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Olivier de St Raph

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Everything posted by Olivier de St Raph

  1. Thanks for this good hint, galfa! And thanks too Jamie for the useful tuto! Cheers Olivier
  2. Hello to all, After the amazing saga my last build has been (a vintage race car, the Fiat 806 Corsa at 1/12 Italeri, see if interested the summarize here: https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&ved=0ahUKEwif_vra5cnXAhUGuhoKHYo9BJIQFgg4MAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britmodeller.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F235028933-fiat-806-corsa-112-a-true-to-original-replica%2F&usg=AOvVaw35SjHJwOHWiadD7NM-4lu3 ), I begin a new build, very different (I am used to alternate a vehicle and an aircraft up to now). Of course, many builds have ever been dedicated to the Tamiya P 51D Mustang, especially on Britmodeller... I saw particularly the Squibby one, begun very recently and very nice, that will be definitely a source of inspiration. But as every build is different and personal, I decided to dive again in the Brit bath! I must precise too that I will take a good part of my inspiration in the great Juan Manuel Villalba DVD, for which I made the translation in french for the subtitles. Juan is a very famous modeler and a real gentleman, who learnt me a lot in model making and photography, he is a master and a friend, even if we couldn't meet up to now (we live far away one to the other one, pity...). Before beginning the build, a word of history: John Brooke England was born in 1923 at Caruthersville, Missouri. His service number was O-739263 and he joined the 362nd FS of the 357th FG in April 1943 as a 1/Lt meaning that he was part of the original cadre that left the ZI in November 1943 for the UK. He was promoted to Captain and then to Major. He took command of the 362nd FS on 25 August 1944, while he was only 21. He served two tours with the 357th FG for a total of 108 operational missions giving a total of 460 hours combat flying time. He was the second highest scorer in the 357th with a total of 17.5 victories. England finished his second tour and rotated home on 26 January 1945. He remained in the service after the war and was killed in an F-86 crash in November 1954 in France. I began my build logically by preparing the parts of the section 1 and some other ones, placing them in a box with compartments, that I got in the Italeri's kit (one of the best part of this kit, definitely ): N.B: I just made the photo, so the radio compartment is ever begun... After the parts preparation, I began the cockpit by removing some details to replace them by new ones (arrow 1, and the radio). I didn't use the Eduard P.E part 47, too thin, and replaced it by 0,3 mm thick tin wire (arrow 3) I must precise now that, differently with Juan, who made the radio by total scratch (amazing), I used the very recent Eduard photoetched set for Airfix kit (ref. 49853), that I had to adapt to the Tamiya kit: N.B: here too, I just made the photo, some parts have been removed and ever used. The screws on the side were made from very small portions cut in 0,2 mm thick tin wire (Juan cuts in stretched plastic). The tabs come from another Eduard PE set. N.B: I had to adapt the A 17 Tamiya part to the Eduard 42 one, smaller (for Airfix) and accidently, I cut a portion of the floor and radio support. Of course, I will do the necessary correction... IMPORTANT: I have decided (lately, I had to edit my posts) to number the pics: - the assembly pics will be numbered in yellow - the docs will be numbered in black (white if the background is black). The different versions (enlargements, fe) of a same doc will have a letter a, b, c... after the number. So, it will be easier to mention a pic in the debates we