KLP Publishing

I’m pleased to announce that we’ve just added a brand-new 28-page Walkaround section to Building the Airfix Buccaneer S.2C in 1/48 Scale, and thus released a Version 2.0 update! These photos, taken by Tony Patrickson of Anbarún Models, feature Buccaneer S.2 XV361 at the Ulster Aviation Society museum in Northern Ireland. To celebrate this momentous occasion, for the next 7 days, we’ve also reduced the price to a mere 12 Australian dollars! The discounted price ends at midnight, Monday 26 February 2024, AEDT. In this 116-page eBook, renowned UK modeller Geoff Coughlin takes you through the building and painting of this new kit. Along with Geoff’s terrific build, we’ve also included some colour profiles by Simon Hill, an overview of the kit itself, and a set of ordnance-related bonus photos—and a brand-new Walkaround section. This a free update for all existing purchasers, and of course new purchasers will always receive the latest version of any of our books. In order to obtain your free update, simply re-download the book using either the original download link in your Order Confirmation email, or log in to your KLP account and download it from the Downloads section of your profile. If you don’t have either, please contact me and we’ll sort it out. Kev

OK, so the tail decals don't fit the Welsh kit at all - probably even less so than here. I broke out my V1 Decals for the later livery - also allegedly designed for the Minicraft kit - and had much better luck: A little short at the bottom, but I can live with that, so I'll be switching to this livery. That leaves me with set of "Somewhere in Time" decals that I can't currently use, which is frustrating. I'm thinking I might take my hi-res scan of those decals, adjust it to fit the Welsh tail, and reprint them (just the tails) on decal paper. Worth a try, anyway. Kev

A bit of a longer update, this one - the end of which leaves the viability of the project hanging in the balance! My next move after the last update was to fix the awful leading edges of the tailplanes at their roots: They're bulbous, blocky, and don't blend into the fuselage at all. Here's my best attempt to fix them, and comparison of the two: Still not perfect, but a bit of filler should take care of the rest. I then moved to tackling the fuselage seams. I started by filling the cut-outs I made with stretched sprue, before laying down a bead of black rubberised CA along all the joins: I also did two of the three cabin doors on each side, as they're situated too low: Here's a close-up of the kit's abysmal wing root fairing: And the real thing: Ugh. Now comes the coup de gras. Since the point of tackling this awful kit was so I could put some cool Iron Maiden stickers on it, I thought I'd better check that they fit. They're home-produced decals, and I was assured by the vendor that they were designed for this Minicraft kit. But hey, if only life were that simple: And if you're thinking, well at least it seems OK at the front, think again: Doesn't look like a "designed to fit" scenario to me. Now, I know that the Minicraft tail is inaccurate in shape, and perhaps the tail decals are scale accurate in that regard. But that just means that I was initially misled when purchasing these decals, and also can't use them on this build. Thank heavens I stopped to check! So, where to now? As I see it, these are my options: Revert to the kit livery and finish the model; Bin the whole thing as a bad idea; Modify the tail decals to fit the kit tail, potentially distorting the iconic design; Modify the kit tail to match the decals, potentially creating worse accuracy issues. I don't have the Zvezda kit, but I do have the Welsh Models 757, so I'm going to drag it out and check the decals against it. If they fit better, than I'll probably pass them onto that build and do something else here. That would be the neatest solution, even if I'm not particularly interested in the Northwest livery that comes with the kit. And anyone who knows me will realise that #2 is just not an option. I'm not keen on #3, and #4 seems like a lot of work for a kit that really isn't worth it. So it's probably going to be Option #1, and I'll just have to see if I can use the Iron Maiden decals elsewhere. There is one more option that I just thought of: I also have decals from another manufacturer for the later "Final Frontier" tour livery, so perhaps I should see if they fit better. I'll be back later with the results of those fit tests. Stay tuned! Kev

Thanks, Paul! Things aren't going so swimmingly with the Minicraft 757 unfortunately - but this was not unexpected. Kev

A little more progress. I've got the wings fixed in place, and sadly there's still a small lean to starboard, as evidenced by the vertical fin: This is making the port wing tip sit too high. Not sure if this is better (or even different) than I would have achieved without the mods, but it's done now. I might be able to modify the landing gear to compensate, but I won't lose any sleep over it. Once I get the tailplanes on, I'll set about turning this thing into a putty monster! Kev

Get to it, Ray! And many thanks once again for those engines. Unless you've already done it, I believe I have to modify the pylons to allow them to sit parallel to the ground, rather than point upwards. But first, let's see how I go with the wings... Kev

