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Moa replied to Moa's topic in Work in Progress - AircraftAnd speaking of bathrooms, what use are they for without this humble item:
You should sell that to modelers who do vacuum forming as well. Probably a lot cheaper than the kits I saw online after reading this post. There are good products for forming, but they get progressively more expensive, and then the plastic requires future expenses that probably never ends, unless we can get our hand on one of those rolls! Man, you guys are the best! I saw how to build your own firm kit, as a carpenter, I certainly have all the tools for that job as well, I can see some forming in my future, starting with the candle/stretch method. For delicate parts, I understand why the mlliput is used to support the mold, pulling down on a canopy at that angle, could crush is easily, I will start with something a little bit less important, probably something my wife has........ One question regarding this medium, can you achieve fine details with it? As always, thanks guys, you're the best! Anthony
Okay, 5 hours later and here's what I've got. Getting a colour-blind person to mix one of the most fought over colours in the history of modelling is perhaps not a recipe for success, but I hope I have arrived at a more serviceable tone than the last one. If I've flubbed it up, please let me know so I can try to fix it on the weekend! First up was a new mix of XF-62 and red-brown with some clear gloss and Gunze white added. This was split into two batches and one was lightened even further and spayed on as the rib colour. Then the ribs were all masked off. Once that was done the slightly darker (but still lighter than last time) mix was applied in several very thin coats. After unmasking I had the result shown below. The lighter rib colour is faint but visible. Plus the overall colour seems less saturated and light enough for weathering and shading to be visible. I just hope it isn't too brown. Or too green. Or something...
You'll never get any better at masking frames if you don't keep working at it! One possible way is to use something like strips of Tamiya tape, mask all the canopy, leaving just the frames exposed in one direction, say fore-and-aft. After painting and drying, remove the tape and re-tape, exposing all the frame lines that go side-to-side only, then paint them. If you have trouble with tape lifting paint on the frames that have been painted, another method is to use Parafilm "M" . Put two layers over the whole canopy and surrounding area, then cut the masks off the frames using a sharp #11 Xacto blade, leaving the rest of the film to protect the glass areas as well as the nearby fuselage. Also, you could paint some decal film with the correct color, cut into appropriate sized strips, and the use the decal to cover only the frames, after the rest of the model has been painted. These are just some of the ways I do it; just depends on the particular model. Good luck, Ed
Hi Brian l am very sorry to hear of your loss, too. I work with people who suffer from Ahlzeimers and other forms of dementia; my father suffered from the former as well. It’s heartbreaking to see someone you love just fade away. Anyway back to photos... l am using flickr via my iPhone. I’m sure it’s dead simple, but my dyslexic mind can’t cope with it!!
Biggles87 replied to Fatcawthorne's topic in 50s NATO v Warsaw Pact in Europe GBHi Chris, no instructions with my Red Roo wings either, a mention of the deeper wheel well would have been nice. Thanks for discovering that for me, at least I shouldn't fall into the same trap now. John
Roger Newsome replied to Christer A's topic in Work in Progress - AircraftLooking good Christer. I might have to adopt your approach using Tamiya Extra Thin on the canopy seeing as I didn't pack any white glue.
trickyrich started following 1/48 EA-18G Growler VAQ-132 'Scorpions'. Update 24/4
trickyrich replied to DaveJL's topic in The Specialists GBshe's coming along very nicely. re RAAF Growler, arr we Aussies do do things a bit different to everyone else!
Dads203 replied to helios16v's topic in The Specialists GBNoticed that and it’s missing the track link holders from around the canopy
Makes sense to me Mike. I was at Chino a few years ago and got some shots of the N9M and posted them in the real aviation section. It might take a bit to find it again but it might be worth taking a look for it. Some of the panels were off of the aircraft at the time I was there. Later, Dave
it doesn't look to bad at all. Pressure is a really big thing with airbrushes, you need to go quite low, you can thin the paint way more if you want (maybe should), just means you'll need to do more coats, but its a great way to give some depth to the finish and achieve different effects. If you do find that it goes on too dry and you get a "rough" finish, just let it dry completely (leave for a day of so). Then with a soft cotton cloth gentlely rub back the paint surface, it's almost like doing a fine polish, you'll knock back the finish and it'll become quite smooth again. You can then either re-paint or clear coat from there. You can do the same with the final flat clear coat, it helps give a worn patchy finish to the paint. The pre-paint work was great, I did something similar with my F-14, the trick after that is to use really thin coats and gradually build up the lays to give you effect you're after. Think I had 14+ layers of colour on the F-14. To be honest I probably should have thinned the paint even further, I was using super thin acrylic lacquer straight from the bottle (it's incredibly thin to start with), but with Tamiya acrylic you're safe to go to 75-80% thinner @ low pressure, the trick is to not "wet" the surface. I'll be doing something along those lines with the Skyknight, being resin getting the base surface is super hard, so it's really not suitable for lacquer acrylics. I'll be using Tamiya NATO black for the paint. The simple way for chipping (a bit late for you) is to spray the model first with a metallic lacquer (Model Master Metalizer or Alclad), and polish slightly, paint the main colours then when dry carefully using some stick tape, lift off small chips of paint, you can use a wooden tooth pick or cocktail stick along the panel lines. Mistakes can be remarked with post-it notes and re-sprayed, gives a nice mottled/repaired finish.
Darn. A few options present themselves. First, add a tail support from clear sprue at the rear, it's quick, easy and not too distracting. A variation of the above is a strategically placed trestle/ladder/barrel/crewman. Second, put the bird on a base and tie the nose wheel down, which is a good option if you don't mind bases in your cabinet. You can use wire through a hole or a screw into the nose wheel, as skills and inclination dictate. Third, drill holes in any place that you can find (under the cockpit, behind the cockpit, in the engine cowlings) and add as much fishing weight lead as you need, fixed in place with a dribble of superglue through the holes. You may actually manage to hold the weights in place with screws or pins through the fuselage bottom, but that takes a bit of lining up and luck! Once it balances, make good the panel and paint damage. That's the most difficult option. Don't give up Dennis!
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