should have. GLOSSARY: this glossary will refer to the numbered docs. Of course, it will be actualized along the way... - 108 gallon paper tanks: 20a, 23, 23a, 94, 94a, 95, 96, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 119, 128, 129, 131, 132, 133, 134a, 137d - radio compartment and fuselage tank: 1, 1a, 1b, 1c, 1d, 2, 3, 4, 4a, 4b, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9a, 10, 11, 12, 15, 26, 30, 65, 66 - outside, rivets: 90, 97, 97a, 97b, 98, 98a, 98b, 99, 101, 102, 103, 103a, 104, 104a, 117, 118, 137b c d, 138a b c, 139 - gear strut and wheels: 23a, 23b, 106, 106a, 120, 134a, 137b - tail wheel: 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 130, 138b - John England: 24, 24a, 24b, 24c, 25, 106 - joystick: 46, 49b, 62, 70, 71, 72, 73, 75, 76 - Missouri Armada: 20, 20a, 21, 22, 23, 23a, 100, 106, 118 - left panel: 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57, 58, 58a, 59, 60, 60a, 74, 84, 85, 88 - right panel: 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 88 - pedals: 52, 79, 80 - cockpit floor and details: 46, 46a, 47, 48, 48b, 49, 49a, 49b, 61, 62, 62a, 64, 67, 68, 69, 70, 80, 81, 82, 83 - seat, seat support, cushion and seat belts: 5, 5a, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18a, 30, 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 35, 36, 37, 37a, 38, 39, 40, 137c - instrument panel: 87, 88 - canopy and rail: 18a, 18b, 19, 27, 28, 29, 89, 90, 91, 91a, 92, 92a, 93, 101, 118, 137a - radiator area: 77, 78, 86, 137d, 138a - helix and nose: 104, 106, 118, 134b - landing gear wells: 138a N.B: Lately, I have abandoned the idea of numbering the docs, for several reasons, among others : - some docs that I first considered as very important had finally to be not good. It is the case for example of the ones showing the rivets lines 97 and 98. - it is difficult (and sometimes unfair) to decide that such a doc is more important than another one. - numbering the docs is time consuming and we can refer easily to a doc by mentioning the post#. - small and small, a lot of docs and infos have been brought in the thread, which has turned in a real reference one, thanks to the contribution of experts on the matter. Thank you for your comprehension, I hope you will enjoy the thread...
  3. Thank you so much for that info, galfa. I didn't know that an Aires kit for Tamiya did exist for the wheel bay. I followed your hint, and ordered this item (12,07 € including shipping costs on Super Hobby.com) much cheaper than the Vector one (23,41 € including shipping costs on neomega-resin.com). This Tamiya kit, initially unexpensive, begins to represent a quite considerable cost, if you add the several aftermarkets items I bought and the books (O'Leary and Olmsted). But if you take in account that such a kit represents months of fascinating model making hobby, it remains an acceptable cost.
  4. Thank you elger for these useful comments. Another comparison between both sets (you will notice that I like comparisons ): Aires for Hobby Boss VS Vector for Tamiya: - the pipes seem to be a little better on the Aires (more pipes and more relief) - on the other hand, the stringers are imho a bit too thin on the Aires kit, if I refer to our doc (see fe the pic in the post#919 above) I have decided to order the Vector one, mainly because it is fitted for the Tamiya kit. If the Aires had been fitted also for the Tamiya kit, I would certainly have chosen the latter. That said, imho, none of these resin sets, as good as they can be, can stand comparison with Squibby scratch result. With scratch, pipes are not molded but real wires. Having ordered the Vector kit doesn't mean I am sure I renonce definitely to the scratch option. In the meantime, one more time, waiting to get this set just ordered, I will have to go on with other aspects of my build. More soon...