Upon returning to the build, I knew my first challenge would be sorting out the infamously asymmetrical wing attachments on this kit. I pondered this for quite a while, checking out every build I could to see how other modellers dealt with it (or not). And then I had an epiphany! But first, here's a quick demonstration of the differences in each wing root. First, a couple of photos showing how ropey the cut-outs are: Next, measuring from the marked panel line to the top of the front part of the cut-out. Port side: And starboard side: So there's nearly a full millimetre's difference in height, assuming that the panel line is in the same place on each side. During my various test fitting experiments, I noticed that if you slide and clamp the wing prongs together outside of the fuselage, they actually lock together rather nicely, and provide what looks like correct and symmetrical dihedral. It's only when you try to do this inside the fuselage that it all gets messed up, exacerbated by the different positions of the wing roots. Rather than fiddle with the cut-outs on each side trying to even them up somehow, I figured if I could just take this version of the wing assembly and slide it up into place, I could adjust the position on each side to ensure they were even, with the dihedral and asymmetry issues already taken care of. So I decided to remove that section of the fuselage that prevents this from being possible: The wings are now glued up, taking care to ensure that the correct width exists between them front and back to allow them to slip into place without any undue gaps. Somewhere, someone mentioned in passing that the tailplanes were also asymmetrical, but mine seemed to be OK as far as position was concerned. However, they were each doing their own thing when it came to their own dihedral: After removing some material from the connecting tab on the port stabiliser, I was able to get it close to even: Not perfect, but certainly good enough. The tailplanes themselves were also plagued by some sink marks and a generally uneven surface, so I marked the worst of it with a permanent marker, ready for sanding: And this is more or less where we are today. I'm not out of the woods yet with the wings, but at least I have a plan. Let's see how it goes! Kev

I started this one a couple of years ago as part of a larger series of airliner builds, but stalled out pretty quickly. After recently finishing the Minicraft DC-4 that was part of that series, I decided to drag this one back onto the workbench and kick it down the road. I think I've read just about every review and build thread of this kit on the Internet in the last few days! Here's what I started with: As the title suggests, I'm planning to turn this into Ed Force One, using laser printed decals from Babibi Model (the protective paper is still on the sheet here): I also have some "3D" window decals from Authentic Airliners Decals, which should help spice things up a bit: I'm just hoping they overlay the Babibi ones nicely. I also received a set of what I'm hoping are the correct engines from my friend Ray Seppala, who I believe is known in these parts: This is how I received them, so obviously he'd done a bit of work to them. I assume they're Minicraft parts from a different kit, but I'm really not sure. They do look like they're resin, however. 🤔 So, let's begin the build! Many airliner models are moulded in white plastic for some reason, and Minicraft is especially fond of doing this. This plastic has an issue with translucency, so whenever I come across this situation, the first thing I do is paint the insides of the fuselage halves in flat black: This provides some pretty effective light blocking, and the main benefit of that is that you require less paint on the outside of the model to achieve the same result. Here's a demonstration of the problem, and the effectiveness of the solution: Note that I seldom bother giving the wings this kind of treatment. I tend to prefer decals for windows in this scale, as they provide a better scale effect, and I don't have to worry about alignment issues with other elements of the livery. It also makes the build go quicker, so the only thing I needed to do before closing up the fuselage halves is add some weight to the nose. My method might surprise you! See below: After having multiple problems with using lead weights in combination with CA glue to attach them (everything from the weights breaking loose to nasty thermo-chemical reactions melting the plastic and discolouring the paint work), I found myself experimenting with Blu-tack, of all things. It turned out to be remarkably effective, with more reliability than CA and none of its problems. Take a healthy section of Blu-Tack and press it into the inside of the forward fuselage, and then press into that some lead weights of the appropriate size and shape - I'm using fishing sinkers in this example: You'll note the length of Blu-Tack trailing out to the rear; this is to wrap around the exposed portions of the weights, and performs 2 functions: firstly, it secures them more firmly and prevents any movement; and secondly, it encases the lead so that it can't negatively interact with any of the surrounding material: Now all you have to do is repeat the process with the other fuselage half, and you're good to go: If done properly, this absolutely won't move, and won't cause any thermo-chemical issues, either immediately or down the track. The breakdown of this kit allows me to leave the cockpit/windscreen section off until I'm happy that there's enough weight in there. It's also very easy to add more if I decide I need to. And this is how I left things 2 years ago: More soon! Kev

I’m pleased to announce that Building the British Phantoms Volume Three: The F-4J(UK) in RAF Service has just been updated to v1.2. And to celebrate, for the next 7 days, we’ve reduced the price to just 18 Australian dollars! It turns out that 2 images somehow didn’t survive the final packaging process for the book, and were in fact missing! This has now been rectified. This update is therefore considered an important one that restores missing content, and should not be skipped. This a free update for all existing purchasers, and of course new purchasers will always receive the latest version of any of our books. In order to obtain your free update, simply re-download the book using either the original download link in your Order Confirmation email, or log in to your KLP account and download it from the Downloads section of your profile. If you don’t have either, please contact me and we’ll sort it out. Kev

