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Posts posted by Starfighter
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HMS Belfast in 1/200 scale 🙂
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Absolutely love it ! The very subtle weathering on the upper wings is beautifully done, and your model is a fitting tribute to a grand old lady 😊
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I remember visiting Lakenheath back in the days when they were operating F-111F's and they were having an exercise with about 10 airplanes taking off one after the other. Most were in the " Normal" Vietnam camo, but one aircraft has substituted the usual green 34079 with what can best be described as like Luftwaffe schwartzgrun !so stood out like a sore thumb !
I guess this proves the exception to the rule 🙂
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2 hours ago, cherisy said:
Like Troffa said above plus the FGR2 didn't have the 3 landing lights on the nose wheel door.
The FGR 2 had a single landing light in the nosewheel door. Look at photos of FGR 2's and you'll see what I mean.. HTH
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9 hours ago, IJNfan said:
I haven't so thanks for that. as for the repairs, that is not easy at all, so this build is hereby shelved indefinitely.
Oh dear, sorry to hear that😟.
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I'm not sure if you've noticed, but the funnel cap is on back to front ! Hopefully it should be fairly easy to correct before you go too far . HTH
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ICM produce a very nice He 111 in various marks, and I built the He 111H-3 kit in Battle of Britain markings, and found it an excellent model, which goes together well. Never done a 1/32 version ( not enough room ! ) but I've heard that the Revell one is supposed to be good, as is their 1/48 version. HTH
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Wow, that's looking superb, Jeddahbill. I built the Dragon 1/72 version in 2014, and scratch built most of the missing details, but your model looks to be in a different league to mine.
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I remember the small vent pipes on the underside of the rear engine fairings, which I believe were also on the FG!? We had a pilot doing his pre flight checks on one of our FGR 2's who gashed his head on one of those little pipes, so his flight was cancelled and off he went to the medical centre to be patched up. I quite often backed into one of the inner wheel bay doors while loading the SUU 23 gun pod. It seemed that every door or panel was designed to cause as much injury as possible to groundcrew ! 🙂
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What happened to the fuselage insignia ? They look a s if they haven't settled down properly ? Also, I don't know whether you've noticed, but your underwing roundel is upside down ? Really like he "Metal " finish, though. Just thought I'd point out the underwing decal issue for you, which should be an easy fix, and it is no way a criticism of your model. Believe me, I've made boo boos like that before !
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That looks lovely, Alpha delta 210. I always liked the Matchbox kits, and the few I built were a pleasure to work with. I don't see much evidence of the so called trench line panels that were supposedly a hallmark of these kits, and they certainly weren't any worse than some of the recent Airfix offerings, but I'm wandering off topic !
Anyway, as I said, that is a lovely model, and I may well build one in the future, seeing as how I live not far from the old home of the 323rd, BG.
As a point of interest I believe we met at the Wethersfield museum 4 - 5 years ago ? I brought one of my F-100 paintings for Ross, the museum curator. 🙂
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Many thanks for the info, guts, especially regarding the enamels effect on the tyres. Ao acrylic spray it is, then.
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10 hours ago, keefr22 said:
I generally apply a thin brushed on coat of gloss acrylic varnish to the sidewall, apply the decal as normal and then when dry give it a final sealing coat of matt acrylic varnish. I find it better to do this after the wheels are painted and the tyres are on, as otherwise you risk damaging or even removing the decals.
This is assuming they are waterslide and not the dry rub down type you get in some car kits?
Keith
I don't normally use acrylics, so I presume this system will work with enamels ?
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Hi guys,
I'm about to start building my Tamiya 1/20 scale JPS Lotus 79, and would like some advice regarding the tyre decals. There are none in the kit, but I have a superb decal set which includes markings for the tyres, which I would like to add. This is a new venture for me, as I mainly build aircraft, so can one of you chaps advise me on how to apply the decals to the tyres, as they are rubber and I'm not sure how well they will adhere ? Any help would be gratefully received.
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Oh yes, I do have this saved on one of my external HDD's, but nice to see it again. Just reminds me of my time in Dec
imomannu back in the early 70's with the RAF . . . happy days 😊.
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I'm building a 1/32 F - 100D at the moment, and for the aluminium finish ( FS 17178 ) I used Xtracolor X142 , which is actually called aluminium. After spraying I coated it with a gloss clear cote before decalling, and will finish with a satin cote, which tones it down.