  5. There is a Russian resin set for the Tamiya kit, from the brand Vector. I could finally decide to order it instead of the scratch option... This would allow me to earn time... What do you think of this set? This 3rd photo below shows that the Vector, like the Aires set, is correct regarding the rear wall:
  6. Another comparison below to show: 1) why I would need a close-up of the underbody (see my post# 920 above), this photo (from Laurent) being a good reference for weathering aspects, but not for details on this area... John T., Laurent, Antonio (or anyone else) can you help me please? 2) that the outside walls of the tamiya gear bays are correct. Edger said just above: I had to have a closer look to understand what he meant, and, of course, he is right. The only solution to improve this is to remove completely this rear wall and to rebuild it, exactly what Squibby did (post# 11 and so on) in his BM thread: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=14&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjp9b-wns7aAhVBmxQKHYA9BQYQFghtMA0&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britmodeller.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F235028306-p-51d-daddys-girl-or-how-to-ruin-a-perfectly-good-tamiya-mustang-kit%2F&usg=AOvVaw0n8036X81E-iqst0AC-Air and I will inspire myself of this great job. Thank you elger anyway, despite that I had seen Squibby's job (but not read carefully his text of post#11...), I had not realised this problem with the Tamiya kit... You avoid me a mistake here. ... and thanks to Squibby for his great tuto... Olivier P.S: thanks elger for the link too, but this aftermarket resin set is not for Tamiya kit, but for the Hobby Boss. That’s why I think I will rather follow Squibby ´s tuto and do this by scratch
  7. Before going on with the gear bays, and as I checked again my fuselage, I realized that my sanding job was uncomplete, and now that it is better (not yet excellent), I would need a close-up on the real aircraft, in order to be sure the Tamiya kit is right with the small panels and details in this area: (a merciless close-up...) N.B: take in consideration that the cyano used as a filler has a drawback, it is clear. That's why some joints seem to be still present while they will completely disappear with the painting job... Thanks for your help... Olivier
  8. Thanks a lot elger for these nice and interesting pics. On my side, I made the comparison below, to show that, if the Tamiya kit is a good base for the gear bays considering the scale, it is of course far from doing justice to the very complex network of pipes, cables and other details...
  9. So we should have a bare alu color on the interior-facing surfaces, unlike most of our docs above show (but many of them are pics of the Sierra Sue II, a later version compared with the Missouri... So these interior-facing surfaces should have the Alclad stencils, OK? Ok, that's clear. Ok, so some parts (difficult for me to identify precisely which ones even if John T. mentions "castings and forgings") should be painted green ZC... Pics should be helpful on this matter (the seventh pic of John post#671 gives an idea) Ok... in such conditions, we have to deal with uncertainties and just try to suggest something possible... John, do you think I should represent a gear door bare metal or with the ZC partial treatment as we can see below, fe?
  10. Now I begin the gear bay work. The first thing I decided to do is to take photos of the Tamiya proposition (3 angles of view), to precise the starting point. Looking at these close-up, the Tamiya parts seem to be a good base, definitely. These photos will then be compared with some of our best documents (the harder will be to choose). More soon...
  11. Thanks to all for your kind messages. A new little step today: as a joke, I have assembled my wings, but no, John, they are of course not yet glued in place (in fact, the bottom part is temporary ever glued but not the 2 upper ones, just dry fit assembled as I have first to work on the gear bays, what will be my next challenge, helped among others by Squibby's - who I hope will find motivation again to go on with his build, so promising - Matt and Juan Manuel great jobs on these areas).
  12. In about 6 months and 40 more pages
  13. There you exaggerate, Johnny, only 5 little months (up to now...) But for the 1/12 Italeri Fiat 806, I spent 13 months for the whole partial scratchbuild, and the thread "research and scratchbuild" (that is not yet over with especially Hannes) is now 191 pages!! Notice that I had needed only 3 weeks to build the Fiat OOB, that was however a much more complex build than the Missouri Tamiya at 1/48. All depends what you want to get, a fast result or a great satisfaction... So I am the Leon Tolstoï of model making ! And definitely a completely mad guy, for sure...
  14. It seems to me that it makes an eternity that I began this build with the radio compartment (it was in last november, 5 months ago). I didn't expect spending so much time to be only there... But I didn’t expect too learning so much about this aircraft, about the 357th FG, with so many consequences for my build. A fascinating one, definitely, thanks to this dream team I had at my side. My next steps will be naturally the sanding job (with my home made sanding tool ever mentioned above) to make disappear all the joints and then the adding of details inside the cockpit, especially the gunsight. Cheers Olivier
  15. N.B: looking again closely to our great doc 126 (see my post#900 on last page), I finally don't consider this construction I made will be totally useless. I will indeed have to fix the canvas on something on top, to get a convincing result, as it is on the doc 126. This top stent will be represented by the Evergreen sheet with the 3 holes. But of course, if I had known the canvas would hide all that construction, the latter could have been more simple... Furthermore, I am thinking about the material I will use for the canvas. Maybe some of you remember that, for the joystick bellows, I had used small portions of nitrile single use gloves. Maybe I could do the same for the canvas... But all suggestions on that matter will be welcome.
