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Academy 1/72 G-6


  

23 members have voted

  1. 1. Which colour/marking scheme for my G-6?

    • Red 6, Fw Doring (black camouflage overspray)
      7
    • Red 8, Oblt Gabler (natural metal finish, paint removed)
      16


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I am going to build this as well.

Contents.jpg

In one of the top two schemes... a rough black overspray finish for Wilde Sau operations, or Kurt Gabler's aircraft with paint removed to gain speed. It's over to you guys to make the choice...

Decals.jpg

Edited by Peter Lloyd
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Despite the lack of interest in my poll I continue.

I am going to cut the control surfaces for something a bit exciting, scoring from the inside then bending the ailerons and flaps. The radiator flaps will have to come off, be thinned and repositioned.

Winginnersshowwingcuts2-1.jpg

Winginnersshowingcuts.jpg

Cockpit:

Cockpit2-1.jpg

Edited by Peter Lloyd
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Sorry guys, I'm not sure why the early pictures disappeared but I will try to restore them... like most big internet thingies, photobucket is not what it used to be!

This model will be Red 8 (my first NMF model in years) but fear not Duncan, a Hasegawa G-6 has emerged from the stash so if there's time I will have a crack at Red 6... it looks like a challenging and potentially enjoyable job Iwata. Meanwhile, here is the state of the G.

Overallassembled1.jpg

Unpainted3-4topview.jpg

Edited by Peter Lloyd
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Andy, I agree. I now have the Hasegawa kit and the Academy is obviously 'heavily based' on it. Thanks for the link Falke. Interesting. I asked my girlfriend which of the two I should attempt, she said 'the one with the rudder squiggles', possibly because she is just such a natural at setting me difficult tasks! In 1/72 I suspect I will resort to brushes.

I need to find an Erla canopy to do Gabler's, I must have one somewhere or else I might have to get the Revell G-14.

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Pre shading and painting. Traditionally my pre-shading disappears under lots of thick paint, but this scheme is rather 'scrappy' so I think it will be worth it.

Fusepreshaded_zps4cbc831d.jpg

Undersidepreshaded_zps238f0c00.jpg

Topviewpreshaded_zpsfa992033.jpg

So that's the basic 'underpaint' the aircraft would have had before its night 'scheme' was applied, I thought I'd approach my model the same way. Now on to the top layers:

Undersideblack_zps84fc6abc.jpg

The wing crosses are, according to the decal guide, completely overpainted, but I wanted the fuselage crosses and swastika to show through the paint layers. I made a rough stencil for the wing markings, but decided to freehand overspray the decals on the fuselage. The aircraft number, unit badge, victory markings and fuel octane triangles were the only markings re-applied after the dark finish.

top3-4startingblack_zpsf7c0eb6d.jpg

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Thanks gentlemen, your comments and support are appreciated. The splat I sanded gently and re-sprayed, easy to do with these sorts of schemes. I am regretting not fitting the exhaust shields earlier. The upper scheme is as per the decal guide (more or less) but I think it likely the guide is based on guesswork (which is of course okay, I'd rather use their guesses then mine). The spinner red-black split was masked with a very thin piece of Tamiya tape, about 1mm wide, then larger patches of tape applied. The landing gear mounts on the Academy kits seem to be a bit too far apart, I think this warning was posted up under another 109 here, and indeed it looks to be the case. Not by much, but it's an important point and quite easy to fix, at least to make the model 'sit' better. The gait is such a characteristic of Willy's masterpiece it's worth trying to get right.

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