Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Just seen this in the Gallery and looked back through the build thread - amazing detail work and final result, Adrian. I now like WW2 era Trainers! All the best. Mike
  3. Really nice save on those windows Bill, your perseverance has most certainly paid off Roger
  4. From my reading of 'Air Arsenal North America', the issue was around availability and the understandable desire of the home military to have suitably equipped aircraft. This makes some sort of sense given that the US aviation industry was gearing up production from a fairly low base. If you think in 1938 the order for Hudsons the RAF was greater in number than the total procurement by the US military. By the time the USA looked like entering the war, American aircraft factories were already producing substantial numbers of aircraft for non US users.
  5. I went and bought some brown and beige paper and started experimenting. I made a nice new prop for the floh and I'm working on one for the brandenberg D1 that I'm planning. For me three layers of 120gsm works in 1/144 I's say single layers of 80gsm or 60gsm might do the job. Flickr is down but I'll post some photos once it's back up. From looking at photos of RFC and RAF planes from the era they are laminated too but they temd to be varnished or stained in a single colour, so the technique might still be good for British planes as well. so far I'd say the glued paper is much easier to carve and sand so this will probably become my default propeller making method .
  6. Super work, Heather, a fantastic final result to match your reference pic. I like the detail of the framework that stops the trainee gunner from shooting the Oxford's tail off! The ground crew must have had to check that for correct position before every flight. Congrats. All the best. Mike.
  7. Hi Marklo, thanks for the tip! That has some real potential for 1/144, especially when doing some of the German props. I'll definitely be keeping that in mind, as I'm contemplating what would make a good adversary to the Fee.
  8. Thank's Silenoz,everything fit's beautifully I glued the upper wing's and one piece lower wing together before fitting and it clicked into place without a hitch not a jot of filler was needed to get to the primer stage.
  9. I think most of us have particular types that we buy a lot of kits of, and that's clearly a market any manufacturer needs to be aware of because it's the big sales . The largest offenders for me in terms of different versions and scales in the stash are Spitfires, Hurricanes, Meteors, Mustangs, 109s, 190s, Thunderbolts, Corsairs, and for some reason I have five Fw.200 kits. And Wildcats, lots of those. Also Gladiators and Hart variants. (Yes, I have an irrational situation here)
  10. Great review- the Kit Kat cracked me up! Did the reviewer put it in there!
  11. It is definitely the Hasegawa kit. Scalemates is often incorrect... like Wikipedia, it's only as good as the input. What fit problems have you had?
  12. Here is the first picture of the finished aircraft: More to follow... Cheers, Markus
  13. @Stalker6Recon AG stands for Air Gunner Roger
  14. Just popped them an email to see if they can sort me out with a 'custom' order. I don't particualrly fancy buying two sets to just get the two bombs...
  15. Morning André, what I will start by saying is this is second hand information. It came to me from the Gent who used to paint the test shots for the Phoenix Phollies range, back in the '80's. Have a look here:- http://www.art-girona.com then type into the search bar (top right) 'Phoenix'.........NB **** NOT WORK FRIENDLY!! **** it will give you an idea, also worth looking at the Pegaso range. His 'trick' was to mask out the figure when painting the 'Nylons' and then use layers of highly thinned paint. He used brushes, but you could use an airbrush, if you intend to use a stencil type arrangment for a design on the stockings. The lace you can treat the same as any Napoleonic uniform lace and tassle arrangement. One thing to remember is that female skin is more 'pink' than the male, so high and low lights aren't needed as much, and need to be more subtle. HTH Paul
  16. Strange how Scalemates makes no reference to it being previously a Hasegawa kit but the sprue shots are identical suggesting it is. Finding it quite a slog atm. Some of it I can put down to me being inexperienced but other bits are just plain wrong or poor.
  17. My view for what it's worth - you can never have too many Spitfires. Seem to have built little else (ok three Hurricanes) since I came back to the hobby last summer and there are still some in the queue. John
  18. Hi, just stumbled across this project. Had to say what an inspiration it is to see modelling of this quality. Great work and keep up the progress. Thanks. Stuart
  19. Superb job on that Oliver, your finish is "just right" to my eye, very realistic or at least as I would imagine it, your last photo could just about be a period snap. Steve.
  20. The only good Horsa scale drawings I know of are available for purchase from here: https://www.tandymedia.com/product/airspeed-as-51-horsa-aircraft-plan/
  21. Masking the upper surfaces for the splinter camouflage on the He.115 - unfortunately, the colour scheme in the Revell Instructions does not show the usual straight lines in the 'standard pattern' - looks more wavy. So, the Matchbox version had to come out of storage to assist. It will help with the final comparison if the colour schemes are identical. Good old Matchbox! It's still a bit confusing though when trying to lay out with thin masking tape Masking lines sealed using the RLM72 / H244. Now I'm really confused - need to keep my wits about me to get the RLM73 / H243 in the right places First coat of H243 on - it looked far too shiny and I wonder if I have mixed enough. That's what happened on the Matchbox He115. More mixing for the second coat and masking removed, except for the nose transparencies, which will need a coat of Matt over the shiny H243. Quite a few touch ups and tidy ups required so I will wait until fully dry. Getting there, though. Also, the penny has dropped about what I thought was a corner missing from the rear of the main canopy - I can see now that the rear m/g gets stored to the starboard side when the rear hinged canopy is closed. Must have a search among the reference pictures again because the Matchbox version has the rear m/g poking through a hole in the rear of the main canopy.
  22. Today
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...