markjames68
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Posts posted by markjames68
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Interesting comment re the voiceover, I thought i must have been the only person who thought the original version with the voicover was by far the best version!!
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Desp wanted a 1/200 wooden Bismarck deck for xmas as am off for 2 weeks and its my holiday project...
Also, any news on Italeri 1/35 X craft kit? Cant wait for that one, was there any sign of it at Telford?
Mark
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Hph do indeed do a 1/18 merlin, sixty quid , a beauty
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IMHO , the New Revel 72nd JU88 is one if the best kits around, pretty much i direct copy of their own 32nd kit and a masterpiece of tooling in that scale, as is the new72nd Airfix Swordfish
Mark
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Have a Trumpy bismarck kit and love it so much for first time ever i want to put one of the wooden decks on it, struggling on old tinterweb to fing one though, theres a company called artwox and another whos name escapes me but cant make out if there is one available yet.
can any of you chaps who know more than i please tell me if there is one available now or if not, where and when.?
Cheers
mark
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Picked one up today, Lancaster model and hobby world has them in, hes got 1 left in stock at moment if anyone interested, its superb,
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Glencoe did(do?) a Seabee in about 48th
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Apparently, talking to Mark at Transport in Preston, they were due in last friday but there was a small delay and he is expecting his delivery of 2 ( both preordered btw;)) on or about Oct 12th
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Just saw a post on largescale planes saying their model shops are expecting delivery on 10 Oct. !!
That being the case, will we get ours sooner as they are Revell of Germany and we are thousands of miles closer!
Or has anyone heard differently?
Mark
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Its definately not part of a p51 canopy frame im convinced, this is drivin me mad but gotta say im bl####y lovin it!!!
It would have to be for a new tool 48th or re tool24th though for a P51 but you would have thought they would have got info when measuring up for the 72nd so it makes me doubt my veracity!!
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No it's not.
See link to IPMS stockholm
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2005/12/images/walkaround_p51_b_022.jpg
Er thats the stbd elevator' i said port
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P-51B with a Malcolm hood - now there's a possibility...
Wez
Pretty sure its not the Malcolm hood either am convinced its the port elev off a P51though
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Prpretty damn sure its the port elevator off a p51 Mustang, the green peice in that case isnt the canopy frame however, it MIGHT be part of the engine bearer/ cowl but not sure
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Airfix are superb at customer service, i was scratchbuilding a 1/24 he111 many moons ago and one call to them and they sent me a pair of engines for it!!
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Hot on the heels of the superb Hachette 1/16 metal Stuka partwork that is only available in Germany, De Agostini has graced us Brits with a Spitfire.....
Check out Build a Spitfire on google,
Only problem is it looks absolutley bloody awful , not convonced by the shape, or the quality of the skin detail or for that matter the smaller details or stramge woodedn substrate.
if you want to see this kind of thing done properly , check out the hachette Stuka
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This is gonna open a can of worms i think....
My 2 pen'orth..
Pre shading is practically pointless, it relies on not having a dense topcoat for it to show through, IMHO post shading( if u want to get a sun bleached look and washes in certain areas is the way to go.
Pre shading with a watercolour sludge wash IMHO makes everyones models look the same and like they have come out of one of the magazines( which i think kind started this craze and is just someones interpretation of what THEY think looks good but everyone tries to emulate it as they saw it in a magazine or online
the style of model that comes out of TMMI or similar do have a certain charm,but every aircraft looks the same which is just not the case in my opinion.
If you are trying to build models to competition standard i would rely on you own skills and experimentation to get there, rmembering that there is no shortcut to being able to do it, its just practice practice practice until you find a style and finish that YOU like.
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IMHO no it wouldn't. It might be fine on a 1/4 scale R/C biplane, but this is a 1/72 scale model, there should be no trace whatsoever of a fabric finish to the surface at this scale, it should be smooth and glossy to represent the doped surface.
Solarfilm website has details of both solarfilm & solartex. Solarfilm is the easier one to apply if you've not done it before, and it also comes in silver.