I’m pleased to announce that our recent Build Guide, Building the Trumpeter P-47D Razorback in 1/32 Scale, has now been updated to v1.2! Thanks to Fred Bachofner, we’ve been able to add many new titles to the References appendix at the end of the book. In this 322-page eBook, John Kim tackles the Trumpeter 1/32 P-47D “Razorback” kit, combining it with a small selection of aftermarket items to turn it into a masterpiece. Expertly built and masterfully weathered, John’s build is full of tips and tricks to get the best out of this model. The result is a stunning model that is both instructive and inspirational. This a free update for all existing purchasers, and of course new purchasers will always receive the latest version of any of our books. In order to obtain your free update, simply re-download the book using either the original download link in your Order Confirmation email, or log in to your KLP account and download it from the Downloads section of your profile. If you don’t have either, please contact me and we’ll sort it out. Kev

Thanks, Ian. SMS paints are my go-to whenever they have the colour I need. They're airbrush-ready acrylic lacquers and made locally here in Australia. I usually thin them a bit more though, as they're not as thin as MRP, for example. I believe they're distributed in the UK by Albion Alloys. As for the Minicraft 757, well, I have Iron Maiden decals sized to fit it, so I'm a bit locked in in that respect. Plus, I'll happily attempt any kit once! My other 757 is a Welsh vacform... Kev

Thanks again for all you kind words, fellas. I'm now moving on to resuming battle with the Minicraft 757, so wish me luck! Kev

Thanks again for all the comments, fellas. I'm now moving on to resume battle with the Minicaft 757, so wish me luck! Kev

I'd probably like to recreate this Olympic scheme in the larger scale, so perhaps masks might be the way to go. I can print my own decals for smaller things - as long as they're not white! Kev

I was really referring to the level of detail and finesse - the slightly clunky fit of the cowlings, the completely empty nacelles and wheel bays, the half-hearted surface detail. Overall fit is fine, and it seems accurate enough to my non-expert eye. It's certainly better in almost every way than their Electra kit, which I finished last year. Or their 757, which I'm still struggling with now! So my comment probably was a bit harsh in retrospect - I just wish someone would release some Tamiya-level airliners! Kev

I believe OneManModel in Japan produces a 3D-printed one, which I might consider. No idea what I'd do for decals, however - especially since I broke my own golden rule by not taking a scan of these ones before I started using them! Kev

That's a nice selection! And it looks like you had no trouble with the YS-11, either. As well as the fit issues, the blue-printed decals (overprinted on a white backing) were stiff, brittle, and fragile, and would chip and flake with the least provocation. This was a particular problem with the tail decals, which took quite a bit of nail-biting work to repair: I just put it down to their age. Most of the rest of the decals behaved well enough. I would have preferred for the logo and aircraft name to be separately printed, and then I could have painted the rest. It's all water under the bridge, now! Kev

I’m pleased to announce that we’ve just begun working on the next title in our Modellers Monograph Series, entitled Chevron and Cross: Camouflage Paints and Camouflage Schemes of the Royal Hungarian Air Force. The book is authored by Károly Magó, and while there will be no model builds in this volume, it will be packed with historical data and photos, examination of pertinent colours, and a selection of colour profiles. It’s sure to be a boon to any modeller wishing to build Royal Hungarian Air Force subjects. There’s no ETA on this title yet, but stay tuned for more news and updates as it comes to hand. Kev

Indeed I did. I bought the kit second-hand, and they were in the box when it arrived. Much more attractive scheme than the kit option, but they sure gave me hell! Kev

Thanks! Honestly it's probably the least-flawed airliner build I've ever executed, but it's not perfect. The kit itself is horribly mediocre, but at least everything fits OK. Kev

The bulk of it is SMS Super Silver, but the panels just behind the engine cowlings are SMS Stainless Steel. Thanks for the kind words! Kev

Thanks! The instructions actually tell you to install the nose gear in backwards, so this might account for why some do that. Kev

Just wrapped up this Minicraft 1/144 DC-4 in Qantas livery (Hawkeye Models Australia), and finished with SMS paints. Despite a few flaws, I'm quite pleased with this one. The "football" antenna is 3D printed, as the kit doesn't supply any at all. Thanks for looking in! Kev

Just finished this one up after having a bit of a wrestle with the 25+ year-old aftermarket decals. Not perfect by any means, but it looks OK from a couple of feet away. Kev

I’m pleased to announce that our latest eBook title, Building the Airfix Sea King HU.5 in 1/48 Scale, is now available! In this 187-page eBook, renowned UK author and modeller Geoff Coughlin takes you through the building, painting, and weathering of the Airfix 1/48 Sea King kit. Geoff shows you how to achieve an impressive result right out of the box, only adding some scratch-built seat belts and FOD covers as icing on the cake. We’ve also included 80 walkaround images of the real helicopter in the final section of the book, which should prove useful for the super-detailers among you! https://www.klp.com.au/product/building-the-airfix-sea-king-hu-5-in-1-48-scale/ Note: all our prices are in Australian dollars. Kev