I used this method on my 1/48 F - 100F, and was very pleased with the end result. The other advantage with using Xtracolor is that you can paint other colours over it, if you need to, and it will not "Pull" up the silver finish, unlike some other brands, like Humbrol's metallic colours.🤙.
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Hi guys,
I know it's a bit of a long shot, but does anyone have a spare landing gear strut ( Part E 21 ) as I've just discovered mine has half of it missing ? Apparently trying to get spares from Trumpeter is nigh on impossible, so I wondered if anyone has built this model in a " Wheels up " configuration, so having the parts going spare.
I would have used the kit's metal parts, but the kit was second hand and the metal bits were missing, which wouldn't have been a problem, as I planned to use the plastic parts anyway.
Hoping someone can help out, otherwise I might have to have a go at scratch building.
Of course if you have the metal parts from the kit I can use them, and will be willing to pay for them.
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I've seen pics of USAF F-4's where there is a difference in the camo demarcation between the front section and the centre of the tank, which suggest different sections. Having said that, during my time on 17 squadron in the early 70's I don't recall any of our tanks having separate sections.
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Thanks for the info on the replacement nose, Ben. I've just filled the joint, so will sort that out when it's all dried, I'll also replace the pitot probe mounting, as the kit one is a work of fiction, and the probe itself would scale out at about the size of a drainpipe ! Fortunately I have the Master models replacement, plus the AMS ejection seat.
Regarding the wings I think once you have the drop tanks on and the leading edge slats drooped the thinness won't be too noticeable ( to me, anyway ! ) I don't understand all the accuracy issues, as their 1/24 Hurricane is just about perfect. Makes you wonder if they ever looked at a real Hun !
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2 hours ago, Ben Brown said:
I built the 1/32 D kit and tried to correct most of its problems. That's what led to my um, strong... opinions about all of Trumpeter's F-100s.
Steer clear of the replacement wheels from Renaissance. They were just copies of the too large kit parts. I'm not familiar with the ones Seawinder mentioned. The Renaissance ones were the only replacements available when I built mine, so I had to turn them down to the correct diameter.
The main and nose gear struts are the correct length; the too-thin wing has the effect of making the model sit too nose-level. The only way to fix the model's attitude, other than rebuilding the wings, is to cut the tops of the struts about 3 mm for the 1/32 kit. It does slightly effect the geometry of the doors and actuators, but on mine I just hid the entire mess behind the drop tanks. I don't recall if the kit needed nose weight. Didn't they provide a weight for the avionics bay? Regardless, shortening the main gear struts won't change the center of gravity enough to cause problems.
With enough alcohol, headache medicine, and elbow grease, it can be built into a decent looking model, as my friend Lee did here (I'm the disgusted friend he mentions): LINK
Ben
Thanks for that, Ben. I do have replacement wheels and a corrected nose from Zactomodels, which I've just fitted. I also have a new pitot probe from Master Models to replace the " telegraph pole " included in the kit ! It does mean a new scratch built mounting point in the correct location, but I can easily sort that.
By the way, has anyone noticed that the centreline pylon is too deep ? 😐
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9 hours ago, Seawinder said:
Don't forget the wheels. Apparently at least three companies make them: Armory Models, Master Details and AMS
Thanks, Seawinder . . . I do have the AMS set, so should be good to go
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Thanks for the info, guys. I think I'm going yo have to measure the kit legs and compare the with the scale drawings I have, and take it from there.
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Hi guys,
Just after a bit of advice regarding my Trumpeter 1/32 F - 100D Super Sabre wheels. I've read that the kit wheels are too big and that the main wheel legs are too long ? I have a set of aftermarket wheels of the correct diameter, and I read somewhere that the main wheel legs need shortening by 3 mm, and my question is : will shortening the legs affect the geometry of the wheel doors and struts ? any help at all would be much appreciated .
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You're right, Tokyo Raider . . . This kit is cetainly one of the best kits I've built, and it just falls together. I'm just about to start decalling mine, and if it turns out half as good as yours I shall be very pleased. thanks for sharing your photos.
Admiral Graf Spee. Academy 1/350
in Ready for Inspection - Maritime
Posted
That's an excellent job, farawy, especially the way you've managed to fit the guard rails . . .Very nice , and thanks for sharing.