Do agree with your construction comments though Mark. When putting the covering on, one flat at a time, do opposite sides alternately to avoid stressing & distorting the framework as it shrinks.
At the end of the day Will, it's your model, your choice
The thing with silver solartex is that the pigment is so thick you cant really make out the texture of the fabric, it has a lovelynsmooth feel and great silver colour
Mark
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Just seen a fantastic build by Spiton in the ready for inspection section of this absolutely terriffic looking aircraft, they are great phots too and its really inspired me to scratch one in 32nd or 24 th, accurate 3 views seem a bit sparse on tinterweb , does anyone have a scan of a good set or knowledge of where i could get some?
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So here we go- a tentative schematic of how I imagine this thing could be held together.
No dimensions or proper drawings yet. Obviously there is going to have to be many more frames in the nose section to get that curved nose end.
The area I am most concerned about is the 'secondary' keels I have added. I figured having three secondary keels would i) help rigidity (because whatever I make them from would be under tension) and ii) make alignment of the frames easier. I don't know whether carbon rod would bend as much as I need it too without shattering- might have to consider another material.
Comments suggestions welcome.
The cross section and side view here should be adequate in terms of a substrate on which you can carefully iron solarTEX,
The solartex. Would offer an excellent representation of the fabric, and can be bought in a very suitable silver colour, dont be tempted to shortcut the structure though as tex will distort it if shrunk unevenly, id also reccomend carefull application of balsaloc on the frame edges before texing andthe on the tex overlap in this scale to get the joins sealed down well.
If you are interested, send me a pm with your address and ill send you a square foot to mess with( will be red but can be bought in silver)
Just thinking , would also use spruce ace stringers to avoid starved horse look and have tge stringers sat on the frames, not noched into them, this way the frames wont show, just the stringers
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Totally agree with your number one choice,
Interestingly IMHO it is the best kit ever released, simply because for me there is a perfect amount of extra work involved to make everyone thats built ever so slightly different but keep the build interesting and fun ( i think the Tamiya Spit in 32nd is superb and arguably a better kit but not , for me, a better build as it is so well engineered it takes some of the fun out of modelmaking and becomes an assembly /paint excercise.)
Agree with your number two choice also.
The only resason my number three differs is i would place the airfix Spit there, simply because i think, built SOOTB it has a fantastic look and feel to it in terms of shape and surface patina that i still love and feel looks perfect even with all the better kits that have arrived subsequently, its still IMHO the best Spit on the market.
Mark
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In plastic, a 1/35 Meditereanean dockyard featuring a lot of the Italeri boats, dock kits and mini art buildings etc etc, , in procejss of collecting all i need in the stash.
in Rc , a 1/4 f16 or BAE Hawk or 1/5 superhornet
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Hi guys
Like it says in the title, whats the best thing to thin humbrolacrylic with for spraying.
Mark
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One of the best things ever commited to film.
Nick did a truly amazing job on that Spit, it was a very sad day indeed when he died. His Legacy lives on though
Mark
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Hi there,
kinda depends on what your sons goal is re RC flying and how he plans on going about it( joining a club, goin to park with you etc..) I have been a bmfa instructor for many years and i see lots of aircraft like the one reccomended above arrive at the club field with prospective new pilots
iMHO , its too small and very good weather dependant to learn to fly on, you want something with 50 to 60 inch span an .40 size engine or elec equivelant its your choice wether electric or glo( tho i would personally say glo as they are easier to fly many times in a day cheaply)
A good rc model shop in your area will recommend you a great ready to fly trainer with all the gear necessary, iif you get a good deal you should be flying for around 250 quid with a plane that will last ages and fly in a stiffish breaze which is a bonus in this country.
Mark
1/16 male tanks?
in AFV WWII
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a few years ago at Telford i sawa company that had an etched brass 1/16 male tank( or similar) does anyone remember it or know who prouced it/ if it was or is available?
Mark