  16. I love British humor, John 😊 Olivier
  17. Dear John, it doesn't matter for the work I did, finally un necessary as I will represent the canvas. I just hope it will be useful for the ones who would not put the canvas... No question for me to change my Missouri for a Korean war version because of this detail. Cheers Olivier
  18. Thanks a lot dear Matt for your encouragements. About the wrapping canvas around the tail wheel leg, it is clearly my intention to represent it (I will take inspiration in yours), but before, I wanted to build this formwork we can see on docs, to avoid an empty feeling inside this bay. All the best Olivier P.S (edited later): now I realize (a bit too late) that the canvas (see the doc below), not only encloses the leg but hides completely the frame and details. So my work above will become invisible too... I could have earned time... And even the question of inside bay color, with the canvas, becomes outdated... while your comment is totally justified. I will definitely fall in every trap of this build! N.B: this great photo from Laurent is definitely the best one we have to represent the canvas and will be my reference doc for that detail.I should have studied it better before scratchbuilding the formwork...
  19. I have another question for our best experts (still waiting for a reply for the one just above): I have several versions of tail wheel well, with sometimes alu or light grey inside: and sometimes Green (in different shades): I have worked these last days on this area, scratchbuilding a frame (see below) as we may see on these photos (especially the last one) and I have to do the paintjob now. So? what was the right color for this inside bay? In the doubt, I will choose the alu option for my Missouri. But here too, your help would be very welcome... N.B: my tail wheel bay is not over, I have to add a kind of rectangular panel that we can see on the doc 122 above...
  20. I remember that someone in the thread (I think it was John Terrell) had explained that, unlike the photo suggests, the area behind the radiator has to be painted alu (and not YZC) for a 10-NA version like the Missouri. Could you confirm that info, please, I want to be 100% sure before applying alu there.
  21. Fiat 806: research and scratchbuilds

    We look forward too, my dear Hannes... It is very special for me to see your Fiat 806 progress on our thread, while I am now so focused on a totally different build. I am still learning nearly every day something new, in model making as in historical aspects. Model making is a soft drug... Many greetings and keep the good! Olivier
  22. I have followed Antonio's hint to improve 2 of the 4 placards (the left ones). This was not easy at all at 1/48 scale, with tiny portions of decals. The result is a little better on the close-up, and really good at the naked eye. But another patient work was necessary to improve the rivets... My right panel is now over.
  23. sure it is, definitely! A good tip, that I will try to follow to the letter... Thanks a lot Antonio! P.S: I will try to improve my "rivets" too... P.S 2: I have just ordered the 1/48 stressed surface flaps from Rust Usmanov, who had sent me an email to inform me that both 1/32 and 1/48 flaps were now available. I hope these resin aftermarket flaps will be as beautiful as they appeared on Antonio's pics (Antonio that I thank here for this very good info...).
  24. Thanks Antonio. By "placards", you mean this? If yes (what I suppose), I am indeed not very glad with them, even if, honestly, at naked eye, they look OK (the same for the small black and white points I made for the tiny rivets). But if I can improve these details, why not? That said, in fact, for 3 of the 4 placards (except for the left one, finally all painted after that the decal had peeled off...), I precisely used black decals cut as you suggest. I had to add inscriptions and the white frame around, what was uneasy at this scale... Rather than photoetched parts useless because not fitted to the part they are supposed to represent (fe the PE Eduard to represent the canopy opening handle, awful), the aftermarket brands should offer quality decals for such details as these placards. Indeed, the decal sheets are full of small decals for the outside part of our model, but they often forget the details in the cockpit, very important too. So, we have to deal with what we find in our decal reserve... and with our paintbrushes and acrylic paints! Cheers