). Here are enlargements of our best docs to represent this stick locking system (I will represent it unlocked): Photo 1: a numeric but very good representation on top view of the system unlocked: Photo 2: other top view under another angle: Photo 3: lateral view of the unlocked system: Photo 4: here, the control seems to be locked (locking arm vertical and very close from the joystick). But this photo shows the kind of bell (like we have on the right panel) and that should be represented if possible: Photo 5: enlargement of this area on the excellent 1/32 build ever seen above: notice that the modeler did not forget to represent the lug coming through the gusset. A very good reference, definitely, even if this gusset should be more Olive Drab than Leather Brown, imho...
  25. Great, as always, Santa Claus!
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